stripping steel door

[SGKent]

Update: Stripped steel door, sanding grits, and etching primer

Have a steel front door that is crazing like an old piano. Sits in the sun all afternoon. Last painted 15 years ago. Thought I would add stripping it to my list of to-do items. Is the best way you think a heat gun and putty knife? I can use a commercial stripper but dealing with the mess here is a problem because we are near a creek and anything washing off my driveway goes into the creek. The rags or sawdust used to wipe it would also probably be HHW material when done. The door has panels molded in so a sander won't work that well. I was thinking heat gun, putty knife, and wire brush, then sand and prime. Paint 2 coats of oil based enamel.

 

[evintho]

Sandblast it.
I have two steel security doors on my house that were starting to rust after 20 years. I painted the house so the doors needed to be addressed. I blasted them then sprayed them with single stage urethane automotive paint. They came out very nice. It took about 30 minutes to blast both doors. I have a sand blaster so it was a no brainer for me however, find a blaster there in Sacto and give 'em a call for an estimate. I doubt it would cost much.

 

[Stuart in MN]

A heat gun will work but I would imagine a metal door will make for a good heat sink, so it may take a while to get the paint hot enough to come off. You may want to start with a paint scraper to manually remove as much of the crazed paint as you can.

 

[ford33]

There are many eco friendly paint strippers on the market now. Maybe it is time to take the door off the hinges, lay flat to strip and paint. It is also a good time to replace the weatherstripping and bottom door seal and lube the hinges and locks.

Search eco friendly paint stripper.

 

[Dodge]

I would not go to all that work. I would replace it with a fiberglass door. They are not that expensive anymore. If your door is 15 years old, other parts of door are wearing out too. Just my .02

 

[KenC]

If it is mostly flat, not a lot of stamped in design, I'd just sand it. A buffer with coarse sanding disk will remove it quickly. buffer for its slower speed, compared to a grinder/sander, which won't gum the paper as bad or gouge the steel. Finish with an orbital sander.

IMO, much better that messy strippers. Of course, this is best done horizontally, laying on saw horses.

That said, strippers are almost the only choice if there are embossed designs.

 

[BajaScout]

I would hit it with a flap disc and wire brush.


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[SGKent]

I thought steel doors were more secure than fiberglass. It is a front door, not a security door.

 

[yeldogt]

I would hit it with a flap disc and wire brush.


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You don't want to do that

 

[yeldogt]

I thought steel doors were more secure than fiberglass. It is a front door, not a security door.

The door is stronger than the frame .. wood/steel/fiberglass. All stronger than the frame -- that's why the better locks have separate reinforced strikes that lag into the framing.

There are all types of strippers available -- how much detail on the door.

Some times a light sanding and quality primer can go a long way to even out ... especially if there air no chipping or flaking.

 

[kbs2244]

I like the idea of taking them into a sandblasting shop.
I would guess it would take less than an hour.

With an appointment it could be a "while you wait" deal.

 

[SGKent]

I like the idea of taking them into a sandblasting shop.
I would guess it would take less than an hour.

With an appointment it could be a "while you wait" deal.

no pickup. The work will be done here.

 

[rsanter]

Flat areas use a random orbit or finish sander.

Detail areas you can remove loose stuff with a hand wire brush and then hand sand.

For very hard to sand areas you can use a spot sand blaster

Paint with etching primer and then paint over that

 

[SGKent]

looked at the ratings on strippers that can be sold in California. Mostly negative comments unless left on for 24 hours. Probably go see my buddy who refinishes museum quality furniture for a living. See what he uses. The random orbital looks good too. I may have to combine solutions to get quickest results.

 

[kbs2244]

Front doors are 36 inches wide.
No need for a PU
With red flags they will fit into even a small car's trunk.

Take the knobs off.
It will make them easier to move, blast, and re-paint.

 

[Norcal]

Bought a pre-hung 6 panel metal door at HD for about $125.00 including tax a few weeks ago, for that kind of money not worth screwing with a old door, unless it is a bit more upscale. Blasting a door will remove or degrade any rust resistant coatings on the steel, when I let the primer on a metal door be exposed to the harsh sun for too long had to strip it, then used a rattle can primer over it before spraying a oil based enamel over it.

 

[SGKent]

Bought a pre-hung 6 panel metal door at HD for about $125.00 including tax a few weeks ago, for that kind of money not worth screwing with a old door, unless it is a bit more upscale. Blasting a door will remove or degrade any rust resistant coatings on the steel, when I let the primer on a metal door be exposed to the harsh sun for too long had to strip it, then used a rattle can primer over it before spraying a oil based enamel over it.

If I can't strip it a new one is probably the direction I will go. The cost here to blast it will be 2X what it costs to replace it.

 

[SGKent]

This afternoon I pulled the front door off, put it on sawhorses and used a heat gun and propane torch to soften the paint then used a putty knife to scrape it. Old paint is stripped off. Need to sand, apply a light coat of etching primer, then tinted base primer and final coats.

Most of the original steel primer survived but I will lose some of it when sanding and wiping the door down to even it out.

1) what grit(s) would you choose to sand a steel door for paint? I used 150 then 220 wet and dry.

2) would an autobody etching primer work to spray a mist where the original steel primer may come off? I have some around I think. A tinted primer will go over that then the finish coats.

 

[SGKent]

Surprised no one here had an answer. Here is what my painter told me to do, in case anyone else has the same question:

final sand 320 or 400 grit
Use Zinnser CoverStain oil based primer
Sponge 4” roller
Wet lap seams
Let dry 1 hour before first final coat
Use Kelly Moore 1250 - quart should do it
Let dry 3 hours between final coats.