Strawberry steamer

[sberry]

Finally, been waiting to score some free stuff. I have had a portable hot pressure washer a long time ago. I really should have bought a new one and stuck in the back of the berry truck.
I am going to bolt this thing together and see what I got. The truck has insulated body and I have 2 250 poly water tanks that will slide in the back.
It will be able to run 2 hrs steady with on board water and am going to make a manifold from cpvc, pull from either tank or both, load either one, maybe top load from common well and be able to hook on to village water. Got to have a plumbed in overflow and vent, ha.

 

[sberry]

Its got electric start. I can park inside in bitter weather, the box and setup is actually quite ideal for this and will make it slide in, bracket or strap down. If it was being used commercial I would put 135 ft of hose on it. For washing a 3/8 will work, a 1/2 is nice for flooding hot water out. I will probably score a reel and 100 ft.
Its mostly for my own work. Its got its own on board fuel, as little use as it will get that wont be an issue. Already got a little gas can for the engine. There is plenty of headroom to simply turn the exhaust outward with the door open, pretty much self contained on its own skid where I can plumb the water to it and the hose reel from it and reach most controls while standing on the ground.
Maybe some simple levers to reach a couple valves.

 

[sberry]

I am going to be able to bypass the unloader so I can pressure test. The burner is 385K and only 4 gpm, I bet it heats it nice and toasty and has to turn off on thermal? My other one is 5 gpm and 350k and the burner runs steady, I don't have a thermometer on it but I doubt it reaches 200. I spose I could turn the thermostat down and see where it shuts off?

 

[dr_clyde]

Why do you need to steam strawberries?

 

[sberry]

Not really going to steam them, more like hot pressure wash.

 

[sberry]

Got a few pieces off the floor, may fix and wire the burner tomorrow and am waiting on the carb. All the belts on and bolted in.
I really need to get back to this gearbox in the morning.

 

[toplessHO]

whats this for killing e coli?
how does the high heat affect the taste,freshness etc of the fruit?

 

[ilovevocs]

Subbed

 

[Socal 610]

Water destroys Strawberries! Are you making Strawberry Marmalade, or Moonshine?

 

[sberry]

Ok, I took some pics and its been a while since I did all this type of thing and don't have a service manual but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[sberry]

Chuck being the licensed boiler operator that he was by passed the fuel solenoid. I have a manual for my Alkota but havnt opened it recently but what is the fuel solenoid wired to, thermostat I assume? I think so , the Alkota has several versions similar.
OKI didn't follow the wire from that valve, some kind of no flow? The valve in first 2 pics, the piece with the hose pressure relief, whats he little booger and what is the top part of it?
I am going to want to read or have it all splained to me again of how the mechanical unloader works???
I see the thermostab bulb loose, I assume it may have got taped to the hot water pipe as I don't see a well. Ok, the fitting for it is in, duh. Chuck also skipped the alternator due to the fact he ran it at home on occasion and used an extension cord to the burner as well as bungee strap holding it together.

 

[sberry]

I am waiting on the carb yet, might, migt work on the burner a little and hook my unit up to test it all out.

 

[sberry]

I was tempted to get a pic but not much to see. I hooked my pump to it, the unloader works and I fired the burner. It ran clean but didn't want to restart right and will look in to the tune up.
I see the solenoid was bypassed but that looks like it was due to a wiring issue they didn't want to fix. I am going to hook it all back up stock. I figured out how to make a simple bypass for pressure testing, I will have to move a hose connection but it will be a rather rare event, if it takes a few minutes its no big deal.

 

[koditten]

Trying to get up to speed on this. I'm inferring that the fuel solenoid is tied to the flow or thermostat switch. If you got no flow because the pump is by passing, there is a good chance that you can burn a hole in the exchanger tubing. It is quite thin and it would be almost impossible to repair. The exchanger is multiple coils and they never go bad on an accessible point.

When you let go of the trigger, the burner needs to shut off before damage can occur.

There are nice units and are pretty easy to work on. Please make it come back to life.

I'm curious, what does Chuck being a licenced boiler operator have to do with the operation of this thing? I'm a licenced boiler operator. This is not a boiler in the true sense of the definition. It's just a fancy heat exchanger.

 

[sberry]

Yes, the controls were by passed so Chuck could get er done. I have actually repaired a couple coils back in the day. It all works, he had eliminared the fuel due to the fact he didn't want to repair the electric, there was a broken wire or something.
This was all just a ramble and its all going to work. I pressure tested the coil and checked the unloader. Will put the solenoid back in.
Now that I am fairly sure its going to work will start on the truck part. I wouldn't mind having it running at the end of the week or so.

 

[sberry]

I have another unit, now I want a self contained portable in an insulated truck. So far the biggest expense will be a new hose and reel.

 

[fatfillup]

Just found the thread. What questions do you have.

Couple of things. The burner must turn off when the trigger is shut off or flow stopped. Steam explosion of violent proportions will occur. It can be shut off via stoppage of fuel flow via the solenoid or shutting the entire burner off.

