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Subpanel brand reccomendations

Cobertible01

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Jan 11, 2015
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Minnesota
I will be adding a subpanel from a GE brand 200 amp panel and was wondering if there was a certain brand subpanel that may be better than another? I.E price per breaker or features that one brand has over another. I am aware that I will still need a GE brand main feed breaker to the subpanel. Just was curious if there was better panels or if it's personal preference. The sub will be 100 amp if it makes any difference. Thanks All!!
 
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kd3pc

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it usually comes down to what you have used and what has worked, tempered by what you do for a living.

As an electrician, I prefer Square D, as they have held up very well in the work I have done over the past 40 years. As were they when my Dad started back in the 50's.

Others like another brand.

All I would suggest that you install it correctly and most any box store panel will likely work well. Breakers are expensive and specific to a brand and often a particular panel, especially GFCI, Arc fault and unique applications
 

David Paul

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Western New Jersey
Welcome Cobert,
I just added a Square D 120 amp Homeline sub panel to my GE main panel. Went with the Square D as I have only heard good things about them. Another plus is that the breakers are readily available at both HD and Lowes at very reasonable prices. Ie less then $4 for single pole 15 or 20amp breaker. Good for those Sunday projects when the supply house is closed.
 
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Aceman

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Eastern Oregon
I will be adding a subpanel from a GE brand 200 amp panel and was wondering if there was a certain brand subpanel that may be better than another? I.E price per breaker or features that one brand has over another. I am aware that I will still need a GE brand main feed breaker to the subpanel. Just was curious if there was better panels or if it's personal preference. The sub will be 100 amp if it makes any difference. Thanks All!!

If I had a GE main panel, I would install a GE subpanel. Keep the breakers the same.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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it usually comes down to what you have used and what has worked, tempered by what you do for a living.

As an electrician, I prefer Square D, as they have held up very well in the work I have done over the past 40 years. As were they when my Dad started back in the 50's.

Others like another brand.

All I would suggest that you install it correctly and most any box store panel will likely work well. Breakers are expensive and specific to a brand and often a particular panel, especially GFCI, Arc fault and unique applications

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

zmaxmotorsports

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How big is the existing ge panel as far as spaces go,will the sub panel be located next to iy or in a remote location?
If the existing panel only has between 20-30 spaces for breakers Id just replace it with a larger sq d homeline panel.;)
 
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Cobertible01

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Minnesota
The subpanel will be located in the attatched garage roughly 65-70' from the main panel. Real estate is running low in the main panel and would like a sub for extra outlets, welder, heater, lift in the future along with a hot tub out back of the house.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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That makes sense to put it out there closer to where the load is going to be in that case then.
How hard is it going to be to feed the sub panel in the garage?;)
 
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Cobertible01

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Minnesota
It shouldn't be too bad. My main panel is on the other side of the house in the basement. Luckily the basement is unfinished and have full access throughout the entire length of the house
 

alfredeneuman

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Cutler-Hammer type CH (not BR) > Square D type QO > Siemens QP, Cu bussed > Square D Homeline > all others in my opinion.
 
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Norcal

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If I had a GE main panel, I would install a GE subpanel. Keep the breakers the same.

I also agree, If you have a GE (Government Electric) panel, I would stay the same, unless it was a obsolete make like Zinsco/ Sylvania, FPE, (Federal Pacific Electric), ITE Pushmatic, SQ D Trilliant, Cutler-Hammer, or SQ D, XO, it makes sense to keep it the same, and be generous with the size, 12-16 space is nice, a 8 space panel belongs in the trash, not a shop.
 

barnjunkie

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I used the Eaton Cutler hammer type Ch in my barn. If you have an area where condensation will sometimes form, I personally like the copper busbar panels more. They are all designed to safely break an overload, but any kind of corrosive environment is worse on the aluminum stuff.
That's why it is cheaper, but not necessarily better.
 

Norcal

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I used the Eaton Cutler hammer type Ch in my barn. If you have an area where condensation will sometimes form, I personally like the copper busbar panels more. They are all designed to safely break an overload, but any kind of corrosive environment is worse on the aluminum stuff.
That's why it is cheaper, but not necessarily better.

