closetoreality
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STIHL MS362 My New Toy
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shamrock12
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Nice saw. What's the difference from older version MS361?
The 362 is slightly heavier, more expensive ($70-80), runs a different 59cc motor, has .2hp more, and is better on emissions because of the Strato motor.
I'd buy a NOS 361 if I was in the market for a saw that size.
OP
closetoreality
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its a great saw, never had hands on a 361.
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TreePointer
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As mentioned, the 362 is a tad heavier but you get a little more grunt. I own the 361 and both are great saws.
In this displacement class, the new Husqvarna 562XP is also supposed to be very nice, but I haven't run one yet.
In this displacement class, the new Husqvarna 562XP is also supposed to be very nice, but I haven't run one yet.
outlander800
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What size bar is on that saw? Say for the average homeowner wanting a saw with a 20 inch bar, what stihl model would you guys get? That is a cool pic of it sitting on a log out in the woods.
k9american
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^^^ We've had a Farm Boss for about 3 yrs. Great saw - does what it's supposed to with no problems so far. 8 acres - lots of oaks to trim. I'd buy it again.
tractionmeister
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That's a nice saw. The first Stihl saw I bought was an 036 Pro and loved it. Ended up buying other larger Stihl saws and various blowers and many other Stihl products.
A friend in Alaska says that not many people in his area use Stihls ,but instead use Husquvarna. He won't use a Stihl no matter what I say. Of course, I have yet to own a Husquvarna, but have tried one out.
I wonder if Stihl completely solved the problem with the Ethanol gas messing up the fuel caps? I know I've had to replace mine under the recall.
A friend in Alaska says that not many people in his area use Stihls ,but instead use Husquvarna. He won't use a Stihl no matter what I say. Of course, I have yet to own a Husquvarna, but have tried one out.
I wonder if Stihl completely solved the problem with the Ethanol gas messing up the fuel caps? I know I've had to replace mine under the recall.
TreePointer
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There is the question of what a saw can do and what a saw is comfortable doing; and these days it's pretty much governed by displacement.
For the average homeowner, a good 50cc saw with a 16-18" bar will do fine. With a 20" bar, many 50cc saws will will struggle when buried in hardwoods. With that being said, the Stihl 261 is a great 50cc saw. There are also some nice offerings from Husqvarna and Dolmar if you're willing to use other brands.
If need to run a 20" bar most of the time, then a good ~60cc saw is what you want. Stihl S361/362, Husqvarna 562XP.
Smaller budget?
The Stihl MS290 FarmBoss and Husqvarna 455 Rancher are decent compromises. They are about 55cc's, have lower power-to-weight, and don't have the torque of a pro 60cc saw (noticeable when a 20" bar is buried and/or making stumps). The 290 also doesn't have modern anti-vibration technology. The new MS291 has many improvements, but you pay about $100 more for it. If you are interested in a used 290, there are plenty out there.
For the average homeowner, a good 50cc saw with a 16-18" bar will do fine. With a 20" bar, many 50cc saws will will struggle when buried in hardwoods. With that being said, the Stihl 261 is a great 50cc saw. There are also some nice offerings from Husqvarna and Dolmar if you're willing to use other brands.
If need to run a 20" bar most of the time, then a good ~60cc saw is what you want. Stihl S361/362, Husqvarna 562XP.
Smaller budget?
The Stihl MS290 FarmBoss and Husqvarna 455 Rancher are decent compromises. They are about 55cc's, have lower power-to-weight, and don't have the torque of a pro 60cc saw (noticeable when a 20" bar is buried and/or making stumps). The 290 also doesn't have modern anti-vibration technology. The new MS291 has many improvements, but you pay about $100 more for it. If you are interested in a used 290, there are plenty out there.
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034, 036, 361 or 362. The MS290 is a reliable saw but a pig in power to weight ration and not repair friendly. Do yourself a favor and get a professional vs homeowner saw.
TreePointer
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Congrats!!
