Stupid question - axle sockets

[cgv69]

Probably a dumb question but...

I have to replace one of the front wheel hub bearing on my '99 Chevy 4x4 and the main nut is a 36mm. I've noticed a lot of places advertise "Axle Nut sockets" but what I'm curious about, is there some difference between "Axle nut sockets" and standard deep impact sockets?

 

[Fedwrench]

I don't think so. I think it's just a matter of marketing. You take the common axle nut sockets (deep impact sockets), slap them in blow molded case and sell it as a set.

 

[Monkey Milk]

Axle nut sockets are thinner, I have no experience with them but from my understanding they used for axles that don't use high torque therefore they are thinner and cost way less then impact sockets, usually sold as a set.

 

[Packard V8]

Yes, axle nut sockets are fabricated from steel plate and are always labeled "DO NOT USE WITH IMPACT GUN!" Since I only have the size needed for my truck, I didn't realize there are a dozen different axle nut sizes.

FWIW, the farmer method was to put the nuts and retainers on and off with a cold chisel.

jack vines

 

[bobcatdan]

For something like your truck, you use a 36mm deep impact. On say an older truck front axle you would use a 2 1/2" socket made from stamp steel. 30-36mm impacts are pretty much used for axle nut in the auto world.

 

[Fedwrench]

You guys have confused me (which isn't hard to do). When I say axle nut sockets, I'm referring to these:

http://www.tooltopia.com/sk-hand-tool-4007.aspx

or these

http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-2839.aspx

But not these:
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4542.aspx

which are you talking about?

 

[joe_padavano]

Probably a dumb question but...

I have to replace one of the front wheel hub bearing on my '99 Chevy 4x4 and the main nut is a 36mm. I've noticed a lot of places advertise "Axle Nut sockets" but what I'm curious about, is there some difference between "Axle nut sockets" and standard deep impact sockets?

I have a 99 Chevy K3500. I simply use the standard socket from my 3/4" drive set. No problems whatsoever. By the way, the trick to holding the hub is to stick a bar in one of the rotor vent slots and run it up against the caliper bracket before loosening or tightening the nut. I use a 3/8" drive extension - fits perfectly in the rotor.

 

[crewchief888]

Yes, axle nut sockets are fabricated from steel plate and are always labeled "DO NOT USE WITH IMPACT GUN!" Since I only have the size needed for my truck, I didn't realize there are a dozen different axle nut sizes.

FWIW, the farmer method was to put the nuts and retainers on and off with a cold chisel.

jack vines

to clarify, i believe you are talking about jam nut sockets for tapered roller bearing axles.

the OP is refering to sockets for unit bearings & CV shafts on later model trucks.

all the ones i've messed with are 36mm ( 1 7/16")

 

[cgv69]

Thanks for the info and tips guys...

By the way, the trick to holding the hub is to stick a bar in one of the rotor vent slots and run it up against the caliper bracket before loosening or tightening the nut.

Actually another tip that I've read and plan to use (at least to remove the old nut) is to leave the wheel on and the truck still on the ground to break it loose then jack it up, remove the wheel and do the rest of it. Not sure if that would work on all cars but it should work in this case. I might use your trick for the re-installation. Thanks.

 

[Ign]

You guys have confused me (which isn't hard to do). When I say axle nut sockets, I'm referring to these:

http://www.tooltopia.com/sk-hand-tool-4007.aspx

or these

http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-2839.aspx

But not these:
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4542.aspx

which are you talking about?

I would suggest most the confusion could be cleared by saying axle nut sockets vs spindle nut sockets. Your last link there are, IMO, spindle nut sockets. Spindle nuts adjust bearing preload and are thus low-torque. Axle nuts generally hold the whole wheel bearing assy together by threading onto the stub shaft.

But more confusion is introduced when talking about spindle spanner sockets for the old-school setups like Dana 44s where the inner nut is low torque, then a holed washer, then the outer nut (which still threads onto the spindle) is a locknut to keep bearing preload where you put it; thus BOTH thread onto the spindle but one is high torque and one is low torque.

And then there's the issue of what I call steering knuckles being referred to as spindles (ie drop spindle kits) in GM IFS, which drives my crazy. A knuckle is not a spindle.

 

[3baygarage]

On regular passenger trucks, axle nut sockets are simply 1/2" drive deep impact sockets.
When you get into bigger stuff like trailers then you'll see those weird stamped sockets coming out.

