Sturdy adjustable feet for workbench

[frankd]

I'm planning on building a basic workbench in the garage. The floor is not level so I was planning on adding adjustable leveling feet... the only problem is that everything I'm seeing seems pretty flimsy.
Does anyone have a recommendation for some sturdy adjustable feet?

I can just cut the legs to level the table but then I'll have issues if I move it.

 

[derek_m]

I went with these for my welding table https://www.mcmaster.com/6111k34

 

[frankd]

I went with these for my welding table https://www.mcmaster.com/6111k34

Thanks! I guess I should add that the table is going to be made out of wood. Something that bolts to the side of the leg would be fantastic but I'm not sure if that exists.

 

[DFB]

When I was in the factory the type in my attachment is what we use on all our in house built pipe and angle iron tables.

They were 1/2" x13 thread and can add a nut to lock in place

I have 3 of those tables for workbenches in my garage they are sturdy

McMaster Carr has numerous choices for adjustable threaded levelers in various thread sizing and material contruction.

Some places like Grainger or Resturant supply do too but are ridiculously expensive

Quick google turned up these 5/8" x11 thread #6000 lb rating 2 inch base


https://www.lakesideindustries.net/product_p/1210630-ab20.htm

 

[DFB]

Thanks! I guess I should add that the table is going to be made out of wood. Something that bolts to the side of the leg would be fantastic but I'm not sure if that exists.

You need to fab angle iron bracket

 

[KenB]

See “heavy duty leveling feet” — or better yet “leveling casters” on eBay.

Ken

 

[Affinity Fab]

On steel tables I usually weld a 3/4" nut to the bottom of the leg & then just use a 3/4" bolt as the leveling foot. I love those McMaster style leveling feet like the above link but they get pricey compared to a bolt. You can do the same on a wooden leg by boring a hole in the bottom of it, hammer in a thread insert then use a bolt for the foot in the same manner. https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts

 

[DGersic]

I made some from a large bolt, washer, and a hockey puck.




Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[mikegt4]

I have screwed lag bolts up into the bottom of wooden workbench legs, can't get much cheaper than that. My Dad always did the same on his model train layouts.

 

[HotrodHR]

I like his idea ^^^^ if it's wood...

 

[Hooked]

I use the threaded insert and bolt for my stuff with wooden legs. I like the idea of adding the hockey puck for a larger 'footing'.

 

[frankd]

Some great ideas here. Thanks!

 

[lilredex]

A floating beam will take care of any unevenness and adjust automatically. Where not practical, I use three wheels.

 

[romoman]

It depends on the let that you have

For smaller legs https://www.wwhardware.com/catalog/...velers-base-levelers-and-t-nuts/category/837/ or https://www.wwhardware.com/catalog/...rs-and-components-base-levelers/category/837/

I used these on a big built I made for the shop and they work great. https://www.wwhardware.com/heavy-duty-leg-leveler-sygheavy-m10x75

 

[drivesitfar]

since you are building the bench why not customize the build and cut different size legs to solve the leveling issue? or are you planning on moving the bench around the shop/garage?

 

[DFB]

I have had those problems with wood workbenches/tables many times. A couple of years ago I filled our new barn store with wood display tables, benches, and counters about a dozen pieces in total all built basically using construction grade dimensional lumber.

And sometimes it not always really the floor itself but instead just a little twist or bow especially in the long part of the frame. It will throw off even the most accurate cut and attached legs by just a bit and things wont sit right.

Glued and brad nailed cut shims worked for me

 

[jonshonda]

Drill a hole in the bottom of each leg and install a T-Nut (threaded nut that has spikes to prevent it from rotating in wood). https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts

 

[frankd]

since you are building the bench why not customize the build and cut different size legs to solve the leveling issue? or are you planning on moving the bench around the shop/garage?

I don't really plan on moving it so I could just cut the legs to size...and thought about it. But I do like the flexibility of being able to move it.

 

[atch]

Drill a hole in the bottom of each leg and install a T-Nut (threaded nut that has spikes to prevent it from rotating in wood). https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts

This is pretty much what I'd do, except with this difference:

1. drill an oversized hole up into the wood legs
2. cut 4 (I assume you will have 4 legs) pieces of steel (1/8" or so) the same size as the bottom of the legs
3. drill a "large" hole in the middle and 4 "small" holes near the corners
4. weld a nut over the large hole
5. screw these onto the legs using the small holes
6. screw the feet into the nuts

 

[senlow]

I made some from a large bolt, washer, and a hockey puck.




Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

Hockey pucks make great feet. I've used them on several projects. They are cheap, simple, hold lots of weight. Plus they don't slide around when you don't want them to.

I also buy feet from Gabriel Glide USA LLC. Their products are good quality, inexpensive and made in USA.

DGersic, did you fab those cam over caster mounts, or buy them? Can you provide more info on them?

 

[drivesitfar]

Frank: you could cut to size for the spot you have now and if you decide to move it later you can put in adjustable feet if the difference of the length of your supports isn't more than a couple inches.

if it is more than a few inches some of the ideas that have been mentioned might not work anyway, but there are other ideas I (we) might have so maybe remind us how far off level it is?

good luck