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Subpanel Question

LipschitzWrath

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Long time lurker, need some help. Just bought a new house and want to add a subpanel in the garage. I've been scouring the internet but can't find a lot of help because I feel like I've got some interesting design challenges.

Let's get the basics out of the way first. 200A main panel (at least a dozen breaker slots still open) in house in the finished basement. However, there is what I would describe as a service "crawlspace" or "raceway" (roughly 18" x 18") that runs from the main panel to the unfinished mechanical room in the basement of the house. This unfinished mechanical room shares a wall with the finished garage. I think there's a pretty good chance I can use this path to run a feeder to a subpanel with little/no drywall work.

Side note, this is the path that the previous owner used to run a 20A 240V plug to the garage (using 10/3 wire no less?). I do not believe this wiring installation meets code as he has exposed romex (or is it a cable of some kind?) in the garage feeding into the bottom of the 20A plug box.

Estimated distance from main box to where I'd put the surface mount sub is around 50'.

Anyways, I guess the first issue I need to address is that I am torn between a 60A or 100A service to the garage. I eventually have plans to run a Millermatic 211, which I've heard will eat 40A all by itself. I've then got some other big stuff I want to feed, like a 30A plug out to my camper and a 220V air compressor. I'd also like to add a couple 20A branch circuits for additional outlets in the garage, which is currently fed by a single 15A branch powering 4 outlets (5 counting the GDO). All this is making me question if a 60A sub would be limiting my options in the future. This has somewhat narrowed my research to seeing what it would take to do a 100A sub.

Assuming for a moment that I go 100A (open to discussion on that), I believe from my NEC research I have a couple options:

1.) #3 CU THHN in conduit.
2.) #1 AL THHN in conduit.
3.) #2 (or would it be #1?) CU cable (SER?), no conduit.
4.) #1/0 AL cable (SER?), no conduit.

Sound correct? Cheapest option turns out to be 4. Not set on the cheapest path, more worried about actually getting this done.

Now, for my design challenges. I don't think that I can get conduit to my main panel. There is that crawlspace but I'm thinking that it is going to be nigh impossible to for me to get into that space and run conduit into the top of the main box in such a small space. That pretty much eliminates options 1 & 2.

Option 3's main downside is cost. I think when I checked, that stuff was topping $6/ft. Beyond that, I hear it's hard to find and will be moderately difficult to work with.

Option 4 turns out to be the cheapest, but workability scares me. Wouldn't I be wrestling a python with 1/0, especially when terminating in the sub? It also appears there will at least need to be a short run of conduit from where it comes through the wall into the garage then turn 90 degrees and into the bottom of the surface mount sub. I'm worried about running such big cable through conduit, especially the bends. I could TRY to come in through the rear of the box, but I think access will be tight and I'd still be left with fighting the monster cable inside the sub. Same wrestling match would take place in the main panel to feed.

So, you can see my main conundrum is what type of wire to feed the sub with. Dropping down to 60A get's me more in the 6/3 range (cheaper/easier), but I mentioned I'm concerned about future expandability.

I've also briefly pondered switching wire types mid-run in a junction box, but then I wonder how you would splice 1/0 AL with #3 CU, for example. I can't seem to come up with a good solution.

What thoughts do you guys have?
 
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nut_buster2017

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Different jurisdictions will allow different methods and materials of installation.
So in general terms, we have what is commonly referred to as Teck cable.
It has a water proof layer over top of an armoured sheath, much like BX cable.
I would look at something like this, in the appropriate wire gauge for your jurisdiction.
 

sberry

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2 2 2 4 alum cable, good for 90A. The 211 welder is a 25A in machine. You don't need to add the breakers used (the welder can run on circuit to 50) but the actual load. You could simply stop welding if the compressor kicked on but I have wired a couple dozen garages over the years and never,,,, had one call back when being fed from a 60. I often use the number 2 wire but 60A just because its cheaper and on the outside chance it ever became an issue could be changed.
I just did a sub in a house this week this way. Fed a 100 panel.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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Different jurisdictions will allow different methods and materials of installation.
So in general terms, we have what is commonly referred to as Teck cable.
It has a water proof layer over top of an armoured sheath, much like BX cable.
I would look at something like this, in the appropriate wire gauge for your jurisdiction.

