Sthil chain saws

[brucercolbert]

Any Sthil chain saw advocates out there ?

I have an older ( don't know how old, but guessing 20-30 years )
Sthil chain saw.
Been pulling like a madman with no luck.
Changed gas, cleaned carb, new plug and all that stuff.
Starts briefly then quits.
Tillitson carb is marked HL166A
Does anyone know the default settings for the "H" and "L"
adjustment screws on this carb ?

Thanks and regards,
Bruce R. Colbert
[email protected]

 

[moronmountain]

Well with new gas and plug, the next thing I look at is a burned top end.

 

[freeskier]

which model is it? the more we know the better

 

[Treeman]

the simple diagnostic procedure for any engine is to check for:

Fuel
Spark
Compression
Timing

You replaced the plug. Did you test it for spark? Pull plug out, but leave attached with threads touching a good ground (engine case). Pull on rope and watch for bright spark. If not, consider ignition wire and ignition system.

Fuel.....is plug wet? If not, consider carburator rebuild, rotted fuel line, fuel filter, bad carb to cyl. mounting (sucking air).

Compression...tough to measure, but upon pulling, there should be good resistance.

Timing....tough to explain without knowing what system you have.

CHECK the muffler! Often they plug up with carbon, causing back pressure and not allowing the saw to exhaust and/or pull fuel-air into saw.


Without any know carb settings, most Stihls will start at one turn open each. Then adjust according to standard procedure....idle speed, low adjust., high adjust.

Sometimes I pour a bit of mixed gas into the plug hole then attempt to start. It will start for a bit on this gas, and if there was a small blockage somewhere, it will sometimes get "sucked out" and the saw will run.

 

[willysrule]

the simple diagnostic procedure for any engine is to check for:

Fuel
Spark
Compression
Timing

You replaced the plug. Did you test it for spark? Pull plug out, but leave attached with threads touching a good ground (engine case). Pull on rope and watch for bright spark. If not, consider ignition wire and ignition system.

Fuel.....is plug wet? If not, consider carburator rebuild, rotted fuel line, fuel filter, bad carb to cyl. mounting (sucking air).

Compression...tough to measure, but upon pulling, there should be good resistance.

Timing....tough to explain without knowing what system you have.

CHECK the muffler! Often they plug up with carbon, causing back pressure and not allowing the saw to exhaust and/or pull fuel-air into saw.


Without any know carb settings, most Stihls will start at one turn open each. Then adjust according to standard procedure....idle speed, low adjust., high adjust.

Sometimes I pour a bit of mixed gas into the plug hole then attempt to start. It will start for a bit on this gas, and if there was a small blockage somewhere, it will sometimes get "sucked out" and the saw will run.

VERY good advise...

 

[Busted Bolts]

Tree man had some good advise, also the older saws like the 032 ran points which would be part of your spark diag, the new E10 fuel has a shelf life of 30 DAYS then phase separation begins (blend separating from the alcohol, and attracting moisture in bottom of tank) if you start from scratch, use fresh fuel, if you feel resistance while pulling rope slow with plug installed you have compression, if you remove air element and give a shot of start fluid or carb cleaner and runs then dies, then you have fuel delivery problem, varnished carb, collapsed or rotted lines, or dried diaphrams in carb. Like others noted go with each of the cycles to narrow down your problem. Also clean old saw dust and bar oil from all areas before opening up. Another area to check is at the exhaust port and spark arrestor at muffler, pull screen on muffler and see if light can be seen through if ok, then remove muffler and look at the port that the exhaust come out of the cylinder. If it looks closed up like a clogged artery then you must bring the piston to the top and use a sharpened piece of stiff plastic and chip away built up carbon. Do not allow to enter open cylinder, and do not use screw driver as this can scratch aluminum piston. Hope this helps and keep us up to date on your progress

 

[ibedayank]

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns from fully closed will get you in the ballpark on the carb.
Rebuild kits for that carb should be available from ace hardware... bring carb in with you
Ace Hardware is where i got the parts to get my SKIL chainsaw running it was made in 1969 ... yes i said SKIL not STHIL

 

[ibedayank]

Treeman you forgot... check wiring to killswitch and killswitch

 

[december45]

Ive got a 020 AV, ran perfectly for years then all of sudden no run... the fuel line from the tank to the carb went to heck and no fuel was getting to the carb... it was a huge pain to change but its back together running like new again.

 

[Scout Driver]

Clean the spark arrestor. Also, make absolutely sure that your choke is in the "full choke" position. My older Stihl requires the throttle to be squeezed wide open for the choke lever to be pushed to the fully closed position.

Scott

 

[brucercolbert]

Model is 08

 

[shotgunfatcat]

Ive got a 020 AV, ran perfectly for years then all of sudden no run... the fuel line from the tank to the carb went to heck and no fuel was getting to the carb... it was a huge pain to change but its back together running like new again.

+1, THIS HAPPENS OFTEN ON MINE.

Also the diaphram in the carb could have a pinhole in it.

 

[Greatbear]

I have an 034 that I bought at least 25 years ago, and an 017 that is about 20 years old or so. These get average use. The only recurring problem I have had with both of them is the spark arrestors and mufflers coking up. The carbs and fuel lines are all original. I've replaced bars, sprockets and chains, and the starter pawls and plugs every now and then. But both of these saws are the most solid performers I've ever had, and plan to keep for a long time to come.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Ive got a 020 AV, ran perfectly for years then all of sudden no run... the fuel line from the tank to the carb went to heck and no fuel was getting to the carb... it was a huge pain to change but its back together running like new again.

+2

The fact that it will start sometimes and then quit tells me either the fuel line is letting in air or the diaphragm is bad.