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steel truss or beam question

RWorth

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Cape Cod , Mass.

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Bottlecapdigger

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To me that seems kinda light, I would use 3" channel for the frame, unless you already have material on hand. But a 420 JD is a good heavy tractor. I would use the 3 " channel all around the outside and the angle iron in between about 12" apart. 3" channel is common and price should be reasonable, But that's me I sometimes overdo things. BCD.
 
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RWorth

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Cape Cod , Mass.
To me that seems kinda light, I would use 3" channel for the frame, unless you already have material on hand. But a 420 JD is a good heavy tractor. I would use the 3 " channel all around the outside and the angle iron in between about 12" apart. 3" channel is common and price should be reasonable, But that's me I sometimes overdo things. BCD.

You think 3" channel would be stronger than the 2 2x3 angle welded together?

Eric
 
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RWorth

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It's a JD 420 hydrostatic garden tractor, it weighs approx 1000 lbs, has a 400lb 47" snow blower and a weight bar on the rear with 300lbs of weight on it, so with an operator approx. 1900lbs. It also has a 60" mower so I went the 72" width.

PS. and some people have a 1A and 2A hoisting Lic. and a CDL and can assure you the little 420 is a tractor. :beer: Hey, I replaced my old JD 140 with this guy and the 140 would push half a blade of fill with a 250lb slab of concrete slapped on it's ***. That's better than a D5 :)
 
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bigguns69

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Aug 23, 2011
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Iowa
The welded 2x6 channel will be strong enough. What you might fight is bowing of your new beam due to the heat induced into the joint. If that is the material you have to work with, you will want to skip weld from the ends working towards the center till you have a complete weld joint. Constrain the angles to hold form with clamps and straight edges for support.

I would get some 3" heavy or 4" light channel and move on from there.
 

BD1

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Find the trailer you want and duplicate it. Most of those lightweight trailers require the top angle above the bed or deck. That actually acts like a truss to help support the load on deck.
I would definitely upgrade to larger thicker material.
 
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RWorth

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Thanx for the suggestions. Ok then, the new plan will be to keep the top rail ,but use the 2x3x3/16 for both the top and bottom, and I have some 2x2x3/16 for the uprights, and because I don't think that is a very good truss design I will add a 2x3/16 flat from the ends of the bottom rail to the center of the top rail.

Does that sound like a better plan?
 
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RWorth

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Been busy but finally got back to some welding on the trailer. I dropped the side height to 16 incase I want to fill in to haul leaves or dirt, that will allow me to use 1 4x8 sheet of anything I want to do both sides and the front. clamped the axle under it to see what it looked like tilted, without the deck wood and the side posts inplace it's only 15" off the ground,+ 1-1/2" decking, so it's a pretty nice incline. Should load easily.I'll make a hinged tailgate at the 16" height and taper it to the ground when open. Oh and that 15"
deck height is with 33" rubber, it will be even less with 29' to 30" tires

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=864691&stc=1&d=1550445466

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=864692&stc=1&d=1550445497
 

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