Lol, Steevo ups the bar on his workbench again.
Well done sir, looks great.
Well done sir, looks great.
Steel work bench surface - rust free
- Thread starter Steevo
- Start date
Hornman
Well-known member
Wow! I read the MSDS on the SheilaShine and it scared me! A known carcinogen (perchloroethylene), and four suspected carcinogens (exylene, ethylbenzene, and the two parafinic hydrocarboms). Now I understand why it was labeled "For Industrial Use". You bought this stuff in a restaurant supply house? In California? I'm stunned. 
Please use chemical grade rubber gloves and really good ventilation when using this stuff.
Please use chemical grade rubber gloves and really good ventilation when using this stuff.bimmer1980
Well-known member
How much ($) was the Sheila shine for that size?
I have some stuff at home that is for applying to table saws that I think is more wax based....
I wish my bench was that clean... It takes dedication to put tools away to keep a bench that clean. Mine is usually a dumping ground until I go nuts and put everything away...
RE: Opinions...they are like A-holes and Armpits...Everybody has a couple and they all stink to some degree....
BTW--nice work on the Benches.... We should all aspire to be that clean and tidy!
I have some stuff at home that is for applying to table saws that I think is more wax based....
I wish my bench was that clean... It takes dedication to put tools away to keep a bench that clean. Mine is usually a dumping ground until I go nuts and put everything away...
RE: Opinions...they are like A-holes and Armpits...Everybody has a couple and they all stink to some degree....
BTW--nice work on the Benches.... We should all aspire to be that clean and tidy!
It amuses me that people actually think I "keep" my benches that clean . . .
Not so much. Staged photo-op, more likely.
As for carcinogens, puleeze!
I am 58 years old. When I was a kid, we ate lead paint for fun. We ground up asbestos rocks to make mud paste to seal our forts with. I used pure benzene as a cleaning solvent, and for sticking plastic parts together (and for burning stuff up). We used real TesTors model cement in an enclosed area with no ventilation (fun times). We had toys with sharp edges, toys that exploded, and toys with exposed mechanical gears to **** your fingers in. Tossing kids off the teeter-totter onto their heads was an acceptable practice. Kids carried firecrackers and frogs in the same pocket of their jeans. TSP was available full strength from the paint store, and we washed walls with it. We had insecticides like Diazinon that actually killed insects, not the watered down earth-friendly "bug deterrents" that they sell nowadays.
I miss the good old days.
Not so much. Staged photo-op, more likely.
As for carcinogens, puleeze!
I am 58 years old. When I was a kid, we ate lead paint for fun. We ground up asbestos rocks to make mud paste to seal our forts with. I used pure benzene as a cleaning solvent, and for sticking plastic parts together (and for burning stuff up). We used real TesTors model cement in an enclosed area with no ventilation (fun times). We had toys with sharp edges, toys that exploded, and toys with exposed mechanical gears to **** your fingers in. Tossing kids off the teeter-totter onto their heads was an acceptable practice. Kids carried firecrackers and frogs in the same pocket of their jeans. TSP was available full strength from the paint store, and we washed walls with it. We had insecticides like Diazinon that actually killed insects, not the watered down earth-friendly "bug deterrents" that they sell nowadays.
I miss the good old days.
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Wow! I read the MSDS on the SheilaShine and it scared me! A known carcinogen (perchloroethylene), and four suspected carcinogens (exylene, ethylbenzene, and the two parafinic hydrocarboms). Now I understand why it was labeled "For Industrial Use". You bought this stuff in a restaurant supply house? In California? I'm stunned.
I have yet to read a MSDS that didn't sound scary. According to wiki, perchloroethylene is dry cleaning fluid. I'm sure if you bathe lab rats in it they will eventually develop some abnormalities. I'm not dismissing the info as useless but the typical MSDS fails to provide any context. Maybe someone with a background in chemistry can jump in here and explain more. I suspect once the solvents have evaporated off there's nothing too harmful left.
Modern Jess
Well-known member
I nominate this for post of the week.
humanbeingexpert
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2013
- Messages
- 34
I bought some Sheila sign due to the OP post, the comments re toxicity almost amuse me
Hornman
Well-known member
HA! I expected this post from someone, I just didn't expect it to be Stevo. Bravo sir! I'm 66 so I experienced all that you have and some more: chasing beads of liquid mercury around the floor of my Dad's shop, spraying for roaches and ants in the college apartment with Chlordane, M80's, the neighborhood ten year olds grabbing their guns and dogs and going rabbit hunting with no parental supervision, leaded gasoline. I have lived long enough to know that life is hazardous to your health. I also was introduced to Mr Cancer earlier this year, so I'm not as brave as I used to be. I'm fine, but I felt that folks should be as fully informed as possible so they can make their own choices. If someone wants to juggle flaming chainsaws, that is their business as long as they don't drop one on me.
By the way, bitchin' workbench! I personally like the shiny top.
ScurvyPete
Well-known member
In the welding shop I used to work in, we used to clean bare metal surfaces by buffing with an angle grinder to remove surface rust, and then applying a thin layer of car wax (the last time I did it, we had Turtle Wax. I suspect Johnson's paste wax would work equally well, though) to protect from rust and keep the surface slick.
We did this mostly on stuff like where you would feed metal into the hydraulic shear, horizontal bandsaw, table saw, etc. Flat surfaces where the paint wore off from heavy use.
The wax worked really well, and we'd do it about twice a year (at the end of every school semester) because we used the equipment daily. I suspect such treatment would last longer (perhaps one application a year) in a home setting.
