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Suaoki U18 Li-Ion Jump Pack review

General Geoff

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For anyone wanting a compact lithium-ion jump box, I was recently sent this Suaoki U18 to review by a manufacturer representative. Thought I'd put it through its paces to determine if it's worth the asking price of $90, or about $72 after a 20% off coupon available now on amazon.

It comes in this great little case that also houses the charging and jumper cables.

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Reading through the instruction manual, it specifically says that it will provide full power for a car jump for about 30 seconds at a time (after which it will shut off), so you kinda have to plan your procedure before hooking it up to your weak battery before trying to jump it.

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The jump leads are pretty short, but they do form a single solid block that connects to the boost box itself, so you can get the alligator clips (which open surprisingly wide) situated before hooking up the jump box. After that's all set, you just peel back a thick rubber boot on the jump box and plug the boost cable connector into it. The green light on the boost cable connector comes on, which means it recognizes a positive voltage above 1V, and it's providing maximum juice. Then you just get in the car and give it a crank.

I did this test with a deep-cycle Optima AGM battery run down to about 11.8 volts at rest, and it did not have enough oomph to crank over the 5.8l V8 in my truck on its own. I hooked up the Suaoki U18 to it, and it brought up resting voltage to about 16V. I also set up my DMM to record min/max voltage while I got in the truck and cranked. Without the boost box, voltage dropped to ~9 volts

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With the boost box, it kept cranking voltage at 10.94 under full load. It was plenty to get the engine cranking over quickly, and started the engine within a couple seconds.

They advise in the instruction manual to wait a few minutes between crank attempts with this box, as it does get a bit warm after a few seconds of starter cranking. But it does work pretty well. It also comes with a very handy car charger to recharge the unit after getting your car started:

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Aside from that, it will recharge multiple cell phones at a time and also has a flashlight function, though it's not super bright (but will probably run for a day or two between charges if that's all you're using it for). At full charge, the box is rated for 59 W/h, which should be enough to fully charge 6 cell phones.

In summation,it's a great little box to keep in your trunk that doesn't provide amazing power to start a big diesel engine with a completely dead battery, but it should be plenty to assist a weak battery on a cold winter night, without needing to lug around a big, 20 lb JNC660.

The various charging options (between USB-C, an AC wall adapter, and a 12VDC car charger), it should be pretty easy to keep it topped up for use. The manual does recommend not to leave it plugged in and charging for more than 10 hours, so that may be of concern to folks who like to just leave their boost boxes plugged in indefinitely between use. But for its intended role of sitting in the trunk until the need arises, the Suaoki U18 should work great.
 
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General Geoff

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Yeah, the JNC looks like it doesn't have USB-C though, for anyone who has newer smartphones.


I just got back from the junkyard and was able to hook up the Suaoki U18 to a few cars in the boneyard to power on their electrics and test components like power windows/locks, radio head units, speakers, lights, etc. Even cranked over the engine on an old F-150 with the 300 I6 all by itself, no battery in the truck. So far I'm very impressed with this little guy.
 

pbon

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A standard usb to usb-c cable would take care of that. Those are actually the only phone charging cables I have. It’s not like you need faster data to charge. The JNC has a 10A 12V outlet and is 18,000MA rather than 16,000 so it’s a little more powerful. I looked at the cheaper alternatives like the suoaki. The top noco looked good but was more money. These little bricks are getting better — twice the power of the early models. I have jumped my E36M3 and E90M3.
 
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General Geoff

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Yeah the only other thing about the USB-C port is that the Suaoki can also take a charge from USB-C, not just give a charge from it :)

I haven't completely run down the U18 yet so no confirmation on how much juice it will actually produce, but the fact that I've cranked over two engines with it and fully charged a phone and it still has half battery life, bodes well.

And yeah, these latest-generation lithium-ion boost packs really do put out a lot more power than the early ones.
 

Hands001

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No concerns with leaving the lipo battery in hot car for days on end? Lipos seem to loose charge over few months, add the heat, concerned they may have a problem. Anything you can say about it’s ability to stay safe in a hot trunk throughout a summer?

I’ve wanted one for sometime, but seeing them getting rapidly better and keep deciding to wait. Fortunately, knock on wood, I have not needed a jump start.
 
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General Geoff

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No concerns with leaving the lipo battery in hot car for days on end? Lipos seem to loose charge over few months, add the heat, concerned they may have a problem. Anything you can say about it’s ability to stay safe in a hot trunk throughout a summer?

I’ve wanted one for sometime, but seeing them getting rapidly better and keep deciding to wait. Fortunately, knock on wood, I have not needed a jump start.

The Suaoki U18 uses Lithium-Ion, not Lithium-Ion-Polymer. I haven't had the Suaoki long enough to judge overall longevity to temperature extremes but I've had other Li-Ion battery devices last over a year in the trunk of a car living outside between charges, with no ill effects.
 
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Shiftless

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Starting current 600 amps??
Peak current 1200 amps??

What wire gauge are those jumper leads?