I cannot identify who's unloader or flow switch they are using. Can't remember ever seeing them before. Could be Hotsy's proprietary parts.

Not sure I understand what you are trying to accomplish. Are you just making hot water or do you want it under pressure. Or a little of both. I'll try to check in if you have specific questions.

Oh, plumbing from the tank to the machine. First, all connections must be 100%. If the pump gets the chance to **** air it will not pump water. Second, minimum of 3/4" hose. Larger if you like. Third, that old pump may need help catching prime. You can put a high pressure ball valve past the pump or unloader on a tee and open the valve before you start the engine. That will relieve restrictions on the pump and it will prime easier. Once water starts to flow good, shut off the valve.

Put an flu pipe elbow, 8" and point it out the door if you are not going to install a permanent stack.

 

[sberry]

Yes, I tested thes olonoid and tested the burner and did not let off the gun. I am familiar with most of this except what the wire is that the lead in the pic screws to? Is it some magnetic deal?
So far I have come up with that I can simply add another T in to suction similar to the unloader and a needle valve which under normal operation remains closed and if I wasn't to pressure test with this I can remove the pressure line that goes to the go around the unloader thru a T using the needle as relief to regulate pressure. I could actually splice the hose around thru and add a pressure to suction.
I am going to minimize this circuit and don't care if I got to stop to move a hose or re plumb. It keeps the machine mostly stock and operating correctly and prevents absolute deadheading a pressure vessel in a test. OK, still allows a variable closed pressure test.
I am going to put new hose on post pump anyway, could make it long enough to reach bypass.

 

[sberry]

I got a number 50 mesh strainer to keep the big chunks out but found this stock tank valve sposed to flow 20 gpm. I don't know about that but got a bulkhead and going to stick it in so I can hose fill unattended.
It cost like 35 dollars at a dealer for the pos cheap plastic kit but it will save a lot of design time vs trying to come up with something from scrap.

 

[sberry]

I bought gouged a leg and should have rigged the flip up easier but this and the other tank will fit with their existing rig ups. When this is all done it will be able to be converted in about an hour.

 

[fatfillup]

The wire that screws into the block is likely the flow switch for shutting off the burner when flow is stopped. And it would be a plunger inside the block with a magnet in it. When water flows, the plunger moves far enough forward for the reed switch to be pulled closed by the magnet sending current to the solenoid.

Didn't quite follow your thoughts on the needle valve and pressure testing but you certainly can add a tee any where on the outlet side of the pump and a guage and valve and check pressure. We just have a gauge on a tee and quick couplers we stick right before the gun to test pressure.

You can also run your bypass hose back into the big tanks to keep the water from overheating if allowed to run in bypass too long. This works great unless you want high pressure soap because you would bypass soap back into your tank when you shut the trigger off.

As far as the tanks, the biggest thing is to make sure all your inlet connection are tight, no sucking air.

 

[sberry]

I built about 6 of these custom for oil field. They didn't use an unloader but only a needle valve and flow was constant, no trigger on the gun. It was kind of primitive but rerally worked well with skilled operators and they used them for injection work on pressure lines, inject fresh water or light brine. It also allowed one to pressure it up for testing or to vary the pressure for washing. I am going to make a circuit to go around the unloader and be able to regulate it with the needle if that makes more sense, I will simply unhook the pump pressure hose and move it if I need to test a true vessel pressure test.
Having to move a hose will prevent a mistake , put to many valves in it and its asking for trouble. The idea of running bypass back to tank might even make this easier.
It already has a gage plumbed in and we suspected the thingy had a magnet in it to run a switch for the burner, that's the confirmation I was after and was curious about.

 

[fatfillup]

I understand better now,,,,,,,,,,,you had me stumped with the needle valve.

 

[sberry]

Right, just going to use a valve to adjust the pressure. I will have change 2 hoses to do it. I do not see why I would have to go thru the coil for pressure test, , could undo the hose reel and connect it to the pressure, in a sense this is simply going around the unloader.
My explanations leave something to be desired plus the fact I am designing as I go and just found a new gas valve for free to another project. I have 15 month old with 2 different size shoes on my lap. My brother scored 2 valves/male cam locks on at discount that will make this a bit easier. One of my issues is I am going to plumb another 2 inch suction port on for a fire pump. I had a bigger hose and it hanging around a 750 gallon on another old truck but was weather sensitive and inconvenient to maintain. I can incorporate this additional pump and keep it all in this insulated box, can electric heat it in storage, can drain the whole thing, can pull it in the shop if we are working it or even anti freeze the pump.
I will downsize the fire hose to 100 ft of 3/4 heavy duty garden hose I can leave coiled and connected and used as a fill or water supply for the pressure washer, all 2 for 1. I am however putting in a port to go to tank with float so I can fill unattended. The valve I bought is rated 20 gpm, I don't know pressure but my ideal system is enough so my well runs steady and doesn't cycle while filling tanks.

 

[sberry]

I am going to be a casual user, about like my welding, 95% at home in shop with built in equipment but there are a few odd jobs I want to do and there is just plain no better way to start renovation than washing.
I might not do all this cept for I already got an insured super insulated truck body even better than the steamer company has.
If it was winter and jammed for time again would consider buying a new unit and sticking it in and working enuf to cover the cost till I did the available work and tired of it anyway.
This old steamer will give this some character and look a little like showing up with the half worn welder.
I can make a hose rack on ceiling, maybe score a piece of hose for hooking on water in town.

 

[sberry]

I figured out my water manifold now. So far spent only about 50 I didn't need and the parts I have extra are not queer. I am going to buy a couple more pieces and it gives me enough stuff I can keep in a box can make any adapter up I want, I can keep my fire pump plumbed in except if I want to load from a water tower, unhook it with a cam lock and drain the whole truck.
I have been holding my breath ordering a hose and reel, in another couple days will have a chance to set this plumbing and get a pic. I went in search of some 2 inch threaded male adapters and was out of luck then ran across a box of 10 gray electric ones. ha. I am going to tie the vent together with some scrap pipe and some furnco so I can still unscrew the tank covers.
The things have a coarse barrel bung thread and I don't have a 2 inch pipe tap but going to simply JB an adapter in it and make it way more user friendly.

 

[sberry]

While I was sitting here brewing a new coffee I figured out how to file this tank lid out to a more suitable adapter. I will do the other one so it fully fits in. At first it didn't look like it would cut well for some reason then I went back at it and took just a couple minutes to file it out.
I will mix up a gob of epoxy, JB quick maybe and stick it in. I do not have a 2 inch tap, I might try to score one at engine show
When I used this tank before I top filled and had a cheater for withdraw.
I have been sitting here working out some problems to make it less work while better while not having a huge hardware at hand.

 

[sberry]

If it was just the steamer with simple hose fill I would have used rubber to connect it. I am rigging this other pump along side it. Most of this is relative quick connect and I was trying to reduce the complexity of the manifold.

 

[sberry]

I found these chunks of angle, they had some holes and I blew a few more and it will allow for bold down options, I am going to set it on 2 6x6 bolsters and bolt thru to the body frame.
I have the truck outside, its been nice and natural light is so much nicer this time of year and it makes its own shade.
I been collecting, now its really assembly time after I finish cleaning the burner housing and fan.

 

[sberry]

Ok, got some stuff done, dicking around let me get it to super simple with all the features. My helper and I piddled with it yesterday and took the burner all apart, adjust the electrodes which were jambed in, I need a drive coupling I see and we re test it all with my uniot as the supply and figure out the unloader had a problem. It has been froze, we got it working but now want to replace it.
The no flow had froze, we reshaped the parts and got it working. Its nothing to write home about and as far as I can tell I can buy a new unloader with no flow for 77$. I need to look back at the switch ratings but I was looking for a forum for a bit of tech discussion. I see the unloaders all have hi ratings, I assume they can all be turned down for the pump?
I might want to descale the coil, have another pump for the acid.
I also figured as fillup mentioned to add a T which would aid prime but could also put a coupling on and essentially plumb around the coil if I want.
If I had my choice would have opted for a size larger engine to start with but even though its some work and I will be stuck with junk when I am done the cash in will be relatively minor.
I was looking for pump and unloader in this range but most are a class bigger.

 

[sberry]

I decided it better have a belt gard on the short list. Got the tank supply plumbed as short as possible. The 2 inch cam lock is the hook on to the fire pump, the drain and the water tower fill. I have one more port going in for well fill with a float.
I have a couple repairs to make to the truck should have been made long ago and I am far enough along I can fill it with water as a fire truck.
BTW, there is another section of exhaust going on the burner that will get it to the door, custom cut once we set the unit. The piece of cardboard is most of the template.

 

[sberry]

I spose a guy could acid coils with an all plastic garden sprayer as a pump. ??? I have part of a jug I bought some time ago but don't spose it is a great expense at the wholesale house. I hear there are video on the internet about how to do it but some are not always the best ideas.
You gotta run what you brung and this is what I got. In a perfect world this would have been 13 hp. I got a 16 liq Kawasaki on a comp would have been nice for this too.
For giggles I looked at some dealer inventory on my old shop crate and was surprised to see if it worked it looked like 3 grand and a zip of paint wouldn't hurt.
I see a Northern unit that lists for about 4500 gas drive.

 

[sberry]

I will add some more pics of the finished build. I just ordered a few parts to refine some loose ends and add some redundancy. I am reviving the thread due to the fact I will move on and loose interest shortly but I used it twice. First time about 5 minutes and today cleaned a little brick wall and then washed a little heavy equipment for about an hour and despite being only 11 hp we will see how long it lasts with me wringing the **** out of it but it worked pretty well.
It might be worth the learning curve to do the reman before buying a unit or upgrading. Building is cheap if you got time, slow and often a little painful but it doesn't have a paynment, I got about a weeks real work although it occupied my time for 2 and 400$ in parts including my mistakes and it works decent enough no one gives it a second thought it should be any better.
BTW, had the truck up before I put all the equipment in it.