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Store Bought Outfeed Table
- Thread starter Ryan
- Start date
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
It looks pretty sturdy and you can't beat it for the price. The drawers are shallow for shop use, but like you said they'll work for blade storage and I'm sure you'll come up with other stuff to fill them up.
OP
I might just build one deep drawer... I think it would be more flexible... I'll live with these shallow drawers first though.
What I would really like to figure out is a simple dust collector to mount on the bottom crossbar... Hell, one of these ****** HF jobs might be better than nothing (which is what I have presently)...
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-ga...do47Fn_yzcelpDWvkUSHdqVNuS1gQhZRoCz4kQAvD_BwE
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Could you combine the two drawers into one? Knock the bottom out of the top drawer, and then come up with a way to connect the sides so it all rolls in and out as one unit?
I've spent some time looking through the dust collector options at https://www.oneida-air.com They have some DIY solutions that look pretty good.
I've spent some time looking through the dust collector options at https://www.oneida-air.com They have some DIY solutions that look pretty good.
240sxguy
Well-known member
Looks to me like it's 229. I'd love a height adjustable workbench. I'm tall and sitting hunched over all the time stinks.
OP
Yes... And I think it's still a decent value at that price... Mine was discounted due to damage.
OP
It would be easier just to make a new drawer.
As for Oneida, those guys rule... I would love to have one of their stand alone units in my shop, I just don't have the budget and don't want to plumb my entire shop.
240sxguy
Well-known member
Definitely a no brainer then. I really like the idea of the outfeed table as I don't have a proper one for my unisaw.
I have one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002263L/?tag=atomicindus08-20
for my PM66, haven't had time to install it correctly - they started out around $300, been climbing ever since. There's NO WAY I'd have one at this price, one of the VERY few times I've lucked out on CL - guy had a Unisaw, had mine NIB never installed, saw's motor had smoked and he was downsizing after divorce, listed it on CL for $40.
Couldn't believe it was still there when I called, now all I need is yet another "TUIT" and it'll be sweet... Steve
Those HD benches look to be a decent deal, and a LOT more universal...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002263L/?tag=atomicindus08-20
for my PM66, haven't had time to install it correctly - they started out around $300, been climbing ever since. There's NO WAY I'd have one at this price, one of the VERY few times I've lucked out on CL - guy had a Unisaw, had mine NIB never installed, saw's motor had smoked and he was downsizing after divorce, listed it on CL for $40.
Couldn't believe it was still there when I called, now all I need is yet another "TUIT" and it'll be sweet... Steve
Those HD benches look to be a decent deal, and a LOT more universal...
83VillageRepair
Well-known member
I have one. It is pretty light duty as a workbench. I use mine as a desk in my home office.
OP
Yes... Not gonna wanna rebuild a ****** on this thing, but for wood working, it's plenty stout. Far more stout than I thought it was gonna be anyway...
rlitman
Well-known member
Plenty stout for an outfeed table. I use an adjustable height hospital table for my outfeed that's way flimsier. I put the crank end facing away from my tablesaw (hospital tables are only supported on one end so they can swing over a bed), and the saggy side facing the saw, with the table about 2' behind my saw.
The secret is that anything coming off my table is going to sag a little on its own. By the time it reaches the outfeed table, the front end of the outfeed needs to be well beneath the tablesaw height, or else my piece will crash into it. And I use the sagginess to my advantage, because the far side of the table is higher, and lifts the end of the workpiece as it slides back.
Of course, this isn't all that useful for short pieces, but for 8' long rips, I love it.
AZ Pete
Well-known member
I think that would make a very nice out feed table. The shallow drawers will be perfect for blades, rules, squares and zero clearance inserts. Might even be deep enough for a stacked dado set.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Do the wheels have brakes?
OP
Yes... My dado case doesn't fit... But I toss the case and kaizen them into the drawer... I'm leaning towards that rather than building a new drawer...
