stud extractors

[metal1313]

i have a job to do soon, where i think i'd best have a really good stud puller around before hand. the passenger side manifold on my 07 f150 is leaking and from what i've read and seen the studs will most likely break if they havent already. most say they tend to seize in the manifold flange but some break near the head as well.

the studs are pretty small, undersized which prob leads to so many of the issues, this leak is a pretty common issue. there is also the issue of steel hardware in an aluminum head to deal with. i do have a welder, but that is, as always my last resort. im not sure of the exact stud size, but i believe the nut are 13mm.

id like recomendations on a 3jaw puller, the style that looks like a drill chuck. i've used one in the past, however it was for 1/2-3/4 hardware and i no longer have access to it.

and hey if anyone has recommendations or tips on passenger side exhaust manifold removal on a 5.4 3v 2007 f150 that be nice too. i have a pretty good idea of what im in for

 

[bobcatdan]

The AST stud sockets work good for me. As for tricks, I soak everything down a few days before if I can. If I can clean the nuts and studs before soaking, even better. A hand impact seems to work nice to jarring nuts loose. Other then that, patience and knowing when a bolt are going to break are all you can do.

 

[Durka]

Huh, I thought that problem ended in 03. The transmission mount would wear out, then snap the rear studs (pass side).

That job doesn't require a puller of any kind. On the 07's, the studs are stainless, but the nuts are not. First time I've heard the 07's or any 3valve with this problem. The 10th generation F150's did though, the passenger side back two would break.

To fix that and if you any of the stud left, - weld a nut to , then get right on it while it's hot. If it's flush, weld a washer then a nut to it. If you can't do that, you'll need to get a good center punch on the broken stud. Then use a left handed drill bit to drill it out (Cobalt is the best , M42 or a HSS bit if you have one available. Once you begin drilling, the stud backs out fairly quick as it heats up when drilling.

Good Luck!

 

[greasemonkey44]

I bought a Titan from northern that has saved my bacon many times. I bought it on a whim for broken exhaust studs and it works wonders.

 

[Bull]

Titan.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192639&highlight=titan+stud

 

[OxJaw]

I used the craftsman bolt out set on the studs.

I was in need of an OA torch set up for sometime and finally bought one when I had to replace both manifolds on my 99 F150.

I torched the manifold runners of flush with the manifold flange, it was very messy and didn't really torch that well since they are cast. After that I torched the nuts and studs flush with the flange and then pulled the flange off, which left a decent amount of the stud. I then hammered the tightest bolt extractor I had on the exposed stud and then heated the head around the stud. Most came out fairly easy.

 

[metal1313]

from what ive read its still a pretty common issue, ususally the rear 2 studs break and/or the rear of the manifold warps. i also dont beleive the studs are stainless from the factory but im not sure, from the looks of them the are pretty crappy stainless if they are

 

[Durka]

from what ive read its still a pretty common issue, ususally the rear 2 studs break and/or the rear of the manifold warps. i also dont beleive the studs are stainless from the factory but im not sure, from the looks of them the are pretty crappy stainless if they are

The studs should be stainless. Well, you won't be able to tell until they're out. The steel nuts and manifold is what rusts the worst. The studs will too, eventually. Stainless WILL rust and pit, but it takes awhile. Being an 07, the studs themselves shouldn't be that bad at this time. Let us know on that once get into it.

Like someone mention above, a little heat goes along way since the heads are aluminum. Might even surprise yuh and back right out. The nuts won't , but the studs might.

Good luck, hope it goes well.

 

[BFHtime]

Has anyone tried welding the nut to the stud to begin with. Then use new hardware when you put it back together. It might be easier to do it from the beginning, if there is enough access to weld it, should be able to get some that way.

I have sprayed with PB blaster in the morning and then at night for a few days prior which seemed to help a good amount. Good luck.

 

[tibwd]

Ford continues to "improve " the exhaust manifold fastening hardware. Latest offering is gen 7 !! The titan puller works nice, but nuts need to be off first, cut off prior to attempt, and remove the exhaust manifold off the studs. By doing this way, you have the best chance, and most material to remove the studs. freeze/heat cycles, along with your favorite penetrant can help as well. Stainless is not oem , the latest studs from FORD are copper colored. Not sure of the exact material makeup. Drilling is required if you break flush, and you can't or don't weld. Have purchased heads with broken extractors in them, and been able to remove and heli coil/timesert. One other problem is the head material itself can often break off/rust away !! You then need an expert at brazing cast , or new/rebuilt heads. In areas with winter salting sanding, passenger sides usually go first. Ford makes great trucks, but way too many problems like this, along wth spark plugs, and body rust. At least the frames don't rust away , like GM Silverados and Sierras!!

 

[OxJaw]

One other problem is the head material itself can often break off/rust away !! You then need an expert at brazing cast , or new/rebuilt heads.

I don't believe Ford ever offered any of the Mod Motors with cast iron heads, AFAIK they've always been aluminum.

 

[metal1313]

i just did the plugs a few weeks ago, didnt go so bad, broke 2, which came out easily with the lisle extractor tool, took about 4 hours.

i'll pick up an extractor tool, and i guess a new dremel as well to cut the nuts off. i'll be replacing the manifold so i dont care if i damage it, not that i would a lot anyway. i wish i could find some heavy flange shortie headers for a decent price, but the stock manifolds flow decent enough

 

[Durka]

i just did the plugs a few weeks ago, didnt go so bad, broke 2, which came out easily with the lisle extractor tool, took about 4 hours.

i'll pick up an extractor tool, and i guess a new dremel as well to cut the nuts off. i'll be replacing the manifold so i dont care if i damage it, not that i would a lot anyway. i wish i could find some heavy flange shortie headers for a decent price, but the stock manifolds flow decent enough

I wouldn't cut the nuts off just yet...

Shorty headers won't do anything for performance for the Mod motors. Long tube headers will give yuh a nice bump in performance.

You can just use a Dorman replacement manifold. Or the dealership of course. Rock Auto is a good internet store to use.

 

[Dave455]

If you are faced with metric you can use a Ko Ken stud extractor, which are the best I've ever used! There are 3 rollers which grip the stud as you turn the tool!

The problem is that they don't operate over a huge range, so each tool is more or less unique to each metric stud size, but it sounds like you have got 8mm studs, so this is an option!

There are 2 styles available, one like a ratchet that you use from the side, and the other (more useful) that you use from above!

 

[Givl Reggin]

Ford makes great trucks, but way too many problems like this, along wth spark plugs, and body rust.

It's hard to believe that after 100+ years of building vehicles we're still seeing problems like this.

If those damn engineers would stop trying to justify their positions and stop redesigning things for the sake of redesigning we'd have much better quality overall and a lot less problems.

 

[n8n]

If you are faced with metric you can use a Ko Ken stud extractor, which are the best I've ever used! There are 3 rollers which grip the stud as you turn the tool!

The problem is that they don't operate over a huge range, so each tool is more or less unique to each metric stud size, but it sounds like you have got 8mm studs, so this is an option!

There are 2 styles available, one like a ratchet that you use from the side, and the other (more useful) that you use from above!

Thanks for that, I have exactly one Stahlwille stud remover and would have suggested it as it's great except for the fact that AFAIK you can't buy them anymore. The Ko-Ken ones look functionally identical, so if I need one in the future I know where to go!

 

[metal1313]

I'm gonna use the dorman manifolds, I agree shorties are not worth it for this truck and long tubes aren't in the budget. I'll end up doing this in a few weeks I bet. Maybe I'll add in my leveling kit at the same time.