Interesting idea. I have a call in to the city inspector to see what they will/won't allow in a situation such as mine.

EDIT: Did a quick google search. In the few places where I could find prices, looks like 2AWG Teck cable runs in excess of $11/ft.

2 2 2 4 alum cable, good for 90A. The 211 welder is a 25A in machine. You don't need to add the breakers used (the welder can run on circuit to 50) but the actual load. You could simply stop welding if the compressor kicked on but I have wired a couple dozen garages over the years and never,,,, had one call back when being fed from a 60. I often use the number 2 wire but 60A just because its cheaper and on the outside chance it ever became an issue could be changed.
I just did a sub in a house this week this way. Fed a 100 panel.

Isn't 2-2-2-4 aluminum good for 90A in the 75*C column in the NEC? I thought that the code changes in the 2008 code made it so SER cable must follow the ampacities in the 60*C column (at least when using it to feed a subpanel)?

I probably just need to dump the 100A idea and run a 60A. However, at this point, I'm almost just curious how one would solve this problem if they were faced with it.
 
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pattenp

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Interesting idea. I have a call in to the city inspector to see what they will/won't allow in a situation such as mine.

EDIT: Did a quick google search. In the few places where I could find prices, looks like 2AWG Teck cable runs in excess of $11/ft.



Isn't 2-2-2-4 aluminum good for 90A in the 75*C column in the NEC? I thought that the code changes in the 2008 code made it so SER cable must follow the ampacities in the 60*C column (at least when using it to feed a subpanel)?

I probably just need to dump the 100A idea and run a 60A. However, at this point, I'm almost just curious how one would solve this problem if they were faced with it.

Nope. 60*C is only required if the SER is buried within insulation, otherwise it's 75*C. See NEC 338.10 (B) (4)(a).

Even at 60*C, #2 Al SER is 75A, so you can use a 80A breaker since there is no 75A breaker.




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LipschitzWrath

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Nope. 60*C is only required if the SER is buried within insulation, otherwise it's 75*C. See NEC 338.10 (B) (4)(a).

Even at 60*C, #2 Al SER is 75A, so you can use a 80A breaker since there is no 75A breaker.

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Interesting, thanks for the info. I think the bordering wall I would come through into the garage is insulated, so I might still be on the hook for 60*C. Unless i punch through BELOW the insulation? Found some other websites that say that it seems like it would be up to the inspector on what constitutes being "installed in insulation" when you are making short runs *through* insulation.

Food for thought, for sure. If the AHJ didn't make a fuss about it, that means you could use #3 SE for copper or #1 SE for aluminum and get the full 100A rating.

Thanks for the heads up.

Any other thoughts on going single conductor in conduit or using a cable?

ETA: Found a site touting an "exception" that says even installed in insulation, you can use the higher ampacity for a distance of 10 ft or 10% of the total circuit length, whichever is less. If my estimate of 50' is correct, I take this to mean I could still use the 75*C ampacity for SE cable installed in insulation, so long as the portion in insulation is 5' or less. Is that correct? No code reference was given on the site I found.
 
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pattenp

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ETA: Found a site touting an "exception" that says even installed in insulation, you can use the higher ampacity for a distance of 10 ft or 10% of the total circuit length, whichever is less. If my estimate of 50' is correct, I take this to mean I could still use the 75*C ampacity for SE cable installed in insulation, so long as the portion in insulation is 5' or less. Is that correct? No code reference was given on the site I found.

That is correct. I can't remember the NEC section right off the top of my head.

Edit: NEC 310.15(A)(2) Exception.



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nut_buster2017

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I was working with a Master Electrician on an explosion proof low voltage circuit. Nothing in the code here was specific enough, but there was a clause that said if the installation was intrinsically safe, it will pass.

You may look for something along those lines.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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That is correct. I can't remember the NEC section right off the top of my head.

