Stronger than a dual 80

[bobcatdan]

Are there any ratchets you would consider stronger than a SO dual 80. I have a SO dual 80 1/2" 24 long flex head and all it does is break. In the year I've had it, it's broke 6 or 7 times. I bought it because I broke my matco 24" ratchet twice in 6 years! Maybe I will just use the matco instead, but just wondering if you guys think a wright, proto, sk or something eles is stronger. Maybe I shoud use my 3/4" drive more.

 

[Hiball]

Are there any ratchets you would consider stronger than a SO dual 80. I have a SO dual 80 1/2" 24 long flex head and all it does is break. In the year I've had it, it's broke 6 or 7 times. I bought it because I broke my matco 24" ratchet twice in 6 years! Maybe I will just use the matco instead, but just wondering if you guys think a wright, proto, sk or something eles is stronger. Maybe I shoud use my 3/4" drive more.

I believe with your history you already know the answer, Either that or you are just one of those guys who could break a Anvil with a Rubber mallet. I really suspect its just a poor choice of Size though....

Good Luck

 

[bobcatdan]

Mine failures are mostly due to pressing drive chains on bobcats. Its done with an oversized chain press inside the chaincase and 1/2" drive is a s big as is going to fit inside. Last job, the Dual 80 didn't last one chain, the matco finshed that chain and went on to press 3 more. Other then that, it has been the screws keep loosening up and if you don't check it everytime, one hard pull and the guts just shoot out. My anger came today when checking piviot pin bolts and the ratchet suddenly skipped so bad, I ended up cracking my face on the boom arm, nice head ache the rest of the day.

 

[marcusicp]

Did you try a thread locker on the screws?

I like my Matco 88's better than my Snap-On Dual 80's but it is just a matter of preference. I haven't noticed any issues with strength with either. Sounds like you are using them at their limits.

 

[Kirbot]

Just use a breaker bar.
I've never really figured out the point of 24" ratchets.
I'd be more surprised if you didn't break them.

 

[Deafautotech]

I would stop use ratchet. Use breaker bar....

 

[BajaBound]

I agree but doesn't the dual 80 have a crazy rating like up to 700ft/lb?

 

[tonydanzah]

i have yet to break my matco 24" locking flexhead

 

[Farmrod]

I know you can put some crazy force behind my 24"dual 80... Has it broken yes..was it my fault yes...I'm a big guy (280lbs) and I've had the ratchet flex so much that I thought it would be bent out of shape it bounced right back my suggestion would be you use a tool intended for the job at hand when I perform the exact same task you are referring to I use a breaker bar

 

[JeremyManning]

Maybe try an older snap on ratchet

 

[eurokid]

Try using a ratchet with a lower tooth count and see how it goes.

 

[bobcatdan]

Is it just me or are the old 36 tooth SO stronger? I personally like the old ones better. I tried locktite on the screws, still came loose after a week, and that was 272 red.

 

[Hiball]

Is it just me or are the old 36 tooth SO stronger? I personally like the old ones better. I tried locktite on the screws, still came loose after a week, and that was 272 red.

Nope not stronger... Based on our resident snap on dealers and the frequency of rebuilds.

 

[williaty]

If you can come up with enough leverage out of a 18" ratchet, try one of the Wright 1/2" drive ratchets.

 

[jjjrmx5]

It's the wrong tool for the job.

Move up to 3/4" and if not doing the job, move up to 1". If you HAVE to remain at 1/2", try a breaker bar.

Doing the same task and achieving the same results means you need to likely change the tool. Tool failure usually means insufficient sized tool or tool of poor quality or not appropriately designed or engineered for the task.

Or you can keep using them and breaking them and blaming the tool.
Insert Sisyphus joke here <-------

 

[nato]

I tell you what, I'm gonna favor my Matco 88th 17" flex/handled 1/2" ratchet here against my older, Snappy SF80. As I've stated before, I had the ratchet head mechanism rebuilt/warranted in my SF80 3 times in almost a year under normal, non-heavy duty, typical complete auto repair shop environment.
No matter what, the pawl & drive gear ALWAYS wore out prematurely....the first time was due to loose hold down screws (understandable), but the next time, my dealer warranted the complete head and the third and final time, rebuilt it again (not due to loose hold down screws this time either...)
Then I switched to my Matco 88 tooth(enter stupid redciculously long part # here) 17" flex 1/2" ratchet. So far, in almost a full years use, no issues...All I do is tear down the head, clean it and lube it.
It overall, feel and works like amore "heavier duty" ratchet.

