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Steel, Stick, Kit Garage Where to begin?

brokenjack

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Richmond, VA, USA
Ok, I'm a supernoob. That's out of the way. I want to build a 24x24 detached garage in my back yard. I got a Triumph Spitfire project that desperately needs a home. The choices are now overwhelming. I've got 20k to build and outfit it per my wife. I'd like to use the space for my car project, and woodworking but I would also like a "clean room" to hang out in/put guests in/use a computer etc. etc. I can do a fair amount on my own i.e. wiring, insulating. What should I expect to pay for a concrete slab, and construction? Has anyone built a versatube steel building? What companies sell good quality kits? How can I find out if I can actually build the garage in my back yard? I've done some searching on these forums, but can't seem to find a good thread on shopping and building a garage.
Thanks
Hal
 
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krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
First find out what restrictions the authoritys put on outbuildings...size, construction, style etc. A stop at the local building inspector would be a good start.

Then decide what style of construction you'll use...post and beam, steel frame, stud wall....talk to local builders and tell them what you want...they will help you decide what works best in your area.

Then start to design the building...# of doors, placement of doors and windows, etc.

You may be able to get a contractor to build the frame and roof and you may want to build the rest for some "sweat equity"...that may give you extra $$$ for tools and equipment....

Good luck
 

slowride66

Active member
Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
41
Location
Central Florida U.S.A.
well 1st you need to see what the restriction are for your area every place is different

thing will work 2 different ways one if you have a contractor

or if you as the home owner builds it

I personally like steel building like these here

free span steel buildings by US Steel

I 'm going to get the "S" type it has vertical walls, free span and excellent wind resistance and can be put up with minimum amount of effort oh and also once you pick your width that stay constant but you can add on & add on &add on any way

also you can check with the company and they have clearence one that people backed out of at the last minuet for 1/2 the price

damn I should get a commishion ...if I only had a job!!!

I'm a newbie here to this is my real 1st post so

:willy_nil welcome to garage junkies :pimpflash

SR66 :thumbup:

:needpics:
 

ruby76

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
117
Location
Fairview Hts, Illinois - outside Saint Louis Misso
There is local garage building outfit near me that would get about $10k for a 24x24, 2x4 construction, and concrete pad included. You would be responsible for finishing etc. I'd check with local shops around there. It cost me only 1500 more to have this outfit build my 16x22 than if I would have built it myself.
 

RonBou

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2005
Messages
224
Location
Farmington, CT
I want to build a 24x24 detached garage in my back yard. I got a Triumph Spitfire project that desperately needs a home. The choices are now overwhelming. I've got 20k to build and outfit it per my wife. I'd like to use the space for my car project, and woodworking but I would also like a "clean room" to hang out in/put guests in/use a computer etc. etc.

I think you need to put some pegs in the ground and see how small it will be when you start adding a clean room. Also remember that 24x24 is usually the outside dimensions, not the inside. I built a 24x24 3 years ago and constantly wish I had figured a way to make it a little bigger. Don't get me wrong...a heated 24x24 garage to tinker in makes me happy but I couldn't imagine partitioning off a section for a clean room. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 

plepper

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Messages
15
Location
Eastern Washington St.
OK I can give some input here. I've just finished my 24x24 shop for working on my Samurai and wood/ metalshop. Building 24x24x10 too joist, with 1 roll up door and 1 man door no window although i do have a opaque strip at the top for light. $7900.00 erected 3 yrs. ago. 4" slab with gravel base 4 months ago $2100.00. Power 2 months ago 100 amp sub panel with 1 220 outlet several 110 dedicated curcits and plenty of lights and outlets about $600.00. Still need heat (woodstove) There's room for the Samurai a32'X7' work bench 220 welder a 110 mig with cart 2 small rollaway tool boxes a drill press, tablesaw, band saw, cutoff saw, scroll saw, Radial arm saw, mitersaw on cart, pancake compressor , ect. ect. I have shelving all around the walls about 6' high and a 4' wide shelving unit. It must sound very crowded but it's not to bad no stepping over stuff while working on projects. The secret is CLEAN UP at the end of every DAY!
 
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number3

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2005
Messages
46
Location
King of Prussia, PA
GOOG said:
I bought a Stratospan kit years ago and am very happy with it. Take a look at their web site. When I built my garage in '99, frame construction was double what I paid.



http://www.strat-o-span.com/

Tom


Can I see a picture of your structure? What size building do you build?

