xtremek
Well-known member
Funny thing. That's just how I imagined you were going to end up making it look like. Love it.
Stooge's longer term car projects
- Thread starter Stooge
- Start date
Not much update but some shiny bits came in from ebay land, did some more metal work on the dash that isnt worth seeing and trying to plug away on some wiring here and there and sold the smoothie wheels to someone up in maine to put on his 65. Time to start thinking of what i actually want to run for wheels for this and what i actually want to spend on wheels for them since i'd like to pick up a coupe project in the next while.
Started plugging away on my dash after a nice few weeks of either being busy or having the flu, got it sort of mocked in and started figuring out where i would place the clock and started cutting a few pieces for it. Didnt make it very far....
Since this 66 GTO rolled in today for some rust repairs and some suspension freshening up. I knew it was coming in but i hadnt seen it yet or had the chance to speak with the owner. The cowl infront of the windshield, the rear deck lid behind the rear glass, the areas around where the roof meets the rear quarters, and the tailpan under the trunk lid all need some attention. Possibly the rockers but need to pull off the trim pieces off first, from what i could feel im optimistic but its hard to tell. I love mid 60's Pontiacs and i was grinning from ear to ear the whole time while i was going over the game plan with the owner.
Original 389!
Since this 66 GTO rolled in today for some rust repairs and some suspension freshening up. I knew it was coming in but i hadnt seen it yet or had the chance to speak with the owner. The cowl infront of the windshield, the rear deck lid behind the rear glass, the areas around where the roof meets the rear quarters, and the tailpan under the trunk lid all need some attention. Possibly the rockers but need to pull off the trim pieces off first, from what i could feel im optimistic but its hard to tell. I love mid 60's Pontiacs and i was grinning from ear to ear the whole time while i was going over the game plan with the owner.
Original 389!
Skip ahead of the text, i mounted a clock and managed to make it sound significant because i work slow and it took a while.
Finangle the dash back out of the cab to put the clock in, quickly realized, (remembered) that my air saw was toast. proceeded to just gouge at it with various cutoff wheel grinders and cleaned up the hole with a die grinder and luckily the recess the clock needed placed it right over one of the backside dash ribs and had some fun getting that out of the way. Figured out how to mount the clock since my dash has a point in the middle instead of a nice radius like the ford dash . Also realized the screws on the back of the bezel that i knew where there after the quick look when i bought it, found out they were just small 3/16 smooth studs so i'll need to mount something to the backside to be able to secure it.
Those are not burnthrough holes on either side of the clock, drilled to place the bezel. Im a hack but i try not show it off more than i need to!
I even used a level on this!
The shape of the top of the clock where the lightbulbs are held and is usually under the sheetmetal of the normal ford dash but sticks out passed my dash sheetmetal was going to get in my way. Precision marked off with a scribble of a blue sharpie and ground off with the die grinder that was already out from making the hole for the clock.
Started bending up the filler piece to take up the space between the bezel and the top dash skin but i guess i didnt get any pictures of it, maybe tomorrow.
Probably getting rid of that switch panel, or atleast moving it somewhere less obtrussive.
Also made some time to measure up for my new idea for wheels and tires and from my sloppy and ignorant calculations, they should fit exactly perfectly
Finangle the dash back out of the cab to put the clock in, quickly realized, (remembered) that my air saw was toast. proceeded to just gouge at it with various cutoff wheel grinders and cleaned up the hole with a die grinder and luckily the recess the clock needed placed it right over one of the backside dash ribs and had some fun getting that out of the way. Figured out how to mount the clock since my dash has a point in the middle instead of a nice radius like the ford dash . Also realized the screws on the back of the bezel that i knew where there after the quick look when i bought it, found out they were just small 3/16 smooth studs so i'll need to mount something to the backside to be able to secure it.
Those are not burnthrough holes on either side of the clock, drilled to place the bezel. Im a hack but i try not show it off more than i need to!
I even used a level on this!
The shape of the top of the clock where the lightbulbs are held and is usually under the sheetmetal of the normal ford dash but sticks out passed my dash sheetmetal was going to get in my way. Precision marked off with a scribble of a blue sharpie and ground off with the die grinder that was already out from making the hole for the clock.
Started bending up the filler piece to take up the space between the bezel and the top dash skin but i guess i didnt get any pictures of it, maybe tomorrow.
Probably getting rid of that switch panel, or atleast moving it somewhere less obtrussive.
Also made some time to measure up for my new idea for wheels and tires and from my sloppy and ignorant calculations, they should fit exactly perfectly
BBChevro
Well-known member
That's looking good Stooge - if you still wanted to use the switch panel, it would probably look OK to the (far) left of the speedo at about the same height that is was before (it looks good in my head anyway 
).
