Steel type for bench top??

[Elkjunkie]

Hey all- I am looking for advice on countertop material. I picked up some old blueprint cabinets and want to top them with steel. I think I'm set on 3/16 but unsure on type. I can get high tensile for about 15 bucks more per sheet than the standard (41something whatever) at $265. The surface will be for engine and hydraulic work.

 

[NUTTSGT]

How close is this to you ?


https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=5959&acctid=8445

 

[matt_i]

Your classic hot rolled A36 plate or 1018 cold rolled sheet is typical material, unless you want to get into stainless. The 3/16" is probably sold as 7ga sheet. The yards around here refer to thinner than 1/4" as sheet and 1/4" plus as plate. Iff you can get cold rolled it typically has a nicer surface finish without the mill scale.

The top is only as good as the structure underneath it, just like the framing span for a plywood floor. I like a ladder-frame underneath rather than trying to support on the cabinets themselves, can be square tube or channel, or ??? Another nice detail is integrating "leveling mounts" or swiveling feet with threaded studs, into the vertical legs so you can adjust for level and deal with concrete variations (within the screw thread travel) no matter where you put it.

 

[Elkjunkie]

Thanks for the link
One of those would be great for my other counter, unfortunately they are about 400 miles across the state from me

The sheets are going to overlay existing 1-1/4" formica countertops. Guys next door at work will bend the front and backsplash for me. A36 is not what the steel sales guy quoted me. Perhaps just different lingo? I told him "1/4 is more than I need" he said 3/16 no mention of gauge; just high-tensile or the 41?? number.

 

[sberry]

3/16 is really good, probably better than needed. 10 or even 11. But,,, you can dent it with a heavy hammer if it matters. Lots of covers made with 12.

 

[readhead]

Matt, just to clarify (I was a union tinner for twenty years) 1/4" is considered sheet metal. It is 3ga. As a union shop we were allowed to work up to 1/4. That's not to say we didn't bend some thicker stuff from time to time.

Back to the OP. If you can, try to specify flat material. The material comes off of coils and some suppliers do a better job of flattening than others. Bends front and back will help quite a bit. A36 mild steel will be fine for what you are doing.

 

[APEowner]

If you can afford it it's hard to beat stainless. That's what I had in my NY shop and I never regretted it.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

My favorite bench tops are 1/2" A36 plate.
You can beat the **** out of it with a hammer and not dish it (yes, there will be a little dent where the hammer hit, but the whole plate won't dish like 3/16" will).
Leave an overhang on the front/side and you can clamp things to the edge.
It's thick enough that you can drill/tap to mount a vice or similar.
You can weld to it and grind it back off without issue - it's rigid enough for most any fixture/jigging you want to do
Due to the above, it's also typically flat enough for most layout work

I've worked on 3/16 steel top benches supported by 3" of real wood underneath, rolled front/back, etc and there's a huge (12" diameter, 1/4" deep) dish next to the vice where everything gets hammered on.

Stainless is nice visually, but I find it hard to work on due to it being so shiny, kind of like working on a mirror. It's also typically thin so has the above mentioned issues and stainless is relatively "soft/gummy" so things gouge into it easily. If you're doing engine/hydraulic work, you won't have any rust problems with plain steel.

 

[bad_idea]

A36 is the run of the mill flavor of steel. Anything more than that for your application is a waste of money. If you are sheeting existing bench tops, then I would stick with 1/8". The difference between 1/8" and 3/16" will be negligible. Both thicknesses will dent if hammered on. 1/8" will be 5.1 lbs per square foot, while 3/16 will be 7.6 lbs per square foot. Depending on the quality of the bench and size, that extra weight could make a difference. The price will definitely be a difference, a price that I think will not add any benefit.

I suggest you get a piece of 2x12 1' long to place on the bench for when you need to hammer on something. The wood will deform rather than the bench. Will also be much quieter. Who wants to hear the sound of steel on steel bashing? No thanks.

 

[Super Mech]

I've got 1/8 mild steel sheet on mine. It's got 3/4 plywood underneath it and plenty of 2x4 cross bracing. It's plenty stiff. If I have to do and heavy hammering, I put something between the work and the bench as not to dent it with a missed hammer blow.
I had a friend who did all the small engine repair for a large construction company. He built a bench with 6" pipe legs and some I-beams. He then topped it with a brand new roadway plate! Talk about overkill! The thing was beautiful.

 

[Super Mech]

I've got 1/8 mild steel sheet on mine. It's got 3/4 plywood underneath it and plenty of 2x4 cross bracing. It's plenty stiff. If I have to do and heavy hammering, I put something between the work and the bench as not to dent it with a missed hammer blow.
I had a friend who did all the small engine repair for a large construction company. He built a bench with 6" pipe legs and some I-beams. He then topped it with a brand new roadway plate! Talk about overkill! The thing was beautiful.

 

[bdbecker]

If the difference is only $15 for the project, go with the 4130. In this application I doubt you'd ever really notice the difference, but it may give you a slightly longer lifespan before needing replacement down the road.

 

[Elkjunkie]

I have reached the conclusion that with my free but very used cabinets I should stick with my penny pinching theme and get the A36 in 1/8" . Perhaps when I tackle one of those bench build threads I will step it up to something significant. Thanks for all the help and info. I'll post a pic later this week when I get it.

 

[bad_idea]

Awesome. Now take the cheapness to another level and search out some used 1/8". Call around to small fab shops and search out a scrap yard that sells used metal. Worse case, should be able to find a steel supplier that will cut the plate down to just what you need. Find out what the price of the plate will be after the cut fee, may save a couple dollars that way.

 

[Responder]

I have 1/8”;on mine. It’s not my “beating” top are and it works fine. The problem I am having is staining. Anyone use a product called SHARKHIDE? Sorry for the hijack.