Steel studs

[jkeyser14]

Has anyone here finished their walls with steel studs and drywall? How was it compared to regular 2x4 framing? Everything I have read suggests using #10 self drilling screws, is there a reason pop rivets aren't used? I can't find any references to pop-riveting the frames, but I would think this would allow for a lower profile, making mounting of drywall easier.

 

[overkill 19]

Don't quote me but don't you use a dimple tool to put steel studs together?

 

[IDASHO]

Dimple tool? No.

Self tapping sheetmetal screws, yes.

That said, even if the proper (steel) rivets were used, why would you want to spend the extra time? Everything would have to be pre-drilled to rivet. Screws are used due to being MUCH faster, and they work.

 

[mrb]

i think #10 self drilling screws are used for the red studs. The thinner galvanized ones that you frame non bearing walls with use these little black screws with a really sharp point.

 

[pipehack]

I have no idea what those little black screws are called. I just ask the carpenter on the for some mini's . Or look on the bottom of my boot. But to answer you question. Use the little black screws. You will not notice any dimples that little bit of dry wall will just crush a very little bit. Don't worry about it .

 

[heffneil]

Tek screws which are self tapping usually. Button head.

Down south (florida) where termites and carpenter ants are an issue in addition to flooding and construction elements exposure it is very common.

When someones houses floods from a water pipe break or a hurricane floor the clean up people come in and cut the drywall at about 4 feet or so up and pull out the insulation and re-do it. Works pretty well and it seems all too common.

I know wood is old fashioned and been around forever but I have become a big fan of steel studs. Also a lot of commercial construction (tenant fit outs) are steel studs.

Home that helps.

Neil

p.s. In time or even when screwing the drywall to the studs, I would imagine pop rivets would loosen. Screws are the best way to go about this.

 

[jkeyser14]

Dimple tool? No.

Self tapping sheetmetal screws, yes.

That said, even if the proper (steel) rivets were used, why would you want to spend the extra time? Everything would have to be pre-drilled to rivet. Screws are used due to being MUCH faster, and they work.

Pre-drilling a hole and using a pneumatic rivet gun would only add a few seconds per joint and I feel that the rivet would be much more secure and hold better over time. Plus, the rivet heads would be much lower profile which is why I was considering using them.

p.s. In time or even when screwing the drywall to the studs, I would imagine pop rivets would loosen. Screws are the best way to go about this.

Not true, rivets hold better than screws, especially under vibration.

 

[Buckled]

7 x 7/16 PPH SD (7 threads per inch x 7/16 " long Phillips Pan Head Self Drilling)

Depending on the gauge of track and stud you use you can also get away with a sharp point instead of the seld drilling point.

Those screw heads have a very low profile. You'll want to use a high RPM screw gun (4000 - 4500 RPM's). The typical cordless drill is only about 1600 - 2000 RPM's.

 

[rockwithjason]

around here, the pros use #6 tek screws with button heads. it's fast and solid. no issues with the heads causing problems either.

 

[pipehack]

around here, the pros use #6 tek screws with button heads. it's fast and solid. no issues with the heads causing problems either.

Tek screws! Thanks that one was bugging me. I knew the name just couldn't get it out.

 

[IDASHO]

Pre-drilling a hole and using a pneumatic rivet gun would only add a few seconds per joint and I feel that the rivet would be much more secure and hold better over time. Plus, the rivet heads would be much lower profile which is why I was considering using them.



Not true, rivets hold better than screws, especially under vibration.

Sounds like youve already decided.

So why did you make this thread?

 

[dps]

Of course you could rivet instead, but why? Even the standard Tek screws are really just tacking the studs/track together until the drywall gets screwed and/or glued to them, which is where the strength comes from.

Working with the steel is so nice compared to wood; they are always perfectly straight. No need to drill for most electrical or plumbing, either.

 

[Mattlt]

Plan ahead where you will be hanging cabinets, etc.

 

[jkeyser14]

Plan ahead where you will be hanging cabinets, etc.

Yep, I'm going to run a few supports all the way around the walls for any un-planned future cabinet additions as well.

As for rivets vs. screws, I haven't made up my mind which I am going to use, I was just curious because I had never seen rivets referenced for this application, although it had seemed an intuitive use of pop-rivets.

I'm still in the very early planning stages unfortunately, need to move my metalworking equipment for a couple days (maybe my neighbor will let me put it in his garage), clean everything else out, grind, prep for epoxy, have larger wiring run to sub panel, etc...

 

[russlaferrera]

Rivets are a waste of time. When you set the stud in the channel all that's needed is something to hold it's location. When the drywall is put up those screws will secure everything.

Plus the fact if the stud has to be moved a bit, unscrew and move.

Have you given any thought about spot welding?

 

[chevyoneton]

Don't quote me but don't you use a dimple tool to put steel studs together?

There are both manual and pneumatic stud fastening tools available. They punch a slot through the stud and track flange and fold the tiny ears back in. They work well, especially the pneumatic ones, but are heavy, large, expensive, and are not as friendly to move a stud later as compared to screwing. They are rare and most drywall/metal stud guys will never have seen one let alone the guy on the street.

The profile of the screw head is of no concern as the back of a sheet of drywall is not so stiff as to not let the screw head counter sink into it. I would not mess with rivets, unless I just wanted to. Spot welding is possible but again, who wants to drag around a spot welder to fasten a few studs?? There is a reason the industry standard is screwing……

 

[jkeyser14]

Thanks for the responses guys

 

[tcianci]

The tek screws work perfectly and they are quick and cheap. I once had a hand "dinker" that was used to punch a tab through the stud and the track. It was a waste of time. The slickest setup I have seen is the pre-dimpled track, all you do is cut the studs to length and snap them into the track and the dimples in the track hold them in place till you screw the sheets on, no tek screws at all! As previously mentioned, everything stiffens up nicely once the sheets are screwed on and the tek screws basically do nothing at that point. If you are new to steel framing note that you should try to keep the pre-punched holes in the studs aligned so that it is easy to shoot wires and pipes through the framing, and use the snap in grommets to protect your wiring. You will notice that the punched holes in the studs have a little rectangular cut out on one end of each hole. We usually face the cut out down. The cut out is there to accept a stiffening channel, a light gauge steel channel that snaps into the cut outs and makes the wall exceptionally rigid, a good idea to use once your stud height gets over 8 feet or so. Also frame any openings for doors,etc. , 6inches wider and 3 inches taller than the specified rough opening for the door, then line the opening with double 2 x 4 framing screwed to the metal stud, this makes it easy to install wood frame doors and wood casings.

 

[azspray]

Whatever you decide to use, I recommend you wear gloves while working with steel studs. I thought I was too smart & too tuff to wear gloves and I ended up cutting my thumb pretty deep. Those damn things are like knives.