My advice is to go over to arboristsite.com and put in a request for the full Stihl shop manual in their "beg for manuals" thread.
It's very nice to have the full manual vs. the watered down owner's manual.
Be safe!!!!!
nelstomlinson
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So, what brand is most DIY repair friendly? Pretty sure it's not Stihl - they don't let us mere mortals have their manuals.
The Stihl pro saws are very "DIY Repair Friendly". You can do a complete top end overhaul with only a couple tools and do it on the tailgate of your truck while in the field.
This is not the case with their homeowner saws.
None of the manufacturers make their Shop Manuals readily avail. to the general public. That's why the arboristsite "beg for manuals" thread is worth it's weight in gold. (Stihl's shop manuals are excellent!!)
outlander800
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Whats the difference between a pro saw vs. homeowner line? Would the farm boss be a homeowner? Im new to stihl saws and am interested in learning about them for buying one. I just have a little 14 inch echo. My parents just bought a new house with 6.5 acres and we are going to be doing some clearing and would like to get something bigger. They seem to have many different model numbers, what do the model numbers depict? Engine size or a pro version?
mooseracing
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Go to the Stihl website and they have it broken down by use.
I buy Pro models as I was raised with them being easer to work on and meant for repair in the field.
I've run about 25 cords through my MS361 in the past two years. It's fine with a 16-20", but I wish I would have bought bigger. I run a 24 or 25" bar on it most of the time. I'm keeping my eyes open of an older 90cc or larger saw, I have an old gear drive one I need to fix though as well.
The way it was explained to me when I worked at a Stihl dealer --
A "homeowner" saw is for someone cutting maybe a cord of wood a year. Expected life out of them is somewhere around 55-60 hours of work.
A "farm-use" saw is for someone cutting a couple of cords a year, needing a more powerful saw. Expected life out of them is probably around 150 hours of work or so.
A "pro" saw is for someone cutting a couple times a month or 6-10+ cords a year. Expected life isn't an issue as they are meant to be rebuilt instead of thrown away. They also have better anti-vibration mounts, they are lighter, and have stuff like adjustable oilers, carb heat, etc.
-------------------------
For a homeowner, there's nothing really "wrong" with a farm use saw like a MS290, they just don't have the features that the pro saws have.
- Better power to weight ratios
- Better designed and built
- Ease of repair/maintainance
- Features like heated or full wrap handlebars
- Many more sources of aftermarket and upgrade parts. (Baileys, Ebay, etc)
- Generally more mod. friendly. (porting, mufflers, etc)
GeorgiaHybrid
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For most people running a saw, a "homeowner" grade Stihl will be just fine. I reach for my little MS180C about as often as I do the others due to its light weight. It will cut a smaller tree (18" or so) almost as well as the larger saws with a lot less fatigue. The 290 Farm Boss will also work well for not a lot of money and I have one as a backup saw.
That being said, I still would not get rid of my old 028 super or the new MS 660. The 660 with a 25" bar can not be stopped and with a 32" still cuts faster than most people believe.
That being said, I still would not get rid of my old 028 super or the new MS 660. The 660 with a 25" bar can not be stopped and with a 32" still cuts faster than most people believe.
TreePointer
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I'll also add that you usually see magnesium crankcases in pro saws vs. plastic in others. Also split (pro) vs. clamshell (low end) design crankcase.
The "pro" moniker is sometimes fuzzy. There are homeowner/landowner saws share characteristics of pro saws.
The "pro" moniker is sometimes fuzzy. There are homeowner/landowner saws share characteristics of pro saws.
We run ported 440's with dual port mufflers and a couple other mods with32 inch bars and in my opinion its the best set up on the market. It balances well with a 32 inch bar and is fairly light. They run about 1300
Bucks set up though. Only down fall.
