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Step Bit Selection?
- Thread starter 809
- Start date
bwringer
Well-known member
Stopping at the correct step can be more difficult than expected. I mark the step above where I want to stop with sharpie, but this gets harder the more steps there are and the thinner they are.
And depending on the bit and what you're drilling, the steps may not be deep enough; for example making a mounting hole in thick-ish plastic.
And depending on the bit and what you're drilling, the steps may not be deep enough; for example making a mounting hole in thick-ish plastic.
There are important differences.
If you want to drill through thicker material, each step needs to be longer so it will exit the back side before the next step engages the front side of the material. However, long step bits are usually more of a hassle when working in tighter areas, so that's why most step drill bits don't have long steps.
If a step drill goes too large at the top end, the bit itself often will not fit down into the area where you want to drill a smaller hole.
If you want to drill thin sheet metal, you are better off with a step drill that has straight cutting edges instead of cutting edges that curve or slowly spiral around the bit. Straight cutting edges help the bit to better cut through thin material without the bit wanting to grab at or self-feed into the material.
If you want to be able to make custom sized holes in thin material, buy a step drill that's cone shaped or stepless. If you don't need to make custom sized holes, skip the cone shaped bits, because they are harder to stop at the right spot consistently if you are wanting to drill multiple holes of equal diameter.
If you want to enlarge existing holes in areas that have obstructions close behind, use a step bit that has a correctly sized large blunt cut end. Those can be expensive though, so that's why it is nice to have a couple cheap step bits on hand. If you use a cutoff wheel to remove the end of a cheap step bit for a custom one-time job, you will only be out a couple dollars instead of $20+.
I have probably 20 or so step bits. Cheap ones like the ones from HF as well as high quality brands. The cheap ones are more likely to go dull on the cutting edge, the expensive bits will stay sharp longer but will often eventually chip at the cutting edge. I prefer bits that go dull instead of chipping, so my selection leans a bit more towards the cheaper bits. I can resharpen a dull straight cut step bit a couple times pretty easily by using a Dremel or Foredom tool. You often have to grind away a lot of material to remove a chipped cutting edge, so a badly chipped higher quality bit is often not fixable. You have to either lean the bit side to side (while cutting by hand) to get it to cut through the chipped area or you throw it away.
Most people would be best served by picking up a couple cheap step bits (that still have good online reviews) in different sizes for general use. Buy better quality bits for any styles that you find yourself using most if you feel the need later on.
If you want to drill through thicker material, each step needs to be longer so it will exit the back side before the next step engages the front side of the material. However, long step bits are usually more of a hassle when working in tighter areas, so that's why most step drill bits don't have long steps.
If a step drill goes too large at the top end, the bit itself often will not fit down into the area where you want to drill a smaller hole.
If you want to drill thin sheet metal, you are better off with a step drill that has straight cutting edges instead of cutting edges that curve or slowly spiral around the bit. Straight cutting edges help the bit to better cut through thin material without the bit wanting to grab at or self-feed into the material.
If you want to be able to make custom sized holes in thin material, buy a step drill that's cone shaped or stepless. If you don't need to make custom sized holes, skip the cone shaped bits, because they are harder to stop at the right spot consistently if you are wanting to drill multiple holes of equal diameter.
If you want to enlarge existing holes in areas that have obstructions close behind, use a step bit that has a correctly sized large blunt cut end. Those can be expensive though, so that's why it is nice to have a couple cheap step bits on hand. If you use a cutoff wheel to remove the end of a cheap step bit for a custom one-time job, you will only be out a couple dollars instead of $20+.
I have probably 20 or so step bits. Cheap ones like the ones from HF as well as high quality brands. The cheap ones are more likely to go dull on the cutting edge, the expensive bits will stay sharp longer but will often eventually chip at the cutting edge. I prefer bits that go dull instead of chipping, so my selection leans a bit more towards the cheaper bits. I can resharpen a dull straight cut step bit a couple times pretty easily by using a Dremel or Foredom tool. You often have to grind away a lot of material to remove a chipped cutting edge, so a badly chipped higher quality bit is often not fixable. You have to either lean the bit side to side (while cutting by hand) to get it to cut through the chipped area or you throw it away.
Most people would be best served by picking up a couple cheap step bits (that still have good online reviews) in different sizes for general use. Buy better quality bits for any styles that you find yourself using most if you feel the need later on.
Last edited:
jayemm
Well-known member
Good advice above from the voice of experience. Learned a few things. AND for a good review of different brands of step bits, check out Projectfarm youtube review of them. That guy does some good reviews.
619DioFan
Well-known member
I wrap painters tape around mine just above where I need to stop. easy to see.Stopping at the correct step can be more difficult than expected. I mark the step above where I want to stop with sharpie, but this gets harder the more steps there are and the thinner they are.
And depending on the bit and what you're drilling, the steps may not be deep enough; for example making a mounting hole in thick-ish plastic.
One thing I forgot to mention, try to buy step drill bits that have 1/4" hex power bit style shanks if you want to do any hole drilling in tight or deeply recessed areas. The 1/4" hex shank won't be quite as strong as the shank on step bits with a 3/8" diameter round shank or a 3/8" diameter three sided shank, but 1/4" hex power bit shanks are more versatile overall. They can be easily locked into most of the various set screw spade bit extensions or quick change power bit extensions available to create a long shanked step bit as needed.
Last edited:
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Astro makes some nice ones: Option #1: 9445. Option #2: 9442. The 9442 is the better of the two as it's made from M2 High Speed Steel with a unique coating.
rk_tek
Well-known member
I'm not a power user of step bits, so my HF set has lasted for several years in both aluminum and steel up to 3/8" in thicker material I sometimes have to drill from both sides with a shallow step bit. My long step bit that goes from 1/8-1/2"? got quite dull on the 1/8" step, so I cut it off and use it for larger holes.
General consensus is
HF and cheapies are great bang for buck
Lennox is best, followed closely by any made in US/German/Swiss etc...
They are a consumable, hard to resharpen
The best option for thin gauge metals and plastics
HF and cheapies are great bang for buck
Lennox is best, followed closely by any made in US/German/Swiss etc...
They are a consumable, hard to resharpen
The best option for thin gauge metals and plastics
General consensus is
HF and cheapies are great bang for buck
Lennox is best, followed closely by any made in US/German/Swiss etc...
They are a consumable, hard to resharpen
The best option for thin gauge metals and plastics
I thought Diablo was the best.