steel workbench surface?

[byrdman]

Maybe I should have called this thread "Son of let's see your workbench"!?!

As you may know from another thread here, I'm preparing to weld together my workbench from 2" square tube steel. The obvious choice for a top surface is 3/16" or 1/8" steel plate, but won't that rust pretty quickly? Do you guys coat it with paint or sealer or just let it go? I'm tempted to POR-15 it, but I might use it for a welding table from time to time.

Stainless seems like overkill, and probably expensive- there's ~30 square feet of surface to cover. Plus, I'm a begining welder and joining SS to mild steel is probably above what I can do for now.

Please let me know your thoughts, tips and experiences...

 

[Matt Harwood]

How about galvanized? Less expensive, you can weld to it (though I wouldn't really recommend it if it's thin), and it's easy to form.

If you go with the steel plate, I wouldn't paint it. Instead, use tool oil to keep it oiled so that it doesn't rust. We had a heavy steel table and used this stuff once every few weeks to keep it from rusting. The surface wasn't oily, just enough to keep it from rusting. You don't have to really saturate it, just wipe it down. For welding and general work, it's pretty hard to beat.

Hope this helps.

 

[Major Ramifications]

I was also thinking galvanized steel for the top. Mild steel rusts very quickly down here in all of this humidity, so at work we usually get "pickled" steel for most mild steel projects. The pickled steel is oil treated, or something like that.
I also want to suggest using Johnson's Paste Wax on the steel surface. I use it occasionally on my old cast iron table saw top, and it keeps it smooth, pretty, and prevents rust.

 

[jstbecauz]

I usually use wood for my bench tops. In my opinion I prefer the wooded tops for most work however the steel ones com in handy for some things.

 

[ErVikingo]

Powder coat?

 

[byrdman]

Matt- I thought welding galvanized steel caused bad-for-you zinc fumes? Good advice on the tool oil.

Major - Never heard of "pickled" steel. Can you still weld to it? Can you paint it?

Jstbecauz - I've always had wooden workbenches before, and they end up with holes, gouges and scratches. They just don't seem as durable for a working automotive shop. But I'm sure I'll find drawbacks of a metal surface too.

ErVikingo - I've never powdercoated anything. Seems too big to do myself, and having someone else do it would be fairly expensive I would think? Sure would look cool though!

I'm leaning towards using steel for the whole shebang. I could paint part of it, and leave part of it natural. The bench is multipurpose- some of it will just be a place to put tools and supplies, while some will be used as a work surface.

Or, I could do the working part in steel, and do the tools/storage part in wood. hmmm. decisions, decisions!

 

[Major Ramifications]

Major - Never heard of "pickled" steel. Can you still weld to it? Can you paint it?

Yes, it is weldable and paintable. If you are going to paint it, then I wouldn't worry about getting the pickled stuff. I think it is called P&O (pickled and oiled).

 

[Drhans]

I used 3/4 plywood and then skinned it with 22ga stainless steel sheet metal. It is amazing and only $40 for the 27"x96" metal sheet.

 

[ckblum]

For all our work at our shop (helicopter MRO), we use wood top benches for sheet metal, and wood tops with a thick 1/4 rubber surface for mechanical work. Doesn't damage parts like a steel surface would, easier to change a table top when it does get damaged too. We usually just screw another sheet of MDF on top, the benches are all 4x8, some have 4-5 sheets of 3/4 MDF.

IMO steel is really only good for a welding table or machinist work if it's ground flat. I don't like scuffing and scratching parts, I'd rather replace a sheet of MDF every 6 months, and that's in a professional shop setting. The top in my dad and I's old shop lasted 10 years doing bikes and family's vehicles occasionally.

 

[rodm1]

I have a few 1 inch steel work benches and I just let them rust. They get a light coating of rust on them but it kind of stops rusting after awhile. I suppose you could oil them with used engine oil from time to time.

 

[APEowner]

The mild steel top of my motorcycle lift is bare steel. I gets used regularly and doesn't rust much. When it does I just hit it with the DA sander.

