Stud walls 12" O.C. ??

[kpendlet]

I am having my shop framed as we speak. It is 40x35 with a 12x10 door and a 16x14 door. There will be an upstairs over the area that has the 12x10 door. All of the walls are framed and they are just starting to install the roof trusses over the high side. They framed the walls 12" o.c. for some reason and I'm a bit irritated as I am doing the insulation and I've never seen 12" bat insulation before. Can you even buy it or am I going to have to cut and waste standard sized insulation There's nothing I can do about it now, but I am really ticked off because it makes an already crappy job worse by having to cut the stuff = 3x the installation time.

Thanks for reading - I'll take any words of wisdom.

 

[NHCharger]

How tall are the walls?
2x4 or 2x6 studs? Might be a code issue if you have walls taller than 12' and are using 2x4's. I use nothing but 2x6 up here except for an attached garage. We also have to run blocking between the studs on any wall taller than 12'.
I'm not sure if you can buy insualtion for 12"O.C., unless it's a special order. You can alway buy 24" insulation and cut it in half.
Did you ask the builder why 12" O.C.?

 

[RedRacer74]

In the Residential Code of New York State Table 602.3.1
2 x 4 @12"oc. is for 10 to 12 ft. heights max. supporting roof only.
This 12 " oc. spacing may have to do with your wall height vs. your framing size choice 2 x 4 vs. 2 x 6 ( possibly based on cost of material )
2 x 6 framing at 16"oc. would have given you the spacing desired but raised the cost of construction.

I see you are in Ga. and they may have a similar code as most states are adopting versions of the International Building Code ( Mass. and Ct. are next !!!) NY just took it added a few minor changes and put their name on it.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Owens Corning does not list 12" insualtion bats.

http://www.owenscorning.com/comminsul/documents/thermalbatt_eng.pdf

*****

Look at this, verticall perforated bats for non standard stud spacing.

http://www.jmhomeinsulation.com/pdfs/EasyFit.pdf

*****

CertainTeeded has exactly what you are looking for, 11" wide kraft faced fiberglass batts in various thicknesses/R-values for different thickness walls.

http://www.certainteed.com/NR/rdonlyres/ED854358-375B-4A44-8412-DCE3325CA743/0/30211312.pdf

*****

For further reference.

http://www.insulate.org/insul_fiber.html


Hope this helps

Charles

 

[kpendlet]

Thanks for all of the replies. I don't believe it is a code issue, but I'll check into that. The walls are 2x6 framed which is another reason I am confused. The builder said that the plans called for 12 o.c. framing, but I just looked at my set of plans and it specifically states 16". He also said that he was doing everything that he would do if he were building it for himself - I can appreciate that, but I wish he would run things by me first since I'm footing the bill. Regardless, I am thrilled to finally have a real shop to work in

Thanks again - I will look into the other options posted.

 

[z28toz06]

While it might be stronger, if its not on th eplans figure out how much extra he spent on the studs and take it off the bill at the end. Now you have to drill more holes to get the wiring through the walls. It will increase your work load and piss off the other contractors. I have never heard of 12"oc studs. I just built a 10' high 24X32 foot 2X4 walled garage and we are 16"o.c. I am in Connecticut with heavy snow load ratings and its not code here.

 

[kpendlet]

While it might be stronger, if its not on th eplans figure out how much extra he spent on the studs and take it off the bill at the end. Now you have to drill more holes to get the wiring through the walls. It will increase your work load and piss off the other contractors. I have never heard of 12"oc studs. I just built a 10' high 24X32 foot 2X4 walled garage and we are 16"o.c. I am in Connecticut with heavy snow load ratings and its not code here.

My point exactly, especially since I'm the one doing all of the wiring, insulation, and water.

 

[krooser]

Some guys just don't read the instructions...I moved and rebuilt my pole building and the guy that pulled the poles and trusses and re-set them at my place didn't observe the plans I submitted to the building inspector (he actually set them closer than the plans called for and put in one extra truss).

