Stud weld dent puller

[fred d]

I have been doing research about different stud welders for dent pulling

There are different colors(yellow, blue, pink, red) yellow being the cheapest in most cases.
The other colors are usually 2-3x higher priced. Anyone know why?

I have seen the Eastwood kit that just has the tube, and slide hammer for $100

I have done a search hear and everyone talks mostly about the HF tool

The snap on one is just to high for my budget

 

[countryroad82]

I bought this set 10 years ago http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/uni-spotter-starter-kit-plus-4550-p-16146.aspx fixed more dents than I care to even attempt to count with it. One of these days I might invest in the 'wiggle wire' attachment but I have made due with just the starter kit for so long I would hate to invest in the add on kit and find out it isn't what it's cracked up to be. Anyway the Uni Spotter is what most guys in my area use mine hasn't let me down ever and it gets used on a daily basis.

 

[03protege]

Are these mainly for nice circular style dents or are they able to pull out more straight crease like dents?

 

[ianguilly]

Are these mainly for nice circular style dents or are they able to pull out more straight crease like dents?

Both, i've used a blue one from eastwood at home and gotten all kinds of dents out.

 

[ZRX61]

Any dents, I've used mine on creases.

 

[creativecars]

I have been doing research about different stud welders for dent pulling

There are different colors(yellow, blue, pink, red) yellow being the cheapest in most cases.
The other colors are usually 2-3x higher priced. Anyone know why?

I have seen the Eastwood kit that just has the tube, and slide hammer for $100

I have done a search hear and everyone talks mostly about the HF tool

The snap on one is just to high for my budget

The stud guns are just a resistance spot welder in a gun form that will accept the pulling studs. Most are the same design.
I have used several including the uni-spotter mentioned earlier.
All of them work ok, so I would be checking out who has the best customer service for you, just incase something does go wrong.
The Eastwood kit you mentioned uses a mig welder to weld the studs on. I didn’t like the idea when the welder companies brought out the idea years ago. I would still rather use a stud gun. Snap-On does not make their welding equipment, they buy it from someone else and put their stickers on it, so I would not waste my time or money with their version.

 

[Trey T]

Magna-Spot 1000 is a good unit. I bought this after HF one.

It's made in USA.

 

[stricht8]

I have a Magna spot as well. Don't remember the number but it's red. It's definitely a good tool.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Best ones are made by H&S Unishot.http://www.hsautoshot.com/WelderWarranty.html

If you are only going to be using it occasionally then any model they sell will do. If you plan on using it a lot then I would go with the Unispotter Deluxe. http://www.hsautoshot.com/9000.htmlIt has the biggest transformer of any on the market. Also any number of accesories are available for H&S machines like wiggle wire, etc.
I'm an Auto Body tech and have had H&S Deluxe for 14 years now. It still performs like new. And probably will for the next 15-20 years. Well worth the money.

 

[creativecars]

The HF is sitting at 100 right now, if you dont like HF I found this Uni-Spotter 4550 for $158.29. http://mechanicstoolsupply.com/Starter-Kit-Plus-Stud-Welder-Dent-Puller-Kit_p_17233.html
Both would work great to get you going. There are many accessories, but the only one that I think is really useful is the mini puller.

 

[Hammer1963]

Check out an Eagle II. If you invest in a dent puller like this, you'll never use a stud gun again. They are bullet proof and will weld studs, washers,wiggle wire, Tri plates, pull rods and can be used as a shrinking tool. Look for a good used one at a pawn shop or craigslist. The latest version is more compact and uses a carrying case.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Check out an Eagle II. If you invest in a dent puller like this, you'll never use a stud gun again. They are bullet proof and will weld studs, washers,wiggle wire, Tri plates, pull rods and can be used as a shrinking tool. Look for a good used one at a pawn shop or craigslist. The latest version is more compact and uses a carrying case.

Probably a lot more than the OP wanted to spend (seeing how he was looking at $100 HF stud pullers) You are right though, those machines are great. The shop I work at now has one, but I find I still prefer the stud gun, especially with a wiggle wire attachment. I pretty much can do everything the Shark can do with the stud gun. Shrink, washers, wiggle wire, etc., plus it's easier to move around and works on 115V.

On a different note, I've got a bunch of Proto body hammers that I need to put new handles on. 3 1427's, a 1425, 1426, and a 1416. I've read some posts where you talk about restoring old snappys and Proto's. What handles are gonna be closest to the originals? Snap-Ons? The original handles on the 1427's are really beautiful. Delicate, thin and balanced. Anything available that is close to the originals. especially the 1427? Snap-Ons handles are thicker and almost seem to big for the 1427 compared to and original handle. Or am I stuck having to modify a handle if I want it close to the original in terms of size and weight?

 

[Hammer1963]

Probably a lot more than the OP wanted to spend (seeing how he was looking at $100 HF stud pullers) You are right though, those machines are great. The shop I work at now has one, but I find I still prefer the stud gun, especially with a wiggle wire attachment. I pretty much can do everything the Shark can do with the stud gun. Shrink, washers, wiggle wire, etc., plus it's easier to move around and works on 115V.

