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Stihl MS 150 CE
- Thread starter johninct
- Start date
Sjfab
Well-known member
Spring for the 201. You won't regret it.
Spring for the 201. You won't regret it.
Can you be more specific why the 201 would be better for me? I am not worried about a little extra cost , I am only going to be cutting brush and maybe a 6" tree here and there. I have a mile of fence line I need to trim back. I have a bigger saw that weighs 17 lbs and any weight savings would be important to me. Thanks!!
Sjfab
Well-known member
Can you be more specific why the 201 would be better for me? I am not worried about a little extra cost , I am only going to be cutting brush and maybe a 6" tree here and there. I have a mile of fence line I need to trim back. I have a bigger saw that weighs 17 lbs and any weight savings would be important to me. Thanks!!
I bought the 193 a few years ago because I wanted a smaller saw, it works fine but I used a buddies 201 and it will cut circles around the 193. I've since sold my 193 and bought the 201. For the price difference between the 150 and 201 I'd pay the extra and get a better saw. The 201 holds more oil and gas and also has almost another extra HP.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
I think you really missed the point of his post. He's not looking for more power - he's just cutting brush and the occasional small tree. He's looking for lighter weight.I bought the 193 a few years ago because I wanted a smaller saw, it works fine but I used a buddies 201 and it will cut circles around the 193. I've since sold my 193 and bought the 201. For the price difference between the 150 and 201 I'd pay the extra and get a better saw. The 201 holds more oil and gas and also has almost another extra HP.
The 150 CE is 2 pounds lighter than the 201. 2 pounds is a huge difference if you're carrying something a mile.
Sjfab
Well-known member
I think you really missed the point of his post. He's not looking for more power - he's just cutting brush and the occasional small tree. He's looking for lighter weight.
The 150 CE is 2 pounds lighter than the 201. 2 pounds is a huge difference if you're carrying something a mile.
If all you want is light weight, then the 150 is probably the saw for you. I think that saw is underpowered and if you plan on tackling 6" trees. You will wish you spent the extra $100
Bryan Burns
Well-known member
Try an ECHO CS-2511T! We just released it to dealers yesterday and its the lightest saw in its class. I can hold it with my pinkie finger.
ECHO Launches Lightest Top-Handle Chain Saw in North America
ECHO Launches Lightest Top-Handle Chain Saw in North America
There is always a compromise to save weight. In this saw in come from the thinner bar, smaller chain (same bar an chain as the cordless saw) and cheaper components. From the 150s I have seen in the wild they didn’t hold up well to pro use.
Try an ECHO CS-2511T! We just released it to dealers yesterday and its the lightest saw in its class. I can hold it with my pinkie finger.
ECHO Launches Lightest Top-Handle Chain Saw in North America
Do they make a rear handle?
Bryan Burns
Well-known member
Do they make a rear handle?
Not one as light as the CS-2511T, which is 5.2 pounds dry. ECHO's lightest rear handle is a CS-361P at 8.4 pounds.
matemike
Well-known member
I'm in the same predicament of choosing a light weight chain saw.
FWIW I got mildly flamed on arborist forums for saying i want to use a top handle saw for trimming and pruning garden palms and crepe myrtles and clearing a fence row all while my feet are on the ground. Top handle saws are for arborists who climb trees and need a very maneuverable saw in amongst the branches. A light weight rear handle saw like the Echo CS-361P or the Stihl MS 170 would be ideal for trimming at ground level and will be more versatile in the long run. It'd be too easy to want to reach and use a top handle saw single handed-ly, which is a big no-no; I can agree with that.
That being said, dealers have told me that they sell tons of top handle saws to non-professional customers who want nothing but the lightest saw available. Of course dealers will go on to say that using them on the ground for trimming, pruning and light clearing is perfectly acceptable. YMMV.
Turns out right now I have a borrowed Stihl MS 201 T and an Echo CS-330T on hand for trying out. Both are very maneuverable and are doing exactly what I want them to do. They are a bit heavy to use for hours on end, but the power is great. Still looking for less weight though.
