Have a new garage under construction that is 24x26 with full floor attic above. The original plan was stick build with a center post but I was concerned that post would be a nuisance. I asked about options to eliminate the post and the builder recommended TJI's at an additional cost of $650 over the original quote (we're in the rural mideast). I understand they are more expensive but do they also save on labor costs? Not much experience to base this on so I'm wondering does the quote seem reasonable?
Stick build versus TJI
- Thread starter lqchar
- Start date
gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
WELL, worth the $650 to not have a post. JMO
Majordisorder
Well-known member
To save labor, maybe use trusses that incorporate a floor system. Even 24' is a long way to span in residential construction and a floor that meets minimal code might be springy.
How about a glue lam and break the joists on that. Might be nice to have a overhead beam for a chain hoist.
How about a glue lam and break the joists on that. Might be nice to have a overhead beam for a chain hoist.
readhead
Well-known member
Bargain. Write a check. That is exactly how I did my garage.
DougWil
Well-known member
Is this a 2 story garage?
If not, can't you use attic trusses?
If not, can't you use attic trusses?
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
I used wood I Beams on my 24x28 with no columns/posts. For my configuration I could not have posts in the way. I also have a full floor above (family room). The floor is not springy at all. It is quite solid in fact. That is how they market some of the I-Beams (Quite Floor). Well worth $650 if you ask me. They do save some labor but they are pretty pricey so that sounds like a bargain to me.
If you go with trusses at this point, since you are already under construction and assuming the materials are already purchased, they will add a lot of cost. Plus the ones I have seen you loos space above because of the truss. I have a completely full floor above mine. Then a 5/12 pitch vaulted which makes for a nice large open space.
If you go with trusses at this point, since you are already under construction and assuming the materials are already purchased, they will add a lot of cost. Plus the ones I have seen you loos space above because of the truss. I have a completely full floor above mine. Then a 5/12 pitch vaulted which makes for a nice large open space.
I agree that's it's reasonable. Fyi, if you're going to be doing any of the work after it's framed (i.e., plumbing, electrical, routing air lines, etc.) check out what's allowed for cutting holes or shifting them (that's for the plumbing drop). I know you said "attic" but I've come across a few folks that didn't plan/communicate their intentions and it lead to some monetary consequences down the road.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
Mine had knockouts in them for pipes, electrical etc so you knock out where ever you need to. No need to drill anything. I had heat only upstairs and we used the plastic flex/crimp stuff so no need to shift any either.
If I remember right though they can be sized so they are approved for 24 OC. But if you still frame at 16 you have room to play if needed. Or you can just use two where your drops are so you are under 16 oc in that particular area.
If I remember right though they can be sized so they are approved for 24 OC. But if you still frame at 16 you have room to play if needed. Or you can just use two where your drops are so you are under 16 oc in that particular area.
csp
Well-known member
There will be a little bit of labor savings if the truss joists are delivered in the correct length. Then there's the little bit of labor savings not framing up the center post related stuff.
The lack of the post would be worth the expense all by itself for me.
The lack of the post would be worth the expense all by itself for me.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
ABSOLUTELY! I have a 90 degree turn from the driveway into the garage and very limited space since it is also on a hill and the driveway is only 4 feet from the property line. So I don't have the option of making wide swings to avoid posts. I wouldn't be able to get half of what I do through my door if I had posts in the middle of the shop.
rburke65
Well-known member
Worth it. OR....you can build it yourself and save ALL the labor!
Glad to hear the consensus was it is worth it!Question for maxpower hd. I may not understand correctly what a 5/12 pitch roof is but wouldn't that make your attic only 5' high at center point with a 24' width? I'm planning to go with 8' or 10' at center and I'm assuming the 10' will give me more usable floor space. If my thinking is off, please straighten me out. Thanks.
csp
Well-known member
Pretty sure that maxpower has a second story with a 5/12 pitch vaulted ceiling.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
Falcon67
Well-known member
Can't speak for a 2nd story but you should avoid a center post if at all possible.
justanengineer
Well-known member
JMO but $650 buys one helluva lot of lumber to do this with traditional stick framing and at 24' you're not really spanning any great distance. TJIs are one way of doing this but are an expensive option IMHO.
jbwilkins
Well-known member
#2 SYP is no longer rated to span 24' since it was derated a few years back.....you now would have to go with #1 at 12" OC for a 30 lb live load....or go machine rated lumber....neither is easy to find and would probably be a significant price jump.....
My garage is 32x24, and I went with 16" deep TJIs on 16" centers. I got about a 40lb live load rating with this resulting in a very stiff floor. No bounce. Another benefit of TGIs is that they are consistently very straight resulting in a very flat floor. You could not get that flat with lumber.