Steel Window Installation

[Wiebster]

I’ve searched everywhere on the internet to absolutely no avail. Can someone, anyone please tell me how to install salvaged steel windows into a 2x6 wall with one coat (2 coat) stucco exterior and drywall interior. The window frames are basically 13/16” angle iron flange. I would like to set the windows deep into the framing, flush on the interior. The 1” exterior foam will wrap around the 2x6 and be the return into the framing and stop at the window. I also need room then for the 3/8 - 1/2” thick stucco coat. I would like this final thickness of stucco to just touch or overlap the frame by 1/8”, which I would then caulk. I do understand the attachment points are through the ”jamb” accessible with the window open, not through the face frame like a vinyl window. I thought about screwing a 1x2 perpendicular to the 2x6 flush to the interior and screwing the window into the edge of that. The 1x2 width would accommodate the foam and stucco thickness within the window framing but any twisting of the 2x6 would be amplified where the window attached and affect window sealing and operation. Not sure how to “float” the window within the opening. I’m also creating finishing problems on the interior by having the windows set so deep, not sure how to detail the drywall or trim on the inside either. I realize setting the window in the center of the framing might alleviate some of these issues but it’s not the look I’m going for. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Bert_]

Got any pictures of the windows? I am assuming the windows were originally intended for a solid masonry wall.

You will need some sort of sill. It needs to slope outward so water drains.

 

[nadogail]

My lack of a visual image of your walls and windows, as well as any knowledge of your local conditions precludes me from offering any constructive comments.

 

[Wiebster]

Bert, yes to all your comments. I understand the flashing and sill requirements. These windows were all pulled from stucco houses in Tucson. I’m located nearby in a very dry climate but with changing it humidity throughout the seasons. I just sketched my 1x2 idea out to see if it would work. The first pic is the look I’m trying to duplicate. The profile of the frames are 1” total thickness, the “channel” is 3/4” wide and the outside flange is only 1/2” bigger than the inside frame so not much room to play with. The frames will be sandblasted, powder coated and new low-e glass installed.

 

[Wiebster]

So I’m worried if I go with my sketched idea, if the 2x6 studs twist or are not perfectly straight it would really affect the window sealing and operation.

 

[Wiebster]

I’m also not committed to any particular framing, sheathing, or stucco style yet. I’m starting framing today and need to know RO sizes so still time to change my direction. However I am determined to reuse the windows and stick with that Santa Fe/ Southwestern look.

 

[The Cobbler]

in any event, your install method would need to include a bottom sill or you will have water leaks .
and you already know those windows are horribly inefficient. will they pass inspection?

 

[Bert_]

Bert, yes to all your comments. I understand the flashing and sill requirements. These windows were all pulled from stucco houses in Tucson. I’m located nearby in a very dry climate but with changing it humidity throughout the seasons. I just sketched my 1x2 idea out to see if it would work. The first pic is the look I’m trying to duplicate. The profile of the frames are 1” total thickness, the “channel” is 3/4” wide and the outside flange is only 1/2” bigger than the inside frame so not much room to play with. The frames will be sandblasted, powder coated and new low-e glass installed.

I'm not a big fan of the 1x2's. It's going to allow the window to move quite a bit compared to the stucco. You will never keep the joint sealed.

I'll think about it some more and share any ideas

 

[Wiebster]

in any event, your install method would need to include a bottom sill or you will have water leaks .
and you already know those windows are horribly inefficient. will they pass inspection?

They’re still making steel windows. They just cost an arm and a leg now because they’re trendy. Glass has an R value of less than 2. No windows are efficient.

 

[Wiebster]

I'm not a big fan of the 1x2's. It's going to allow the window to move quite a bit compared to the stucco. You will never keep the joint sealed.

I'll think about it some more and share any ideas

I don’t like it either. I do metal working too, so I can weld tabs or modify with steel too if that opens up any options. Thank you for spending time thinking about it. I honestly appreciate your effort.

 

[Wiebster]

 

[Wiebster]

Super strut lag bolted to 2x6 with spring nut? Seems complicated but throwing it out there to jog ideas. I also don’t need to have the thick 1“ foam wrap around the 2X6 for the stucco substrate. It could be as thin as 1/2” if that helps? This method would allow window to float up in down in the super strut channel and would not flex like the 1x2s. Another idea but not throughly thought out is base coat stucco entire RO first, insert window, attach to (something) and then finish coat up to steel frame. This would eliminate the deep framing (1x2”) to accommodate the 1” foam. Just thoughts…

 

[Firebrick43]

Is this stucco, or EIFS, aka acrylic stucco?

 

[The Cobbler]

They’re still making steel windows. They just cost an arm and a leg now because they’re trendy. Glass has an R value of less than 2. No windows are efficient.

I agree, but weatherstripping, thermal broken frames and no air leaks add to the overall . anyway, I do like the look of those old windows.

 

[Wiebster]

Is this stucco, or EIFS, aka acrylic stucco?

In AZ, the typical stucco here is called one coat (really 2 coats). substrate, two layers of tar paper, 1” or 2” polystyrene foam, 20 ga chicken wire, 3/8-1/2” cement troweled stucco mix ( no scratching) 1/8”ish finish coat (also cementitious). Not EIFS or acrylic finish coat.

 

[Wiebster]

I agree, but weatherstripping, thermal broken frames and no air leaks add to the overall . anyway, I do like the look of those old windows.

I like the classic look too, I like to recycle and can live with their U-value. When my county or city starts to pay my electric bills, they can tell me what kind of windows to install in my own house.

 

[Monza Harry]

You could have the windows [steel frames] ceramic coated [Jet Hot, is the most widely known]. Colour choice is limited and for this application would require 2-3 firings, those would improve the frames "R" value. Powder could be over-layed on the ceramic as well(?) See if a local Glazier can fit some multi-pane glass in those frames, that would also help with "R" values, not much room for typical multi pane with those frames, and you should consider Argon gas if you can get multi-pane glass. I think you are closer to a realistic option with something like your uni-strut plan of attack. Not sure that it would work but seems like a far better approach than 1x2 from many lines of sight. While the R value may or may not be in the local building codes your wallet will thank you for bumping that up as high as you can! Harry

 

[Wiebster]

Thank you Monza for your input, I appreciate it.

 

[Bert_]

Could possibly use 1 1/2" angle iron in place of the 1x2's. One leg would be to fasten the window the other would attach to the stud behind your foam. Not sure if it's the best approach.