Before even sorting i know its the bottom of the barrel stihl weed eater but I inherited. Looking to add a different head for trimming small brush / samplings under 1in from my crp. Any recommendations on which head/ style head to look at buying
Stihl fs55rc
- Thread starter Reit38
- Start date
My Old Tools
Well-known member
Also available in other brands, but they are all the same.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I am not sure why someone recommended a speedfeed head, evey with thick .105 line its not going to do much to saplings.
I use a brush knife from stihl. There is a cup, drive washer, and nut needed and it does not take too long to swap from a line head to the brush blade although now I have a kombi so I just change over. The blade works will for the occasional sapling under an inch and thick woody brambles, wild grape vines and such. I think the FS55 is a brush cutter with the kick back bar on it isn't it?
I use a brush knife from stihl. There is a cup, drive washer, and nut needed and it does not take too long to swap from a line head to the brush blade although now I have a kombi so I just change over. The blade works will for the occasional sapling under an inch and thick woody brambles, wild grape vines and such. I think the FS55 is a brush cutter with the kick back bar on it isn't it?
finn
Well-known member
That’s my understanding. No handlebars and the dealer won’t swap in a brush cutting blade.I am not sure why someone recommended a speedfeed head, evey with thick .105 line its not going to do much to saplings.
I use a brush knife from stihl. There is a cup, drive washer, and nut needed and it does not take too long to swap from a line head to the brush blade although now I have a kombi so I just change over. The blade works will for the occasional sapling under an inch and thick woody brambles, wild grape vines and such. I think the FS55 is a brush cutter with the kick back bar on it isn't it?
With handlebars and it’s no problem to install the blade.
This from my Stihl / Husqvarna dealer.
My local dealer (unfortunately no longer in business) wouldn't sell a blade kit if the trimmer didn't have handlebars. Now all one had to do was lie as no proof was required. Not an issue for me as I didn't even consider a trimmer without handlebars.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Handle bars are not required for the grass/brush blades with sharpened edges. Just the kick back bar, or barrier bar as stihl calls it. A FS55c should have one.
Handle bars are required for the saw blades with chiseled teeth do they require the handle bars but the FS 55 isn't rated for those (power/robustness) even with handle bars. Only the bigger brush cutters such as the FS91R and larger recommend the circular saw blades
Example of a larger saw (FS 111R) with chisel tooth blades needing handle bars.
Handle bars are required for the saw blades with chiseled teeth do they require the handle bars but the FS 55 isn't rated for those (power/robustness) even with handle bars. Only the bigger brush cutters such as the FS91R and larger recommend the circular saw blades
Example of a larger saw (FS 111R) with chisel tooth blades needing handle bars.
Codyboy
Well-known member
I bought a Stihl saw blade for my 56. No handlebars, cheap weedeater.
Why does the dealer need to install it?
Unscrew the normal string head, put saw blade on it.
They are left hand threaded.
You have to buy the kit to adapt it too. Cup, washer, nut.
The dealer did stress that he is NOT suppose to sell it to me. I said well ok you don't know that I don't have a handlebar machine as well as the 56.
It works great! 2" yaupon no problems.
Codyboy
Well-known member
If it's inherited the owner probably took it off.
I took mine off on my 56. It did nothing anyway and was in the way when you turned the trimmer sideways.
I just went through this with a 56 with the same requirements. Dealer wouldn't sell me anything more than a "grass blade" as my cutter wasn't "rated" for anymore more. I acquired the tri-blade deal and it works fantastic.
The concern supposedly comes from the lack of solid shaft in the cheaper brush cutters as they're cable driven a prone to breaking? Who knows, it was a cheap unit and works great!
The concern supposedly comes from the lack of solid shaft in the cheaper brush cutters as they're cable driven a prone to breaking? Who knows, it was a cheap unit and works great!
Firebrick43
Well-known member
It does something.
If in your swinging the trimmer side to side and you come across a hard object like a steel pipe or ground rod the trimmer can come back at you violently. Since many are not built like Alan Richardson nor keep a death grip on the handles it can come out of their hands and the blades hit their feet.
The bar catches the operator in the hip to arrest the kickback.
Thanks for explaining what this bar is actually for, but I still think it wouldn't do much.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
They kick back worse. That is why handle bars are required
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Why wouldn’t it? Do you push the trimmer away from your hip to the side 6” or more?
I have experienced a mild kickback when a half burried cultivator shovel a farmer lost in the past worked its way up. The bar caught me right in the hip working exactly as designed.
I hold my trigger hand by my side like everyone else I have seen.