stringing an overhead line from house to garage

[andrew240z]

I am looking to run a cat 5 cable from the house out to the garage, wireless hasnt been working so great. Its a short run, probably no more than 25'. I searched and didnt find any discussion about running overhead lines. Is there a reason this is a bad idea? thinking maybe two cat 5 cables from the corner of the house up and then over to the garage. any tips or ideas how to make it work easier/better?

 

[Milton Shaw]

Copper wire will not support itself run overhead, its always run with a steel wire along with it. I would use something like 3/16 stainless wench cable type wire. Make sure it is grounded so you don't pick up stray currents and get computers you are hooking to. It normally is twisted like the tri-plex that utilities run power into house on. I'm not an electrician and don't know if codes say anything about Cat5 overhead.

 

[dittle fart around]

Why not run some pvc pipe underground?

 

[pentavolvo]

i would get 2 linksys routers put ddwrt on them and use them to shoot signal from house to garage etc

 

[andrew240z]

Why not run some pvc pipe underground?

I have a sewer pipe right in the path and this seems like it would be less hassle, no?

 

[dittle fart around]

I have a sewer pipe right in the path and this seems like it would be less hassle, no?

You should be good at 18" deep, I'm betting your sewer line is deeper than that. go right over the top of it.

 

[1fastvx]

Be careful running that line to your garage. The line can easily introduce an electrical charge into your network. You need to install at lightining surge protector on the cable.

http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Base-T-CAT5e-Lightning-Protector/dp/B002LYX5MI

John

 

[paullie]

i think you should look into a better router, 25' shouldn't be no problem

 

[Norcal]

Be sure to use a cable rated for outdoor or UG use, it's one of 2 reasons I have not run it out to the shop yet, the gel filled CAT 5 cable is a PITA to work w/ but doing the job right is important.

 

[mrb]

this is one place where I disagree with 'doing it right' (although i would never do it in a situation other than DIY) I would just run regular cat5 u/g in a conduit and if it ever becomes a problem replace it. If you are in an area with lightning you do want building entrance terminals on each end of it. On the shop side connect the cable to a cheap switch not directly to the computer.

 

[nehog]

To do it right...

1. Run a 'messenger cable' (steel stranded wire) between the two points.
2. Use cable that is UV rated! (most CAT cable is not...)
3. Attach the CAT cable to the messenger cable. If the CAT cable's insulation is not strong, make sure that your binding cable/wire won't cut through it. The binding cable/wire should wrap around the two (messenger cable and the CAT wire) about every 12 to 16 inches usually. It should be tight enough to hold the two together without large gaps, but no so tight it cuts the CAT cable. The CAT computer cable hangs below the messenger cable.

=/===/===/===/===/===/=== <-- Messenger cable
/---/---/---/---/---/---/ <-- CAT computer wire
^
|
Wrap wire (goes around in a continuous fashion.

Considering all, I'd also recommend some buried conduit! Lacing the wrap wire is a PITA when done by hand.

 

[mrb]

there's virtually no weight involved. you can zip tie the cat5 to the messenger cable

 

[kbs2244]

I would assume there will be some slope to the cable run.
If so, you want to be sure to have a “drain loop” at the low end of the cable.
It will look a little bit like a plumbing “P” trap.
The idea is that as the rain runs down the length of the cable it come to a low point that is below the entry through the siding.
It just makes the work easier for the weatherproofing seal in the siding around the cable.

I have seen the same thing accomplished by just letting the cable sag.
If the slope is down, away from the siding at each end, you are good to go.

 

[nehog]

there's virtually no weight involved. you can zip tie the cat5 to the messenger cable

I don't recommend zip ties unless you are 100% sure they are UV proof. I've seen cheap ones dissolve into dust in a couple of years in New England, and I'm sure in more southern climates they'd go even quicker!

BTW, above I mentioned UV proof CAT cable. Virtually all plenum rated cable is UV proof and should work very well in this application.

 

[TWX]

I like the ddwrt option probably best if there's no existing conduit to use, as if you do put outdoor-rated Cat5 on a messenger cable you're still probably going to want lightning arrestors at either end. It's probably cheaper, and if you can find suitable APs used at the Goodwill then it's almost free.

 

[babzog]

Conduit.... if you're not going to be driving transports or trains over it, you'll be good. I put my tower conduit - 2" - down min 18" but I also planned to occasionally have heavy equipment drive over it. If I didn't intend to have anything heavier than a lawn mower driving overhead and if I used smaller conduit, I'd be comfortable putting it just a few inches below grade.

 

[Mr_fixit]

This is what would work, but then you need the right hardware to secure the ends. And you'll probably have a heck of a time finding it. Ask a phone company guy if they use something like this. http://www.sterlitetechnologies.com/pdf/ProdWithContents/CAT 5 FIG-8 SELF SUPPORTING CABLE.pdf And then you'll need somekind of lightning protection like a phone company nid. Guys that run outdoor WIFI would aslo probably use this.

Sounds like I'd just run regular cat 5 in the ground, or better yet use an outdoor rated cat 5 wire.

 

[Brentocool]

I'm on my Buddys wireless right now!! He lives 2 doors down!!!! You need a better wireless set up. The one down there was 40 bucks! Cheaper then cable.

 

[luvit]

i agree about solving the wireless set-up, but cat 5 is a cheap enough & quick solution.

i've run cat5 for years just cutting a slice in the dirt and tucking the cat 5 several inches below the grass.. make sure your don't tear your cat 5 outer layer..
.
.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd either buy a better router or bury the wire in some conduit.

 

[G_P]

Bury it. It will be easier and basically maintenance free. Unless you get overhead rated cable even with the steel cable supporting it in high winds it is going to flop around and evetually develop internal breaks. That or get a better router. I can go way more than 25feet out in my yard and still get signal off my 30 dollar walmart router.