However, the inspector never even whipped out a tape measure and signed off with only a cursory inspection.

Good luck.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Thats at least 30 additional studs, possibly as many as 40 more.

Charles

 

[sberry]

I have cut 24 inch batts in half while rolled up with a large kitchen knife but the paper likely extends further on the 11 inch.

 

[kpendlet]

Thats at least 30 additional studs, possibly as many as 40 more.

Charles

I forgot to mention that they also installed engineered floor joists for the second floor at 12" o.c. - not just the wall studs. At least the roof trusses are standard spacing.

 

[swgray]

I forgot to mention that they also installed engineered floor joists for the second floor at 12" o.c. - not just the wall studs. At least the roof trusses are standard spacing.

That may or may not be standard spacing. It depends on size of joists and distance they span.

 

[JeremySmith]

Use blown-in insulation in the walls. It's been going in most of the new houses I'm doing. Takes care of lots of problems, a little more expensive (around here at least) but very slick product. If your plans show 16", have the contractor meet you halfway - "I'll pay for the extra studs, you pay for the insulation upgrade."

 

[DynoDave]

Some guys just don't read the instructions...

Hey, I resemble that comment!

Looking at the bright side, with 2x6 walls, 12 o.c., and engineered floor joists, the building out to stand up to just about anything.

 

[Bill K]

Another option is the expanding foam that is sprayed directly in the stud bays, then shaved flush with the studs after it has fully expanded. I am sure it is a bit more than conventional insulation. Upside is it's fast and makes for a very well sealed structure. There may be a contractor in your area that does this, may be worth the time savings to pay a bit more.

 

[NHCharger]

That may or may not be standard spacing. It depends on size of joists and distance they span.

nkj

 

[NHCharger]

I forgot to mention that they also installed engineered floor joists for the second floor at 12" o.c. - not just the wall studs. At least the roof trusses are standard spacing.

Are you clear spanning the entire 35'? According to my referance book on engineered wood products by Boise you can span 36'4" with a 16" 90 series I Joist @ 12" O.C. . Maybe the builder wanted the joists to line up over the studs so the load is transferred directly to the studs.
The houses I build are all 16" O.C. and we alway line up all the studs and joists. Your better off having a builder that over builds and cares about the quality, these days we hear way too many stories about "bad" builders.

 

[kpendlet]

Are you clear spanning the entire 35'? According to my referance book on engineered wood products by Boise you can span 36'4" with a 16" 90 series I Joist @ 12" O.C. . Maybe the builder wanted the joists to line up over the studs so the load is transferred directly to the studs.
The houses I build are all 16" O.C. and we alway line up all the studs and joists. Your better off having a builder that over builds and cares about the quality, these days we hear way too many stories about "bad" builders.

You are correct about the over building - I'm over the initial reaction. I agreed on the price thinking it would be 16 OC, so I guess I'm getting more for my money than I agreed to.

I am attaching a couple of some pics that show progress so far - hopefully they will show up. The floor joists for the upper level run from left to right on the low side and span about 22 ft.

 

[krooser]

I like the foam insulation idea....great way to go in your instance...efficient, too.

 

[TOMWELDS]

Get 24" faceless, cut in half, then cover the wall with vapor barrier plastic

 

[kpendlet]

I like the foam insulation idea....great way to go in your instance...efficient, too.

The only problem with foam is it makes it very difficult to ever add any wiring down the road. I plan to over wire the shop, but you never know...

 

[Bill K]

The only problem with foam is it makes it very difficult to ever add any wiring down the road. I plan to over wire the shop, but you never know...

Good point, If you did use foam you could allways run some empty 3/4 to 1 inch pvc in some of the areas you may want to add wire. I ran two of these from my basement to the attic when we built our home 10 yrs ago. They have come in handy as I have fished additional lines thru one now. Next job is to run some cat5 upstairs in the other.