Yes.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Ryan, why didn’t you bring this up several days ago. I have a factory folding outfeed table for my unisaw. The one leg (or lack of a second one is allowing the corners to sag. Last Monday I bought a sheet of 3/4 mdf and rough cut to size to make a torsion box for an out feed cart and I was going to have some drawers underneath for saw blade storage.
I might be going to home cheepo tomorrow
I might be going to home cheepo tomorrow
I have the same table, but its the version without drawers. I use it for general work plus as an assembly table for my wood projects. I have a vacuum and a turbine under it for dust collection as well. When I am done with a project, I lower it a bit and it slides under my main bench. I am very happy with it.
Dumber than lumber
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2015
- Messages
- 1,871
Height adjustable? Have you looked at the Noden Adjust-A-Bench?
Very nice. You might be able to make something else that does the job, but it would take a long time to figure out the height adjusting mechanism.
OP
Looks like a nice table, if you have the space. Myself, I run out of room so the shop real estate is very important.
If you need an outfeed table, just buy a sheet of 3/4" melamine and build an outfeed table. I have one on my Delta contractor saw the hinges and drops down out of the way, flip it up, drop down the two fold up legs and I have a seven foot square table saw. I edge banded it with 1x2 to stiffen it. The saw is on a mobile base so I can push it off to the side so the boss can park her car in the gar...shop.
If you need an outfeed table, just buy a sheet of 3/4" melamine and build an outfeed table. I have one on my Delta contractor saw the hinges and drops down out of the way, flip it up, drop down the two fold up legs and I have a seven foot square table saw. I edge banded it with 1x2 to stiffen it. The saw is on a mobile base so I can push it off to the side so the boss can park her car in the gar...shop.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Does anyone have the 52" table without the drawers? Wondering if a 42" top chest would fit between the legs?
I have the Husky 52” adjustable without drawers. A 42” chest will sort of fit as there is 46” between the insides of the legs. However, as there is a cross bar across the middle between the two legs, the available depth for your tool box is only 10.5”.
If you can settle for adjusting the height by changing bolts on the four legs then there are lots of options that don’t have the center cross bar. However, for what I assume is for stability reasons, the crank adjustable ones seem to all have the center brace.
If you can settle for adjusting the height by changing bolts on the four legs then there are lots of options that don’t have the center cross bar. However, for what I assume is for stability reasons, the crank adjustable ones seem to all have the center brace.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
The 10.5” assumed that the toolbox is resting on the floor, so if you were standing in front of the table it is 10.5” from the front edge of the table to the front edge of the cross brace.
The cross brace is not wimpy, but I can’t see it supporting a tool box by itself. In my case, I have a 3/4” piece of plywood resting on the cross brace, and the plywood in turn supports a vacuum and a small trashcan that is set up as a Thein turbine/dust collector. And even for that light weight I added supporting brackets to the back of the legs to support the plywood. I would expect that you’d want to add height to the toolbox wheels so they carried the box’s weight and not the cross brace.
So far as height, as measured from the top of the cross brace to the bottom of the table, it’s roughly 25” to 35.5”. It’ll probably go a bit lower but it hits my vacuum and I didn’t want to move it. The table is 1.25” thick if you want to know the table height range.
The cross brace is not wimpy, but I can’t see it supporting a tool box by itself. In my case, I have a 3/4” piece of plywood resting on the cross brace, and the plywood in turn supports a vacuum and a small trashcan that is set up as a Thein turbine/dust collector. And even for that light weight I added supporting brackets to the back of the legs to support the plywood. I would expect that you’d want to add height to the toolbox wheels so they carried the box’s weight and not the cross brace.
So far as height, as measured from the top of the cross brace to the bottom of the table, it’s roughly 25” to 35.5”. It’ll probably go a bit lower but it hits my vacuum and I didn’t want to move it. The table is 1.25” thick if you want to know the table height range.