Edit: NEC 310.15(A)(2) Exception.



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Thanks for that.

Want to hear something disturbing? City inspector just called me back. Did some discussion, he was helpful for the most part. Now for the disturbing part. He told me that if I use SER cable it must be run in conduit and it must use the 60*C column for ampacity, even if not on insulation.

Ummm, what? I questioned him on it and he was adamant. I respectfully requested that he verify it and he said he would, but he said he was pretty sure. I confirmed our jurisdiction uses 2014 NEC.

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pattenp

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Thanks for that.

Want to hear something disturbing? City inspector just called me back. Did some discussion, he was helpful for the most part. Now for the disturbing part. He told me that if I use SER cable it must be run in conduit and it must use the 60*C column for ampacity, even if not on insulation.

Ummm, what? I questioned him on it and he was adamant. I respectfully requested that he verify it and he said he would, but he said he was pretty sure. I confirmed our jurisdiction uses 2014 NEC.

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The only way that would be the case is if your locality adopted an amended code different than the NEC. If they adopted the 2014 NEC as is without amendments then he is wrong.

SER install methods are the same as NM-b. Again see NEC 338.10(B)(4)


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LipschitzWrath

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The only way that would be the case is if your locality adopted an amended code different than the NEC. If they adopted the 2014 NEC as is without amendments then he is wrong.

SER install methods are the same as NM-b. Again see NEC 338.10(B)(4)


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Pure NEC 2014. No amendments.

He called back. Admitted he was wrong. Said it was fine in without conduit and 75*C was okay too. Pretty nice guy. Offered to come and check it out whenever I wanted instead of waiting till the end. Also said to call him anytime with questions.

So it sounds like #3 copper for 100A or #6 for 60A. Aluminum would be #1 and #4 respectively. Am I correct?

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pattenp

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The sizes in SER will be:

Al 4-4-4-6 for 60A (65A can OCP at 70A)
Al 1-1-1-3 for 100A
Cu 6-6-6-6 for 60A (65A can OCP at 70A)
Cu 3-3-3-5 for 100A




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ard

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Pure NEC 2014. No amendments.

He called back. Admitted he was wrong. Said it was fine in without conduit and 75*C was okay too. Pretty nice guy. Offered to come and check it out whenever I wanted instead of waiting till the end. Also said to call him anytime with questions.


Nice. We all make mistakes, some inspectors are playing some ego game. This guy sounds responsive, so kudos
 
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LipschitzWrath

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Okay, I think I'm starting to settle on a 60A sub. Should that be enough to serve a Millermatic 211, 220v air compressor, 30A RV hookup (110V), and some misc 20A circuits for feeding power tools. The welder/air compressor plug(s) would be 50A for anything I might want to plug in.

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sberry

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The 2 alum is about 1/2 the cost, maybe less than 6 copper, almost no V drop out past 100 ft at 60. I bought some the other day, 1.30 or so a foot.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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The 2 alum is about 1/2 the cost, almost no V drop out past 100 ft at 60.
1/2 the cost of what? I need 4 AL for 60A or 1 AL for 100A. Where does 2 AL fit in?

Let's talk workability. Would 6 Cu be easier or harder to work with than 4 AL?

What about 3 Cu vs 1 AL?

Conventional wisdom suggests that the smaller wire would be be easier but then I hear people say that aluminum is a little more flexible than copper. I'm mainly concerned with terminating in the main and sub panels.

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pattenp

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You need to figure what will be the max amp draw at one time to know if 60A is enough. Add up the actual amp draw of the things that may be running at once.
 

sberry

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2 2 2 4 is super common and stocked at all the box stores. It's 1/2 the cost of 6 copper. It's a little more difficult but fits in a 60. You do need a lug adapter for ground bar.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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I think I might just go copper. I found a pretty cheap source. The 3-3-3-5 Copper is only about a dollar more per foot than the 6-6-6-6 copper, so I might just go with the 100A service and be done with it.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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#3 copper SER is good for 100A @ 75*C.

Thanks for affirming my belief. When ARD questioned me, it made me doubt myself.