The type CH is the best load center out there anymore, there are those who drink the SQ D Kool Aide, but SQ D went cheap 30 years ago. GE Powermark Gold is a copper bussed panel, I do not care for GE much, but they aren't Zinsco. :D Just to add, one of the panels in my own shop is GE, but all of them were used because they were cheap so I am not practicing what I preach, all but one use bolt-on breakers, though.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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The type CH is the best load center out there anymore, there are those who drink the SQ D Kool Aide, but SQ D went cheap 30 years ago. GE Powermark Gold is a copper bussed panel, I do not care for GE much, but they aren't Zinsco. :D Just to add, one of the panels in my own shop is GE, but all of them were used because they were cheap so I am not practicing what I preach, all but one use bolt-on breakers, though.

Im drinking the kool aid right now,but its orange!:lol:I tried a couple of ge panels back when I opened my shop in 96 since I had an account at a ge dealer,I went back to using sq d immediately if not sooner.;)
My second choice for residential stuff would be ch if somebody says they have to have it.
I wouldn't use siemens in a dog house if they gave it to me,I didn't like it back when I had to use it and I sure as hell don't like it now.:lol:
 
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zmaxmotorsports

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What don't you like about Siemens? Seems that is all anyone installed around here.

I installed siemens stuff a long,long time ago when I was still shaking houses.They just seemed cheaply built to me back in the day.
Everybody has their favorites they like to use I guess.
I like Sq D panels. Qo for commercial/Homeline for residential
:)
 

wildstyle

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Ya every house I have had including this one used a Sq D panel. I used a Siemens panel in my shop as that is what the local supply house carries. Difference I found (and I am just a homeowner) is that the Sq D breakers seem to attach a lot more firmly than the Siemens panels. But they seem ok once the panel cover is on.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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Ya every house I have had including this one used a Sq D panel. I used a Siemens panel in my shop as that is what the local supply house carries. Difference I found (and I am just a homeowner) is that the Sq D breakers seem to attach a lot more firmly than the Siemens panels. But they seem ok once the panel cover is on.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

MN4x4

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Minnesnowta
Another vote for Square D QO. They are, to me, the best value - i .e. the best combination of quality AND performance AND availability AND price.
 
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Cobertible01

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Jan 11, 2015
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Minnesota
Do you guys think I'll be okay running 2-2-2-4 SER? I understand that its max current is 90, so I would install a 90a breaker at the main. Or should I upsize to take the full 100 amp capacity? Keep in mind my run will be approximately 65-70' indoor to the sub panel in the attatched garage. I will be powering a hot tub full time and in the future a lift occasionally along with a welder and a few outlets with a small air compressor. Thanks for all the help and responses!
 

lucky1

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Oct 27, 2006
Messages
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I'm glad I read this thread. Makes me feel better about the equipment I purchased. My main panel is a 200 amp Eaton CH. My sub is a Square D QO. When I went to buy the breakers for my garage subpanel, I was wondering why the CH and QO double pole breakers were about $10 more than the other brands. Based on what is written in the posts, they are better quality.
 

ard

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Sierra Foothills... California
Do you guys think I'll be okay running 2-2-2-4 SER? I understand that its max current is 90, so I would install a 90a breaker at the main. Or should I upsize to take the full 100 amp capacity? Keep in mind my run will be approximately 65-70' indoor to the sub panel in the attatched garage. I will be powering a hot tub full time and in the future a lift occasionally along with a welder and a few outlets with a small air compressor. Thanks for all the help and responses!

Personally I always upsize. The cost for #1 versus #2 for 70 feet is no very much.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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I used the Eaton Cutler hammer type Ch in my barn. If you have an area where condensation will sometimes form, I personally like the copper busbar panels more. They are all designed to safely break an overload, but any kind of corrosive environment is worse on the aluminum stuff.
That's why it is cheaper, but not necessarily better.

The last time I left a copper penny laying in my barn it turned green ,Ive got a lot of of aluminum Kawasaki motors scattered around out there that hold up much better.:lol:
Ive seen many copper plated buss bars in newer panels with sections of them them turned a dull black ,these were in climate controlled utilitie rooms in houses.;)
 

alfredeneuman

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Fullerton, CA
Unlike the pennies, Copper busbars (aluminum busbars as well), have a thin tin plating on a few microns thick on their surfaces.

It improves the oxidation resistance.
 

Norcal

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The copper will still oxidize;)

Coppers oxide is conductive, aluminum is not.
Edit Aceman beat me to the punch.


The OP has a GE panel & the sub should be the same, if he had a Eaton CH,or BR, Siemens, HOMOLINE, or QO, my recommendation would the same, match the existing.
 
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