Studding up block garage.

[pitterpat]

OK, In the house I love...now to get the garages in shape. I have 3 garage spaces, a 2 car and a 1 car.

The garage up at the house is a 2 car garage attached by an open breezeway; it is a uninsulated block garage. I am getting ready to stud the block garage because I can't get any of my cabinets mounted. But it will have to be studded and drywalled in stages, I can only afford to get it studded this year.

It has a hip roof and an open ceiling to the roof. My question is and maybe it is not a question but just wondering. I plan to have a bottom plate attached to the concrete and run the studs up the the rafter (abt 105") I will then attach the stud the the rafters with a 2 x 4 the that is basically attached to the side of the stud and to the rafter, I will not have a top plate. The rafters are 16" OC so I think that should make the studs pretty sturdy. I'm also only doing 1 side of the garage (the side without the walk in door) and the back wall of the garage. I think that much wall space should give me enough wall space to install most of my cabinets.

Next summer I may insulate it, I really don't see any use in insulating it because it does not have a common wall to the house and it's not heated.

Any other suggestions for studding?

 

[TommyK]

The method you describe will work, although I prefer to use a top plate especially if it is to be sheetrocked. Use pressure treated for the shoe.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Throwing up some pictures would help you get more responses. You'll probably get responses asking about insulation, so having a location (even a general location) filled in will help you with info gathering.

 

[bobemmerich]

The method you describe will work, although I prefer to use a top plate especially if it is to be sheetrocked. Use pressure treated for the shoe.

Agreed^^^. Also on insulation, depends on where you are. If you're going to work in there, and it gets cold in your area I would recommend it.

 

[pitterpat]

No pictures, it is a basic block garage with a hip roof. Will not be doing much work in there; I have a 2nd 16 x 22 garage that is unattached from the house to do work in. I do need to get this garage studded because of all the cabinets I have. Can't really get stuff put away until cabinets are up. I will put some cabinets in the other garage but only about 7' of bottom cabs and up to 8' of upper cabs. I have a lot of cabs, in my other house I had both sides of a 24' gar filled with cabs.

Both of my gar's are not attached by a common wall to the house, the bigger 2 car is attached to the house by an open breezeway.

 

[bczygan]

OK, In the house I love...now to get the garages in shape. I have 3 garage spaces, a 2 car and a 1 car.

The garage up at the house is a 2 car garage attached by an open breezeway; it is a uninsulated block garage. I am getting ready to stud the block garage because I can't get any of my cabinets mounted. But it will have to be studded and drywalled in stages, I can only afford to get it studded this year.

It has a hip roof and an open ceiling to the roof. My question is and maybe it is not a question but just wondering. I plan to have a bottom plate attached to the concrete and run the studs up the the rafter (abt 105") I will then attach the stud the the rafters with a 2 x 4 the that is basically attached to the side of the stud and to the rafter, I will not have a top plate. The rafters are 16" OC so I think that should make the studs pretty sturdy. I'm also only doing 1 side of the garage (the side without the walk in door) and the back wall of the garage. I think that much wall space should give me enough wall space to install most of my cabinets.

Next summer I may insulate it, I really don't see any use in insulating it because it does not have a common wall to the house and it's not heated.

Any other suggestions for studding?

You don't need stud walls to mount cabinets. They mount just fine on block walls.

Stud walls will hide electrical and plumbing and allow for insulation.

If you build a stud wall, then use a standard horizontal top plate.

 

[Zeke]

Seems like quite an expense just to mount cabinets when you could use the money in the garage you do work in. Is there a wall moisture problem in the first garage? If so, I guess the studding will be of more benefit.

People don't consider light ga. steel studs as often as they should. 2 x 3 steel would give you a great wall.

 

[pitterpat]

You don't need stud walls to mount cabinets. They mount just fine on block walls.

Stud walls will hide electrical and plumbing and allow for insulation.

If you build a stud wall, then use a standard horizontal top plate.

Don't want to poke holes in blocks....

 

[pitterpat]

Seems like quite an expense just to mount cabinets when you could use the money in the garage you do work in. Is there a wall moisture problem in the first garage? If so, I guess the studding will be of more benefit.

People don't consider light ga. steel studs as often as they should. 2 x 3 steel would give you a great wall.

The 2 car block gar is very cold in the winter....may insulate in a year or so...$$$$ is tight, but need to get cab's out of the way and mounted.