I'd also 2nd the favorable idea of possibly using a lower tooth count, old school style 30/36/45 tooth ratchet

 

[Hammer1963]

The Matco 88 is hard to beat.

 

[timesrgood?]

I have been looking at the advice on here for quite some time, and have been researching some ratchet types. The round head with large single pawl looks about unbreakable to me. Williams, Snap on and some other round heads use this design. I have some Cman and KD with this design in 3/8. The pawl is free floating so does not rely on a pin to break. The pawl is large and when it wedges in the corner of the internal head teeth, it gets wedged tighter as more force is applied. I don't see how anything short of handle or head body fracture could cause this design to break. I have a 1/2" williams 15" and it has this design.

This is a patent from snap on showing the basic design, maybe this is old news to you guys:

http://www.google.com/patents?id=5-...=gbs_selected_pages&cad=3#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

[mrshaun]

they are changing the s80 ratchets just a little to combat the screws breaking or backing out. they will be the A model ratchets.
s80a
sf80a
sl80a etc.
i have not seen one yet, but the changes should prevent the problems you guys are having.

 

[skeletonizer]

I would stop use ratchet. Use breaker bar....

Maybe try an older snap on ratchet

Try using a ratchet with a lower tooth count and see how it goes.

x4


I have a 24" (or is it 18"?) Snap on 36 tooth. It scares me a bit using it near the limit. That is a long a$$ handle. I have good health insurance but don't heal as quick as I used too.

I am **** about using the breaker for almost everything.

 

[William Payne]

I allways assumed the high tooth count long handle flex head ratchets were more due to more confined hard to reach or move spaces in modern vehicles rather then added strength or leverage. There is only so much loading you can put on little teeth like those in ratchets.

What kind of loadings are some of you guys putting on ratchets to be able to break them?

 

[William Payne]

I agree but doesn't the dual 80 have a crazy rating like up to 700ft/lb?

700ft/lbs applied force at what distance from the fulcrum? further distance away the higher the applied force becomes, thats the physics behind a breaker bar. If the ratched mechanism can only handle 700ft/ib of applied force at a set distance then if that distance is exceeded through for example long handles or cheater bars then the integrety of the mechanism is lowered.

 

[reptilezs]

700ft/lbs applied force at what distance from the fulcrum? further distance away the higher the applied force becomes, thats the physics behind a breaker bar. If the ratched mechanism can only handle 700ft/ib of applied force at a set distance then if that distance is exceeded through for example long handles or cheater bars then the integrety of the mechanism is lowered.

700 lbs 1 ft away from the head or 350lb 2ft away from the head

 

[Wrenches of Death]

I allways assumed the high tooth count long handle flex head ratchets were more due to more confined hard to reach or move spaces in modern vehicles rather then added strength or leverage. There is only so much loading you can put on little teeth like those in ratchets.

That's been my thought line for a very long time. I have at least one each of a standard low tooth count ratchet and at least one each of a fine tooth ratchet in the 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" sizes. I only have one 1" drive ratchet, a recent Wright and it has 45 teeth if I remember correctly. It's a lot finer than my departed 1" drive Proto. I consider my standard ratchets more than strong enough and my fine tooth ratchets as fine toothed enough.

For general use, or heavy duty "cheater" use, I use the standard low tooth count ratchets. I save my fine tooth ratchets for use where swing space is an issue. I consider a fine tooth ratchet as a "precision" ratchet, not something you slip a cheater on and start beating with a hammer.

I don't consider ANY flex head ratchet as a heavy duty ratchet. If they were you'd see more of them in the 3/4" and 1" drive ratchets. Come to think of it, I've never seen any flex head in those sizes.

A flex head ratchet and a cheater pipe are bad JuJu in the making. The same goes for a hinged breaker bar and a cheater pipe.

WoD

 

[Hoss356]

If you must use a ratchet, why not just get a 1" rat with a 1/2" impact adapter? Your ratchet will no longer be the weak link and spare adapters are easier to carry then extra ratchets.

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

I can't vouch for the current models, but my Mac VR24FPA has been to hell and back on equipment work and has never had a problem.

 

[William Payne]

I save my fine tooth ratchets for use where swing space is an issue.
WoD

Yeah thats what I thought the whole point of high tooth count ratchets were for, those times where you can't get enough swing on the 36 tooth and need more teeth to get it to click and get some decent swing out of it in a low space enviroment. One thing I have noticed is that ratchets that are advertised as heavy duty generally are more around 36 tooth count.

