SK-Mike
Well-known member
First time using the yellow label chain, could really tell a big difference. My saw (MS261) felt like it had another gear in it. Was cutting some fallen poplar, cedar and oak. This chain is the real deal.
Stihl yellow chain
- Thread starter SK-Mike
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Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yellow chains are great for improving any saw. They do dull out a bit faster than a green, but the trade is well worth it in my non-pro opinion! Your 261 is a great saw!
B_Bimmer
Well-known member
If only they offered red chain...
Seriously though, that green **** is criminally bad.
Seriously though, that green **** is criminally bad.
jar944
Well-known member
Red would be square filed chisel, and maybe low rakers.
I always thought the safety chain was odd.
jar944
Well-known member
Yellow chains are great for improving any saw. They do dull out a bit faster than a green, but the trade is well worth it in my non-pro opinion! Your 261 is a great saw!
The safety just has a higher and sometimes longer raker keeping the depth of cut limited compared to a normal chain, it shouldn't effect how long the chain stays sharp.
Semi chisel will last longer in dirty conditions than full chisel, but cut slower.
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Comments based only on my personal experience. I get why higher raker would impact it, but why would length of raker?
Perhaps greens seem, to me at least, to wear slower than yellows because they start out 'duller' (is that even a word?) and the perceived performance fall-off is not as great as it is on a yellow.
jar944
Well-known member
Comments based only on my personal experience. I get why higher raker would impact it, but why would length of raker?
Perhaps greens seem, to me at least, to wear slower than yellows because they start out 'duller' (is that even a word?) and the perceived performance fall-off is not as great as it is on a yellow.
Longer in that on some the tie straps also have anti kickback bumpers that effectively extend the rakers.
Its basically the same concept as blade and cutter head safety kickback nubs or MAN ratings in other woodworking equipment. The intent is to limit the depth of cut. The longer effective raker makes is less likely to bite in when at the top of the nose on the bar.
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The actual tooth geometry should be the same regardless assuming both are full chisel profiles.
It's an intro chain, to help those you have never use a chainsaw learn.
I still get have tough time remembering when my Dad would use an old chainsaw without a basic kickback guard. Not the safety that turn the chain off but no bar.
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Same reason they offer so many different chainsaws... lots of different people with different needs.
I've several and like the full chisel 3/8"