Stem wall to drywall HEADACHE!

[dallas_texas94]

Gentlemen, I’m working on finishing out my garage into an all purpose place. Previous homeowner placed it so it’s hardly functional for vehicles so I’m turning it into small theater, gym, and adding kitchenette, bathroom.

it’s got a row of cinder block around the bottom. I’m struggling to know how to transition drywall to cinder block at the bottom. I built out the framing to be flush with cinder block so cabinets don’t have to be notched. However, not the drywall will overhang 1/2”. Fixed one problem but created another. Any help and advice is GREATLY appreciated!

Also, should I worry about that cinder block not being insulated? Worth filling with spray foam while I’m able to easily access?

 

[nmk_61802]

If hanging horizontal sheets, cut the bottom taper off and use drywall J as the finished edge.

Phillips gripSTIK® 1/2" x 10' Vinyl J-Bead

Phillips gripSTIK® J-Trim provides a finished edge at door and window openings along with other various wallboard intersections. This product does not require any joint compound and can be nailed or slipped on.

www.menards.com

 

[billconner]

In Dallas, I would not worry about insulating block course. Filling block with foam is not helpful. Up here - been in single digits a while - I'd either build wall thicker and get 2" of foam on it or put foam on exterior down well below grade. Or I would have raised floor to top of block.

 

[jmiller_2308]

If the cinder block wall is high enough treat it with some other material and create a wainscot feel. In my shop the cinder block knee wall is 3' high and I used steel roofing material capped off with a board that the sheet rock runs into.

 

[Viper98912]

In the past I've stopped the drywall just short of the stem wall, and install baseboard trim on the bottom edge that covers the drywall edge and sits on the top edge of the block, or overlaps over the block just slightly (if the overhang allows). When epoxying the floors, I also epoxy up the stem wall as well.

 

[PopcornSutton]

I would use J trim on the drywall to sit on the block, then caulk the joint. Get a good block filler paint, get a good coat on so you don't see any pin holes, them paint the block as you wish. Same as the drywall or make an accent, etc.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I think I would just run the drywall down to about a 1/2" off the floor. Once it's screwed to the rest of the wall, I'd run a few tap-cons through the drywall into the block.

At that point, all you are doing is merely holding the drywall in place. I would even forgo those if there's cabinets in front.