Stick Build

[rac]

Need some idea or pics on building roof.Trusses just too hard to put up by myself and would like to gain foot or two above walls.started building last year around Nov. Son inlaw and step son was going to help.Wife said to give them a chance.I raised three 12 ft. walls by June.Hurt back at work in Aug.Been setting around watching lumber twist during all the rain we have been getting.So now cut walls down to 8 ft.so I can handle by myself.Enough of that. Building is 28 wide x 32 long. Trying to picture how to run 32 ft ridge beam.I could go with 1 post 6x6 and double 2x12s 16 ft long. or 2 posts with 10 ft and 12 ft. 2x12 doubled. been looking for pics with vaulting ceiling with braces half way up.I think they call them collar ties.This would give me an extra 2 ft. because peak of roof will be 5 ft. Back to trusses can't get them within 80 ft.of build where it's at.Just too far to drag.Any ideas?Thanks.

 

[bucs012]

This is all I have. 50x30, 9 foot ceiling.

 

[kbs2244]

These are flat ceiling truss plans you can build your self.

http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mwps_dis/mwps_web/tr_plans.html

This all about strong construction for high stress areas.
But page 25 has a good PIC of collar beams raised higher then the top of the wall.
(BTW, this is a very detailed book that will answer a lot of framing questions.
It is a 100 plus page PDF file, so be ready.)

http://www.awc.org/pdf/wfcm2001workbookandappendix.pdf

 

[twostory]

. Back to trusses can't get them within 80 ft.of build where it's at.Just too far to drag.Any ideas?Thanks.

Might be time to hire a framing crew to finish the framing.

Stop at a construction sight to see if anyone want to work Saturday/Sunday for cash?

 

[rac]

If had the money to hire I would have finished garage by now.Was building with overtime money but now work (Delta) cut overtime.

 

[metal1313]

i have the answer...beer and friends. or just some really good friends. you'd be suprised at what you can get people to do for a few brews. im getting a bunch of my legal age friends(im only 22) to help me re-roof my house.

 

[billspit]

Be sure the work is done before the beer is tapped.

 

[Falcon67]

>Trying to picture how to run 32 ft ridge beam.
Two way - one, build perches at both ends to hold the ridge at height then add the rafters - or two, don't use a 32' beam, use two 16'ers and splice in the middle.

 

[rwhite692]

Are you really sure you won't consider (scissor) trusses? They really aren't that expensive nor hard to put up....as to transporting them to the job site, maybe hire a few day laborers to carry them to the site for you?

This is 10 feet at the walls and 13'6" at the interior peak, garage is 24 ft wide x 36 deep.

 

[tcianci]

You don't need a ridge beam or any poles if you want to construct a typical stick framed gable roof. A stick framed gable roof transfers all of its load to the outside walls of the structure. There seems to be a tremendous amount of confusion about this topic, as it is a question asked over and over again on GJ. Some of the confusion is in terminology... stick framed roof assemblies typically utilize a ridge BOARD, not a ridge BEAM. A ridge board simply facilitates the construction of the frame and is not needed for any structural purpose, it's just a place to nail the tops of the rafters while you're framing the building. Collar ties, as you noted must be installed to oppose the spreading force applied to the outside walls. You have cut your wall height to 8 feet but want an additional 2 feet of ceiling height, you would run your collar ties at 10 feet and your interior ceiling would have a "break" along each wall which would present itself as an angled ceiling section. Collar ties that run at the height of the top plate of the wall are called ceiling joists. In a shallow pitch application on a small building, ceiling joists may suffice as collar ties. Typically, when ceiling joists are used, an additional set of collar ties are installed about a third of the way down from the ridge on every other bay.
A ridge beam, on the other hand, is a structural element meant to carry the load of the roof to both gable walls of the building and the rafters are in turn "hung" from them. This type of construction is used when you want a "cathedral" ceiling type of structure.
There are any number of books available at your library and at HD and Lowes than can explain the framing details fully.
The good news is that you do not need a ridge beam or ridge poles, all you need is to develop a rafter pattern, cut your rafters and use a ridge board. You will probably end up with 2x8 rafters, use a 2x8 for your ridge board and hold the bottom of the ridge board even with the bottom of your plumb cut of the rafters, this will leave the top of the ridge board recessed from the tops of your rafters and this detail forms the ideal space for air flow to your ridge vent. Good luck!

 

[ihredo4]

You don't need a ridge beam or any poles if you want to construct a typical stick framed gable roof. A stick framed gable roof transfers all of its load to the outside walls of the structure. There seems to be a tremendous amount of confusion about this topic, as it is a question asked over and over again on GJ. Some of the confusion is in terminology... stick framed roof assemblies typically utilize a ridge BOARD, not a ridge BEAM. A ridge board simply facilitates the construction of the frame and is not needed for any structural purpose, it's just a place to nail the tops of the rafters while you're framing the building. Collar ties, as you noted must be installed to oppose the spreading force applied to the outside walls. You have cut your wall height to 8 feet but want an additional 2 feet of ceiling height, you would run your collar ties at 10 feet and your interior ceiling would have a "break" along each wall which would present itself as an angled ceiling section. Collar ties that run at the height of the top plate of the wall are called ceiling joists. In a shallow pitch application on a small building, ceiling joists may suffice as collar ties. Typically, when ceiling joists are used, an additional set of collar ties are installed about a third of the way down from the ridge on every other bay.
A ridge beam, on the other hand, is a structural element meant to carry the load of the roof to both gable walls of the building and the rafters are in turn "hung" from them. This type of construction is used when you want a "cathedral" ceiling type of structure.
There are any number of books available at your library and at HD and Lowes than can explain the framing details fully.
The good news is that you do not need a ridge beam or ridge poles, all you need is to develop a rafter pattern, cut your rafters and use a ridge board. You will probably end up with 2x8 rafters, use a 2x8 for your ridge board and hold the bottom of the ridge board even with the bottom of your plumb cut of the rafters, this will leave the top of the ridge board recessed from the tops of your rafters and this detail forms the ideal space for air flow to your ridge vent. Good luck!

+1 What he said. He used much better terms than I could come up with. But it has been a long time since I did any stick building too.

 

[Matti]

I don't see how you can construct any roof with a bad back and no helpers. With a proper ridge beam you will need a crane and an engineered beam which won't be cheap. All that stick building is not going to be easy on the body either. I tried to get some local truss builders to make a raised tie truss but they couldn't do it with their software. Perhaps the snow loads preclude that design up here. Trusses are the strongest and easiest to construct IMHO. You're still going to need 3 or 4 guys for the better part of a day. Good luck!

 

[twostory]

I recently rented a 24 ft "material jack" at Sunbelt. Cost $64/day. I got it for the weekend for a one day rental. It is like a manual forklift on casters.

I lifted 22ft (200#) lvl beam with ease. It would work well for raising trusses and positioning them.

Here is a picture of what I used: