Stud used as a spacer now stuck

[PhantomEB]

Stupid me....

Doing a clutch kit on my Polaris ATV. Went cheap after some google and YouTube. Cut a bolt off above threads and below head to use as a spacer in a reduced bolt hole inside a bigger bolt hole in the primary clutch. Imagine this is part of the crank....

Well got the job done on the clutch kit...now that ‘spacer’ is stuck inside the shaft!

3/4” bolt hole down 2” then to 1/4” threaded about 1” deep....that dowel is a just fit but ain’t coming out with a magnet.

Sorry if it’s been covered or it’s a brain fart but Help! I want this job done tomorrow.

 

[DGersic]

Stronger magnet. Or get it vertical and tap with a hammer, let gravity work for you.


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[red61cj5]

If you have a stick welder reach a rod down and burn to it. That should hold enough to pull it out.

 

[bad_idea]

Do you have one of those grabbers that you push the button and four small, thin metal fingers come out the end? Might have enough grip to pull it out.

 

[Bondo]

If you have a stick welder reach a rod down and burn to it. That should hold enough to pull it out.

Ayuh,...... 'n slide a small piece of plastic tubin' over the weldin' rod before ya start,.....

That way, the arc can Only go the the piece ya wanta remove, 'n not to any of the important parts next to it,.....

It'll stink alittle, but it worth it,....

 

[PoorOwner]

its not clear your rod inserted is 1/4 or 3/4?

a regular pen sized magnet isn't going to do it

you can try to turn a can of compressor air duster, and use the straw to shoot some of the frost spray onto the rod, it may shrink it enough to free it.

the other issue could be you have weight binding on the piece, I don't know what you are working on, maybe if you can unbolt the surrounding bolts of whatever plate is holding and wiggle to get it out.

 

[PhantomEB]

The ‘spacer’ is in the 1/4” bolt hole.

Tipping the quad on its side is a last resort as it’s a 400 lb beast.

No stick welder here yet.

Will try the compressed air as well WD40.

Possible might have to get some long shank drill bits and work at it that way.

 

[LXCam]

Super glue gel and a pencil using the eraser end. Spray it off with brake cleaner first.

 

[oldmxracer]

If I understand correctly, the clutch is still on the crank ?

Do not know if this might help

https://www.prcforum.com/forum/24-ranger-technical/41151-major-problems-clutch-primary.html

I have seen some videos of homemade pullers but I always just ordered the correct puller.

Good luck !

 

[matt_i]

A left handed drill bit would work if there is room for the drill itself...but I'd want to start the pilot hole using a bushing to make sure its centered. One way would be with some metal tubing same size as OD (1/4"?), or could make this on a lathe.

 

[MattVette89]

Try a little jb weld epoxy on the end of another piece of longer metal. Stick it to the spacer piece and let it set up, then pull out.

 

[kelpaso1]

When you used the big bolt on the clutch hub to push against the smaller bolt you used as the "pusher" rod you put inside the crank hole it probably bent that bolt and now is wedged inside the threaded crank hole. I think your best chance may be to drill the center of the stuck bolt big enough to tap a 1/4 inch hole in it and screw in a long 1/4 inch bolt and use a small slide hammer with a visegrip on the bolt. I had this happen before, what a pain in the ***. I now use grade 8 bolts now when I need a pusher bolt in those situations.

 

[oldmxracer]

When you used the big bolt on the clutch hub to push against the smaller bolt you used as a "pusher" you put inside the crank hole it probably bent that bolt and now is wedged inside the threaded crank hole. I think your best chance may be to drill the center of the stuck bolt big enough to tap a 1/4 inch hole in it and screw in a long 1/4 inch bolt and use a small slide hammer with a visegrip on the bolt. I had this happen before, what a pain in the ***. I now use grade 8 bolts now when I need a pusher bolt in those situations.

I believe from the op's original post this what has happened " the pusher is now wedge "

Unfortunately sounds like the clutch is still on the crank when the op says

" Possible might have to get some long shank drill bits and work at it that way. "

I have been very close to this before !

That is where I learned it was not worth the hassle, if I do not own the correct puller, I will own a new tool !

 

[PhantomEB]

I believe from the op's original post this what has happened " the pusher is now wedge "

Unfortunately sounds like the clutch is still on the crank when the op says

" Possible might have to get some long shank drill bits and work at it that way. "

I have been very close to this before !

That is where I learned it was not worth the hassle, if I do not own the correct puller, I will own a new tool !

Broke and bored is a BAD combination. Next time it will be buy the damn tool!

Gonna try the super glue way before I start drilling for an easy out... hope I can work it out that way.

 

[Cougar]

Would a shop vac with a small tube on the end do it?

 

[PhantomEB]

Would a shop vac with a small tube on the end do it?

Nope.

Superglue didn’t work either.

Got me a 12” long 3/16 bit(guess first of the collection now). Just spinning it in the bolt hole.... gonna keep at this route until hopefully the extractor digs in.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Crank it over a little. Maybe it will "rattle" out.

Tommy

 

[brewchief]

If the clutch is still on the water trick trick may work to remove it if it's like a snowmobile clutch. If you don't want to tip it on it's side to use water you can use grease instead but it's a lot more clean up. Google water trick to see how it works, with the clutch off you would have more room to work.

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[kelpaso1]

For future reference, next time you or someone else needs to remove the primary clutch on a Polaris atv you take the bolt out holding the clutch to crank. After that is out use a 5/8" X 3 1/2" long bolt with the head cut off and stick it in the hole. Then use your 3/4" bolt to press against this pusher. The 5/8" pusher bolt sits right against the end of the crank snout and NOT inside the threaded hole in the end of the crank. and not cause the bent 1/4" bolt you used to bend inside the crank hole and jamming it in there.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Every time I see this post I think 2 x 4 stud... Next time use a cutoff wheel or hacksaw to cut a slot in the top of it so that you can remove it with a small screwdriver. Even better would be to know the size and thread in advance and buy a 1" long Allen screw and then use a hex driver to remove it.

 

[PhantomEB]

Got the clutch off with the bigger spacer and shorter bolt. Turns out the longer one was being held up by the thicker shaft. Now I got room to fix that Fubared piece in there on Boxing Day and rip up The back lane when it’s all back together.