Would you do it again and if so what would you do different if anything?

Thanks,

Harry
 

GOOG

Active member
Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
30
Location
Farmingdale, NJ
number3 said:
Can I see a picture of your structure? What size building do you build?

Would you do it again and if so what would you do different if anything?

Thanks,

Harry


My building is 24' deep and 30' wide. I have 3 o/h doors, one walk door and one window. I have 9 1/2' ceiling height. I also have a steel ceiling. I would definitely recomend strat o span to anyone putting up a building. My pakage cost me $5,700.00 in april of '99. I put it up myself with some help from my son.

I wish I made it 30'x40'.

In the springtime I'm going to build a 50'x100' building for my excavating company to work out of.

Tom
 

suprzuk

New member
Joined
Dec 29, 2005
Messages
3
Location
Catskills of NY
I am looking at building a 28x40 using www.socketsystems.com

The plan is to have the "garage" end be 28x20 and open to the roof. The back 28x20 would be under a loft and be able to be my winter workshop that would be heated but have a large set of doors that could be slid open in the summer to open the buiding up.

The reason I am looking at this is that I wouldn't end up wih trusses in the way if I decide to put a lift in down the road.

Kevin
 
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brokenjack

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Richmond, VA, USA
Decided to go with an 84 Lumber Kit

After much research I decided to go with a 24'x32' kit from 84 Lumber. Wanted to go Miracle Truss, but was just too expensive. He gave me the old "I have a building that size in stock from a cancelled order. I can give it to you for this price today." speech. Still too expensive. I also chose stick over steel for ease of insulation and siding choices to blend into my neighborhood better. The 24'x32' kit includes everything, doors, windows, siding, sheathing, shingles etc. for $5,500. I'm sure I'm going to be fighting a little warpage with this cheap kit. I'm going to put it up myself with the help of a few friends and pay a contractor for some of the work. I'm going to modify the building from (2) 9x7 garage doors to 1 12x8, and use taller studs to bring the wall height up to 10 feet, and use attic trusses. I'll also section out a 12'x14' clean room inside.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Messages
5
Location
West Virginia
Garage Package from 84 LUMBER

Brokenjack, a garage package from 84 Lumber is the way to go. Thats what I built in 2001 and am very glad I did. You can make up-grades to your package if you want at time of order. I upgraded 20yr. shingles to 30 yr.Upgraded to treated wood around the framing at the 16' overhead door. After see what black ants did to my son-in-laws header above his 16' overhead door I changed to treated wood in that area. The ants almost ate up his header above his 16' door to the point where he had to jack it up and tear it out and replace it.After seeing that,I always spray for ants once a year around the house and garage. Added a slider window for each of the other walls so that I could have good cross flow ventillation. Installed eve vents at each end.Inside the garage I nailed in hurricane ties purchase from 84 Lumber,and I fastened 4x8 sheets of OSB with drywall screws all the way around the inside of the walls . This served as a nice kick barrier from the floor to 4' up the wall,and also adds alot of strength to the building.From the top of the OSB to the bottom of the trusses I used drywall and then finished and painted it with a good outdoor white Semi-gloss paint from Sears. Use semi-gloss paint because its cleans up good with soap and water where using flat paint does not,you have to repaint then when using flat paint.After the framing is all up and the roof is done and OSB is attached to all your outside walls, and all your electrical outlet boxes are mounted at the wall studs,drill all your holes in your wall studs where you are going to run your electric wires and dont forget NOW is the time to run your SPEAKER wires through your wall studs around the garage to wherever you want if you are gong to have speakers mounted on the wall as I did. Its nice having all that wiring hidden.Dont forget to cut-out and install the inside wall braces at each wall like they show you on your BLUEPRINTS for your Garage Package.When I first started to plan my Garage, I measured it out and drove stakes in the ground and attached ribbon to the stakes and looked at it that way.Then had someone come out and do all the excavating.Then I built the forms and squared them all up and took the time to make sure everything was SQUARE because eveything you do from here-on out will be affected if you dont take the time to get your forms SQUARE. Then I dug out inside the form area where my floor drains wood be and installed Schedule 40 pipe and covered it over. Then I rented a gas powered tamper and tamped the whole area inside the forms. Then I spread about 4 in. of #57 limestone inside the area and then tamped (compackted) it. Then layed down my plastic moisture barrier and wire and rods. My Garage Package was 24x24 and I had five other buddies help me the day we poured all the concrete and we all were kept busy. Important: Ive heard so many different opinions on how long to keep the Concrete wet that I was confused,some said 24 hrs;a couple of days;so between my wife and I we kept it wet for one week solid and to this day I dont have any cracks in the floor and that was poured in 2001. Next I myself built all the walls on top of the pad (which is very nice working on) and when I got all the walls built ,myself and my Son-In Law lifted them up one section at a time and anchored each section to the pad and then fastened each section at the walls together. Then I attached temp. outside braces to help secure the walls.Then myself and a buddy built and attached the beam that went overtop of the ovehead garage door. I attached 2 sheets of OSB to each corner,then Myself and two other buddies erected by hand all the trusses and nailed them in.Myself and one other buddy then installed all the roof sheeting and nailed it all down.Then I went ahead and installed the rest of the OSB on the outside.Then myself and one other friend finished the rest of the roof (shingled it). All the rest I did all myself,vinyl siding,windows,doors,finish inside of garage,drywall,etc. With the exception of the electrical wiring I had someone experenced do all that. I didnt want a seperate meter for the garage because the power company charges you a certain fee whether you go out and turn on a light or not. So I had my guy run all the wiries from my basement where the main box is at,out the wall of the basement and cut a hole in the wall outside of the garage,and installed and sealed a certain length of schedule 40 pipe and ran all the wires through it and into the garage wall where I built a cupboard like deal to hide everything.Looks just like a cupboard small storage area. Now all I pay for is only the electric that I actually use. I LOVE my Garage and am PROUD of all the work that I did on it. It was a very fun and good expreiece. I used to work building constuction before so al that came in handy. Good Luck in you Garage Project and remember to build everything Square and everything will go smooth. Mark
 

