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Step by step? Wolverine coatings

akatsuki

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
46
I have been planning on using Wolverine flaked coatings but man, they are proposing something like 4-5 coats on the flake page.

Let's assume I do a little minor wrenching on my motorcycle, plan on using the garage as a gym and may want to use rubber mats on top.
As I see it there are a bunch of questions:

1. Initial prep - I see some people acid washing, some people diamond grinding, shot-blasting, power-washing only...

2. Degreaser - if I don't see any obvious oil stains, should I still do this?

3. Water barrier - seems like there are a few options. Someone suggested a water vapor barrier underneath the concrete. Or there is stuff like Northern Industries Hydro-Seal 75 which can resist water vapor.

4. Initial primer coat - Is this separate from the Hydro-Seal? I plan on using Wolverine coatings, which BondTite 1101 vs 1503?

5. Base coat - Liquitile 1184

6. 2nd flake coat - Liquitile 1184 - this seems optional as well.

7. Flood coat - Endurashield 4104 - what is the flood coat for?

8. Sealer coat - EnduraShield 2254 or EnduraShield 4104 - which one?
 
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Shea

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,871
Location
California
The page you are looking at is showing all the different options for a variety of flake systems, some of which are for industrial use. Most commercial applications for garage floors consist of a primer coat, 100% solids epoxy color coat, optional color flakes, and then a clear coat or two depending on how much flakes are used.

Alpha Garage lists this type of system here: http://www.alphagarage.com/about/

I suggest contacting them to get your questions answered.
 
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FJ4FUN

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
628
Location
NorCal
I have been planning on using Wolverine flaked coatings but man, they are proposing something like 4-5 coats on the flake page.

Let's assume I do a little minor wrenching on my motorcycle, plan on using the garage as a gym and may want to use rubber mats on top.
As I see it there are a bunch of questions:

1. Initial prep - I see some people acid washing, some people diamond grinding, shot-blasting, power-washing only...

2. Degreaser - if I don't see any obvious oil stains, should I still do this?

3. Water barrier - seems like there are a few options. Someone suggested a water vapor barrier underneath the concrete. Or there is stuff like Northern Industries Hydro-Seal 75 which can resist water vapor.

4. Initial primer coat - Is this separate from the Hydro-Seal? I plan on using Wolverine coatings, which BondTite 1101 vs 1503?

5. Base coat - Liquitile 1184

6. 2nd flake coat - Liquitile 1184 - this seems optional as well.

7. Flood coat - Endurashield 4104 - what is the flood coat for?

8. Sealer coat - EnduraShield 2254 or EnduraShield 4104 - which one?



Akatsuki,

As Shea just noted, the system described on the Wolverine Coatings site is recommended for severe duty industrial applications which is Wolverine Coatings's typical customer base. The systems that we provide utilize Wolverine Coatings' industrial formulations but modify their systems to bring them inline with DIY heavy duty residential garage/workshop applications.

To address the questions that you have I offer the following:

1) We consider mechanical grinding to be the gold standard as far as prepping your floor goes. Chemical etch will work but we prefer grinding.

2) Degrease prior to grinding if you suspect any petroleum contamination. A simple water droplet test of any suspect areas will tell you if there is petroleum on the floor.

3) Now is a great time to conduct the plastic sheet tape down test and/or calcium chloride moisture test. Contact us directly to discuss specialty products to deal with any moisture condition that you discover after you have conducted these tests or are already aware of.

4) Prime coat = BondTite 1101

5) Base coat = LiquaTile 1184 (LiquaTile 1143 if no DecoFlake & Clear is used)

6) DecoFlake

7) Flood coat of BondTite 1115 only if full broadcast of DecoFlake to rejection is used (or you want that super deep gloss...). DecoFlakes broadcast to rejection will create a lot of voids which need to be filled prior to our EnduraShield hybrid-urethane clear coat being applied.

8) EnduraShield 2254 is the one. You may consider adding our SpheriTex traction additive as well. EnduraShield is extremely slippery when wet...

Hope this helps.
 
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