straightening a bow in a stud...

[Innovate1]

I cut some long exterior studs that were bowed and sistered one beside to straighten. Should have checked the interior more carefully before I got the 1/2" ply put up (by someone else). Found a pretty good wow in a wall that is getting a sink and countertop. It's on a stud at a break in the panels. I pulled one side and was thinking I might pry the other up a bit and slip in there with a circular saw to trim down the high spot. But on further thought I think it would be better to pull the other sheet, pull the nails (they pull through) and go at the stud. It's getting FRP over the ply so so issue with a few extra holes in the plywood.

I could throw some caulk on it but it's not that hard to fix now. There will still be a little wave in the end but not nearly as bad.

 

[Dustball]

Electric planer

 

[The Cobbler]

cut thru the stud and wedge it straighter with a wood shim , scab something to the side

 

[Steve in UT]

cut thru the stud and wedge it straighter with a wood shim , scab something to the side

I did similar to this, cut partially through, wedged it straight and screwed a simpson strap to the face of the 2x4.

 

[Innovate1]

Electric planer

Yep. I have one and the stud is a 2x6 so plenty of meat. And its a 8' interior wall. Once I pull the other sheet I can do that pretty easily. The tough part may be pulling the other sheet - it is overlapped by the mezzanine ceiling plywood at the top and has a couple of sink pipes at the bottom.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

If it's sistered directly to a straight stud, I would us an electric planer first to sneak up on getting it straight then a router with a bearing piloted trim bit to flush it up with the straight stud.

 

[CraigStu]

Can you cut and pull just part of that next sheet? Go one stud over, pull the nails, set the circular saw to a depth that will just cut the sheet and cut it right in the middle of that stud. You may need an oscillating tool to finish the cut at the top and bottom.

 

[Innovate1]

Can you cut and pull just part of that next sheet? Go one stud over, pull the nails, set the circular saw to a depth that will just cut the sheet and cut it right in the middle of that stud. You may need an oscillating tool to finish the cut at the top and bottom.

That's a good idea although there would be several inches at each end to do with an oscillating tool. I have found them to be slow going in anything but very soft wood. But you have given me some ideas. Since the top and bottom ends are fine I could cut across near the top and bottom and do it all with a circular saw. It will all be covered by FRP so a few cuts won't matter.

Pipes and wires make it difficult to sister a stud as a guide. Was thinking of using a chalk line to snap a line. The paneling will cover an minor unevenness.

 

[ford33]

Portable electric planer is the easy solution.

 

[nadogail]

My portable $20 electric planer has saved my posterior more than a few times.

 

[240sxguy]

My portable $20 electric planer has saved my posterior more than a few times.

I bought a crappy one at HF for some renovation work that I was sure would render it garbage. That dang thing is so handy! It held up beautifully and is still alive and kicking.

 

[ez-duzit]

Replace the stud. This should have been done at the framing stage.

 

[rburke65]

If the HF planers are anything like their 4 1/2” grinders, sounds like an inexpensive solution.

 

[dcg9381]

cut thru the stud and wedge it straighter with a wood shim , scab something to the side

This is how I've seen them do it on residential here... Not sure it's the "correct" way, but I've got a few studs that are done this way.

 

[Innovate1]

Replace the stud. This should have been done at the framing stage.

If any stud (or other lumber for that matter) with a slight bow or twist was rejected you would have lots of scrap. Great in theory but not practical.

I think part of the problem is the stud next to it is bowed a bit the other way which makes the evenness worse. But a bit of power plane work should make it reasonable. I did look at this and can cut out the needed panel with some horizontal cuts near the top and bottom and get at things pretty easily. Only problem I see is cutting down the center of the stud. The nails are smaller head nail gun nails so hard to pull out. I could just cut through them with a carbide circular saw blade but then would hit them with the power plane. I will see if I can dig them out.

 

[ez-duzit]

If any stud (or other lumber for that matter) with a slight bow or twist was rejected you would have lots of scrap...

If it were only a slight bow it would not be a problem.

Any contractor worth his salt replaces warped studs before sheathing, not after. If you buy your studs from the lowest bidder you can expect a high rate of rejection.

 

[Git]

Drywall shims/and a portable electric planer

Those who are saying to replace a warped/slightly bowed stud must be living in a different universe than me. Just about all studs have a 'crown' (slight bow). The trick is to line them up so that all the crowns are facing in the same direction and then you either plane or shim them flat using a string or a 10' straight edge or something similar as a reference

Drywall shims get stapled to the edge of the stud

 

[Innovate1]

Drywall shims/and a portable electric planer

Those who are saying to replace a warped/slightly bowed stud must be living in a different universe than me. Just about all studs have a 'crown' (slight bow). The trick is to line them up so that all the crowns are facing in the same direction and then you either plane or shim them flat using a string or a 10' straight edge or something similar as a reference

Drywall shims get stapled to the edge of the stud

Interesting. I hadn't seen these for sale but it makes sense. I have used thin plywood or some thick solid (not corrigated) cardboard on occaision and/or plane down the slightly high ones. Just found them at the local Menards as well.
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/drywall/shims-trims/menco-royal-36-drywall-shims-50-pieces/1311167/p-1444439449587.htm
I obviously should have looked at this before sheathing. Others put that up and they were just interested in getting done and slapped it up. In most places a slight wave in the wall isn't a big deal and won't ever be noticed. This is in a sink area so need a fairly straight wall to match up with the back of the counter.

 

[Innovate1]

Pulled some of the paneling. One stud was a little low and one a little high so next to each other they made a noticeable "whoop" in the wall. Planed one down slightly and used some scrap vinyl flooring for a shim on the low one. Wall is nice and straight now - very pleased with how it turned out.

I keep a few scraps of vinyl flooring around for shims. It's a bit thicker than most cardboard so with one or the other it works for most things.

 

[CraigStu]

Glad you got it fixed.