Stick weld question

[jproaster]

So had a few minutes with a stick welder today.
Wondering how many inches a good weld would be on flat steel using up a6011stick.

Thanks

 

[Rogue1987]

A lot is going to depend on application. Thickness of metal, size of rod, that sorta thing. Without that information we would just be guessing.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Millwrong]

Well that would depend on the rod diameter, rod length, and the fillet size you're trying to put down. I'd expect about 6-7" of weld from a 14" 1/8" 6011 trying to put down a 1/4" bead in the flat position.

 

[jproaster]

Sorry I don't really know much. I would guess the rod I used this evening was the 14" 1/8 6011 as you wrote mwrong.

This was my very first time trying to weld. Just trying to get the hang of it on some scrap.

I'm inquiring for a good weld length approximation in inches of a one stick weld to get my hands used to the shrinking rod.

Thanks.

Didn't know I was going to try stick. Vids I've watched tig, mig and even oxy/acet. But someone offered today to teach stick.

 

[BryceW]

You don't want to try and deposit a predetermined amount of rod. Instead you want to keep your eyes on the puddle and let it tell you how fast to feed. It feels awkward at first and you'll find yourself constantly long arcing but after a few (hundred) rods it becomes second nature.

 

[jproaster]

Thanks Bryce. Just watched a few vids; told me the same thing.

 

[MJD1]

Typically a bead about half the rod length. Many variables, but if your much longer or shorter, changing electrode size is usually a better option.

 

[gearhead1]

You don't want to try and deposit a predetermined amount of rod. Instead you want to keep your eyes on the puddle and let it tell you how fast to feed. It feels awkward at first and you'll find yourself constantly long arcing but after a few (hundred) rods it becomes second nature.

+1 You want to watch the puddle and let that be your gage while you're welding, not how long the bead was when you're done.

Like everything else, experience is the best teacher. After a while you will be able to select a rod and amperage setting based on the thickness of material you're welding. You'll also be able to control the puddle and have a good looking bead.

 

[bczygan]

Your best bet is to take a course.

There is so very much to learn!

I'm taking one at the community college right now.

Bill

 

[sberry]

Sorry I don't really know much. I would guess the rod I used this evening was the 14" 1/8 6011 as you wrote mwrong.

This was my very first time trying to weld. Just trying to get the hang of it on some scrap.

I'm inquiring for a good weld length approximation in inches of a one stick weld to get my hands used to the shrinking rod.

Thanks.

Didn't know I was going to try stick. Vids I've watched tig, mig and even oxy/acet. But someone offered today to teach stick.

If you want to be a mans man there is no substitute for learning stick skills good enough to pass some welding tests. I have seen a couple of good self taught 6013 guys.

You have 7018AC today which can be near foolproof but verts take a bit more work than DC. Some of the stick skills, 10 root and 18 covers are hard to fake, kind of weeds out some operators. If I was a young guy and was intent on working in the trades would really benefit from strong stick skills,
so easy to move sideways for work and so noticeable. Torch cut, stick weld.
Great for a hobby too. But for the newly retired wants to take up hobby and maintenance welding in a home shop they invented the 200 wire feed for you. I am a career welder, it is slightly different and I have a collection of stuff,,, but truth be told for Joe Suburb the compact feeder is the ticket for auto/garden/art, build with the grandkids type stuff. I can and dam near do everything I do with a machine that class.
Even stuff I do other ways I could do most of it with that if its all I had. My neighbor is a journeyman welder, got the pickup, the plow the trailer and hasn't been here in 15 years since he got a 175.

 

[sberry]

I got a couple buds, don't know squat about welding cept on their 180 and manage quite good. They make sound welds and some better than a lot of "professionals".They don't care about welding other than the utility value for the most part and want to build and fix some stuff, the intent isn't to become career welders.
I know a guy who retired, bought a 211 and a Dynasty. Got a few hours on the 211 and a few minutes on the Dynasty. Found out that the little feeder is what really did the work.
While you can run lots of rods with stick its rather rare except for a little nickel for the most part. The reason is to switch between 2 techniques really with common steel, whip and pause and drag/stringer and weave. This one is overhead, 6011, 3/16 or 1/4 no bevel, gap fit. Its highly magnified but,,, clamped to bench, reach under and make complete fusion in single pass.
I think the second pic is the backside. With a little more practice and discipline could improve on the consistency but these were a lesson.

