doing it myself...15x22x12' high, 1 9x8 door, concrete floor, regardless of which one I was thinking of using corner post metal 4x4x12' tall for strength....which would be cheaper to do, and what do you think of my idea for the corner post, also roof metal on metal build and could be either wood with asphalt shingles or could use metal on the stick build.....thanks.
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stick or metal build which is cheapest
- Thread starter lt1driver
- Start date
dreamingmuscle
Well-known member
One I'd go 16 x 24 just so the plywood and metal panels break even. The metal post would be over kill BTW.
But I think we need more info on the buildings long range plans. Heat A/C insulation and so on. A location would also be nice.
Also are you talking a 100% metal building or just metal siding?
But I think we need more info on the buildings long range plans. Heat A/C insulation and so on. A location would also be nice.
Also are you talking a 100% metal building or just metal siding?
Last edited:
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
I agree with the suggestion to go to a size that allows the full use of materials. Remember, the size is the outside of the building, what is known as the "building line", never inside dimensions.
Unless you are working on motorcycles, smart cars, or Trabants, you should consider making the door larger. 8 ft wide is a squeeze for most vehicles, and full size trucks would be tight, and duallies won't fit. I would not want anything less than a 10x10.
Reinventing the wheel, with something unusual such as the corner posts you suggest, is probably a waste of time and money. There are proven construction techniques for both steel and wood, and you probably should stick to them. For a regular steel building that size, it will be columns and trusses of C channel, and it will be quite strong. For wood, the corners will be doubled or tripled (or more) two bys, either 2x4 or 2x6. You also might consider the steel structures that are similar to the carport structures, but usually feature more steel and strength, especially in the roof. They are built with 2x2 thinwall tubing.
Charles
Unless you are working on motorcycles, smart cars, or Trabants, you should consider making the door larger. 8 ft wide is a squeeze for most vehicles, and full size trucks would be tight, and duallies won't fit. I would not want anything less than a 10x10.
Reinventing the wheel, with something unusual such as the corner posts you suggest, is probably a waste of time and money. There are proven construction techniques for both steel and wood, and you probably should stick to them. For a regular steel building that size, it will be columns and trusses of C channel, and it will be quite strong. For wood, the corners will be doubled or tripled (or more) two bys, either 2x4 or 2x6. You also might consider the steel structures that are similar to the carport structures, but usually feature more steel and strength, especially in the roof. They are built with 2x2 thinwall tubing.
Charles
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Is this building going on a slab with footings or what? That will have an impact on the best construction method.
Herb67SS
Well-known member
Don't know where u are located but I just did a 28x36 bldg. post and beam with metal skin was cheapest on my area. Site prep is important when doing slab on grade but if done correctly (mine was), is plenty sufficient. It was about 25% to 35% cheaper. can much cheaper but I upgraded a bunch of stuff.
chickenhauler
Well-known member
Any time I crunched the numbers, stick framed with smart panel won. OSB and shingles are typically cheaper, but I went 4' oc with my trusses, and metal was just easier. If I remember correctly, it was about a wash price wise.
Jose G
Well-known member
you should consider block construction with outside insulation (urethane), no need to finish the interior, lot of time saved, etc...
15`feet isnt gonna cut it. i would say 20x24 for a working place, you need tables, tools and they take place...
15`feet isnt gonna cut it. i would say 20x24 for a working place, you need tables, tools and they take place...
camarotoolman
Banned
Going that tall, I would use metal stud framing. Wood studs that long,that are straight would be hard to get. Metal frame imo is easier than wood, all you need is a chop saw, some vise grip clamps, and a screw gun. IF you can, I would go bigger.
texas and 15x22 x 12' high is max I can do by city codes, 5-6" slab for 2 post and door to my current 20x20x8"tall ceiling attached garage (can't go higher)...tools, benches etc. except for lift and compressor will be in new garage next to 20x20 carport. want to insulate and will run a bullet style kerosene heater in winter. sorry left out details. good point on door but biggest vehicle will be my 1/2 ton ext cab chevy truck.