So I'm trying to decide between three saws:
Echo CS-2511T - $379 - lightest @ 5.2 lbs dry, 3/8 pitch, .050 profile 12" bar
Stihl MS 150 T - $650 - most expensive - 5.7 lbs - 1/4 pitch, .043 profile 12" bar
Stihl MS 193 T - $350 - cheapest and heaviest @ 7.28 lbs - 3/8 pitch, .050 profile 12" bar
The Stihl 150 is most likely out due both to being the most expensive and having the thinnest profile bar and chain. The Stihl 193 is in the running because everyone around me swears by Stihl and say "get the Stihl, don't look back, there is no other saw brand."
I like the Echo 2511T the most on paper, but I want there to be a little more longevity of its use within the USA and real world experience reviews.
I'd like to know which saw you went with and how your experience has been.
FWIW I got mildly flamed on arborist forums for saying i want to use a top handle saw for trimming and pruning garden palms and crepe myrtles and clearing a fence row all while my feet are on the ground. Top handle saws are for arborists who climb trees and need a very maneuverable saw in amongst the branches. A light weight rear handle saw like the Echo CS-361P or the Stihl MS 170 would be ideal for trimming at ground level and will be more versatile in the long run. It'd be too easy to want to reach and use a top handle saw single handed-ly, which is a big no-no; I can agree with that.
That being said, dealers have told me that they sell tons of top handle saws to non-professional customers who want nothing but the lightest saw available. Of course dealers will go on to say that using them on the ground for trimming, pruning and light clearing is perfectly acceptable. YMMV.
Turns out right now I have a borrowed Stihl MS 201 T and an Echo CS-330T on hand for trying out. Both are very maneuverable and are doing exactly what I want them to do. They are a bit heavy to use for hours on end, but the power is great. Still looking for less weight though.
So I'm trying to decide between three saws:
Echo CS-2511T - $379 - lightest @ 5.2 lbs dry, 3/8 pitch, .050 profile 12" bar
Stihl MS 150 T - $650 - most expensive - 5.7 lbs - 1/4 pitch, .043 profile 12" bar
Stihl MS 193 T - $350 - cheapest and heaviest @ 7.28 lbs - 3/8 pitch, .050 profile 12" bar
The Stihl 150 is most likely out due both to being the most expensive and having the thinnest profile bar and chain. The Stihl 193 is in the running because everyone around me swears by Stihl and say "get the Stihl, don't look back, there is no other saw brand."
I like the Echo 2511T the most on paper, but I want there to be a little more longevity of its use within the USA and real world experience reviews.
I'd like to know which saw you went with and how your experience has been.
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Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Echo is a good saw depending on model. They kept some of the Shindawa tech.
I have had pretty good luck with my homeowner grade Stihl. I miss my old Stihl 034. Stolen from locked shed. Padlock versus pipewrench.
I have had pretty good luck with my homeowner grade Stihl. I miss my old Stihl 034. Stolen from locked shed. Padlock versus pipewrench.
When I was looking to replace an older saw I had, I was looking at either the 150 or the 201 (don't remember which) b/c I was looking to do a small amount of in tree pruning and just have a lil toy instead of a boat anchor.
Sales guy asked me how much I really, really planned to do in tree and based upon my answer he said I would hate that saw for felling trees and bucking. There is no leverage with that b/c there is no rear handle. Great shape/balance for limbing but that's it.
I ended up with a MS 180 C and it has been a great saw. ~9#. Fresh gas, sharp chain, good bar and it kicks a$$. Really, really consider not having a rear handle.
Sales guy asked me how much I really, really planned to do in tree and based upon my answer he said I would hate that saw for felling trees and bucking. There is no leverage with that b/c there is no rear handle. Great shape/balance for limbing but that's it.
I ended up with a MS 180 C and it has been a great saw. ~9#. Fresh gas, sharp chain, good bar and it kicks a$$. Really, really consider not having a rear handle.
earlthegoat2
Well-known member
Don't get a top handle for ground work. It's made to be used in tree and a rear handle is easier to use in every way on the ground and will feel lighter in actual use.
I would get an MS250 with 16" bar for quite a few bucks less. You will be able cut a 6" tree down pretty well and will probably fill the void that your 17lb saw (MS460?)is too heavy for.
