Stuck end cap - "bullet" vise

[rd400guy]

So I finally have a bench in my new garage, and bought the Craftsman Pro model 87018 vise, based on the reviews on GJ. I'm not master mechanic by any means, but always wanted a good workbench and general purpose vise. For $100, the Craftsman seemed a good buy. Moving on to the problem...

I'm trying to do the clean / lube / reassemble, posted here but the cap on the end of the vise is not in straight from the "factory" (China) - it's jammed in there good.

Any suggestions for removing an improperly installed end cap? I'll try to get a pic tonight, but it's clearly misaligned.

I've sprayed it with WD40, Kroil, & PB Blaster, beat it [almost mercilessly] with a steel rod and small sledge, even put the lead screw back in (without the dynamic jaw) to push against the end cap and use the mechanical advantage - it just locked up until I could no longer turn it. I know a vise is not a press so I didn't hammer on the handle of the lead screw.

I don't think I can take it back / exchange it now. I have the rest of it quite cleaned up, and the end cap is clearly abused (starting to bulge out where the rod & lead screw were "pushing" it) and a few paint nicks from trying to pry it, so I doubt they'd take it if they looked at it at all.

I'd rather not take a torch to the vise, since it is a casting, and don't want to burn up the [albeit crappy] paint.

At this point I'm ready to get out the cutoff wheel and just cut the cap, then fab up a better fitting replacement. What do you all think? If this is the route I go, can I use without that end cap for a while, until I have a replacement?

 

[zoomieport]

Did you take out the tapered pins that hold the nut in the back of the vise? If you take that off it might give you a better idea of the problem and let you "see" what the problem is... As well as giving you better access to the end cap fo BEATING on it... Just a thought, good luck!
ZOOM

 

[zoomieport]

Plus, if you ruin the end cap, just get an automotive freeze plug to replace it, they work great...

 

[rd400guy]

Can't get the pins out, 'cause I can't get that cap off! Not enough of a shoulder exposed on the pins to pull them out, will have to push 'em out - once I get the cap off.

Yeah, I'm really starting to lean toward cutoff wheel...

 

[LG63]

Remove the dynamic jaw entirely and reinsert lead screw, the screw will push it right out.

Edit: Sorry I didn't read your post all the way thru.

 

[1982fxr]

have you tried using any heat on the "female" areas of what you're trying to get apart?

edit: I know you don't want to but...you can have crappy paint or a broken vise. It's common to find those with broken chunks out of the back from people trying to get them apart.

 

[LG63]

I don't think I can take it back / exchange it now. I have the rest of it quite cleaned up, and the end cap is clearly abused (starting to bulge out where the rod & lead screw were "pushing" it) and a few paint nicks from trying to pry it, so I doubt they'd take it if they looked at it at all.

I would take it back, it will go in the defect pile and Sears will get credit from the vendor for something that was clearly assembled wrong. I doubt the Sears clerk would even question it.

 

[1982fxr]

if it's not a major hassle to swing by Sears i would at least give it a try

 

[rd400guy]

Actually shot over to Sears (the one near work) at lunch - they don't have any there, and I bought the last one at my local store near home (~45 mi. away). According to the web store, there aren't any available for pick up for at least 150 miles. Apparently I got the last vise in the eastern half of Pennsylvania.

Freeze plug to replace is a great idea; I'm just cuttin' the sucker tonight.

 

[Givl Reggin]

Instead of heat, try dry ice placed on the cap might be enough to shrink it a bit.

 

[rd400guy]

Ha, just did a search for dry ice near me; looks like I have a better chance of finding a vise at a Sears! BTW, it's showing up as "temporarily unavailable" for shipping, and just for fun typed in zip codes all over, none in stock anywhere - I may have really gotten the last one! (probably their system is just down)

Yeah, like the ice idea, too. I know a few restaurant owners, they can probably hook me up. But for how much I "smashed" on it, not sure if the ice'll do the trick. And I'm always nervous about cast pieces and extreme cold; tends to make things brittle.

 

[retDAC]

Don't know where you are, but a big chain grocery store may have dry ice even if it doesn't show on a google search. Kroger has it here.

