Strut Design Workbench - Looking for Feedback

[Theycallmejohn]

Hello Everyone,
I am new to the forum here because I was researching workbenches and came across this awesome site. For the past few weeks I have been working on my work bench design below. I am hoping for feed back from individuals with years of experience. Here is brief overview of the plan.

• Frame: Constructed of PHD 1-5/8" strut. (Similar to Unistrut)
• Top: Top will be a solid core door. I have been told this will be a stable a reliable works surface.
• Power: I will have Snap-In power receptacles in the front and back. Wires will be run though the strut to and inside the a cavity space to 9 switch surge protector. There will be one plug at the back with the same type of terminal as a standard computer cable. (Still have to figure out how I am going to cut the square holes in the strut for the snap in receptacles.
• Compressed Air: Compressed air lines will run through the cavity and be distributed at the legs. I have yet to determine if I will run copper or plastic air lines. Currently I have 3/8" fitting but I do not yet own any air tools.
• Movement: I want to be able to move this in the garage if needed but still be stable to work on so I will be using heavy duty leveling casters.
• Computer: I would like to have a computer below or possible a custom one built in the space between the underboard and the top.
• Drawers: I currently have two drawers modeled in. The lower is sized to hold my miter saw. The upper for misc. Though I am not sure if the just a double extension drawer will work. It may be to short.

I would also like to have a some sort of peg board on the walls, I am oepn to suggestions.

I am planning on supplementing this with a rolling craftsman tool chest when I can find a good deal on one.

Any guidance or advice would be appreciated.

Though I arrived at the idea of strut workbench independently. Some ideas came from Akdiesel's workbench. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164814&referrerid=215420

 

[Modern Jess]

I don't have any immediate feedback, except to say that I really want to see this when it's built. Very cool!

 

[akdiesel]

Theycallmejohn

All right bring on the designs. I like your plan.
The solid door is a great choice for a topper. Plenty strong enough for serious work and easy to repair if needed, but you will be limited to its total length if you do not want seems.
As for a computer, its good to have the tools at your location but protect it as best you can. You may want to come up with some sort of vented shroud that has a small cooling fan. It will get very dirty and maybe some sort of spring feet since the bench may be used for hammering.
The holes can be cut with drill bits first and then finished with a dremel or file. It was difficult finding the Unistrut outlets but I believe my thread gives the source.

 

[Fretters]

As for a computer, its good to have the tools at your location but protect it as best you can.

Thinking similar. Definitely not something which I'd like to have at the bench. Sawdust, swarf, filings, vibration etc., they'll all kill it in short order unless it's completely enclosed with shock dampening and filtered inlet and outlet.

 

[shooting4life]

for the computer I think you would be better off with a laptop which are designed to be moved around, then you could connect a monitor and use a wireless keyboard/mouse as well.

I would also try and by your strut brackets/nuts on ebay, they are much cheaper than from a vendor. Also check CL for strut, I found sticks of white powdercoat strut for 7.50 each.

 

[KerryH]

The workbench design looks pretty solid, however I would hate to see that much space wasted to a massive computer case. With the current generation processors, Mini-ITX builds are surprisingly powerful and very compact and efficient. A build around a case like this should be more than adequate for a shop computer:

 

[Theycallmejohn]

Theycallmejohn

All right bring on the designs. I like your plan.
.....
The holes can be cut with drill bits first and then finished with a dremel or file. It was difficult finding the Unistrut outlets but I believe my thread gives the source.

Akdiesel- I liked your Unistrut plugs but the cheapest I could find was like $22 something a set of plugs. I am planning on going with the Leviton Snap-in Receptacle

for the computer I think you would be better off with a laptop which are designed to be moved around, then you could connect a monitor and use a wireless keyboard/mouse as well.

I would also try and by your strut brackets/nuts on ebay, they are much cheaper than from a vendor. Also check CL for strut, I found sticks of white powdercoat strut for 7.50 each.

