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stick build & insulation tips Please Thanks

nu guy ky

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Oct 28, 2007
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Hi all Great forum
Anyone have any ideals On the following

Going to build a 28 wide 30 deep
Reverse gable The Contractor said he
Would stick build it And Use 2x8 I was wondering
Is this going to be strong enough to span the 30 Without using
The Truss System ??

Also What is the most economical way to Insulate a block Garage
I was wondering About Blown in Insulation As it is being built >>>
ANY IDEALS thanks

Nu Guy
 
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PAToyota

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No way to span 30' using a 2x8...

Insulation in block is pretty worthless as you still have the thermal bridging through the block. Better to put rigid insulation on the outside and then put siding over it.
 
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nu guy ky

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thanks Ok How should this be Built ...

Nothing is in writing yet ... Now we did Talk about 28x28 as well
He did say If we went 28x30 he would do something Diff..

Sorry for the Stupid Questions ...If I knew I would not be here seeking help
Before I do this Thanks
 
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Steve in Mi

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What do the PLANS call for? If you don't have a plan (based on your needs) I think it's a tad early to have a contractor involved.
 

PAToyota

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As Steve says, what is your design?

There are a number of ways to span 28'~30' - trusses, steel beams, post and beam...

Personally, I went with steel beams to support the floor joists for my second floor so that I wouldn't have any posts in the middle of the garage to get in the way.
 

kbs2244

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I am confused!
First you say "stick built"
Then you ask about "insulating block walls."
Is this 2 different buildings?
Either way, I vote with PAT.
Insulate and siding on the outside of any block walls.
If you are planning any kind of "up stairs" on your stick built, and want to avoid interior posts, span the short direction with steel, and the lay wood joists crosswise on them.
If there is not going to be an "up staires" you can get 30 span trusses.
 
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nu guy ky

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Thanks sorry for this Mess maybe this will haelp a bit

28x30 5 inch monolith pour
Commercial Fiberglass added
Wire mess/ Rebar in footer and Corners
Reverse Gable ,1 36 inch entry door
On side, Two 12 x 8 over head doors
Two windows
Five Inch Gutters Vinyl wrap
8 inch Overhang On front and Rear
One foot over hang On each side
Brick Front

14 block high

2 foot apron with /additional 28 x 16

Side pour 3x3 for service door ...

Hmm That is what I have going
That is the plan as of now

NO second floor Not needed

Stick Built Yeah I knew after I posted
I had worded it wrong... Stick Built
I’m referring to Rafters I reckon You would call it
Ceiling Joist ..??????
Stick built compared to a truss system already made up to order
Hmm Dose that make any sense ???

I just was wondering About the 30 foot span

Hope the info above shows the plan and explains it a lil more ,
And The Insulating would be same Building Block
thanks again
 

IDASHO

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Moscow, Idaho
Stick built compared to a truss system already made up to order
Hmm Dose that make any sense ???

You mean hand built vs. trusses.

Id go trusses, no doubt.

Easier, and more than likely cheaper.

I just built my 24x30 with the trusses running the 30' direction.

Cheap and easy. Each truss cost me roughly $120 Thats a 6/12 pitch with 36' tails, and a healthy snow load.

September2_17.jpg
 

Krodad

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Iowa
I always have to put in my 2 cents on construction method...consider building with Insulating Concrete Forms, and you have a super strong system with the insulation already taken care of.

Go with the trusses for the roof.
 
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rick2752

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Feb 9, 2007
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Just curious, what did he qoute you on that building. I did almost all my own work on my 32x46. 2x4 walls, vinyl on 3 sides, brick front. 2- 16x8 overhead doors, 3 36 inch man doors and floor about 5 inches thick. Shingle roof. I figure I have right at 25k in mine right now with no interior work done yet, except electric and water.
 

boiler7904

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Definitely go with trusses. A good framing crew could set that entire roof in way less than a day and have most (maybe all) of the plywood on before you get home from work without too much trouble.

Depending on the roof pitch, you might want to consider attic trusses that will frame a room within their profile. Makes extra storage easy. The other option would be to use trusses that form a vaulted ceiling to give more ceiling height without increasing the building height.

As far as the block wall goes, there is no good way to insulate a single wythe wall unless you want to add pressure treated wood furring strips or light gauge metal "z" framing members to the inside with 1 1/2" rigid foam in between them. Since foam is flammable, you'd have to cover it with drywall or some other covering. If you were going with a brick veneer, you could put the rigid foam in cavity between the brick and block provided that it is a closed cell foam.

Just curious, why 14 blocks high? That gives you a masonry height of 9'-4". Why not go with 15 blocks and a simple 10'-0" ceiling (10'-1 1/2" when you count the wood nailer they'll need for truss or rafter bearing). Then if you're going that height, consider going high enough for a two or four post lift.
 

GT350RC

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Location
Ithaca, NY
I went with trusses as well - I would definitely recommend them. They're engineered to withstand the load.

I've got 26' x 26' with 12/12 storage trusses. They cost me about $200 each, but they're built like a brick sh_thouse. 2x10 bottom chord, 2x6 top chord, with a 12' storage area upstairs.
 
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nu guy ky

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guys Thanks for all the help On This i meet with the Contractor again Thursday .. To go over a few more details ...

One More Question Oh We are going with The Trusses We had talked about a 28x28 That is were The 2x8 Built on site came From..But I ask him today
Beings we are going with a 28x30 What are you going to use? I Said I don't think the 2x8's are gonna work.. He said NO We will need to go with a truss.

Oh the ? Is did You guys Place theM ON 24 CENTERS OR 16??
I'm not going to a lot of storage But later on would like To drywall .
So if placed on a 24 center do you think that would be strong enough to hold The dry wall with No problems


Thanks for all the input
 

boiler7904

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24" centers is standard.

So is using 5/8 sheetrock for the lid.

:+1:

Trusses at 16" o.c. is overkill unless you plan on hanging a lot of heavy stuff from the bottom chord of the trusses. Even then, the truss company or engineer should be able to design that load into 24" o.c. trusses. You'll need the 5/8" sheetrock to span 24" without sagging.
 
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nu guy ky

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Thanks Guys We Well hope tho get this started Next week ..
He just left Going to see about puling the permits Fri..

And He said The same 24 OC is going to be strong enough to hang drywall
and storage ....

And the Total was 18.700
 
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