Bucks set up though. Only down fall.
fivespdcat
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I've got a farm boss 290. The way I see it is, if you use it everyday go pro, if you're a homeowner with a decent size lot go with a 290 and 20" bar. If you live in a nice new neighborhood just use your sawzall or a black and decker cheap one. I bought my dad the alligator saw and while it's not super nice it gets the job done on branches safely and quickly.
outlander800
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Up to what size tree would you guys think a 20" bar is good for? I cant believe the info out there on these saws, youtube is full of people with these huge pipes and ported cylinders on their chainsaws. Its crazy how people get into these things, never realized how big stihl was. Kinda like the snap on of chainsaws it seems, like a cult following.
Depends entirely on your skill level with a chainsaw, as well as the type of wood. You can pretty easily cut 1.5x bar length if you know what you are doing and the saw is powerful enough.
For an average joe, a 20" bar should be able to easily cut 14-16" rounds.
OP
closetoreality
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Wakefield
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MS 290 runs circles around the neighbors' Poulans and dept. store brand saws
a 360 seiries saw is lighter but stronger running than the 290
tree crew has 400 and/or 600 series saws,serious big stuff
also tree crew loves the little climbing expensive tophandle saw-can't remember the name of it (the Stihl one) there was a less expensive Echo alternative
If I had a $600. or $700. saw and had a need for it I would want more than one bar/chain for it and one of them I would want about a 16" even on a big saw. Watch out not to leave bad ole ethanol gas to go bad in it over winter!
CamarosRus
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IF I find MS 290 (farm boss) on Seattle Craigs list (used) what;s the most I should pay for it ???
Other than hearing it run, what should this inept shopper do to evaluate.
Where, who will sell me a new MS 290 for the least amount of CASH, plus shipping ???
Thanks,
Other than hearing it run, what should this inept shopper do to evaluate.
Where, who will sell me a new MS 290 for the least amount of CASH, plus shipping ???
Thanks,
OP
closetoreality
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compression.
Around here they go for $250-275 used if they're in good shape. Maybe $300 if it's a low hour homeowner saw that's essentially new.
Compression check.
Make sure it's oiling properly, and the chain can be tensioned properly.
Pull the plug and check out top of piston.
Pull the exhaust and inspect cylinder bore/piston skirt (T27 screwdriver or possibly on the end of the scrench).
Make sure the chain brake functions.
If I was really motivated, I'd get out my tachometer and see what kind of RPM it turns when the carb is adjusted properly.
IMO if it's a Stihl, it should be running Stihl chain as well. Oregon chain doesn't usually fit properly, or oil as well with the Stihl oiling system.
FlatBlackBlaze
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The ms441 is a BEAST! I am a certified Stihl technician and this saw blows any other brands saw out of the water.. And its actually really easy to start at any elevation.
outlander800
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how come you swapped them out?
http://www.stihldealer.net/locator/Results.aspx?lspr=1&zip=&city=renton&state=WA&dlrtype=1
This should take you to your local dealers, there are two of them in Renton. Their prices are pretty much the same and set by Stihl, IIRC. There might be a bit of wiggle room for a bigger bar (20" vs 16") but check both of them out and see who has better customer service.
Like a few others, I'd recommend a MS290 Farm Boss with the 20" bar you want. My saw is 8 years old, cuts a few cords every year and has never given me a problem. I switched from a 16 to 20" bar instead buying a bigger saw. It made a big difference for me and my back felt better as I didn't need to bend over as far running it.
Maybe the testosterone levels from reading this thread kicked in? Or, he must be cutting some pretty good sized stuff (in northern hardwood standards).
Since I am not conditioned (in shape) to run a larger saw all day long, I find I am much more productive running a lighter, smaller saw like the 260 when doing firewood, pulp, thinning sized work. Lugging a 441 around all day during the summer is plain exhausting and IMO, causes one to get more dangerous from fatigue.
You illustrate why a person needs at least the "two saw plan." An MS441 and MS260 is a marriage made in heaven.
You never know when you might get one saw pinched in the field and it's good to have a backup.
It's also good to use small saws for small tasks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue and chain saw use is a bad combination.
However the "two saw" plan quickly becomes the "three saw plan" and it keeps growing.