We did this mostly on stuff like where you would feed metal into the hydraulic shear, horizontal bandsaw, table saw, etc. Flat surfaces where the paint wore off from heavy use.
The wax worked really well, and we'd do it about twice a year (at the end of every school semester) because we used the equipment daily. I suspect such treatment would last longer (perhaps one application a year) in a home setting.
got2boostit2
Well-known member
I bought Sheila shine from Wally mart online. The first box that arrived had a bottle of toilet bowl cleaner in it. They finally sent the correct stuff two weeks later. Lol but have requested I return the TB cleaner.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Steevo, a big thanks for recommending the Sheila Shine.
Worked great.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Worked great.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
Stainless rusts....work with it on a daily basis.
sqznby
Well-known member
I love me some Shelia-Shine, great stuff.
Steevo, Bench is lookin good man
Z, love it, looks great
Only the best quality SS will not rust. That's all dependent on packaging, handling, cutting and fabrication/welding process. You need to use specific tool for stainless and stainless only. Then it wont rust.
Steevo, Bench is lookin good man
Z, love it, looks great
Only the best quality SS will not rust. That's all dependent on packaging, handling, cutting and fabrication/welding process. You need to use specific tool for stainless and stainless only. Then it wont rust.
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Firebrick43
Well-known member
Sort of true. 300 series ss will not rust if worked correctly. But you can use steel tools on stainless and have it not rust. (Never use a steel wire wheel however). All stainless should be passivated (cleaned then acid dip) before shipping. The acid eats away any traces of iron left on the surface.
sberry
Banned
You can pound the **** out of something else but a nice bench top. I really rarely got to hammerer hard on it, I go to an anvil or heavier plate. This is nice to clean, easy to wipe a spill which I completely understand. A guy doesn't have to be a pig and can use a paper towel.
I had to fire a couple over that, had to train a helper that because he wiped grease all over his shirt and pants at home he didn't do it here and to use a wipe and wash up.
Wipe a gob before slipping a wrench over it, no law says you got to make as big a mess as you can. I am not a total neat freak but do wipe oil or grease immediately, its just easier and faster than trying to clean it off the walls.
I had to fire a couple over that, had to train a helper that because he wiped grease all over his shirt and pants at home he didn't do it here and to use a wipe and wash up.
Wipe a gob before slipping a wrench over it, no law says you got to make as big a mess as you can. I am not a total neat freak but do wipe oil or grease immediately, its just easier and faster than trying to clean it off the walls.
sberry
Banned
I can paint the same way, only evidence of what I was doing was some **** on the outside of my old gun. I put a wrench I don't need back as I get one I do. I had guys manage to pour bondo or spill colors we aint even using on the ceiling, wouldnt even be so bad if they wipe it up but to leave it that way,,, gonna clean it "later" I cant tolerate. Anyone can piss on the floor but how much work you got to do to **** on the ceiling?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks Steevo. Just following your lead on the bench.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Steevo, can I ask, how high above the top of your bench is the bottom of your wall cabinets and how tall is your bench? I have some wall cabinets I'm getting ready for paint and install and your setup looks pretty user friendly. Thank you.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
You left out the chlordane that our dads sprayed all around the house...
aczr2k
Well-known member
I've been looking for something to use on my Blanchard ground welding table. WD40 is greasy and then it evaporates. Weld cote works fine but does nothing for rust prevention. Yes I use my table but one sweaty hand print will rust in a few days time. Might just have to give the sheila shine a try.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
Try Johnson's Paste Wax in the yellow can. Available in most grocery stores, Walmart, hardware stores, etc.
WhiskeyRanger
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2015
- Messages
- 398
Depends on the thickness of material used.
I'm an electrician, you leave it in our shop for a day and it will be dented, leave it in the millwright shop and it will be broken.
After Mike (Zmotorsports) recommended it to me (Steevo recommended it to him), I think I may be a convert.
I've tried a bunch of different things from oil to wax, wax being what I've been using most recently because it's the cleanest, less "filmy-est."
However, I just gave Shiela Shine a go and I think this may be the best chemical to use, so far. Time will tell but I'm liking the results.
Bench top is raw 1/4" thick steel.
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Jesus!
Use the frikken benches and they will take care of themselves!
Use the frikken benches and they will take care of themselves!
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My Old Tools
Well-known member
I think the half life is a hundred years or so.
ratdoggy
Well-known member
Depends on the thickness of material used.
The guys that work for me could with a forklift.
Duker
Well-known member
A question for you guys who have used Sheila Shine for awhile, are any of you in a high humidity area and has it helped minimize rust? So far Fluid Film has been the best thing I have found for humid Houston but I am curious to see if this might be a better replacement.
Strouty
Well-known member
I have a huge welding table that I want to store outside, any thoughts on what would work? I was figuring I would keep it under an overhang, but it will still be outside.
ChevyEFI
Well-known member
I just feel like replying cosmoline.
metalmagpie
Well-known member
I like a product called CRC 3-36. I use it on bare metal and have seen it completely prevent rust on workbench tops for periods of five years up. But mostly it's great on machined cast iron tables. My horizontal band saw is equipped with coolant and after every use its table (bottom of vise and beyond, a ground flat surface) gets wiped and sprayed with CRC 3-36. No more coolant stains. It also works great on my welding table which has a heavy cast iron top which was once planed flat. Love the stuff.
metalmagpie
metalmagpie
Strouty
Well-known member
The cosmoline would work well, but be a mess the next time I used the table.
I will have to look into the CRC 3-36.
I will have to look into the CRC 3-36.