I love your work.
).I love your work.
hey thanks! i appreciate it!
as far as the ignition switch cover thing, i'll probably just put it off to the side for now and use it on something else down the road. i had been thinking of either moving it left towards the column (still on the right side) and maybe further down a bit but i think that would just change the "triangulation" the cover creates, or i had been thinking the same thing of moving to the left of the column, but i was thinking of putting a small 2" tach over there so it was out of the way a bit and since the ford speedo doesnt have one.
i might just try and find a nice polished washer, maybe with a slight radius to dress it up a bit and mount the ignition switch right to the dash so it takes up the least amount of noticeable space.
i dont think im going to bother with fitting a radio in there and am leaning towards one of those hidden line out amplifiers that you can just plug an ipod into, im too happy with how the dash is looking to clutter it up although i am planning on a small glovebox on the passenger side with a hidden magnetic catch latch so there will not be any visible knob to open it.
as far as the ignition switch cover thing, i'll probably just put it off to the side for now and use it on something else down the road. i had been thinking of either moving it left towards the column (still on the right side) and maybe further down a bit but i think that would just change the "triangulation" the cover creates, or i had been thinking the same thing of moving to the left of the column, but i was thinking of putting a small 2" tach over there so it was out of the way a bit and since the ford speedo doesnt have one.
i might just try and find a nice polished washer, maybe with a slight radius to dress it up a bit and mount the ignition switch right to the dash so it takes up the least amount of noticeable space.
i dont think im going to bother with fitting a radio in there and am leaning towards one of those hidden line out amplifiers that you can just plug an ipod into, im too happy with how the dash is looking to clutter it up although i am planning on a small glovebox on the passenger side with a hidden magnetic catch latch so there will not be any visible knob to open it.
Havent been updating the tread on this board as much as on a c10 specific one so heres my small update.
Ordered up some new toys to hear it run, new alternator to replace the cheap chrome, new plugs and wires, and a new gear reduction starter for a late 90s vortec truck to replace the 80lb boat anchor starter that came on these trucks.
Had it firing up before the new year, which was my goal but wasnt set up enough to get it timed yet.
This morning,After some futzing with the plug gaps and the MSD all in one hei distributor, it now fires right up first try and idles! Had to mickey mouse a gas can to the mechanical fuel pump to keep it going, but needless to say im pretty happy with it after not hearing it run for 3years after being rebuilt...although when i bought headers, i bought the plain black painted ones amd they sure seem to smoke alot until the paint burns off!
Even broke out the fancy tools for this!
Decided to clean up th carb a bit, discovered the accelerator pump hole was slightly covered by the bowl gasket. Ill end up replacing the carb when i get closer to having it on the road, there was quite a bit of green sediment from the gas just sitting amlong with all of the dust that comes along with doing metal and body work
And a short cellphone video, sound quality is mediocre, and a reving engine isnt going to be picked up to well. ( i dont know if i embedded it correctly)
Also ordered my new air tanks from Travis at AZ pro performance last night, two 3 gallon aluminum ones to mount to the frame behind the cab, instead of the giant 8gallon one i had in the bed.I will have to order up a patch panel for the hole in the bed but im not worried about that.
Ordered up some new toys to hear it run, new alternator to replace the cheap chrome, new plugs and wires, and a new gear reduction starter for a late 90s vortec truck to replace the 80lb boat anchor starter that came on these trucks.
Had it firing up before the new year, which was my goal but wasnt set up enough to get it timed yet.
This morning,After some futzing with the plug gaps and the MSD all in one hei distributor, it now fires right up first try and idles! Had to mickey mouse a gas can to the mechanical fuel pump to keep it going, but needless to say im pretty happy with it after not hearing it run for 3years after being rebuilt...although when i bought headers, i bought the plain black painted ones amd they sure seem to smoke alot until the paint burns off!
Even broke out the fancy tools for this!
Decided to clean up th carb a bit, discovered the accelerator pump hole was slightly covered by the bowl gasket. Ill end up replacing the carb when i get closer to having it on the road, there was quite a bit of green sediment from the gas just sitting amlong with all of the dust that comes along with doing metal and body work
And a short cellphone video, sound quality is mediocre, and a reving engine isnt going to be picked up to well. ( i dont know if i embedded it correctly)
Also ordered my new air tanks from Travis at AZ pro performance last night, two 3 gallon aluminum ones to mount to the frame behind the cab, instead of the giant 8gallon one i had in the bed.I will have to order up a patch panel for the hole in the bed but im not worried about that.