I looked down in the mechanical room last night and the good news is that this cable wouldn't go anywhere near insulation. There is a hole drilled there where the 10-3 cable the dude ran for a 20A 240V receptable in the garage goes through the wall. Based on where the sub panel would be mounted in the garage, I'm not sure I could get to the back of the panel through the wall. If I went through the wall, I'd come out about 3' below the bottom of the sub.

Now my question is, I need to use conduit for any of the cable that will be exposed inside the garage, right? My research is giving me conflicting answers but am I allowed to run SER in conduit for this short 3' section?

If not, what options do I have.

If I am allowed, what size conduit would you recommend? My research indicates that 3-3-3-5 SER has an OD of around 0.91 inches - would 1-1/4" conduit be sufficient?
 

wyliesdiesels

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Interesting idea. I have a call in to the city inspector to see what they will/won't allow in a situation such as mine.

EDIT: Did a quick google search. In the few places where I could find prices, looks like 2AWG Teck cable runs in excess of $11/ft.



Isn't 2-2-2-4 aluminum good for 90A in the 75*C column in the NEC? I thought that the code changes in the 2008 code made it so SER cable must follow the ampacities in the 60*C column (at least when using it to feed a subpanel)?

I probably just need to dump the 100A idea and run a 60A. However, at this point, I'm almost just curious how one would solve this problem if they were faced with it.

TECK cable is not something that is commonly used in the US thats why prices are high.

TECK cable is more common in Canada
 
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LipschitzWrath

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So can a short run of SER cable be ran in conduit if it is for protection purposes only?

If it can, what size would be recommended?

If not, what options do I have?
 

pattenp

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I tried to answer earlier but GJ seemed to be down. Anyway, SER can be placed in conduit and since you are just doing a short sleeve just use a piece sized so the SER can fit easily through it. 1-1/4" conduit will work. If using a LB you will be better off using 2".
 
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LipschitzWrath

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I tried to answer earlier but GJ seemed to be down. Anyway, SER can be placed in conduit and since you are just doing a short sleeve just use a piece sized so the SER can fit easily through it. 1-1/4" conduit will work.
I have a 90 degree turn as soon as it exits the wall. I would think I would want to use an LB to keep the wiring cleanest. Does that affect your recommendation? Turning 90 degrees with 3-3-3-5 in an 1-1/4" LB should be doable?

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pattenp

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Yikes 2" is pretty big. If that's what it takes though, I guess that's a small price to pay.

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You can get by with 1.5". Just go the HD or Lowes and look at the LB's and decide what looks like the easiest for you to use. I just think it'd be a bear to bend the #3 SER in a 1.25" LB. I just know the 2" will work easily.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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You can get by with 1.5". Just go the HD or Lowes and look at the LB's and decide what looks like the easiest for you to use. I just think it'd be a bear to bend the #3 SER in a 1.25" LB. I just know the 2" will work easily.
Probably need to get the cable in first and see what is realistic for a bend. I saw some other threads mentioning a "bending violation" - I have exactly zero clue how that works from a code perspective. 1.5 would be better than 2, for sure.

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pattenp

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Bend radius is no less than 8 times the conductor diameter. #3 Cu THHN or XHHW that's in SER is about .346", so bend radius is no less than 2-3/4". I wouldn't get too hung up on that. But that's one reason I think 2" LB is a better choice.
 
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LipschitzWrath

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Bend radius is no more than 8 times the conductor diameter. #3 Cu THHN or XHHW that's in SER is about .346", so bend radius is no more than 2-3/4". I wouldn't get too hung up on that. But that's one reason I think 2" LB is a better choice.
Noted. Thank you. Might just be better off to go big and not worry about it. That's kinda how I wound up on the 3-3-3-5 lol

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Radix2

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If you are worried about messing with conduit, you could build out a little chase with 2x4 s and mount your sub to that, then your panel is flush and the wire is protected with no conduit. You could also just use some boards to make a cover. The req. is to protect the wire if it is in a vulnerable place, conduit is one way.
 
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