I would get an MS250 with 16" bar for quite a few bucks less. You will be able cut a 6" tree down pretty well and will probably fill the void that your 17lb saw (MS460?)is too heavy for.
matemike
Well-known member
Just realized the OP may be talking about a rear handle MS 150 being that he never specified "T" for top handle.
Stihl makes the 150, the 193 and the 201 in rear handle versions. Might have to wait an extra couple days for a dealership to obtain one on hand, and they do run about $50 more and a half pound heavier than their top handle versions.
Stihl makes the 150, the 193 and the 201 in rear handle versions. Might have to wait an extra couple days for a dealership to obtain one on hand, and they do run about $50 more and a half pound heavier than their top handle versions.
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Firebrick43
Well-known member
As you should be flamed as well as anyone else who suggest using a top handle saw for things like brush and fence rows.I'm in the same predicament of choosing a light weight chain saw.
FWIW I got mildly flamed on arborist forums for saying i want to use a top handle saw for trimming and pruning garden palms and crepe myrtles and clearing a fence row all while my feet are on the ground. Top handle saws are for arborists who climb trees and need a very maneuverable saw in amongst the branches. A light weight rear handle saw like the Echo CS-361P or the Stihl MS 170 would be ideal for trimming at ground level and will be more versatile in the long run. It'd be too easy to want to reach and use a top handle saw single handed-ly, which is a big no-no; I can agree with that.
That being said, dealers have told me that they sell tons of top handle saws to non-professional customers who want nothing but the lightest saw available. Of course dealers will go on to say that using them on the ground for trimming, pruning and light clearing is perfectly acceptable. YMMV.
Turns out right now I have a borrowed Stihl MS 201 T and an Echo CS-330T on hand for trying out. Both are very maneuverable and are doing exactly what I want them to do. They are a bit heavy to use for hours on end, but the power is great. Still looking for less weight though.
So I'm trying to decide between three saws:
Echo CS-2511T - $379 - lightest @ 5.2 lbs dry, 3/8 pitch, .050 profile 12" bar
Stihl MS 150 T - $650 - most expensive - 5.7 lbs - 1/4 pitch, .043 profile 12" bar
Stihl MS 193 T - $350 - cheapest and heaviest @ 7.28 lbs - 3/8 pitch, .050 profile 12" bar
The Stihl 150 is most likely out due both to being the most expensive and having the thinnest profile bar and chain. The Stihl 193 is in the running because everyone around me swears by Stihl and say "get the Stihl, don't look back, there is no other saw brand."
I like the Echo 2511T the most on paper, but I want there to be a little more longevity of its use within the USA and real world experience reviews.
I'd like to know which saw you went with and how your experience has been.
It's about kickback and not having enough leverage to some what manage it.
matemike
Well-known member
I bought the 193 a few years ago because I wanted a smaller saw, it works fine but I used a buddies 201 and it will cut circles around the 193. I've since sold my 193 and bought the 201. For the price difference between the 150 and 201 I'd pay the extra and get a better saw. The 201 holds more oil and gas and also has almost another extra HP.
I think the 193 is a nice middle ground. Is costs much less than either the 150 or the 201. It's power favors the 150 side being low and the weight favors the 201 side being heavy, but it is situated somewhere between those two at about $300 less than the 201 and $250 less than the 150. Yeah the 201 will cut circles around it, but if it's not required why not spend the $300 saved on safety gear, chains and fuel?
The comparable echo is the 361p with power towards the 201 and weight being very slightly less than the 201, pretty much the same; 8.4 (echo) vs 8.6 (Stihl) lbs.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I put on a 36" bar, and now I don't really lean over so much as aim down.
Just realized the OP may be talking about a rear handle MS 150 being that he never specified "T" for top handle.
Stihl makes the 150, the 193 and the 201 in rear handle versions. Might have to wait an extra couple days for a dealership to obtain one on hand, and they do run about $50 more and a half pound heavier than their top handle versions.
I want the rear handle type...safer. I just want to save weight. My shoulder still hurts from using loppers to cut brush. I was wondering if anyone has the 150 rear handle and how it works.
earlthegoat2
Well-known member
They have got to be a rare bird.