That battery looks smaller than a Milwaukee 12 volt battery pack. Would an M12 battery start a V8 engine?

Help me understand the differences here. Thanks!

:dunno:.....:dunno:
 
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rlitman

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Starting current 600 amps??
Peak current 1200 amps??

What wire gauge are those jumper leads?

That battery looks smaller than a Milwaukee 12 volt battery pack. Would an M12 battery start a V8 engine?

Help me understand the differences here. Thanks!

:dunno:.....:dunno:

First off, those current numbers (even on the NoCo) are Chinese marketing BS.

And remember that wire gauge is just as important as wire length in Ohm's law.

As for an M12 battery, these have quite a few more cells inside. Perhaps six M12 batteries in parallel could start your V8, but using cordless batteries like that can be pretty dangerous.
 

Shiftless

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Rlitman Thanks for your reply. So maybe if the wires were 14 ga. and barely long enough to make a hook up, say 3 feet, wouldn’t they go up in smoke or at least melt the insulation if they carried let’s say 200 amps for 10 seconds?

General Geoff said that he cranked over a V8 in a junkyard truck with only this jumper pack. What’s the current flow in a situation like that?
(My amp meter only goes up to 10 so I’m not investigating that question right now) :)
 
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rlitman

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Rlitman Thanks for your reply. So maybe if the wires were 14 ga. and barely long enough to make a hook up, say 3 feet, wouldn’t they go up in smoke or at least melt the insulation if they carried let’s say 200 amps for 10 seconds?...

That's the general idea, though your numbers are off.

They're more like 10 gauge wires, and are WELL under a foot (the full circuit might add up to a foot). Plus, most jump packs restrict you to around 5 seconds of cranking. And yeah, 200A cranking current through these things is actually possible.

...
General Geoff said that he cranked over a V8 in a junkyard truck with only this jumper pack. What’s the current flow in a situation like that?
(My amp meter only goes up to 10 so I’m not investigating that question right now) :)

You need a peak reading clamp meter. The cranking current on the V8 would vary depending on whether it was diesel or gas, and the displacement (among other things such as the temperature). But I could imagine 400A is possible. And you can get that from the larger lithium jump packs. Just not from the small ones that fit in a shirt pocket.
 
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Shiftless

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That's the general idea, though your numbers are off.

They're more like 10 gauge wires, and are WELL under a foot (the full circuit might add up to a foot). Plus, most jump packs restrict you to around 5 seconds of cranking. And yeah, 200A cranking current through these things is actually possible.



You need a peak reading clamp meter. The cranking current on the V8 would vary depending on whether it was diesel or gas, and the displacement (among other things such as the temperature). But I could imagine 400A is possible. And you can get that from the larger lithium jump packs. Just not from the small ones that fit in a shirt pocket.

Thanks again for that.
The only issue that I still wonder about is that with super short leads a guy would have to lay the jumper on top of the car battery and make positive and negative connections right there onto the terminals.

Isn’t it strongly suggested that for safety to make the positive connection first and then put the negative clamp on a chassis ground?

I have seen a lead acid battery after it exploded from ignited hydrogen gas. Pretty scary to say the least! :shocking:
 
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rlitman

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Thanks again for that.
The only issue that I still wonder about is that with super short leads a guy would have to lay the jumper on top of the car battery and make positive and negative connections right there onto the terminals.

Isn’t it strongly suggested that for safety to make the positive connection first and then put the negative clamp on a chassis ground?

I have seen a lead acid battery after it exploded from ignited hydrogen gas. Pretty scary to say the least! :shocking:

Good questions.

Yes, and yes. The suggestion about using chassis ground last, is because with traditional jumper cables there is a chance of some sparking with that connection, and a spark right on top of the battery can ignite hydrogen, whereas putting that spark even a foot away should be sufficiently safe (hydrogen likes to float up).

With modern lithium jump packs, you must place the pack pretty much on top of the battery, and you really only have enough cable length to connect directly to the terminals. However, it's not that dangerous because of the built-in safety features in the cable (or in the pack). Because of the risk of blowing up the lithium battery (which is potentially worse than your hydrogen explosion example) from reverse connections, lithium jump packs do not put 12V on the clamps right away. Instead, they put no voltage at all across the clamps at first (only turning on the juice when the forward battery voltage is sensed, and flashing a warning light if the polarity is reversed), and because of this, they will not spark when connected.

Note here that such chargers will not immediately work on a system where the battery is missing or has zero (or reverse) voltage. However, for those cases, they come with an override button, and I've used my jump pack to crank my generator without a battery installed.
 
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General Geoff

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General Geoff said that he cranked over a V8 in a junkyard truck with only this jumper pack. What’s the current flow in a situation like that?
(My amp meter only goes up to 10 so I’m not investigating that question right now) :)

To be fair, it was a 300ci inline 6, not a V8 :beer:

I do have a DC amp clamp meter, but it's not particularly accurate when reading DC current. To get good, accurate readings I would need a current shunt rated up to 1000 amps, but those things are pricey.
 
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