Shooting4life: I appreciate the suggestion but I do a good deal of Solidworks and Autocad modeling and some of the models and rendering require a great deal of power. Also I work for design supply company so I get a good deal on parts and strut.

The workbench design looks pretty solid, however I would hate to see that much space wasted to a massive computer case. With the current generation processors, Mini-ITX builds are surprisingly powerful and very compact and efficient. A build around a case like this should be more than adequate for a shop computer:

KerryH: I agree that while I will probably build it internally. Possibly something like this :Workbench Computer Case

 

[alberto]

Shooting4life: I appreciate the suggestion but I do a good deal of Solidworks and Autocad modeling and some of the models and rendering require a great deal of power. Also I work for design supply company so I get a good deal on parts and strut.

That explains the great layout drawings in your original post! Was wondering about that.

 

[Theycallmejohn]

Akdiesel- I like your idea of drilling holes and cutting it with a dremel. Would you just use a standard cutting wheel? I don't have a drill press....

General question- Do you think flexible plastic air hoses or copper lines? (I heard PVC was a no no.)

Any other concepts I should build in? Or other do or don'ts?

Does anyone know of way i could build a small shelf that could swing down from underneath to hold items like the disc drive?

Also you guys bring up a good point about the sawdust and such. I think if I water cool the systems then I can isolate it and seal it up pretty well inside the dead space.

 

[akdiesel]

Theycallmejohn

-If you have drill use that but you will need to make multiple purchase points to get the shape you want or use a large bit the same outside perimeters as the outlet plug and then file the corners.
-I may get stoned for suggesting this but PEX will work for the air line. Get the small 3/8". Not sure if they make it in 1/4" or not. It wont burst like PVC or ABS and is flexible to mold around corners fairly well. I would not use it for your main lines due to the low spots that can happen and store liquid, plus it does not cool the air down like metal pipe. I would not use copper in the tight spots since of the strut it may be difficult to work with.
I used 3/8" and 1/4" stainless tubing to put inside the strut on mine, but for some that is not an option due to cost even though it is not that much more than copper.
-If you can build a cooler for the computer that would a great idea and one I liked to see.
-Build in a light switch and lighting. Also for long bench time it may be more comfortable to position your legs under the bench so you may want incorporate a space for the stool to sit or build a swing seat that swings under the bench. I been toying with this idea as well.

 

[Theycallmejohn]

Akdiesel,
Thanks for the advice. I think the PEX will be a lot eaiser to work with. I started playing with the Solidworks tube modeling to see if I could draw some in. I do have concerns about meeting the minimum bend radius but there maybe away around this as 1/2" was the smallest I could find a decent amount of fittings for.

All,
A few items I would like some advice on form
1) I don't have any air tools nor a compressor currently but I wanted to put lines in. My question is what size disconnects should I install for the supply and the tool connection? Currently I have some 3/8"

2) is it better to have the orientated outward or downward. I currently have them horizontal in the front and downward in the back.

3)Any idea on what I could do on the left. I was thinking about shelves but am open to suggestions and ideas.

Also I modeled up my free space in the garage. I think I might have to move the cabinets because they are kind of low and can't go any higher as a garage door rail will block them (not pictured).

 

[akdiesel]

Theycallmejohn

Your design looks great but I missed it the first time. Why do you have double strut for the top support? Single should support what ever you need to do and it will be easier to attach to the wood top. If you can cut the edges at a 45 deg and use screws to go 3/4 of the way into the wood. The 45 deg will give you cleaner look and allow for the air or electrical lines to flow cleanly through the strut.

1/4" is the typical size for most normal / small air tools. They make some nice quick connects now. Do a search on Amazon for air quick connects.
I would keep them outside of the bench. If it is inside the confinements of the bench it will take up useful space. At a 45 deg angle would be best on the front edge or back wall.