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BBChevro
Well-known member
Any update is a good update, the video link didn't work for me -it said that the image was removed.
Speaking of links, do you have a link to the other thread?
Speaking of links, do you have a link to the other thread?
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
It worked for me Stooge. It sounds great. And looks real sweet as well. I bet that put a big grin on your face.
The question i know you've been asking yourselves; the answer is Yes, the speedometer cable from a 1972 Gremlin is the perfect match to mate up a 700R4 through a B&M torque converter sensor to a 1950 Ford speedo gauge
And an old stock pressure switch covered in dust from Napa made for mid 70s ford truck and a temperature sensor from a 64 ford custom sedan and a standard pcv. I was planning on ordering the specialty senders from C&G ford or shoebox central but im trying to keep it to parts i can get off the shelf, plus its a hell of alot cheaper. If they dont seem to do the trick, i can always buy the specialty ones and just be out a few bucks for the first try.
actually started AND finished a project the same day i started it this morning. Air tank brackets to bolt onto my compressor mounts. I was planning on getting fancy and use some dom tubing i had but the distance between the legs of the tank was about an inch too narrow to fit where i wanted them to. I cant seem to find a picture of the compressor mounts but just imagine a tray with about a 1.75" tall lip around it.
Thought i was being clever when i did half holes on the end so i could loosen the back bolts and have the bracket hinge/pivot down with the tank attached incase i needed to fiddle with something...then realized just removing the back bolts would do the same thing.
Also started to clean out the inside of the cab and strip some more paint off the floor so i can get the trans tunnel welded in, finally got the steering column length figured out , ( going with the 35" one) and figured out what i need to order for fittings. Also received my Vintage Auto Garage solid state 12v to 6v regulator for the gauges and clock, was planning on just using the Runtz reducers but figured i would give this a try
Narrowing down some steering wheels choices that are still budget friendly
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, FIXED THE FURNACE IN THE GARAGE!!! no more numb fingers or being able to see my breath inside!
And an old stock pressure switch covered in dust from Napa made for mid 70s ford truck and a temperature sensor from a 64 ford custom sedan and a standard pcv. I was planning on ordering the specialty senders from C&G ford or shoebox central but im trying to keep it to parts i can get off the shelf, plus its a hell of alot cheaper. If they dont seem to do the trick, i can always buy the specialty ones and just be out a few bucks for the first try.
actually started AND finished a project the same day i started it this morning. Air tank brackets to bolt onto my compressor mounts. I was planning on getting fancy and use some dom tubing i had but the distance between the legs of the tank was about an inch too narrow to fit where i wanted them to. I cant seem to find a picture of the compressor mounts but just imagine a tray with about a 1.75" tall lip around it.
Thought i was being clever when i did half holes on the end so i could loosen the back bolts and have the bracket hinge/pivot down with the tank attached incase i needed to fiddle with something...then realized just removing the back bolts would do the same thing.
Also started to clean out the inside of the cab and strip some more paint off the floor so i can get the trans tunnel welded in, finally got the steering column length figured out , ( going with the 35" one) and figured out what i need to order for fittings. Also received my Vintage Auto Garage solid state 12v to 6v regulator for the gauges and clock, was planning on just using the Runtz reducers but figured i would give this a try
Narrowing down some steering wheels choices that are still budget friendly
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, FIXED THE FURNACE IN THE GARAGE!!! no more numb fingers or being able to see my breath inside!
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MP&C
Well-known member
nuklbstr83
Well-known member
just stumbled into this thread. freakin awesome.
Picture Day! got the new column and wheel in pretty close to problem free. because of the shape of the speedo bezel and my dash, the expensive flaming river bracket I treated myself to, pulls the column up too much. i'll end up making an extension block or something when I pull it apart again, but for now, I just threaded a nut onto the end of the stock column support studs, threaded another bolt onto the end of those along with a nut and washer so I could tighten the nut/washer and move the bracket up or down.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
and im still trying to find a use for that polished switch plate, I don't hate it here but im not excited about it either
Why not (as you mentioned) use it for the wiper switch. Or the headlight switch (unless I'm missing it). Too bad you couldn't use a combo in that plate. I don't know how it could be accomplished.
there are 3 holes in that plate, ignition switch in the middle, headlight switch and probably a wiper switch or choke cable knob. the issue i have is, i really like the plate, but it just doesnt look right anywhere, so im contemplating using some nice polished washer/bezels for those switches. so far to the left of the column is where i dislike the plate the least.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
there are 3 holes in that plate, ignition switch in the middle, headlight switch and probably a wiper switch or choke cable knob. the issue i have is, i really like the plate, but it just doesnt look right anywhere, so im contemplating using some nice polished washer/bezels for those switches. so far to the left of the column is where i dislike the plate the least.