On a different note, I've got a bunch of Proto body hammers that I need to put new handles on. 3 1427's, a 1425, 1426, and a 1416. I've read some posts where you talk about restoring old snappys and Proto's. What handles are gonna be closest to the originals? Snap-Ons? The original handles on the 1427's are really beautiful. Delicate, thin and balanced. Anything available that is close to the originals. especially the 1427? Snap-Ons handles are thicker and almost seem to big for the 1427 compared to and original handle. Or am I stuck having to modify a handle if I want it close to the original in terms of size and weight?

Finding original Proto/Plvmb/P&C handles is difficult. I have a couple of OEM handles from Proto, that I use as patterns to replicate handles for the mentioned hammers. I will see what I have in stock. Your are correct, the replacement handles for Snap-on are huge compared to the P/P/P handles and much bigger than older Snap-on/Blue point. I rarely use them for any of my hammer restorations.

 

[Hammer1963]

Probably a lot more than the OP wanted to spend (seeing how he was looking at $100 HF stud pullers) You are right though, those machines are great. The shop I work at now has one, but I find I still prefer the stud gun, especially with a wiggle wire attachment. I pretty much can do everything the Shark can do with the stud gun. Shrink, washers, wiggle wire, etc., plus it's easier to move around and works on 115V.

On a different note, I've got a bunch of Proto body hammers that I need to put new handles on. 3 1427's, a 1425, 1426, and a 1416. I've read some posts where you talk about restoring old snappys and Proto's. What handles are gonna be closest to the originals? Snap-Ons? The original handles on the 1427's are really beautiful. Delicate, thin and balanced. Anything available that is close to the originals. especially the 1427? Snap-Ons handles are thicker and almost seem to big for the 1427 compared to and original handle. Or am I stuck having to modify a handle if I want it close to the original in terms of size and weight?

My Eagle II is 110/115 volt, so I can move it around the shop with ease. The reason why I prefer the Eagle II is, there is no spring pressure on the tip, where as the Stud guns are spring loaded and require a push to activate. I found that on weakened, stretched or ultra thin steel, that there is no pressure put on the panel, therefore no "new" damage occurs during the repair.

I also have a MAC Compuspot that I use. It does use 220 and is less convenient to use. That usually stays at the frame rack.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Thanks for the response Hammer. I'll probably just modify some Martin Handles I have and work them down a bit. Mainly just want to get good near original size handles in them and replace the handles that are in them now. Once I get motivated I'll do it and post the results. I do have some original handles to go by.
I'd like to try one of the Eagle II's. Doing away with the 220V is a big plus imo. And I agree it can be a little tricky using the stud gun on some of the ultra thin sheetmetal out there. I did a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 last week and could not believe how thin the metal is on that truck. It's so thin that it's not strong enough in the door area to support the door handles. Every 2011, 2012 Dodge I've seen has depressions at the top and bottom of the door handles. After I repaired the one in the shop (which had door damage) the handles sucked back in. Some of these cars and trucks sheet metal gets any thinner OEM's would be just as well off to start making them out of paper mache!

 

[Hammer1963]

I was really lucky picking up the Eagle II. A local repair shop had purchased it for occasional use on their personal vehicles and upon closing the shop, they sold equipment dirt cheap. I'd say this unit had less than an hours use when I found it. For $200.00, I walked out with the Eagle II, a Pogo stick, 2 ****** chains with hooks, and a slide hammer. Damn good deal !

 

[fred d]

Probably a lot more than the OP wanted to spend (seeing how he was looking at $100 HF stud pullers)

I am a bit on the fence here. Not use to buying cheap tools. I tend to by the biggest and baddest so they will last

But not sure how much I will use this, so not wanting to spend over $250 for a good used one or new one

 

[bowtiepro3]

Another vote for H&S here. I have a 9000 Deluxe and it has probably stuck well over 50,000 nails and never stops! They have a starter kit that has a very good welder that's yellow and a nice slide hammer that goes with it. HS4500 if I recall. I only buy the H&S nails, they have a heavy weight and light weight, they are a few bucks more but are well worth it, and are far superior to others!

 

[bagsanthony]

I just picked up an Eagle II for 40 bucks!!!! It included a pry bar level tool that you pull on... now you said you can weld studs with it also, how do you do that?

 

[PCO6]

bagsanthony - The Eagle II basic unit in post #11 looks similar to my Porta-Spot. The attachments at the end of the leads however are quite different. The manual that came with mine doesn't show anything for adapting it for welding studs but the picture in post #11 has me wondering.

I bought mine at an estate sale in about 1980. The lady selling it told me it was an arc welder. When I told her it was a spot welder she started to argue with me. When she said she wanted $50 for it I just nodded my head and said ... "yep ... it's and arc welder". I had it checked out at a welding shop and they said the going price for it at the time it was about $1,150. It works perfectly.

 

[pl_silverado]

h&s all the way. i have a 5500 series in the classifieds.