Straightening Frame/Bumper

[paulsomlo]

I could use some ideas - maybe there's a tool out there that I don't know about. This is a Subaru Outback that got rear ended and the part where the structural bumper fits into the frame got distorted. It's a box section and the bumper registers to only the upper wall with two bolts on each side of the car. The bumper doesn't touch the lower wall, so it's not critical. I've tried using a heavy steel u-section on the inside, bolted to a bearing surface on the outside, with a bolt to draw things together. I moved things a little, but not enough. I have access to the end and partial access to the upper wall through the trunk. I've tried a jack under the structural bumper, but it just raises the car. I know there are hydraulic gadgets that body shops use, but I don't know if anything will fit the geometry I'm working with.

The third pic from the left shows the inside upper surface of the boxed section. The forward most two holes retain the bumper. The front one needs to be pushed back up, the rear one needs to be pulled down.

The last pic shows the access I have from the trunk.

 

[txvwnut]

There’s such a thing as a frame rail hammer but I don’t know if it small enough to fit your needs.

 

[paulsomlo]

Not finding much on the internet that would tell me what that is. I see there is something called The Railsaver http://therailsaver.com/rail-saver/, but it can only push dents from inside out. I've got one area that needs to be pushed out, and one that needs to be pushed back in.

 

[kbs2244]

A pull type hydraulic cylinder??

 

[paulsomlo]

A pull type hydraulic cylinder??

Don't have the access.

I took it to two body shops today; they both said they would put it on a frame machine, put the structural bumper back on, chain down the car and jack up on the bumper, $250 - $350.

Problem is, the car (which is not mine) has other issues and I'm not sure it's worth putting the money into.

 

[paulsomlo]

Will heating the area enough to move metal cause damage?

 

[APEowner]

I've used a piece of 2" x 4" 1/4" wall tubing as a makeshift frame bench. Slide it under the car and chain the car to it. Then put the jack between the tubing and the bumper.

If you don't have the tubing, chains and whatever clamps or hooks you need to attach the car to the tubing you might be better off to just have the body shop do it. The other thing the body shop can do quickly is measure to make sure they've got stuff where it belongs after the pull.

It's going to be very difficult to get the right amount of heat in the right places to make that move and, it's really not recommended.

 

[paulsomlo]

I've used a piece of 2" x 4" 1/4" wall tubing as a makeshift frame bench. Slide it under the car and chain the car to it. Then put the jack between the tubing and the bumper

Great suggestion - there was a convenient place to loop a piece of chain through on the underside of the vehicle. Before, the bumper was off at least an inch, now it's within 3/16". It's not perfect, but now at least I can line up all the fasteners and get it back together. Considering that it's a 2003 w/207,000 miles and rusted through in three places, it's good enough - thanks APEowner!

 

[APEowner]

Nice job. I'm glad I could help.

 

[Rory Bellows]

Great suggestion - there was a convenient place to loop a piece of chain through on the underside of the vehicle. Before, the bumper was off at least an inch, now it's within 3/16". It's not perfect, but now at least I can line up all the fasteners and get it back together. Considering that it's a 2003 w/207,000 miles and rusted through in three places, it's good enough - thanks APEowner!

Nice! I am going to lock this somewhere in my head and hopefully I can pull it out in the future if needed.