I guess I totally missed what you were asking me.
I see what you're saying. But I don't think it looks out of place.JMO
And yes "where I dislike the plate the least."
Not much to see, slipped and fell hard on some ice a week or 2 ago and managed to break a few ribs, and its been snowing every other day so thats kept me busy and in pain pretty consistantly. Finally got above 30degrees this mornig, so i took a handful of aleves and went to putter around the garage for a bit.
First, took care of getting my steering column finally secured. Bought some coupling nuts from MSC and cut out the crooked stock studs.might replace the individual bolts with some short lengthes of all thread, but this is fine for now. Also had to drill a new hole in the upper support for the new speedometer cable to pass through since the new speedometer is a little more centered.
I bought a small tach a few weeks ago with the intent to do something simple and mount it off of the console or kick panel.
Against my better judgement, decided to mount it in the dash somewhere. Through pure coincidence, the lower dash piece has a similar shape to some useful stock dash pieces.
No reason to re-invent the wheel. Cutting out the surrounding frame area of the ashtray to make mounting the little flip down easier woth the right spacing and mounting. ( i knew there was a reason i was holding onto the old dash!)
i forgot to take any pictures of cutting out the surround and the hole in the new dash and welding it in.
Made a little filler piece. I'll leave the lighter hole there for now incase i need to put something there, or i'll fill it later on.
And back into the cab, still need to do some grinding and massage the bottom edge since i had to cut out another frame support and there isnt much metal bellow where the old surround was grafted into the new dash and it was starting to oil can a bit.
Not using the polished switch plate, so a hole was drilled for the ignition switch. have a little trimming to do then i can start the filler templates around the firewall, edges and around the steering column to clean it up a bit. Also bought a box of molex connectors to make wiring a bit easier.
First, took care of getting my steering column finally secured. Bought some coupling nuts from MSC and cut out the crooked stock studs.might replace the individual bolts with some short lengthes of all thread, but this is fine for now. Also had to drill a new hole in the upper support for the new speedometer cable to pass through since the new speedometer is a little more centered.
I bought a small tach a few weeks ago with the intent to do something simple and mount it off of the console or kick panel.
Against my better judgement, decided to mount it in the dash somewhere. Through pure coincidence, the lower dash piece has a similar shape to some useful stock dash pieces.
No reason to re-invent the wheel. Cutting out the surrounding frame area of the ashtray to make mounting the little flip down easier woth the right spacing and mounting. ( i knew there was a reason i was holding onto the old dash!)
i forgot to take any pictures of cutting out the surround and the hole in the new dash and welding it in.
Made a little filler piece. I'll leave the lighter hole there for now incase i need to put something there, or i'll fill it later on.
And back into the cab, still need to do some grinding and massage the bottom edge since i had to cut out another frame support and there isnt much metal bellow where the old surround was grafted into the new dash and it was starting to oil can a bit.
Not using the polished switch plate, so a hole was drilled for the ignition switch. have a little trimming to do then i can start the filler templates around the firewall, edges and around the steering column to clean it up a bit. Also bought a box of molex connectors to make wiring a bit easier.
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ryanp77
Well-known member
Cool build
Leakie
Active member
Hey Stooge, how do you like that steering wheel? How is the quality?
Im happy with it, especially for the price. I ended up ordering during a sale they were having, and also had a coupon code that a buddy gave me after he bought one for his chevelle. Feels like a nice quality piece, this one is powdercoated and its pretty much perfect. I wouldnt hesitate to use them again.
johno
Well-known member
Lot of work there, looks good
I didn't see it mentioned, what is the clock and surround from?
This might be useful when you want to hook up the gauges.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-will-work-with-my-dumb-gauge-thingie.862020/
I didn't see it mentioned, what is the clock and surround from?
This might be useful when you want to hook up the gauges.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-will-work-with-my-dumb-gauge-thingie.862020/
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The clock is stamped as being made in 48 and the speedometer is supposed to be from a 1950,both from ford shoebox sedans.
Thanks for th link! Luckily i have an old power supply that i was able to energize the gauges with 6volts before i went to far and also for when it permanently goes in, i bought a solid state voltage regulator for the gauges. I may have to mess around with the terminals as fords were also a positive ground along with the oil pressure and temp sender that SHOULD work...in theory
Thanks for th link! Luckily i have an old power supply that i was able to energize the gauges with 6volts before i went to far and also for when it permanently goes in, i bought a solid state voltage regulator for the gauges. I may have to mess around with the terminals as fords were also a positive ground along with the oil pressure and temp sender that SHOULD work...in theory
Some small updates from the past week or so
take something simple like a place for a key and make it difficult and complicated
ignition switch on the dash was especially shortlived, 2 days before i changed my mind, filled the stock cigarette lighter hole, and drilled a new hole for the switch about 1/3 of an inch to the left. Now to find a spot for those pesky knobs.