 

[Givl Reggin]

Don't know where you are, but a big chain grocery store may have dry ice even

Yeah, any meat market or grocery store that gets 'fresh' seafood will have buckets of the stuff that the seafood comes packed in.

 

[zoomieport]

Those tapered pins "push in", not "pull out"... You should be able to hammer them in with a punch a little ways and the nut will come right out...

 

[rd400guy]

Those tapered pins "push in", not "pull out"... You should be able to hammer them in with a punch a little ways and the nut will come right out...

From this write-up, it's recommending the pins be pushed out from the inside, once you get the cap off.

If this is incorrect, and I can push the pins in far enough to clear the barrel, please advise. Do you have this same vise, or similar?

In any case, will still have to get that cap off the end to re-assemble.

But if I can push the pins in, and do get some dry ice, I could drop a little piece right down and let it sit on that cap to get nice and cold then hopefully "persuade" the cap off. Either way, this cap is going to be in rough shape 'til I'm done.

 

[zoomieport]

I don't have that exact vise, but I've done it with Wilton's, I've got several. They sell those pins at True Value Hardware around here, and they seem to have the best selection. If you want a second opinion, PM Autopts, he knows all and is very friendly. Good luck!
ZOOM

 

[zoomieport]

Just out of curiosity... Say you did get the cap off, how are you going to push/hammer those pins from the inside out?

 

[rd400guy]

Just out of curiosity... Say you did get the cap off, how are you going to push/hammer those pins from the inside out?

dlleno's write up on this vise suggests using a pick, or some other angled type of tool. The pins are not aligned exactly. Last night I did push the pins in, and managed to use a punch to push pin 1 out from the opposite side (using the pin 2), but they don't line up straight enough to use the punch to get it pin 2 out the other side. For what it's worth, pin 2 is completely within the lead screw nut, and it's still not coming out. The collar (outside the lead screw nut) at the back end seems to be perhaps rusted in place?

I ended up slicing through the cap almost in half with a Dremel cutoff wheel, and it's still firmly jammed in there. At this point it's becoming a salvage operation on a brand new vise. I was tired, and got home late, so didn't spend a whole lot of time on it. Sprayed underneath the cap with Kroil to let it penetrate overnight.

I also checked with Sears customer service. This vise is completely unavailable at this point - I'm gonna guess it's being discontinued.

I'm running out of ideas. I'm also messing up the [crappy] paint. My plan now is to slice up the end cap some more (perhaps quarter it, or more), and try to pry out at least one section, that should free things up enough to get it apart. I'll probably get it blasted and powder coated before lube and reassembly. Didn't even mount it on the bench yet. Probably could've just mount it and start using as-is, but...

Eh, well. I'm in it now, might as well see it through (I have to, it's sort of useless at the moment).

I'm completely doubting ice (on the cap) or heat (on the casting) is going to remedy this; it's going to be a good, old-fashioned slug fest. But at the end of the day, I'll have some peace of mind.

 

[rd400guy]

I guess I should've looked at this post a little closer.

The way this vise is built, the lead screw nut and collar can ONLY come out through the back.

 

[Nick Danger]

Can you drill holes in it, insert a steel rod, and pry off?

 

[LG63]

I also checked with Sears customer service. This vise is completely unavailable at this point - I'm gonna guess it's being discontinued.

It does seem that way, when I tried to add one to my shopping cart, it just takes me to a local store search. Hopefully it's a temporary situation.

 

[rd400guy]

Can you drill holes in it, insert a steel rod, and pry off?

Hmm, didn't think of that. Might work.

It does seem that way, when I tried to add one to my shopping cart, it just takes me to a local store search. Hopefully it's a temporary situation.

Just did another chat with Sears customer service. No details as to when this is coming back in stock. I second that this is hopefully temporary. Despite the issues I'm having, I'd still pick up another one if I could. The days of the $120, 60 ksi iron, Wilton 1745 knock-off may be coming to an end.

 

[zoomieport]

I've had vises that were siezed up tight and didn't have this much of a problem busting them loose, that thing must be in there TIGHT! I wish I could help, good luck, keep us posted...

ZOOM

 

[rd400guy]

I've had vises that were siezed up tight and didn't have this much of a problem busting them loose, that thing must be in there TIGHT! I wish I could help, good luck, keep us posted...