 

[sberry]

This was a whip and pause job. I found 10# of old 6010 that wanted to fingernail some but square cut fit up on used pipe about 3/16 wall, 6 inch and as I recall about 6 to 8 rods per joint depending on fit at about 80% fill on most of it.
As crude as this looks it was direct buried with no test and no leaks, single pass, very fast and mostly welded in position with very little rolling. After it weathers and rusts a little it puts it in better perspective and it looks pretty good. Very little grinding in the fit up, melt thru where it needs it and stack rod in the gap where it needs that, sometimes during the same rod.

 

[BD1]

If you grab the rod half way down and set in holder it will help with control. Set in holder at desired length and roll or move for coating to fall off to bare rod like original end.
A good auto dark helmet is amazing way to learn. Bright welding area really helps too.

 

[bczygan]

If you grab the rod half way down and set in holder it will help with control. Set in holder at desired length and roll or move for coating to fall off to bare rod like original end.
A good auto dark helmet is amazing way to learn. Bright welding area really helps too.

Auto dark helmet set at 10!

You could also just take some HD wire cutters and cut the rod in half and use some pliers to expose the metal on one end. Result is 2 shorter rods.

I'm about to take some supplemental lighting into class! The booth is too dark.

Bill

 

[jproaster]

Thanks for sharing some good, common sense fellas. It's looking promising for time with a welder...as pic will show. If by some chance I can swing a class, I will. Welding is pretty cool...and handy

Gift from a friend. Just needs a new plug.

 

[sberry]

1/8 6011, 3/32 7018AC and 1/8 7018AC. If you can learn on that you will feel like a super freakin hero on the DC version. Depending on the area and market look for the DC version, sell and trade up.

 

[eaglefan1]

I was a union diver and welded for 10yrs with them. Moved, and got into the pipefitters local for 8yrs. Someone mention experience is the best teacher, absolutely true. Classes or apprenticeships get you going, but they can't duplicate everything you will see in the field.

There are many types of "Welders". From backyard guys, power plants, nuclear plants, chip plants, etc. Some guys can pass the simple welding tests but when they hit the nukes its a whole different ballgame. The "Sombrero" test is always interesting in the nukes. Venture out to the chip plants and its a different ballgame all together. Nuke plants and chip plants tests will weed out the ones that shouldn't be there.
With all of that said, only experience can teach that level stuff. You could take the same test in your garage, but there is no pressure on you. Drive 1500 miles across the country and then take the tests. If you bust out you go home with a days pay and hope the hall can find you another place to work. That pressure can/will effect some guys.
Oh, you will never ever see a 6010 rod in the nukes I worked at. If they caught you with one, your gone

 

[jproaster]

If I ever did want to be an old (56yo now) welder, I'm already in the right place. Some of my best friends are nuke guys. I live in the heart of TVA- Watts Bar is 30 minutes north and Sequoya is 30 minutes south.

No. I want to be competent in whatever I find myself interested. Learning stick first to "get into the fire."

Lesson 2:

 

[jproaster]

Forgot to mention that I need to put a new powercord and plug on the gifted welder.

Lowes has a $35 plug for Lincoln welders. I need to know the correct wire size. I have some solid 6 wire- kinda stiff though.

thanks.

 

[sberry]

The machine came with a 12. If you make one use 10. A plug, 6 50 P is about 10$ or so.

 

[sberry]

Right, no 6010. But,, did see 11 on a nuke. 3/32 on dcrp, for a sheet metal company named Zack. Was used on galvanized duct work.

 

[jproaster]

Thanks for $ savings on the plug.
I'm assuming your wire number 10 is referring to #10 stranded?