 

[toolfreak]

they are changing the s80 ratchets just a little to combat the screws breaking or backing out. they will be the A model ratchets.
s80a
sf80a
sl80a etc.
i have not seen one yet, but the changes should prevent the problems you guys are having.

I bet there will be a bunch of ratchets traded in for the newer ones. I know I have about 8 I am going to be getting rid of before I break a knuckle.

 

[Radio Flyer]

It's the wrong tool for the job.

Move up to 3/4" and if not doing the job, move up to 1". If you HAVE to remain at 1/2", try a breaker bar.

Doing the same task and achieving the same results means you need to likely change the tool. Tool failure usually means insufficient sized tool or tool of poor quality or not appropriately designed or engineered for the task.

Or you can keep using them and breaking them and blaming the tool.
Insert Sisyphus joke here <-------

I know what the OP is doing. The problem is that there is no room for a 3/4" ratchet.

 

[Danglerb]

I don't think I would need to hit my head too many times before I made a tool that worked.

 

[greasemonkey44]

how about a breaker bar with a ratcheting attachment?
snapon sells a pretty small ratcheting adapter for half that is brutally strong

 

[smalltruck]

I have the Matco 24 inch flex 88 and I've broken it twice. Have to say its been used hard to break it though. It is stronger than my SO 1/2 drive 24 inch breaker bar as that used to break once a month. Starter bolts on some diesels don't have much clearance for a larger ratchet. Suspension bolts on some airride trucks are the same way.

So use what you can find that works for you is what I did. And keep that tool guy happy as you will need his warranty service

 

[bobcatdan]

For everyone who keeps saying, use 3/4 or 1". There are times I grab the 1/2 and flex in the bar causes me to rethink and grab a 3/4. There has to be a lot of torque loss there. But where I am breaking this ratchet is pressing drive chains. Here whats happening. The chain press is inside the chaincase, a 24" adjustable wrench with a a 3ft pipe used hold the press in place. Then with a 7/8 socket, a 1/2 ratchet will just wedge inside. Now install a 3 to 4 ft pipe on the ratchet, add a helper and press the chain. If you are luckly, you're doing all 4. Also, I have broke breaker bars. This job ***** and I wish bobcat would come up with a better way to press drive chains.

 

[williaty]

Flex causes zero torque loss. It causes angle of rotation loss, but not torque loss.

 

[ajchien]

For everyone who keeps saying, use 3/4 or 1". There are times I grab the 1/2 and flex in the bar causes me to rethink and grab a 3/4. There has to be a lot of torque loss there. But where I am breaking this ratchet is pressing drive chains. Here whats happening. The chain press is inside the chaincase, a 24" adjustable wrench with a a 3ft pipe used hold the press in place. Then with a 7/8 socket, a 1/2 ratchet will just wedge inside. Now install a 3 to 4 ft pipe on the ratchet, add a helper and press the chain. If you are luckly, you're doing all 4. Also, I have broke breaker bars. This job ***** and I wish bobcat would come up with a better way to press drive chains.

I'm not exactly sure what you are doing, but it sounds like you could consider making a custom tool for this one job, especially if you're doing it multiple times. Perhaps a 7/8 offset box end wrench stuck into and welded into a 5-6 ft pipe???

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

Oh by the way, I've never seen a 24" ratchet in Ed's toolbox. (Ed, you know, the guy who knows his **** that I mentioned earlier)

Why didn't anyone tell me that I didn't know my *** from a hole in the ground? I have two 24" ratchets, so I must be a complete hack.

There's a whole lot of use for the long ones when you're working on heavy equipment. Hell, I just used my big Mac this morning for pulling the exhaust manifold off of my '57 F100. You use what works for what you are doing. For example, I don't have ANYTHING metric in my box at work - does that make me less of a mechanic, or does it make me someone who doesn't mess with metric fasteners?

 

[canuckian]

I know I don't "need" a 24 inch dual 80 ratchet but I do use the hell out of mine as well as my 24 inch breaker bar. It's all about what works for the job and for the person doing the job.
I do like ajchien's idea though. you'd still have to take the wrench off the fastener after every twist but you'd have the clearance problem solved.

 

[tonydanzah]

Why didn't anyone tell me that I didn't know my *** from a hole in the ground? I have two 24" ratchets, so I must be a complete hack.

There's a whole lot of use for the long ones when you're working on heavy equipment. Hell, I just used my big Mac this morning for pulling the exhaust manifold off of my '57 F100. You use what works for what you are doing. For example, I don't have ANYTHING metric in my box at work - does that make me less of a mechanic, or does it make me someone who doesn't mess with metric fasteners?

i guess you have been doing it wrong all these years