My preferred workbench is wood framed with 1/2 inch plywood top and 0.060 thick stainless top.

 

[Stuart in MN]

If you use the bench regularly and leave it oily and greasy, it probably won't be a problem.

 

[1/2 Cup]

I have multiple work bench surfaces for different tasks - timber, aluminium and plain mild steel which I just wipe over weekly with WD40 or CRC.

 

[zcar751]

I like to uses 3/4" MDF two layers thick minimum with polyurethane for protection for my personal shop. Now at work we (Garbage company truck shop) we use 1/2" steal plate work benches on 2x2 tube frames. Those guys will brake and aviel with a wet news paper.

 

[csp]

Yes, it is weldable and paintable. If you are going to paint it, then I wouldn't worry about getting the pickled stuff. I think it is called P&O (pickled and oiled).

P&O is nice to work with for projects as it doesn't have any mill scale to deal with.

I'm glad I don't have the humidity problem that so many of you have. My welding table was built about a year ago. It still hasn't been painted, has no type of oil or wax on it, and it basically still rust free.

Boeshield is one thing I see regularly mentioned for inhibiting rust on steel.

 

[dcarden]

16 GA Galvanized here with 3 sheets of 3/8 glued plywood underneath.

 

[vonhef]

I built an eight ft welding table from 3/16" plate and square tubing. Painted the square tubing black... but left the top unfinished. The unfinished plate came with a dark protective finish from the metal shop and has held up well over the last several years since this was built. I just keep it protected with wd40 or other spray can stuff.

(Edit: the protective finish is the mill scale mentioned in another post)

 

[Theo911]

galvanized sheet with 1" alum trim around edges.

 

[ClintNZ]

I have a 1/4" steel top on the welding & general use end of my bench, I painted underneath with heat resistant paint but left the top mill scale finish. It has held up well, every now & then I give it a wipe with WD40. Any stubborn weld splatter or burrs just get removed with a touch of the flap disc on the grinder. I find it a good multi purpose surface. 2" overhang on the front for clamping to. Being able to stick magnets to it is often handy.

Cheers
Clint

 

[22george]

galvanized steel will give off toxic fumes when you weld. I originally painted the top of my 1 " thick steel welding table, but ended up grinding it off because the paint ended up blistering up some when l welded and it smoked.
On my regular workbenches l used 2x4s and put belt from a conveyor belt on top.

 

[bczygan]

Picked up a 20"x36" piece of 1/8" thick rubber for $20. It comes in 36" width so you could cover anything.

Also available thicker

http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/

 

[isb cornbinder]

I posted something in "lets see your workbench". The material I used for the lift table/workbench is diamond-plate. I have two different steel sheets that fit the table top when I need smooth. For lighter work one sheet is .125" and for heavier welding and fabrication, the other sheet is .250".
For the rare times that I do wood-work, there is a fitted plywood sheet for the bench top.
The bench is equipped with a ratchet strap tie-down on each corner.

 

[brianpgriset]

Have a 1/4 inch steel bench down south near the gulf coast. My top had mill scale but I removed it all with muratic acid leaving a bright metal top. I coat it probably once a year or so with Johnsons paste wax. It holds up well. I only get small rust blooms every few months and just hit them with a wire wheel and re coat the area.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I'd go with 1/4" steel plate minimum i you're a welder, 3/16" if not.
Remove mill scale with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a stripper disc.
Wipe surface with motor oil and use rags to remove excess.

 

[-Brent-]

I sprayed the bottom of my steel bench top with Picklex-20 (not necessary, just had some leftover). The top I used some paste wax on and it holds up just fine. Mine, too, is 1/4". I considered going thicker but the price was prohibitive.

 

[padroo]

When I worked in the steel mill we welded on out 1 inch thick workbenches and it really messed the surface up. Take a cup grinder to it and it looked almost new again. I miss the commercial grade of tools and equipment now I am retired. Our shop crane was rated at 160 ton. My shop hoist is rated at 400 lbs. Lol