The laziest hood strut install
Pair of Monroe 901612 lift supports. These come with all of the needed threaded ball studs.
Cut the rivets out of the stock hood spring attachment pieces and fill in the hole since its too big for the stud and drill a smaller hole. You could use larger od washer with a small id but these struts have some force and i wouldnt want to have the piece coming loose.
I wasnt sure if there was some formula to figuring out the lower placement, so i just set the hood extended height where i wanted it and lined it up to a spot on the fender and guessed. I will end up using a standoff to extend the stud away from the hood pinch or maybe just a small bracket on the wheel tub to positition it as such.
Also plugging away at my trans tunnel, i decided to give myself a little more breathing room from when i first made the tunnel piece so its taking a little longer to set up all of the new filler pieces. Tape and sharpies templates for those precision pieces.
take something simple like a place for a key and make it difficult and complicated
ignition switch on the dash was especially shortlived, 2 days before i changed my mind, filled the stock cigarette lighter hole, and drilled a new hole for the switch about 1/3 of an inch to the left. Now to find a spot for those pesky knobs.
The laziest hood strut install
Pair of Monroe 901612 lift supports. These come with all of the needed threaded ball studs.
Cut the rivets out of the stock hood spring attachment pieces and fill in the hole since its too big for the stud and drill a smaller hole. You could use larger od washer with a small id but these struts have some force and i wouldnt want to have the piece coming loose.
I wasnt sure if there was some formula to figuring out the lower placement, so i just set the hood extended height where i wanted it and lined it up to a spot on the fender and guessed. I will end up using a standoff to extend the stud away from the hood pinch or maybe just a small bracket on the wheel tub to positition it as such.
Also plugging away at my trans tunnel, i decided to give myself a little more breathing room from when i first made the tunnel piece so its taking a little longer to set up all of the new filler pieces. Tape and sharpies templates for those precision pieces.
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Im going to be going in a different direction with this truck now. ive gotten a more than a little side tracked from what i originally wanted, a simple, low cruiser that i could have some fun with, tinker on a bit and maybe go to a cruise night every once in awhile. Im driving this truck atleast once this summer.
First no tubular control arms, i originally had bought some cups and plates from ekstensive metal works before i bought a Porterbuilt crossmember, (Dropmember), didnt like the way the cups allowed the bag to contact at full compression and planned on buying spendy arms. Im not quite sure what happened with my frame shock mount from Porterbuilt, but it kicked the shock way out, i cobbled together a place holder until i bought arms. To use my stock ones, i made up a quick new shock mount extender.
From over the weekend-
1 1/4 tubing with a threaded 5/8-18 threaded rod end, couple holes drilled in the sides for more weld surface area.
Also had to take care of the contact issue from my now nonexistent cups and plates that i sold to someone. its no cereal box template but it will do. I left the end open to act as a drain and it just seemed like a good idea incase i couldnt get the bottom bag bolt out or something.
i drilled a hole through the side of the arm to slide the shock mount in and welded it to both the outside, inside and the back where the tube ends contacts the innner wall.
And some paint, need to grab some shorter shock bolts, i had the 3.5" in my hand and figured i should get the 4" ones that happen to have too much shoulder and leave too much open area that cant thread in.
First no tubular control arms, i originally had bought some cups and plates from ekstensive metal works before i bought a Porterbuilt crossmember, (Dropmember), didnt like the way the cups allowed the bag to contact at full compression and planned on buying spendy arms. Im not quite sure what happened with my frame shock mount from Porterbuilt, but it kicked the shock way out, i cobbled together a place holder until i bought arms. To use my stock ones, i made up a quick new shock mount extender.
From over the weekend-
1 1/4 tubing with a threaded 5/8-18 threaded rod end, couple holes drilled in the sides for more weld surface area.
Also had to take care of the contact issue from my now nonexistent cups and plates that i sold to someone. its no cereal box template but it will do. I left the end open to act as a drain and it just seemed like a good idea incase i couldnt get the bottom bag bolt out or something.
i drilled a hole through the side of the arm to slide the shock mount in and welded it to both the outside, inside and the back where the tube ends contacts the innner wall.
And some paint, need to grab some shorter shock bolts, i had the 3.5" in my hand and figured i should get the 4" ones that happen to have too much shoulder and leave too much open area that cant thread in.
