Hello all. About to get started framing and was wondering what the advantage is of one vs the other. My local lumber yard is out of 117 2x6 so offered up full length 10’ studs at the same cost. The wall will be sitting on 14” of block stem wall and a pressure treated 2x8 sill plate. I figure that already throws off an even 10’ wall using 117” studs, so might as go for the full 10’. Any suggestions?
Stud length, 117” vs 120”
- Thread starter Smitty75
- Start date
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just figure the cost difference per ft2 for the additional sheathing, siding, insulation, drywall. paint, etc. If you're good with it, not reason not to.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Weigh having to include an additional 3" of sheathing with cutting 3" off the studs to keep your 10' wall height.
cstmg8
Well-known member
It Should be as simple as "are they long enough to make the planned wall?". Aren't you building to a set height?
If you're asking if it will hurt to make the walls 3" taller, that depends on other materials.
Will the exterior covering be adequate at 3" taller?
Will the wall height need to match anything else?
Is there any code or permit it has to meet?
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If you're asking if it will hurt to make the walls 3" taller, that depends on other materials.
Will the exterior covering be adequate at 3" taller?
Will the wall height need to match anything else?
Is there any code or permit it has to meet?
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Even with 117" studs, a bottom plate plus double top plate makes you 1.5" above an even 10 feet.
What are you siding with outside and finishing with inside? That will drive the material sizes you can get and whether it's cost effective or not. That said, exact multiple's of 2's (8, 10, 12 feet) and even better 4's (8, 12, 16 feet) are usually the best sizes.
What are you siding with outside and finishing with inside? That will drive the material sizes you can get and whether it's cost effective or not. That said, exact multiple's of 2's (8, 10, 12 feet) and even better 4's (8, 12, 16 feet) are usually the best sizes.
Are you building the wall on top of the PT sill plate or using the PT sill plate as the bottom of the stud wall ?
14" stem wall with a 120" + double top plate + bottom plate and PT sill plate gives you a 11.5' side wall. Are you required to be under any height for local codes ?
For not much more money, you can gain an extra 18" of wall. I say why not ?
14" stem wall with a 120" + double top plate + bottom plate and PT sill plate gives you a 11.5' side wall. Are you required to be under any height for local codes ?
For not much more money, you can gain an extra 18" of wall. I say why not ?
Correct, the plan is to have the wall site on top of the PT sill plate. No local codes, just 2015 IRC which I believe is a 10' max unsupported stud length on a bearing wall. My biggest concern was to fit a 9' tall garage door, and try to get a few extra inches by way of a stem wall for an overhang I can back my camper under. I was going to have a framer do everything, but after the experience I had getting my house framed and with the garage foundation so far, I'm done paying for half *** work. So I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. Not in any time crunch and fairly handy, just need to figure out all the IRC requirements related to headers, nailing and such.
klassenl
Well-known member
My understanding of common framing is that you want your rough height of the wall to be 10ft 1in. That way you can put 1/2 drywall on the ceiling and then you can have 1/2 space under the bottom of the drywall. So 10ft "studs" are ~116 1/2
This may not be as important in the shop as it is in a house especially if you're framing on a stem wall.
This may not be as important in the shop as it is in a house especially if you're framing on a stem wall.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I'd grab the 120 in and cut them shorter. Be sure to figure in advance whether you need a double top plate or not. One requirement I have seen is regarding setting trusses on top of the wall. If you can set the trusses right over the wall studs then can use a single top plate. If not, need a double top plate. This is more common because so many times trusses are on 24 inch centers while the wall studs are on 16 in centers. I am not engineer but I wouldn't want to have to cut 3 inch strips of OSB to finish off the top of the wall. You would lose all the strength that is added by having the one sheet connected to both the studs and the top plates.
Put your strip in the middle of the wall...leave the top/bottom sheets full to tie the plate together.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Go for it, unless you can buy siding 10 feet long and run it vertical. You might as well.
rburke65
Well-known member
I took ever extra inch I could get.
matt_i
Well-known member
I didn't love the squareness of the precut ends on my studs and sliced each one to length with a miter saw. Was it work, yes, but the joints are tighter.
I would use the double top plate. Not every truss is going to hit a stud unless its perfectly designed for that and the concrete work perfectly matches the plans.
From a cost perspective if you rip the last sheet of plywood to 23-15/16" (down the dead center of a 48" wide sheet) you can use both sides for sheathing. But you have to have planned it that way and have the total wall at 48 + 48 + 23-15/16" tall.
I would use the double top plate. Not every truss is going to hit a stud unless its perfectly designed for that and the concrete work perfectly matches the plans.
From a cost perspective if you rip the last sheet of plywood to 23-15/16" (down the dead center of a 48" wide sheet) you can use both sides for sheathing. But you have to have planned it that way and have the total wall at 48 + 48 + 23-15/16" tall.
couch67
Well-known member
couch67
Well-known member
cutting that many studs ***** but its quick work. Much faster than cutting sheathing / finishing so I'd factor that into what you do.
gtae07
Well-known member
Check your local code requirements. Double top plate may be required regardless (it is here, because of hurricane wind loads).
I'm thinking about this too. I am planning to set my walls on a PT still plate and using a full length stud so I end up with a double bottom and double top. As a result, the wall would be 10'6". Even at 10', if I let my OSB overlap my foundation by 1", I'd still have to rip sheets to cover the wall height. Am I thinking about this right? Is this also going to cause all kinds of issues with my drywall on the inside?
Sorry to hijack this thread but hopefully on topic!
Sorry to hijack this thread but hopefully on topic!
thooks
Well-known member
Did you ask if they have 116-5/8" instead of 117"?
Because that's what you need.
Because that's what you need.
I ended up going full lengths, so will have a 10’6” wall. Had forgotten that my trusses sit on top of the bottom truss cord, so will add an extra 7.5” on top of that for sheathing anyways. Framing starts this weekend.
Michigan Mike
Well-known member
You might want to double check the length. Studs are cut to a exact length 10, 12, 14, 16, foot long are not cut precisely and can vary a quarter to half inch in length
CraigStu
Well-known member
This why I love forums. That is such a simple and effective solution I know I would have thought of it....or maybe not. Thank you.