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Sub panel

Mikf44

Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
19
Location
FL
My house has 150 amp service. All of the spaces are full. I have two outlets in my attached 2 car garage and a single light bulb fixture in the center. The outlets are already occupied by the garage door opener the alarms system and the sprinkler system.

My plan is to put a 60 amp breaker where the water heater breaker (30amp) is now to feed the sub. Then run a 20 amp for 3-5 florescent fixtures and about 8 recessed lights. a 20 amp for the compressor outlet. A 20 amp for 3 sets of outlets around the bench and another 20 amp for 2 sets of outlets for wood working tools. (table saw, miter saw, planer). Also 1 more breaker for a fridge and 1 for the water heater.

Dose all of this sound right?

Thanks
 
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daveroy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
735
Location
Omaha NE
How are you powering your water heater?

Other than that.. can't help you, I'm clueless! :-(
 
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Mikf44

Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
19
Location
FL
My plan is to put a 30 amp in the sub and hook the water heater to that.
 

DeadSock

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Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
161
Location
Sterling, AK
so ...

"20 amp for 3-5 florescent fixtures and about 8 recessed lights"
"20 amp for the compressor outlet"
"20 amp for 3 sets of outlets around the bench"
"another 20 amp for 2 sets of outlets for wood working tools"
"1 more breaker for a fridge" (20 amp)
"1 for the water heater" (30 amp)

all that from a sub-panel fed via a 60 amp breaker?

Me, I'd upgrade the house to a 200 amp service (or more if possible) and swap in a new (40 or more) panel.
 
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Mikf44

Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
19
Location
FL
I would like to but that is out side my skill level.

I was looking at the lights and 20 amps seems like over kill for them and they can go on a 15.

The fridge could go on a 15 amp also

Also I won't be running everything at once.
 

Aceman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
2,513
Location
Eastern Oregon
so ...

"20 amp for 3-5 florescent fixtures and about 8 recessed lights"
"20 amp for the compressor outlet"
"20 amp for 3 sets of outlets around the bench"
"another 20 amp for 2 sets of outlets for wood working tools"
"1 more breaker for a fridge" (20 amp)
"1 for the water heater" (30 amp)

all that from a sub-panel fed via a 60 amp breaker?

Me, I'd upgrade the house to a 200 amp service (or more if possible) and swap in a new (40 or more) panel.

He could do it with a balanced panel but it'd be a little tight, that water heater is the load killer. If that 20 amp circuit for the compressor is 240v, then no way.

For the simple fact that #2 AL SER is a common supply house item and you can breaker it at 80 amps, that's what I'd most likely run.

I don't necessarily think he needs to upgrade his service either just because he's adding a fridge and compressor plus a few lights. That's peanuts really. No way to tell without a load calc though....
 
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mrb

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Messages
3,734
leave the water heater in the main and relocate two other branch circuits (not lighting) to the subpanel. I say not lighting to help with flickering when the compressor starts.
 
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Mikf44

Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
19
Location
FL
The compressor is 110v.

There are already 4 tandem breakers in it.

Everything in the garage minus a fridge and the can lights I have been running off a 20 amp circuit.

I was at home depot today and they only had 100 amp panels and larger. I think I will get the 100 amp but just feed it with a lower amp breaker.
I saw they had 70 amp breakers. Would that be better?

Thanks for everyone's input
 

dougmac

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Messages
253
A 150 amp panel with a sub may be enough to get the job done. I would do a load calculation first.

Many loads you don't calculate at 100% because you would never have them all on at once. Electric heat is a big one though because you have to calculate it at 100%.

Here is a site that has a residential load calculator that might help you out.

http://www.zenfixit.com/load_calculations.shtml
 

dipper

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
759
Location
Rochester, NY
the real question remains to be asked.
Is the garage attached?

If the garage is detached, the code limits the number of feeds to 2 our to
detached buildings. More than that and you need a subpanel.

If the garage is attached, adding a sub doesn't sound like a problem, just rearrange
your circuits to keep the loads balanced sounds like a good idea.
 
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