I needed to get my control arms in order for my next purchase. Im a huge fan of the show Roadkill, and was over a buddys house, got him to watch a few episodes including one of the muscle truck ones. He's owned chevy caprices for years as well as a few other fullsize chevy cars, (currently has a 92 caprice wagon and a matching numbers '64 impala ss) and has an attic and garage full of parts. he then happens to mention that he has a new full, staggered set of 17" cragar soft 8's that he bought for a car that he sold but held onto the wheels, and after a few dollars are exchanged they came home with me. I had been trying to convince myself to buy some nice billets or 20s, but i couldnt decide on anything, was too cheap to spend the few grand on billets or the ones that fit my budget, just didnt do it for me as well as im not a big fan of big wheels, so surprise cheap steelies from a good friend hit the nail on the head. Dont get me wrong, big wheels have their place and there are plenty of trucks that i like with 20"+ wheels, but id be too worried about damaging a rim to enjoy driving around here.
Since the wheels were so cheap, i figured i would find some fun tires, and fun tires equals Mickey thompsons.
For the fronts, mickey thompson street comp, 28x10'ish.
I also ordered a set of center caps amd dorman conversion lugs for the plastic retaining lug nut covers to thread onto.
For the backs, i am going with the street radial II's, 29x12. This called for having the rears widened a bit so the rear wheels are being sent to weldcraft in the next few weeks and tires will be ordered, ( trying to space out expenses). i did get the front tires mounted and installed last night. they might not be to everyones liking, but im a fan so far and if and when i want to change it up, i wont have $3k+ ******* in wheels.
Front tires look bigger in real life, they look a little on the small side in the pictures but its still a 5.5" sidewall.
Also ordered a roll of fatmat rattle trap i think its called. Should have the trans tunnel finished this week so i can throw some paint on the floor and put the sound deadening in and start wiring.
Since the wheels were so cheap, i figured i would find some fun tires, and fun tires equals Mickey thompsons.
For the fronts, mickey thompson street comp, 28x10'ish.
I also ordered a set of center caps amd dorman conversion lugs for the plastic retaining lug nut covers to thread onto.
For the backs, i am going with the street radial II's, 29x12. This called for having the rears widened a bit so the rear wheels are being sent to weldcraft in the next few weeks and tires will be ordered, ( trying to space out expenses). i did get the front tires mounted and installed last night. they might not be to everyones liking, but im a fan so far and if and when i want to change it up, i wont have $3k+ ******* in wheels.
Front tires look bigger in real life, they look a little on the small side in the pictures but its still a 5.5" sidewall.
Also ordered a roll of fatmat rattle trap i think its called. Should have the trans tunnel finished this week so i can throw some paint on the floor and put the sound deadening in and start wiring.
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squashman702
Well-known member
Great build, good to see another Boston area guy on here.
EDIT: Know of anyone else with shop space available in the area? Myself and a buddy are looking for some space, he's got a 49 Ford F1 he wants to start working on, and I'd like some space to do work on my BMW and get into some sort of project.
EDIT: Know of anyone else with shop space available in the area? Myself and a buddy are looking for some space, he's got a 49 Ford F1 he wants to start working on, and I'd like some space to do work on my BMW and get into some sort of project.
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dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Nice Stooge. Thanks for the update. I like your choice on the wheels. Fits the truck well.
I actually got off my *** and have been working on the Delta. I also plan to be using it this summer instead of working on it for another year.
I actually got off my *** and have been working on the Delta. I also plan to be using it this summer instead of working on it for another year.
Hey thanks! my shop space is in a seperate part of the building from a nitro funny car shop and engine builder as well as Spindles car club in Weymouth. they probably have some space but it is meant for club members, i dont want to be in the club so i get my own space out back. just start searching craigslist for spaces, thats how my buddy with the panel truck found this one and got me in there.
thanks! i wasnt sure about how the wheels would look at first but im pretty happy with them as well as the price. nice utilitarian look that i dont need to worry about bending a rim over a pothole or something. i would have liked an extra inch taller tire for the fronts but theres not a whole lot out there for what i was looking for, its all either short car tires or truck tires.
good to hear your plugging away on the Olds! for the amount of money and time i have into this thing without ever having driven it on the street, it really needs to get out there before i lose interest or something. plus i have plans to start a daily driver build starting sometime this year as a winter project, early 40's to early 50's gm sedan, straight 6 with an overdrive, hopefully just a nice, reliable driver without going overboard. my daily driver tahoe needs a break and some freshening up and i'd like to just put that on winter driving duty
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Just a plug to see any progress??? Any headway lately?
not a whole lot, mostly boring floor and firewall patching, rebuilt/ re-gasketed the carb, fixed my power steering lines. these are ripped from my c10forum thread about converting the gm pump to work with the ford steering rack.