 

[3baygarage]

[QUOTE/]And then there's the issue of what I call steering knuckles being referred to as spindles (ie drop spindle kits) in GM IFS, which drives my crazy. A knuckle is not a spindle.[/QUOTE]

You're right, that confuses a lot of young mechanics. A spindle is in the shape of a spindle.

 

[larry_g]

You guys have confused me (which isn't hard to do). When I say axle nut sockets, I'm referring to these:

http://www.tooltopia.com/sk-hand-tool-4007.aspx

or these

http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-2839.aspx

But not these:
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4542.aspx

which are you talking about?

If you notice the first two are for axle nuts and the third link if for bearing adjuster nuts. Different tool for different jobs. The sheet-metal sockets are for setting bearing preload on hubs that are freefloating. The axle nut retain the axle to the hub.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[czgunner]

I bought the "Cornwell" kit because I don't own any sockets that big for the work I do.

 

[Coach James]

When I replaced the wheel hubs on my Grand Prix, I loosened the axle nuts with the car only partly jacked up and the wheel still touching the ground.

My Grand Prix is a 36mm and my Grand Caravan is 32mm, I think.

Coach

 

[Ratchet.]

a lot of fwd cars need to use thin wall sockets for the front drive shaft nuts,as a regular impact socket (or non impact for that matter) wont fit, so Axle sockets are most likely thin wall impacts,


Of course you could just buy a cheap standard socket and grind/turn it down though which is what i did when i was replacing a front wheel bearing on my Alfa romeo and (i was too tight to pay for a thin wall 36mm socket), just bought a dirt cheap non impact one and machined it down

 

[czgunner]

Something maybe not everybody knows...the VW can use a 30mm 12 point. I bought that socket seperately for my set.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Something maybe not everybody knows...the VW can use a 30mm 12 point. I bought that socket seperately for my set.

They also use 24mm, 32mm and 36mm in 12 point. And various other sizes throughout the range.

 

[czgunner]

They also use 24mm, 32mm and 36mm in 12 point. And various other sizes throughout the range.

Haven't seen those yet. Thanks for the info!

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

I did a 2006 VW GTI hub bearing the other day, the bolt was a 27mm.

Something maybe not everybody knows...the VW can use a 30mm 12 point. I bought that socket seperately for my set.

Toyota uses that size to. 30mm 12pt

 

[czgunner]

I did a 2006 VW GTI hub bearing the other day, the bolt was a 27mm.

Toyota uses that size to. 30mm 12pt

Was that a 12 point 27mm?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Toyota uses that size to. 30mm 12pt

And 39mm 12-point on some LandCruisers.

Was that a 12 point 27mm?

The 27mm bolts are 6-point. Passats and Audis also 14mm, 17mm and 19mm hub bolts with female hexes.

 

[NY_treeguy]

2002 Eurovan - Rear and front 32mm 12 pt. 2006 Jetta rear and front - 30mm 12 pt. Have not looked at the new 2013 Jetta Wagon TDI yet.

I used chrome and a breaker bar on all of them, since I do not have any 12 point impacts. Not too hard to break free.

 

[ArmyVW_GuyInTX]

They also use 24mm, 32mm and 36mm in 12 point. And various other sizes throughout the range.

Early VW's also used 46mm & 36mm (6 pt) on utility vehicles i.e. trucks & vans, and then the early fwd's (rabbits, sciroccos & dashers) started with 30mm 6pt, up through a variety of sizes inclu 12 pt and the later 17mm recessed allen.
None of these required a special thin wall or deep socket since there were no excess of thread on the stub axles.

 

[joe_padavano]

Thanks for the info and tips guys...

Actually another tip that I've read and plan to use (at least to remove the old nut) is to leave the wheel on and the truck still on the ground to break it loose then jack it up, remove the wheel and do the rest of it. Not sure if that would work on all cars but it should work in this case. I might use your trick for the re-installation. Thanks.

Yup, I've done it that way also. The problem is when I already have the truck in the air and the wheel off. The other problem is that mine is a dually, so it has the 6" spacers on the front hubs. Reaching down inside that hole requires a long extension, which increases the chances of camming off the nut. By jacking it up and removing the spacer first, it's much easier to get the nut off and torqued back on properly.

 

[Stooge]

i bought this set a yr or 2 ago rather than an axle nut set, havent found a 6pt hub nut they wouldnt fit in, but sunex seems to have a slightly thinner wall than some other impacts, plus the price was right
the 36mm included in the set is the one ive used for many gm trucks and havent had any problems with fitment.
http://sunextools.com/index.cfm?s=detail&subcat=104&item=1623