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Strapping on rafters?

andrew978

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Sep 18, 2015
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14
I'm knee deep, 8 days in on getting my shed done and have run into a little issue. I'm off about 1/2 on the rafter spacing on the right side of the shed. The left side is ok and runs clean 16" OC.

20151019_094440_001.jpg


Since I am doing this alone, I'd rather not have to drop a chalk line and cut these roof boards at an angle to meet OC. [ its 16" OC on top but by the time I get to the wall plate its 17". I used a nail gun to tie in the rafters and they can't be demo''d out] .

I'm thinking wouldn't it be easier for when dealing with uneven rafter spacing to just run a 1x3 stringer across the 20' and then space it 12"?

This way it doesn't matter where the rafters are, I could just square up to the stringers and then lay down the 5/8 ZIP system. I'm treating this like an old building where the rafters have spaced out a bit so the stringer evens it up.

I'm concerned if the nail strong on the stringer through the 5/8 to the ridge beam will be enough to hold the dead and live load?
 
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CNGsaves

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KS and OK
^ ^ +1 just re-do them if you only have those 3 rafters up there.

Overall, pretty nice looking shed. Curious why no HEADERS over windows ??
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
Use a sawzall and cut the nails and reposition the rafters. It won't take very long. Also wondering about the lack of headers.
 

T_R

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Just knock them up a bit with a hammer, stick a sawzall with a metal blade in the gap, cut the nails and reposition. That how I fix framing goofs.
 
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Cyberbear

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Nov 23, 2013
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I think you'll be fine w/o headers over the windows for such a short span, but you may wish to add a rim joist for the floor/ceiling joists for good measure.
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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I wouldn't worry about lack of headers either, its a short span and its only a shed.
Fix the spacing issue now while you can, cause if you don't it will always be wrong, unless you have one side of the shed longer than the other, where I would add an extra rafter to make up the difference.
 
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andrew978

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Sep 18, 2015
Messages
14
Sorry that was an older photo. Updated photo: thanks for the help.

20151025_084627.jpg


With a 7ft span headers weren't necessary. I still may add them not sure since alot of people are asking why they are not there.

All of the rafters are installed and not only over-nailed by an over zealous nail gun operator (me) but have LRUZ Strongties in there as well. The bottom of the rafters are also nailed into the loft joists. It would take me a week to correct this with all the sawing an hanging up 15' off the ground with a harness on.

Had someone mention a solution that does not require removing any boards. Will snap a chalk line, overlay the two boards and then cut. I thought it would be easier to maybe add the stapping, or even some blocks inbetween the rafters where I needed a nail.

I could also just sister a 2x6 rafter (these are 2x10) where needed. unless I'm missing something, the only point of have 16" OC is so that the 4x8 sheets line up perfect. The shed is already overbuilt as the plans called for 2x6 and I'm using 2x10's and I added the ridge beam. The loft floor joists are 2x8.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 

mikegt4

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Sep 12, 2005
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3,265
Location
sw ohio
Sorry that was an older photo. Updated photo: thanks for the help.

20151025_084627.jpg


With a 7ft span headers weren't necessary. I still may add them not sure since alot of people are asking why they are not there.

All of the rafters are installed and not only over-nailed by an over zealous nail gun operator (me) but have LRUZ Strongties in there as well. The bottom of the rafters are also nailed into the loft joists. It would take me a week to correct this with all the sawing an hanging up 15' off the ground with a harness on.

Had someone mention a solution that does not require removing any boards. Will snap a chalk line, overlay the two boards and then cut. I thought it would be easier to maybe add the stapping, or even some blocks inbetween the rafters where I needed a nail.

I could also just sister a 2x6 rafter (these are 2x10) where needed. unless I'm missing something, the only point of have 16" OC is so that the 4x8 sheets line up perfect. The shed is already overbuilt as the plans called for 2x6 and I'm using 2x10's and I added the ridge beam. The loft floor joists are 2x8.

Thanks for the help everyone.

WOW, that is way overbuilt (and over thought). If your rafters are nailed to the joists and are not square to the ridge beam then something is not measured or positioned correctly. Did you check that the corners of the shed are square measuring in a X pattern before starting the roof?

I don't think that I would worry about window headers on a small shed.
 
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