Thanks.

 

[sberry]

10 cord.

 

[welder4956]

Lesson 2:

My old boss used to tell me that "if you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough."

I bet no one has to tell you when to wear long sleeves after that!

 

[jproaster]

My old boss used to tell me that "if you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough."

I bet no one has to tell you when to wear long sleeves after that!

Amen to that!

 

[byoungblood]

Amen to that!

Your local welding shop should have some pull on sleeves or an inexpensive welding jacket to keep that from happening again. I decided it would be a good idea to practice welding for about 30 minutes in a pair of shorts. I didn't catch a spark, but from about the knee down I looked like a lobster!

 

[cbacres]

Thanks for sharing some good, common sense fellas. It's looking promising for time with a welder...as pic will show. If by some chance I can swing a class, I will. Welding is pretty cool...and handy

Gift from a friend. Just needs a new plug.

This machine is all you'll really need, with the exception of getting a DC like Berry said. The Lincoln is what I grew up on and have melted hundreds of pounds of rod on one.

Also used 6011 on the AC machine.

 

[cbacres]

Amen to that!

All f the welders at work wear denim long sleeves.

I've been doing the same for years and they work fine. I do have a pair of weldeing sleeves for when doing overhead.

 

[bczygan]

When you first start to learn something new, you don't know what you don't know.

You find a teacher, instructor, mentor, and they begin to show you what you don't know.

As you learn, the more you know, and the less you don't know and the more you know about what you don't know.

Bill

 

[brownbagg]

get rid of the 6011 rod, its a deep penteration rod but an ugly welding rod, its easier with a 7018 on a dc rig, but if you really want have fun, get a 6024 rod

 

[Mgdoug3]

I disagree with the 6011 being an ugly rod. If you're good with the whip and pause, it looks like you're stacking dimes. I use 6011 and 7018 almost exclusively.

 

[jproaster]

Thanks for sharing experiences, suggestions, etc.

I took the back off the gifted machine...which needs a new cord. I bought a new plug 250v w/ two straight blades and ground. Lowes didn't have the stranded cord I need; plan to search that out Monday at contractor supply places. However, I do have a connector question.

Does it matter which stranded wire of the power cord is hooked to the lugs of the welder? I noticed the black wire of original cord was on left hand lug; white on right; ground to the side of box. But I don't have the original plug to know which wire (black or white) was connected to which plug blade.

And, can I make the cord 15-20 feet? I plan to move the welder outside for jobs.

Thank much.
John

 

[sberry]

With 10 or better you can make it longer. It doesn't matter which hot is black or white.
It is a lot cheaper to use cord and move the machine. It's preferable by me anyway to have lead on it. But,,, secondary lead is rather expensive especially new for the hobby type but for busy work it's worth it for speed and convenience. I even have a piece for my little Maxstar, I like to hop on projects and many moves were tedious, even though it is light it's 2 leads and the cord with the machine under foot. I am so used to a long stinger from decades of this it's awkward not to have it.
I have 65 ft stinger and 50 ground (work). I actually have mine on a look of sorts, 2 stingers and common ground, benches, building steel, extensions for reach outside the door.
I thick pic 2 is 7018AC.

 

[jproaster]

Thank you sberry. I'll be hunting my cord tomorrow; and if I practice enough...be happy for welds half as nice as pic #2.

 

[sberry]

The machine can do that.

 

[trainer]

I think 7014's are a good choice for an AC machine in a home shop. They are good for a beginner because they are easy to strike and maintain an arc.

I prefer them over 7018AC because I don't weld a lot and 7014s are easier to store.
My machine is an old Lincoln AC180s.

 

[sberry]

I had a 180. I burned both on it. A lot of the 7018AC. I like it better than 14 as the puddle is clearer and less tendency to pinhole. It's mechanical properties are a bit better.

 

[jproaster]

Wired up the welder tonight.
Installing outlet tomorrow.
Get some clean metal and the different rods you fellas are talking about.
: )