Move along, not much worth seeing here....... my tahoe needing some attention after a brutal winter and being 11 yrs old, front calipers, rotors, pads, new cv's, alternator and looking for a new exhaust before mine falls off.
just about done with the floor and seat brackets, trying to keep it simple and pretty low profile since the seats themselves are a little tall and im about 6'1. ordered a new temp switch for the electric fans since i somehow lost the original one when i decided to put the temp gauge sender on the passenger side where the switch was and a new carb gasket kit until i decide on a new carburetor as i might try and get it on the road with this current one.
i had been planning on buying the Heidt's power steering pressure regulator to keep from blowing out the ford rack and so the steering wouldnt be so touchy at speed, but with the regulator, all of the necessary fittings and pressure hose, i was a little over $250. did some research and purchased the Borgeson pressure valve reducer for $16 instead, and i actually rather like that instead of throttling back pressure at a regulator, it actually reduces output line pressure by reducing spring pressure, (if i understand it right :character0042
its basically just some thin washer shims, an extra o-ring and a clamp sleeve to protect the threads on the valve so you can put it in a vise without mucking up the threads.
removed from the power steering pump, the outer threaded adaptor came right out since there is a little spring pressure, but used a small magnet to pull the inner valve out.
$16 worth of kit
the stock valve has 2 shims under the nut
according to the included chart, and referencing what the ford racks are rated for 850'ish psi, i used 4 of the 5 included shims.
and back in the pump, obviously the outer threaded piece for the pressure hose to attach to isnt in yet but i was rushing through this last night because i was bitter and hungry from working on my daily
hope this helps someone save some moneys! this was done with the pump still bolted to the engine in the truck $16>$250
Move along, not much worth seeing here....... my tahoe needing some attention after a brutal winter and being 11 yrs old, front calipers, rotors, pads, new cv's, alternator and looking for a new exhaust before mine falls off.
just about done with the floor and seat brackets, trying to keep it simple and pretty low profile since the seats themselves are a little tall and im about 6'1. ordered a new temp switch for the electric fans since i somehow lost the original one when i decided to put the temp gauge sender on the passenger side where the switch was and a new carb gasket kit until i decide on a new carburetor as i might try and get it on the road with this current one.
i had been planning on buying the Heidt's power steering pressure regulator to keep from blowing out the ford rack and so the steering wouldnt be so touchy at speed, but with the regulator, all of the necessary fittings and pressure hose, i was a little over $250. did some research and purchased the Borgeson pressure valve reducer for $16 instead, and i actually rather like that instead of throttling back pressure at a regulator, it actually reduces output line pressure by reducing spring pressure, (if i understand it right :character0042
its basically just some thin washer shims, an extra o-ring and a clamp sleeve to protect the threads on the valve so you can put it in a vise without mucking up the threads.
removed from the power steering pump, the outer threaded adaptor came right out since there is a little spring pressure, but used a small magnet to pull the inner valve out.
$16 worth of kit
the stock valve has 2 shims under the nut
according to the included chart, and referencing what the ford racks are rated for 850'ish psi, i used 4 of the 5 included shims.
and back in the pump, obviously the outer threaded piece for the pressure hose to attach to isnt in yet but i was rushing through this last night because i was bitter and hungry from working on my daily
hope this helps someone save some moneys! this was done with the pump still bolted to the engine in the truck $16>$250
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well the owner of the GTO finally popped up again, and after blowing off the dust, some planning and financial compensation talks, sounds like work will start this week sometime. he's having a local glass company come by and pull the front and rear glass, and drop off what he has for patch/ replacement panels.
some pictures of her ******* :character0009:
i was concerned about the areas around the drip rails with the polished trim and assumed it would be pretty far gone but i was actually pleasantly surprised with THOSE areas as well as the roof overall looks perfect. when the glass is pulled, we will have to see those hidden trim areas look.
driver side upper quarter "sail" panel is a little soft
the passenger side isnt as friendly
according to the owner, they do not make just these pieces only new quarters and since most of the quarter is fine, i'll end up making new ones. picking up some small tubing this week to start bracing the trunk to keep it true since the rear deck and trunk latch/ taillight area will get replaced and i'll just try and work from the back forward to lessen the chance of misalignment.
also sent off my gauge cluster to Redline Gauge works to have the ammeter converted over to a volt gauge. the amp gauge wouldnt have liked the higher amps from an alternator as well as i wouldnt have felt comfortable with a big amp gauge cable running through the cab, behind the dash like that. the cluster is in great shape, but they will be bench testing the gauges, cleaning and lubing the speedometer as well.