 

[Theycallmejohn]

Akdiesel
The dual strut serves two main purposes one:

1. Provide extra rigidity to the top and support for the members underneath. Thereby reducing and bounce or deflection. This was recommended to me by the guys at the office who work with strut. All of our drafting tables are made out of double strut.
2. Create a dead space for me to run air lines, electrical wires and a place for the computer components to go instead of having a computer tower underneath.

I would still like to create some creative way of accessing that compartment almost making it like a hidden compartment but i have yet to figure out how to.

Also while I like your 45 Degree idea. I don't have a way to efficiently cut it at home. So the guys at the factory will cut the pieces but I don't think I can trust them to make accurate 45" degree cuts.

Lastly thanks for the info on 1/4". I found some 3/8" versions on McMaster-Carr but I will swap them out for 1/4".

Any idea on what I could do with the open space on left?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I just today saw this thread. I like your design for an office setting. It would not work in my shop. The determining factor is always the type of work you plan to do and I am unclear about your intentions. For me those shallow, unenclosed drawers would be a dirt magnet. Most of what I do with air tools is grind and sand. I don't want an open computer case around that type of work, nor do I want open top drawers, unless they are behind doors. As to the top, solid core door is a good choice, but a single sheet of 3/4" plywood, split down the middle and doubled will yield a 1.5 inch thick top 2x8 in dimension (probably less money). Your top could be hinged with a long piano hinge (continuous), so it could be raised to allow access to the area underneath. Keep us posted with pics as you complete your build.

 

[mike342]

Hi, just coming into Garage Journal recently and saw this post. Do you have pics of the finished product? I’m thinking of doing something similar and hoping to see real images . Thanks for sharing

 

[kngelv]

You cannot run air lines in the same strut or cavity if you are using strut or the cavity as a wire path.

 

[Hohn]

Very cool project. I have a love/hate relationship with strut. On the one hand, it's super useful. On the other hand, it seems like a huge premium to pay for basic U-shaped channel that's had a single pass through some forming dies to roll the edges over.

 

[manwithtools]

You cannot run air lines in the same strut or cavity if you are using strut or the cavity as a wire path.

Why do you say that?

 

[kngelv]

Why do you say that?

Article 300 in the N.E.C. has all the info on wiring methods. NEC 300.8 specifically states that what the OP wants to do is not permissible. You can use strut as a wireway but you must enclose it and you can't run anything else in there. It says: No pipe, tube or equal for steam, water, air, gas, drainage or any service other than electrical is permitted.

 

[manwithtools]

Article 300 in the N.E.C. has all the info on wiring methods. NEC 300.8 specifically states that what the OP wants to do is not permissible. You can use strut as a wireway but you must enclose it and you can't run anything else in there. It says: No pipe, tube or equal for steam, water, air, gas, drainage or any service other than electrical is permitted.

Sure, in the strictest interpretation of how 300.8 would apply, one could argue this is a no go. On the other hand, there are millions of instances where air hoses and electrical cables share the same space in the home shop / industrial environment. Under a workbench in a channel would be but one example.

In this case, I'd say the application is completely fine. When's the last time you laid an extension cord and an air hose in the same piece of strut or channel while working on a project?

 

[kngelv]

Sure, in the strictest interpretation of how 300.8 would apply, one could argue this is a no go. On the other hand, there are millions of instances where air hoses and electrical cables share the same space in the home shop / industrial environment. Under a workbench in a channel would be but one example.

In this case, I'd say the application is completely fine. When's the last time you laid an extension cord and an air hose in the same piece of strut or channel while working on a project?

I have never ran anything in a wireway except ...... like actual wire. Look this site is filled with people who do whatever they want. I'm just stating the code. The OP is using double strut. If his air lines are in the opposite channel as the wire then he's good codewise. If it crosses or parallels in the same channel then he's not. He can, and I'm sure he will do, whatever he wants. Your feeling that it's ok has no relevance to the NEC. That particular article is not vague at all so I don't know what you mean by "strictest interpretation". There's plenty of vague stuff in the NEC Codebook but 300.8 is not one of them.

James

 

[manwithtools]

It's a workbench. Peace, I'm out...