 

[kbs2244]

Have you checked how you cable TV wire is buried?
Not exactly sophisticated.

 

[SmokeyDP]

Just buy a $50 N router and N adapter. It should reach a few hundred feet even through buildings.

 

[ForceFed70]

Wireless should reach. 2.4Ghz 802.11N would be your best solution. Also look into directional antenaes.

Go underground if you have to run a wire. Overhead are ugly and problematic.

You can also use a powerline networking technology (data over your home's AC lines). These setups are getting to be more and more common and affordable.

 

[richb82]

I have an older Linksys WRT54GS router kept in a small closet in my house, and I can still get wireless on my phone from across the street, an easy 100' away, plus the 2 walls it has to go through. I'd definitely just buy a new router and call it a day. Little more money up front, but much less hassle in the end.

 

[v12man]

Just buy a new 8Db aerial for your wireless device - cheap and work very well.

 

[Falcon67]

X14 for get a better router. Our E3000 Linksys gives good signal 100' easy and I can pick up our SSID at 300'. It's a dual band - 802.11A has a shorter range but has a bif fewer interferers. Chain link is great for killing 802.11b/g 2.4ghz.

 

[foss]

x15!!!!

 

[MN4x4]

Another vote for conduit...

About a dozen years ago I buried 2" conduit from my house to my shop - a distance of about 80 feet. In addition to multiple Cat6 runs I have two telephone lines, multiple video cables for DirecTV, MediaCom, and my security camera(s), plus a custom (built by me) alarm system.

If anything goes wrong with the wiring I can just pull it out and at the same time use it to pull new wiring in. And if I ever need to add wire for something else, I have a nylon pull-line in the conduit that I just use to pull in the next wire - whatever it is.

But I *am* a phone and networking guy, so my setup might be a little overkill for your application. Then again, if you're on this forum you probably believe in some measure of overkill...

 

[jomobco]

Google wireless bridge

 

[APEowner]

It was about 18 months in between when I ran the direct bury CAT 5 out to my shop and when I finally got around to burying it. For those 18 months it ran across the lawn and up a tree where it was zip tied to a branch and then above the driveway over to a hanger of some sort on the side of the shop and then down and into the building. I put a drip loop in it where it entered the building. There was no sign of deterioration when I finally buried it.

The lightening thing is a good point and one that I hadn't thought of. Now that it's been mentioned I think that I might want to address that if I were to do that again.

As far as burying it is concerned, it really doesn't need to be very deep. Mine is only about 8". If it gets damaged I'll just pull it up and run another.

 

[Davi]

I'm really not a fan of wireless if it can be avoided but a couple of directional antennas could help if there is something blocking the signal. A cheap "cantenna" would do.
If you are going to run cable, I'd suggest a minimum of cat 5e and pull an extra.

 

[rwhite692]

Underground in pvc conduit, all the way.

Especially since we are only talking 25 feet.

I'd run an extra Cat-5, and a Coax in there as well, while you are at it, wire is cheap.

 

[rwhite692]

It was about 18 months in between when I ran the direct bury CAT 5 out to my shop and when I finally got around to burying it. For those 18 months it ran across the lawn and up a tree where it was zip tied to a branch and then above the driveway over to a hanger of some sort on the side of the shop and then down and into the building. I put a drip loop in it where it entered the building. There was no sign of deterioration when I finally buried it.

The lightening thing is a good point and one that I hadn't thought of. Now that it's been mentioned I think that I might want to address that if I were to do that again.

As far as burying it is concerned, it really doesn't need to be very deep. Mine is only about 8". If it gets damaged I'll just pull it up and run another.

regular ol' cat-5 wire outside jacket is plain old PVC with no UV inhibitor so after a while in the sun, it will flake apart and turn to dust.

 

[jeffmoss26]

As a cabling/data guy, this bothers me. If you are going to run wire outside between two buildings, you need the correct outdoor cable, with lightning protection on both ends, properly grounded. Regardless of whether you do it aerial or buried, you gotta do it right.

It would certainly be much easier to try wireless. I did a set of wireless bridges to connect two buildings across the street from each other, and it worked like a charm.

 

[tyjoja]

I'm a cable guy. I throw away 10 times more than you need every week. find a phone or a cable guy parked some where and ask him if he has something that will work in his garbage on the truck. we have wire integrated with its own support wire with it, but the guy will have just the support wire also, and 25' is nothing. Just put a hook in each building, run the support wire, (ours is covered in plastic), ty wrap your cat 5 to it or use good old scotch 88 electrical tape. don't worry about uv anything, if the ty wrap or tape come off get a ladder and put some more on, trust me it will last. put a drip loop on each side after the house hook. Find the cable guy and flip him 5 bucks and he'll be thrilled. Bob

 

[jeffmoss26]

Yes but if it is leaving a building and entering another it needs to have lightning protection and ground! You can have the best outdoor wire but once it gets struck, forget it.

 

[HoseB]

I'm a cable guy. I throw away 10 times more than you need every week. find a phone or a cable guy parked some where and ask him if he has something that will work in his garbage on the truck. we have wire integrated with its own support wire with it, but the guy will have just the support wire also, and 25' is nothing. Just put a hook in each building, run the support wire, (ours is covered in plastic), ty wrap your cat 5 to it or use good old scotch 88 electrical tape. don't worry about uv anything, if the ty wrap or tape come off get a ladder and put some more on, trust me it will last. put a drip loop on each side after the house hook. Find the cable guy and flip him 5 bucks and he'll be thrilled. Bob

Are you kidding me? If you're a "cable guy" handing out this bad advice, then I must be a nuclear scientist...