some pictures of her ******* :character0009:
i was concerned about the areas around the drip rails with the polished trim and assumed it would be pretty far gone but i was actually pleasantly surprised with THOSE areas as well as the roof overall looks perfect. when the glass is pulled, we will have to see those hidden trim areas look.
driver side upper quarter "sail" panel is a little soft
the passenger side isnt as friendly
according to the owner, they do not make just these pieces only new quarters and since most of the quarter is fine, i'll end up making new ones. picking up some small tubing this week to start bracing the trunk to keep it true since the rear deck and trunk latch/ taillight area will get replaced and i'll just try and work from the back forward to lessen the chance of misalignment.
also sent off my gauge cluster to Redline Gauge works to have the ammeter converted over to a volt gauge. the amp gauge wouldnt have liked the higher amps from an alternator as well as i wouldnt have felt comfortable with a big amp gauge cable running through the cab, behind the dash like that. the cluster is in great shape, but they will be bench testing the gauges, cleaning and lubing the speedometer as well.
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dlcwent
Member Emeritus
You've got your work cut out for you on those sails. They look pretty rough.
Glad you're going to be able to proceed with though. But it'll cut into your time on the Chevy, or give you more money to get further ahead.
Glad you're going to be able to proceed with though. But it'll cut into your time on the Chevy, or give you more money to get further ahead.
yeah, its kind of a trade off. i usually try and keep regular money seperate from toy money but with the long, brutal winter i hadnt been doing much side stuff and was itching to get truck work done so i had been dipping into non-car money. the owner's been into hot rodding for 40+yrs, is a great mechanic and dabbles in body work but never got into the metal fabrication/welding side, so he's paying me for the sheet metal work he wants done but he's getting a kick out of the c10 and wants to dig into that to see it on the road. going to be some work, but im getting excited, even treating myself to some new tools!
no pics, but after days of sore knees and an achey back, the newest trans hump and driveshaft tunnel is done so i just need to make up my mind on what im doing for seat brackets and i can throw some paint in there and start wiring the cab. also went to town on the roof of the gto with a heat gun, scraper and stripper and got all of the vinyl top adhesive off. very happy with the condition, theres a few little high spot dings but for the most part, it look perfect, just need to wait for the glass guy to pull the glass out and i can start cutting into it, hopefully this weekend.
no pics, but after days of sore knees and an achey back, the newest trans hump and driveshaft tunnel is done so i just need to make up my mind on what im doing for seat brackets and i can throw some paint in there and start wiring the cab. also went to town on the roof of the gto with a heat gun, scraper and stripper and got all of the vinyl top adhesive off. very happy with the condition, theres a few little high spot dings but for the most part, it look perfect, just need to wait for the glass guy to pull the glass out and i can start cutting into it, hopefully this weekend.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Get some pics up as soon as time allows you to. Maybe you should start another thread on the goat. It shouldn't cut in on the C10.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Get those pics up for others to see. I'm not your only fan here.
After alot of procrastination and inconsistant work, my floor is all welded up, painted and ready for sound deadening and wiring! Havent heard back from redline gauges yet to see about my speedometer cluster and how that will cost, and also want to find something for some under dash interior lights and the stereo stuff. not alot of space under these seats with the electrics, so ill need to find a spot to hide a small speaker amp, as well as decipher how to wire the stock wiper motor to an aftermarket switch. i think i figured it out a few months ago and scribbled a pin out, i just need to remember what i figured out?
And some sound deadener
It says rattle trap on it, i though i bought fat mat,unless fat mat makes it? i bought a 50sqft roll, most of the floor is atleast double layered and it looks like i have enough to do the doors but ill probably have to buy more for the headliner and if i do the back of the cab wall.
And some sound deadener
It says rattle trap on it, i though i bought fat mat,unless fat mat makes it? i bought a 50sqft roll, most of the floor is atleast double layered and it looks like i have enough to do the doors but ill probably have to buy more for the headliner and if i do the back of the cab wall.
Did some work on the seat divider and console. i was originally going to weld the front console to the floor, but decided itd be easier to wire the shift indicator and aux buttons as well as not having to make trim pieces to secure the carpet down. Made some filler pieces and made it one piece, so far im happy enough with it, ill end up adding a skim coat of filler just to smooth some of the grind marks and transition pieces, but it should be minimal . still need to add some simple mounting tabs and get some shorter button heads screws since the ones i used for the shifter boot bezel are too long and is propping the whole thing up a bit.
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