I could check out steel studs...problem being to attach to the top rafters of the hip roof. The reason for the funky attachment to the rafters is that they go at an angle to the roof. Not flat....pics tomorrow.

 

[pitterpat]

You don't need stud walls to mount cabinets. They mount just fine on block walls.

Stud walls will hide electrical and plumbing and allow for insulation.

If you build a stud wall, then use a standard horizontal top plate.

What's that top plate going to attach to?

 

[Zeke]

Pat, if you can nail the studs to the rafters, you can run a lateral plate on the bottom of those rafters. I think these guys are wrong; you don't really have to. It's just how it's done most of the time. One thing it helps with is getting a straight wall at the top. The plate might end up at an angle and you would definitely want to cut each stud as you go because they will vary.

If you snap a line on the bottom of the rafters and run the studs wild past the rafters and nail in from the side, you will have just as good of a wall as one with a plate.

The only other reason to have a top plate is to keep the drywall flat at the top with edge nailing. But if your cabinets are going to hide that, who cares?

Or you could run blocks, but that's more work than a plate for most.

Note: you might want to run blocks at the upper part of the cabinets for attaching. It's hell to find the center of a stud from inside a cabinet over drywall. I know, I've hung at least a mile of cabinets over my years.

Gotta love the French cleat.

 

[pitterpat]

Note: you might want to run blocks at the upper part of the cabinets for attaching. It's hell to find the center of a stud from inside a cabinet over drywall. I know, I've hung at least a mile of cabinets over my years.

Gotta love the French cleat.

I have thought about using French cleats to hang the cab.

 

[pitterpat]

I talked about studding the garage and not putting a top plate but basically adding a 2 x4 piece of wood attaching the stud to rafters. The reason for this is because this garage has a hip roof and the rafters sit on the top plate of the block wall, then they go up at an angle. There are 3 2 x 6's or 8's that run across the garage from one side to the other and that would be the only place to attach a top plate. So I think the idea of the piece of 2 x 4 spanning the studs and the rafters would make the wall much sturdier than attaching a top plate at 2 places. Or I could get some of those hurricane clips.
Here's a picture of the rafters and one of the cross ties.

 

[64dragnwagon]

You could use a top plate easily, just nail up into the cross braces AND toenail twoards the block side of the plate into the rafters. Your idea will work but you should add blocking between the studs to have a place to attach the drywall on the top between the studs. Either way will work fine. There are plenty of ways to skin this cat.

 

[rsanter]

I do not understand the aversion to 'poking holes in the block'
if it was me I would save the spave and either install free standing units or attack direct to the block wall

bob

 

[pitterpat]

You could use a top plate easily, just nail up into the cross braces AND toenail twoards the block side of the plate into the rafters. Your idea will work but you should add blocking between the studs to have a place to attach the drywall on the top between the studs. Either way will work fine. There are plenty of ways to skin this cat.

Yeah, I did use a top plate; here's the pictures of what I did.

Top plate attached to the 2 cross tie 2 x 6's. You'll see that I attached blocking at the top to the rafters by nailing through the blocking to the raftersand then attached the blocking to the top plate by nailing through the bottom of the top plate up.

Here's what the wall looks like. And I have a couple of cabinets sitting in front of it now.

 

[pitterpat]

I do not understand the aversion to 'poking holes in the block'
if it was me I would save the spave and either install free standing units or attack direct to the block wall

bob

Because in my opinion:

1. It looks like a HILLBILLY did the job.
2. In the future if I decide to insulate that garage then all I have to do is take the cabinets down.
3. More professional looking.
4. I feel SAFER with the walls studed up and the cab's on the studs.
5. Easier to put up pegboard with studs b/w the upper and lower cab's!

 

[pitterpat]

Last Saturday I got the wall up & I got a few cab's up Sunday.

This is what it looked like when I started this morning. I got at wall studded upi pm the other side and more cabinets put up.

and this is what it looks like now...still junky but tomorrow I will get it finished. I could get my truck in if I had to.

 

[pitterpat]

Ok, it has been a while since I posted. Have worked on this garage off and on. Here is what it looks like now:

I am going to add some 1 x 4's to hang up the shovels and other stuff. Then I am going to unload my storage unit into it.

 

[PCO6]

I have a block garage and rather than making stud walls I strapped them with 2"x3"s on 2' centres. I used 1.5" rigid foam insulation then covered everything with a 6 mil poly vapour barrier and drywall. I've mounted cabinets and other things to the walls and so far so good. It's been warm too!