240sxguy
Well-known member
Very nice.
timmyisme22
Well-known member
I picked up a 72" as my computer desk last summer and it's great. Pop a 10mm hex socket and it's not motorized (just make sure to use your clutch). They don't get extremely high in height, but they hold more weight than most adjustables without getting too expensive (300lbs I believe) and would be fine for most. Still a bit wobbly at full height like most adjustables. The top is soft para wood (rubber tree), but you could replace with whatever you wanted, it does dent/scratch fairly easy.
This is one of those items that if you use a HD credit card, buy it with the 10-20% off that comes from time to time and enjoy (better if you score one of these damaged deals).For whatever reason, the black version of the 46 and 52 are $20 cheaper and have been for nearly a year.
I do recommend a non-drawer version if you plan to sit at it with legs under though. Stools should work find if spreading legs out a bit. Don't forget to put the cross brace to the back if deseired to fit stuff underneath as well (unless pushing against like with Ryan's table sawfitting neatly).
This is one of those items that if you use a HD credit card, buy it with the 10-20% off that comes from time to time and enjoy (better if you score one of these damaged deals).For whatever reason, the black version of the 46 and 52 are $20 cheaper and have been for nearly a year.
I do recommend a non-drawer version if you plan to sit at it with legs under though. Stools should work find if spreading legs out a bit. Don't forget to put the cross brace to the back if deseired to fit stuff underneath as well (unless pushing against like with Ryan's table sawfitting neatly).
Marctrees
Well-known member
Not poo pooing Ryans table, looks like a good deal, but here's what I did.
I have an original Bies fence on my saw.
So, there is an angle iron "ledge"on the back edge of the saw table.
So, I just have a interior door slab ($30) w a couple of 1/4" bolts that pin the door slab where it just rests on the angleiron ledge.
The door slab is stored against wall away from saw when not needed.
2 3/4" pipe floor flanges near the far end of the door w EMT 3/4" legs ( lighter than Rigid pipe)screwed in.
Obviously, this has limited weight capacity, but for me it works great and is cheap.
Door slab bolt pins have permanent shims to hold top side of door just a bit under tablesaw table height.
Marc
I have an original Bies fence on my saw.
So, there is an angle iron "ledge"on the back edge of the saw table.
So, I just have a interior door slab ($30) w a couple of 1/4" bolts that pin the door slab where it just rests on the angleiron ledge.
The door slab is stored against wall away from saw when not needed.
2 3/4" pipe floor flanges near the far end of the door w EMT 3/4" legs ( lighter than Rigid pipe)screwed in.
Obviously, this has limited weight capacity, but for me it works great and is cheap.
Door slab bolt pins have permanent shims to hold top side of door just a bit under tablesaw table height.
Marc
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Marctrees
Well-known member
If I reinforced my existing door slab w ribs underneath, and even also used a second pair of legs, the weight capacity could be easily made MUCH higher, but for my uses I do not need it.
Occasionally tilted motor and miter slot may complicate this setup.
Marc
Occasionally tilted motor and miter slot may complicate this setup.
Marc
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Be good for a bunch of purposes. Nice score!
hippie2cams
Well-known member
I so glad that I joined this forum, HELL they go shopping for you, thank you Ryan.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
row.inc
Member
I have two and love them! Portable, very sturdy and the adjustable height is great. Some folks use a cheap power drill instead of the crank. As at least a temporary storage solution I used upside down wire shelving stapled to an old length of oak hardwood flooring. One running end to end on each side, resting on top of the base over the rollers. What would be the front bottom edge is just the right height to create a level shelf.
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OP
Big A
Active member
I got all excited thinking this could be a good home office drawing table, the 2 drawers would be perfect for pencils, paper etc.
HD Canada has the tables, not the drawers... not available in Canada. WTF.
HD Canada has the tables, not the drawers... not available in Canada. WTF.
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Whiskeymike
Well-known member
My wife has one of these for her sewing machine and loves it. I would get additional if needed. It's sturdy, stable and the height adjustment is nice.
Hey Ryan, you have the SKU for that table ?