ZOOM

Yeah, I should've done a better inspection in the store. I think the big problem here is that it's not in straight, and someone forced it in crooked. Couple that with no real lubrication and a trip via sea freight, and it's my headache.

I'll definitely update new developments. FWIW, last night on the way home, I saw a billboard for a new powder coater in my area - so all the banging away and chipped paint will let me evaluate the new company's work and prices.

 

[LG63]

Do you have access to a welder? You could weld a piece of 2-1/4" tail pipe (short adaptor from auto parts store) to the cap and that would give you a handle to beat on and possibly get some movement on the cocked side. 2" Sch 40 pipe would work better but may be hard to find a short piece.
You could even rig up a slide hammer to attach to the pipe.

 

[Outlawmws]

I've had vises that were siezed up tight and didn't have this much of a problem busting them loose, that thing must be in there TIGHT! I wish I could help, good luck, keep us posted...

ZOOM

I've been working on getting a reed 205R dynamic slide out of the effing body for 3-1/2 weeks now. It's stubborn...

 

[rd400guy]

I don't have ready access to a welder. Had to cut grass last night, didn't get a chance to work on it. Hopefully tonight.

 

[LG63]

This his how it starts. Clearly, you need to buy a welder and then a bandsaw to build a welding table and then a vise off of craigslist to hold you over until you get this one back together. Five years from now you'll look back and wonder how one stuck cap led to a 40 x 60 shop full of tools.

 

[rd400guy]

This his how it starts. Clearly, you need to buy a welder and then a bandsaw to build a welding table and then a vise off of craigslist to hold you over until you get this one back together. Five years from now you'll look back and wonder how one stuck cap led to a 40 x 60 shop full of tools.

Ha, I was thinking a Bridgeport should be top of the list.

 

[rd400guy]

So, the update:

Short story, I got it off, re-lubed, mounted to bench, it works great - no cap on the end.

The long story:
I continued my plan from my post above, cutting a "pie slice" out of the cap with the Dremel & a cut-off wheel. I then bent that piece up, and yanked/pried using a vise grips, to [hopefully] tear out the pie slice and free up the rest of the cap. That didn't work.

Also as I mentioned above, one of the pins I had gotten out. I ended up lining up a punch to push the remaining pin completely within the lead screw nut, so that cast piece could move freely within the collar... and could contact the end cap. Using a hammer handle as an "extension", I ever so gently pushed against the end cap with the lead screw nut - in other words, hammer handle down the barrel, smashing the end of it with a BFH. The cap finally started to move a little. Continued this for about 5 minutes, and the cap, mangled and sliced up, popped out of the end.

After that, the lead screw nut and collar came out very easily. I cleaned all the nasty grease off everything, and reassembled, using anti-seize lubricant as the lube. There is no end cap on the vise, but unless you're "spraying" chips/filings at it, I doubt I'll get much **** in there.

I'm still looking for an automotive "freeze" plug as was suggested near the beginning of this thread, but the ID of the barrel is 2-9/16", apparently a very large and uncommon size. I've emailed one supplier about getting a single freeze plug, and am awaiting their response.

The vise has already seen much use in the meantime. Dang, how did I get along all these years without a vise?

Welder is looking like a very smart next purchase.

 

[KMScott]

That is a od ball size end cap. Actually comes out to 65mm, might check to see if they make a 65mm freeze plug or dust cap for a trailer axle.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I've been working on getting a reed 205R dynamic slide out of the effing body for 3-1/2 weeks now. It's stubborn...

Send it to me, I'll show it who's boss...

 

[rd400guy]

Just a follow up, ordered a 2-9/16" freeze plug from freezeplugfactory.com, since there's essentially no chance I'll find one at a local auto parts store. We'll see how it does.

 

[LG63]

Should have guessed there would be a website dedicated to freeze plugs. Any idea how deep the dish is, I didn't see any dimensions for depth.

 

[rd400guy]

Should have guessed there would be a website dedicated to freeze plugs. Any idea how deep the dish is, I didn't see any dimensions for depth.

I'll find out in a few business days. The end of the "internals" is relatively flush with the "external" casting, so minimal is required. In all honesty, I probably don't even need to put it in, but...

In any case, I'll do a quick measure, install, and snap some pics.