Storage Cabinet Divider Removal

[CAMMShaft]

I recently picked up a few cabinets at a 2nd hand store. I am wondering if anyone has found a good way to remove the dividers? I don't plan to remove all of them as I know that they add to the structure and stability of the drawers.

Thanks!

CAMM

 

[BillK]

Wow, I would love to have a cabinet like that I think those dividers are going to be almost impossible to remove without doing some damage

 

[CAMMShaft]

Wow, I would love to have a cabinet like that I think those dividers are going to be almost impossible to remove without doing some damage

I am afraid you might be right, but I am hoping someone has some genius idea. They had three of these cabinets at the 2nd hand store and they are awesome, so I bought all three. I don't have enough small parts/tools to fill them and I am hoping to find a way to expand my options for using them.

CAMM

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

They possibly are spot welded in place. Might be possible to drill them out (or use a spot weld cutter).

 

[senlow]

Use a spot weld cutter. It is an annular cutter with a spring loaded pilot. Used carefully, it won't cut through the drawer bottom.

 

[LSU]

I think those cabinets stored microfilm rolls.

In the old days newspapers and other documents were microfilmed. The films were on spools/reels and were fed into a projector/reader and the microfilm was projected onto a screen on the bottom of the reader.

 

[CAMMShaft]

They possibly are spot welded in place. Might be possible to drill them out (or use a spot weld cutter).

Use a spot weld cutter. It is an annular cutter with a spring loaded pilot. Used carefully, it won't cut through the drawer bottom.

I will see if I can pull this off without damaging the bottom drawer. It will definitely take some patience.

I think those cabinets stored microfilm rolls.

In the old days newspapers and other documents were microfilmed. The films were on spools/reels and were fed into a projector/reader and the microfilm was projected onto a screen on the bottom of the reader.

That is my understanding as well. I live in Utah and a huge effort was made (and continues to be made) by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints to research genealogy, much of which was done with microfilm.

Thanks everyone for the tips/insight.

CAMM

 

[chrismenke]

I use those exact Russ Basset cabinets for hardware storage, with Akro Mils bins and bin cups. Fit perfectly between the dividers. Those dividers provide a lot of the rigidity that allowed these things to be filled with massive weights of microfilm. With them removed, I think the drawer load capacity goes way way down. I've found that between things like hardware, motorcycle carbs, bulbs, fuses, wiper blades, batteries, USB cables, household smalls, etc. I was able to organize a lot of my life into those.

These things are super well designed (drawer interlocks, massive weight capacity, leveling feet, etc.) but as you remove rigidity you may find the drawer bottom interfering with the drawer face below, increased tendencies to introduce racking, etc.

I've never had problems selling my extras for about $300 each, so you might consider moving them on whole, while they still have value, if they won't work for you.

 

[CAMMShaft]

I use those exact Russ Basset cabinets for hardware storage, with Akro Mils bins and bin cups. Fit perfectly between the dividers. Those dividers provide a lot of the rigidity that allowed these things to be filled with massive weights of microfilm. With them removed, I think the drawer load capacity goes way way down. I've found that between things like hardware, motorcycle carbs, bulbs, fuses, wiper blades, batteries, USB cables, household smalls, etc. I was able to organize a lot of my life into those.

These things are super well designed (drawer interlocks, massive weight capacity, leveling feet, etc.) but as you remove rigidity you may find the drawer bottom interfering with the drawer face below, increased tendencies to introduce racking, etc.

I've never had problems selling my extras for about $300 each, so you might consider moving them on whole, while they still have value, if they won't work for you.

Thanks Chris, great feedback. I guess I just need to grow my small hardware collection.

CAMM

 

[TJMtl]

Up to you, but I wouldn't hack at these. Maybe you can put bins with your loose fasteners from the 1st pic on the right. That could free up space for larger shelves for bigger items.

 

[Itinerant]

Hey Camm, I have one of those as well and I did remove some of the dividers from a few of the drawers to facilitate loading bulkier items. I haven’t had any issues and it’s been moved (loaded) twice about 800 miles each way.

 

[PFSard]

- Good luck on this.
- Kind of comical to me. I was looking to add that kind of functionality to a cabinet I had without using trays. I needed to store tools. Screwdrivers, pliers, ratchets, sockets etc. Ended up using cheap plastic trays.

 

[FredWanaker]

lay masonite on top of the ones you want gone. You lose depth but get your flat surface. You can even just use the masonite on the part of the drawer you need flat.

 

[Squashfest81]

I’d run a grinder down the front and back of the dividers and just bend the piece over flat.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

lay masonite on top of the ones you want gone. You lose depth but get your flat surface. You can even just use the masonite on the part of the drawer you need flat.

Could still use the space for storage of seldom used items or things related to whatever is on top. For example put 1/4" impact driver on the top and spare bits underneath.

 

[CAMMShaft]

Hey Camm, I have one of those as well and I did remove some of the dividers from a few of the drawers to facilitate loading bulkier items. I haven’t had any issues and it’s been moved (loaded) twice about 800 miles each way.

Thanks Itinerant, glad to know it works without a few dividers. How did you remove them?

CAMM

 

[CAMMShaft]

I’d run a grinder down the front and back of the dividers and just bend the piece over flat.

I thought about doing this, but I am worried I will not be able to get them flat. I may just give a try and see how it works out. Thanks for the suggestion.

CAMM

 

[Kurt4440]

I purchased 2 cabinets similar to what you have. I initially tried cutting the dividers out with a grinder. I did not like the results. I took a couple of hours and drilled out all of the spot welds with just a drill bit. After drilling through a dozen or so spot welds you will see a pattern to the welds and it will go quickly.
Please note: my cabinets apear to be older than yours and possibly thicker steel. You might want to try removing the dividets from one drawer and see if it is still ridgid enough for your intended use.

 

[Itinerant]

The dividers are not attached to the front or back of the drawer and so add little or no rigidity to the drawer itself. To remove the dividers, I simply bent them back and forth gently until the welds popped and then used a hammer and dolly to peen down the edges where the welds had been.

 

[CAMMShaft]

The dividers are not attached to the front or back of the drawer and so add little or no rigidity to the drawer itself. To remove the dividers, I simply bent them back and forth gently until the welds popped and then used a hammer and dolly to peen down the edges where the welds had been.

I'll give that a try.

Thanks!

CAMM

 

[csp]

You'll have a lot less tear out of the actual bottom if you drill the spot welds vs bending it back and forth to work harden the metal surrounding the welds.