comp

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
510
Location
Eville In.
brokenjack said:
After much research I decided to go with a 24'x32' kit from 84 Lumber. Wanted to go Miracle Truss, but was just too expensive. He gave me the old "I have a building that size in stock from a cancelled order. I can give it to you for this price today." speech. Still too expensive. I also chose stick over steel for ease of insulation and siding choices to blend into my neighborhood better. The 24'x32' kit includes everything, doors, windows, siding, sheathing, shingles etc. for $5,500. I'm sure I'm going to be fighting a little warpage with this cheap kit. I'm going to put it up myself with the help of a few friends and pay a contractor for some of the work. I'm going to modify the building from (2) 9x7 garage doors to 1 12x8, and use taller studs to bring the wall height up to 10 feet, and use attic trusses. I'll also section out a 12'x14' clean room inside.
post pic's as it goes :thumbup:
 
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brokenjack

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Richmond, VA, USA
Project documentation

I'll most certainly document and post my progress. Specifically from the point of view of someone who has never built a structure like this before. Since I work in film/video, I just might try to do some video doc as well.

At this point
1. I have chosen the 32' X 24' 3 car plans from 84. They did an estimate for a 2 car version for an all inclusive price of $5650. Doors and windows seemed a little pricey, but as a whole thought it was a deal.
2. Modified the plans to one 12' garage door, relocated the man door and 2 windows and heightened walls from 8' to 10'.
3. Went downtown and applied for a building permit. Fun Fun Fun. Didn't know what to expect, but I had most everything I needed, then had to draw some elevation views, and fill out a builing section form. Whole process took 1.5 hours which included me drawing and waiting in line. Seems like mid-morning around 10am was a good time to be there, since there weren't many people there.
4. Now I'm trying to find a concrete contractor to excavate and do the slab foundation. Called a few. One said he'd come by and do an estimate but never did. It's been almost a week. One place told me they wouldn't do a job that small. I need to call more I know, but it seems like this part is going to be difficult. Anyone recommend a concrete guy in Richmond, Virginia?

More to come
 

sizzler90

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
538
Location
Idaho
Re: Project documentation

I am also looking at a set of plans from 84. Same size as what you said but with an attic. I am waiting for them to get back to me with an estimate. I was wondering if you ever got your quote for the slab? I talked to a guy today that gave me a quote of $4900 for a slab and footings. I think that is high so I will be calling around for others.
 
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