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Straight edge clamps.

NUTTSGT

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Since so many guys are in the process of building/remodeling their garages and shops, I'd suggest you spend a few bucks and buy one of these.



This is the 50" model which can reach across a 4x8 sheet of whatever. I wish I would have bought one years ago. No need to try to eyeball a line and try to make a straight cut, just mark each side, put the clamp on and run the circular saw across it.



I picked this up at Sears, making a short road trip for it, and had been thinking about them for awhile. This size is normally, $39.99, on sale for 30.99, using your Sears card will net another 5% off and if you have any points to use, it'll be less. I paid just under $25 for mine.

I'm in the process of building toy box for the grand daughter so I figured now is the time. They offer a wider one and a few different sizes.

Link to the one I bought.
http://www.sears.com/bora-50-in-straight-edge-clamp/p-00966423000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
 
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rieferman

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I totally agree, good post Eric. I have been meaning to add this to my arsenal for awhile. This is particularly useful for breaking down sheet goods or working remotely. Sure, a table saw can break down sheet goods (I find this cumbersome and risky), you can use clamps to attached a straight edge to guide your cut (I find this to be time consuming), or you can buy a track saw (can you say "pricey"?)... but this tool is so simple and effective that it's well worth the price for a nice professional cut.
 

teamextreme

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Dammit, I just bought what I thought was a nice aluminum straight edge because I got sick of using whatever 8 ft long piece of material I could find, 2x4, angle iron, etc, to clamp to the workpiece. I paid just as much for something similar to this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-8-ft-x-6-in-Pro-s-Edge-Wide-Aluminum-Cutting-Guide-900/100134266 and it's still just a straight edge that I have to mess with clamps to attach. Yours is genius. EDIT: Never mind, I just realized it will only reach across the 4 ft side. Still genius though, and my 8 ft one is still useful. I may have to pick one of those up.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Dammit, I just bought what I thought was a nice aluminum straight edge because I got sick of using whatever 8 ft long piece of material I could find, 2x4, angle iron, etc, to clamp to the workpiece. I paid just as much for something similar to this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-8-ft-x-6-in-Pro-s-Edge-Wide-Aluminum-Cutting-Guide-900/100134266 and it's still just a straight edge that I have to mess with clamps to attach. Yours is genius. EDIT: Never mind, I just realized it will only reach across the 4 ft side. Still genius though, and my 8 ft one is still useful. I may have to pick one of those up.

:headscrat

I searched HD's website to find one using a few different keywords. Following your link I can't even find a local price for one. I would most definitely keep what you have though as is good for the 8 foot stuff. :beer:
 

bullnerd

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I've had a few sets of those in different lengths for about 15yrs. Very handy! They make a double sided version also,clamp one side to your bench,the other side holds your work. I'll see if I can find the brand I have.
 

Mandres

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The problem with that design is that you still have to offset the line by the distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the foot of your saw.

I made a couple of sawboards similar to this one and they've been great No measuring, just line up the edge with your cut mark and run the saw against the fence. I have an 8ft version for long rips and a 4ft version with a cross piece on the bottom to act like a t-square.

http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/CuttingSheetGoods/ShopMadeGuide_Setup.gif
 
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DenisG

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Dammit, I just bought what I thought was a nice aluminum straight edge because I got sick of using whatever 8 ft long piece of material I could find, 2x4, angle iron, etc, to clamp to the workpiece. I paid just as much for something similar to this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-8-ft-x-6-in-Pro-s-Edge-Wide-Aluminum-Cutting-Guide-900/100134266 and it's still just a straight edge that I have to mess with clamps to attach. Yours is genius. EDIT: Never mind, I just realized it will only reach across the 4 ft side. Still genius though, and my 8 ft one is still useful. I may have to pick one of those up.

I also have the Empire guide like yours. I got the 50" guide (like the one NUTTSGT has) from Harbor Freight for ~$20. I believe that it's the same as the Sears one.

Occasionally I've goofed using it and the Skilsaw get under the edge messing the cut. The best guides are the real tracksaws -- like Festool, DeWalt and Makita, but they're quite a bit more money.
 

djjsr

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I got a few from Rockler. They're pretty handy. Set of three, 24". 36" and 50". Seems like they have them on sale often.

408319869.jpg


Edit - These are not real heavy duty, but they work fine for using with a circular saw or router.
 
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teamextreme

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:headscrat

I searched HD's website to find one using a few different keywords. Following your link I can't even find a local price for one. I would most definitely keep what you have though as is good for the 8 foot stuff. :beer:

I picked it up locally. Pretty sure it was HD, but maybe Lowes. Works well for 8 foot cuts, but I'm going to look at the OP's version for 4 foot cuts.

I also have the Empire guide like yours. I got the 50" guide (like the one NUTTSGT has) from Harbor Freight for ~$20. I believe that it's the same as the Sears one.

I was going to stop by HF tonight for some things, I'll have to see if they carry one.
 

usmc_noma

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I used a piece of aluminum and spring clamps for years, this is so much better and easier. :thumbup:

I've been doing this with two 4' pieces that merry together to make an 8' straight edge. As long as the spring clamps hold it is good, but if it doesn't then I start raising hell. :willy_nil
 

rharman

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I've had the Tru-Grip version of these for years. 2 each of each length and a pair of the 50" back-to-back. Could not live without them.

