Subpanel for oven & kettle?

[mpire]

I'm looking at a house and the kitchen is straight out of the 80s and the cabinets need to be replaced becuase its just sad.

If I move the oven, then I will need to extend the wiring. I was thinking of putting in a small subpanel for the splice.

I was thinking of adding a small 15 amp breaker and a 50 amp breaker in the panel for running an electric kettle in addition to the oven.

I put in the 240v 15amp breaker to run an electric kettle in the last remodel and its been so great that we don't want to go back to ultra slow 120v kettles.

Its going to be pretty expensive to run new #6 wire all the way to the kitchen.

Do you think this is even legal?

What about dangerous?

 

[mike93lx]

Subpanel are legal, yes. Needs to be accessible and mounted at the correct height. Where would the sub end up?

Is the feeder to the oven a 4 wire? It needs to be for the new install

You are likely also going to need other wiring as new kitchens have requirements for dedicated circuits on certain appliances

 

[sparky 1971]

Since it's an 80's house, it more than likely that the existing range only has a three wire feed since that was the norm until the adoption of the 1996 NEC. If it is, you're SOL for the sub panel and for extending the wiring for the range in a code compliant way since both are supposed to be four wire.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

post some pics of the existing wiring before we dive down into subpanels...

 

[Metal-Marc]

Post pics of the 240V kettle.

 

[dave*99]

If you are referring to an electric tea kettle used outside the USA (typically 220V) ..... Then I understand your statement about fast heating.

Since you are remodeling the kitchen you have other options.
An induction stove/range will boil water very fast.
And there are instant hot water dispensers you can mount at the sink.

 

[mpire]

The kettle I have is a regular British kettle I guess. Shipping was as much as the cost of the kettle.

Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Russell-Hobbs-26080-Hourglass-Cordless/dp/B08L6PT7RX

When I had no walls in the condo kitchen during the renovation 2 years ago, I ran 12/3 to the breaker box and put in an outlet for the kettle. Then I cut off the kettle plug and replaced it with the American equivalent and used a Leviton 16292-W 15 Amp, 125/250 Volt outlet with its own dedicated 15am 250v breaker in the breaker box.

It really only took an hour to do everything (with no walls) and I can't tell you how much I love having a 3000w kettle. I can boil water for coffee faster than I can pull out the coffee filter and put 2 scoops of coffee in it. Its like 20 seconds.

Its so fast that when I need boiling water, I put it in the kettle first then pour it in the pot after its boiling.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm looking at a house and the kitchen is straight out of the 80s and the cabinets need to be replaced because its just sad.

If I move the oven, then I will need to extend the wiring. I was thinking of putting in a small subpanel for the splice.

I did the same on a kitchen remodel over 25 years ago. Re-used the old oven cable. Added all counter top circuits and refrigerator off that sub. New kitchen had a gas stove so we knew it was not going to overload the feed.

 

[dave*99]

I did the same on a kitchen remodel over 25 years ago. Re-used the old oven cable. Added all counter top circuits and refrigerator off that sub. New kitchen had a gas stove so we knew it was not going to overload the feed.

Since it's an 80's house, it more than likely that the existing range only has a three wire feed since that was the norm until the adoption of the 1996 NEC. If it is, you're SOL for the sub panel and for extending the wiring for the range in a code compliant way since both are supposed to be four wire.

What was legit 25 years ago is not legit today.

 

[dave*99]

When I had no walls in the condo kitchen during the renovation 2 years ago, I ran 12/3 to the breaker box and put in an outlet for the kettle. Then I cut off the kettle plug and replaced it with the American equivalent and used a Leviton 16292-W 15 Amp, 125/250 Volt outlet with its own dedicated 15am 250v breaker in the breaker box.

Depending upon code cycle etc, you may be required to use a tamper resistant receptacle and GFCI.

 

[sparky 1971]

What was legit 25 years ago is not legit today.

That would be why I put SOL. **** Outa Luck.

 

[dave*99]

That would be why I put SOL. **** Outa Luck.

Agreed, my issue was with the potentially bad advice that came after your good advice.

 

[dave*99]

delete

 

[dave*99]

Hello. We are remodeling our kitchen and the contractor has indicated placing a subpanel in the hallway near the kitchen. We are planning to upgrade our service panel before the remodel to 200 Amps with sufficient slots to add all required breakers to support the remodel. Is a sub panel required by code?

My concern is that an interior subpanel is an eyesore, and AFGI and CFGI breakers can hum or buzz; the location is near our bedroom. So, I do not want to pay for something we will be unhappy with if it makes sounds that affect our sleep.

Thanks in advance,

You should start a new thread on your question.

A sub panel is not required by code. It's possible the kitchen will require a number of new circuits and there is a cost savings in terms of wire, materials and labor by using a sub panel. Only a single home run to the main panel would be needed if there is a sub.
Your contractor should be able to provide a price to wire the space with only a main panel.

 

[mm08822]

You should start a new thread on your question.

A sub panel is not required by code. It's possible the kitchen will require a number of new circuits and there is a cost savings in terms of wire, materials and labor by using a sub panel. Only a single home run to the main panel would be needed if there is a sub.
Your contractor should be able to provide a price to wire the space with only a main panel.

I saw a very similar situation at a customer's home who had his kitchen remodeled by a GC. GC required his subs.

Electrician replaced main panel in garage for more circuit space. Ran several circuits through basement to reach kitchen. New panel almost full!
Customer plans to finish basement next year. A sub panel in the basement would have added value to both projects and would have eliminated need for a larger main panel.

Per code, all correct. Best way to spend $$, nope!!