Stupid "just installed" electrical sub-panel questions

[remagenman]

Hey folks, I got my power in the 12x16 workshop/shed working and can't find answers to my thoughts here:

I have a 60A breaker in main panel feeding a sub-panel with only a 20A breaker installed currently, only 1 circuit of outlets.

-Does the 20A circuit need a dedicated power switch installed? (I have a GFCI as the 1st outlet in the circuit).

-Does the power to the shed need to be turned off when not in use? Is this code?

-Are 20A outlets necessary/needed? I currently have 15A outlets on 12AWG romex.

Thanks to the habitat store near me I have oodles of different type of outlets to choose from.

 

[American Locomotive]

No need for a switch for the outlets.

You only need a 20A outlet if it is the only outlet on a 20A circuit. Normal 15A outlets are fine if there is more than one. But you might as well install the combo 15/20A outlets. They cost the same, and it will be handy in the odd chance you come across a tool with a 20A plug.

No need to turn power off of everything is to code.

 

[remagenman]

Thanks, answered my questions. Just so that I am correctly tracking:

-no need for switch because subpanel acts as power off if less than 6 breakers used.

-I haven't ran across/used a 20A plug ever. Is the plug with a T or is the amperage marked on tool?

-last one figured that made logical sense.

 

[Norcal]

If it needs a 20A attachment plug then it needs a dedicated circuit, save your money & use 15A receptacles it will be fine, I used 20A receptacles in my shop, but already had them, which is a big difference over spending premium dollars for them that could be used elsewhere.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I used 20A receptacles in the garage just so people would ask, "Can I plug my X into that ?"

 

[American Locomotive]

There is no "premium dollars" involved with 20A outlets in a shop setting. You already want to use commerical grade outlets in a shop anyways, since you will frequently be plugging things in. At that point, there is little to no cost difference.

For a workshop of that size, you're talking about maybe an extra $15 in outlets compared to 15A residential grade.

I've only come across one or two tools with a 20A plug, but the nice thing is I could just plug it in no problem without swapping the plug or cord. It made me glad I broke the bank and spent an extra 40 cents per outlet in the shop.

But ultimately it's up to you. Either outlet type would be fine. I personally prefer the commercial grade stuff because it holds up better and is still dirt cheap.

 

[TRWham]

No need for a switch for the outlets.

You only need a 20A outlet if it is the only outlet on a 20A circuit. Normal 15A outlets are fine if there is more than one. But you might as well install the combo 15/20A outlets. They cost the same, and it will be handy in the odd chance you come across a tool with a 20A plug.

No need to turn power off of everything is to code.

I agree that installing at least a few 20A devices makes sense, but will add to this that a duplex receptacle counts as 2 "contact devices" per NEC (Article 100) and should already satisfy the requirement for more than one 15A receptacle.

 

[Norcal]

There is no "premium dollars" involved with 20A outlets in a shop setting. You already want to use commerical grade outlets in a shop anyways, since you will frequently be plugging things in. At that point, there is little to no cost difference.

For a workshop of that size, you're talking about maybe an extra $15 in outlets compared to 15A residential grade.

I've only come across one or two tools with a 20A plug, but the nice thing is I could just plug it in no problem without swapping the plug or cord. It made me glad I broke the bank and spent an extra 40 cents per outlet in the shop.

But ultimately it's up to you. Either outlet type would be fine. I personally prefer the commercial grade stuff because it holds up better and is still dirt cheap.

You are using a apples & oranges comparison, a honest comparison is between spec grade 15 ampere, and spec grade 20 ampere receptacle, not residential 15A & a spec grade 20A.

 

[American Locomotive]

You are using a apples & oranges comparison, a honest comparison is between spec grade 15 ampere, and spec grade 20 ampere receptacle, not residential 15A & a spec grade 20A.

A box of 10 commercial grade 15A outlets from Homedepot is $19.90. A box of 10 20A commercial grade outlets from Homedepot is $20.48

A box of 10 residential-grade outlets is $5.

A shop of that size would probably have 10 outlets tops, honestly. So we're talking an extra $10 to step up to commercial grade outlets that will last much longer, deal with heavier cords better and be less prone to getting damaged. What's an extra 58 cents to get the 20A version of that commercial outlet for "just-in-case" situations?

If I was building a 300 unit apartment complex with 7,000 outlets then yes, I agree going for 20A commercial outlets would probably be a waste of money. But for a small home shop? An extra $15 is definitely worth it for me.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Thanks, answered my questions. Just so that I am correctly tracking:

-no need for switch because subpanel acts as power off if less than 6 breakers used.

-I haven't ran across/used a 20A plug ever. Is the plug with a T or is the amperage marked on tool?

-last one figured that made logical sense.

What youre calling a switch is actually called a disconnect

Also, did you isolate the neutral bus?

Did you put in 2 grounding electrodes?