I also bought the Bora's - but only 1 of each length - some time ago. I like the swivel capability of the Bora's (up to 22-1/2 degrees).

For 8' cuts, I have a two-piece aluminum rail that has served me well. It works better if you put a backer board at the midway point like a Tee to stop any deflection. Pretty rare for me to do long rip cuts these days. If I only need one or two, I'll have them done at Home Depot when I buy the plywood.
 

DallasRusk

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I've used the kreg circular saw guide for 8' cuts. it works great.

kreg-B007K5HIFS-KMA2675-main-sm.jpg


you can also make a simple circular saw long cut guide out of a couple pieces of ply.

cut-straight-3-0908.jpg
 

csp

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I cut a block of wood that's the width of the saw shoe and clamp that to the board at the cut line, then **** the clamp up against the block to avoid measuring the offset every time. It's faster and avoids adding fractions incorrectly.

My wife bought me the same one the OP has for Xmas a few years ago and it was invaluable when I built cabinets for my garage build.
 
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Mazdaspeed

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I find the clamp isn't quite firm enough of the one I have (princess auto version)...doesn't slip but doesn't grab as much as I'd like. Does a decent job at it though. Always used to use a straight edge and clamps which was nice because you could usually tap gently to get things lined up while the clamps were snug which you can't really do with these things.
 

rburke65

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Maunders is correct. The video say to align the straight edge "to your mark". Then shows the circular saw ripping the sheet. Doesn't say anything about measuring for an offset. A little shady in my opinion. Product my be ok, just the video isn't really up front.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I got a few from Rockler. They're pretty handy. Set of three, 24". 36" and 50". Seems like they have them on sale often.

408319869.jpg


Edit - These are not real heavy duty, but they work fine for using with a circular saw or router.

Those look like the one I saw on Menard's website. I considered getting one of those but the Bora can be used up to 22° angle. I couldn't see anything in the description on Menard's site for those. Are they capable of clamping at an angle ?
 

Slednut

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So you can clamp them at an angle, really could have used one last weekend, was installing t-111 on the gable end of the back of our addition (4-12 slope). I used a couple of clamps and a piece of siding.
 

rharman

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I also have the Rockler set.....and I find me using them as a plain straight edge for marking....

Mine get used regularly as a straightedge for marking or to use with a utility knife.

Quickie router table fence too.
 

66dave

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I've used the kreg circular saw guide for 8' cuts. it works great.

kreg-B007K5HIFS-KMA2675-main-sm.jpg


you can also make a simple circular saw long cut guide out of a couple pieces of ply.

cut-straight-3-0908.jpg

The lower image is the bomb. Seriously it will give you a zero clearance cut eliminating chip-out. The chip-out can be seen in the OP lower image. Plus it is super cheap, nice job,:rocker:
 

Exceller8

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alinc100

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With a little creativity and some time you can have the best of both worlds.
I mounted the straightegde clamp into a plywood/laminate/hardwood sheet along with 3/16" lexan for the zero clearance and now I do not have to screw the guide to my work. There are no clamps in the way of the saw,no offset/math,measuring allowances needed. I can mark exactly where I want to cut,score with a razor knife if needed and run my circular saw down the cut line.
SawGuide1r.jpg

SawGuide2r.jpg

SawGuide3r.jpg

SawGuide4r.jpg
 

Kevin54

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Are they self aligning, or is there room for error? By that, I mean that if you draw a mark on one side, will the clamp be aligned across the 48" or is there not enough bearing surface to do that? Like a drywall square, it has a long enough surface at the head to be square to the panel. I guess I need one wither way, whether it will align itself or not. It's really no big deal to make a mark at both sides and clamp to the marks. The way mine looks freehanding the saw, is like a drunk driver running off the road in 48":lol:
 

brownbagg

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there one called ez clamp that you do not have to offset, the saw rides in a cradle on the straight edge. it very popular in the cabinet making circles
 

BikerDad

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A simple thing to do if you're using one of the straight clamps is write the offset (for each side of the blade) on your saw using a Sharpie. You can also write it on the clamp if that's the way you roll. That way, you'll always know what it is.

As far as making sure you're getting a 90d cut, use a large Speedsquare when setting the clamp. Works for me.
 

BikerDad

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Are they self aligning, or is there room for error? By that, I mean that if you draw a mark on one side, will the clamp be aligned across the 48" or is there not enough bearing surface to do that? Like a drywall square, it has a long enough surface at the head to be square to the panel. I guess I need one wither way, whether it will align itself or not. It's really no big deal to make a mark at both sides and clamp to the marks. The way mine looks freehanding the saw, is like a drunk driver running off the road in 48":lol:

No, they are not self-aligning. And don't try to use a drywall square for this particular purpose, or your t-square will be soon be a very short armed T.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Are they self aligning, or is there room for error? By that, I mean that if you draw a mark on one side, will the clamp be aligned across the 48" or is there not enough bearing surface to do that? Like a drywall square, it has a long enough surface at the head to be square to the panel. I guess I need one wither way, whether it will align itself or not. It's really no big deal to make a mark at both sides and clamp to the marks. The way mine looks freehanding the saw, is like a drunk driver running off the road in 48":lol:

Not self aligning and I wish I would have bought mine years ago.
 
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