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Subpanel / Wire Routing Questions

snorky18

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We just moved in a month ago. We’re out in the county in rural Alabama. The only permit required to build this house 5 years ago was septic. So no building inspectors, codes, etc. That being said, I’m planning on doing everything to NEC standards. The closest town is still under 2002 NEC, so that’s what I’m planning to use.

We currently have a 200 Amp service to the house. 40 space panel. It’s full, and one double tapped breaker (some will say it’s common, and it may be, but if it’s not a Square D breaker intended for that purpose, I don’t like it). The electrician who wired our house acted like wire was free, and taking the time to plan your circuits out was unnecessary. Whole house is #12NM or larger too; no 15 amp circuits.

I’m going to put a 100 Amp 20 Space subpanel in my garage. The hot water heater (located in the garage) will be powered from the 100 Amp Subpanel in the garage to allow space in the main panel for the new 100A breaker to feed the subpanel. I’m also going to relocate 1 circuit (the garage receptacles) to be powered from the subpanel rather than the main panel, and this will get rid of the double tap in the main. Right now the only other circuit I’m adding is for my 240 Volt 15 Amp Compressor. I wrote out a wish list of everything I think I even might ever imagine I would want to power off this subpanel, and came up with ~14 poles/spaces used total.

I’m well aware of the debate over using feeder tables for subpanels, etc. I’d rather just spend more time in the garage, less time arguing / worrying, a few extra $, and have the bigger wire anyway, so I sized using table 310.16, 60 degree column. So I decided on 1/0 SER (3 conductors with ground), which can be had locally for ~$1.50/foot. Planning on putting alumanox on all the exposed connections.

I’m going to route the SER down from the main panel into the “crawl” space (~7’ of headroom), over to the garage, and backup through the floor, into the stud bay where I’m going to install the panel.


Questions:
1) Does SER need conduit to protect it where it runs through 2x4 framing, such as where it comes up through the floor into the stud bay? Or is it just like running Romex, and the jacket alone is enough to protect it? If I do need conduit, what size should I put in, and what should I put on the top of the conduit where it enters the panel (insulating bushing?), and the bottom where the wire first enters the conduit? Sch 40 or 80? (I’ve never worked with conduit before, and would probably use PVC).

I ask because the SE cable that feeds our 200 amp service is secured to the underside of the joists, but when it penetrates through the floor up to the main panel in the laundry room, it’s encased in ~2” conduit.

2) My biggest question / problem is that our 200A main panel is fed from below, most of the branch circuits powered by the main panel are routed through the bottom of the panel, and there are no large knockouts available for the SER at the bottom of the panel. I know you can make your own under some circumstances, but I don’t know if that would be appropriate here, or if there is physically room for the hole and wire. I will be installing another subpanel for some basement revisions in the next few weeks, so I need to plan for routing two separate SER cables, each 1/0 - 3 conductor with ground. The top of the main panel has a lot more room for additional wires.

What size hole do I need to run either the conduit or the SER with wire clamp?

Do I need to run the SER up the empty stud bay next to the main panel, then horizontally through the stud, then come in from the top of the main panel?
Or make my own knockout at the bottom if there’s room?
Or drill through the studs and come in from the side? (not sure how big hole would have to be to accommodate wire clamp or conduit).

Sorry to be so wordy, and thanks for the help.

Bottom of panel:
P1010001-1.jpg


Top of panel:
P1010006-1.jpg
 
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mrb

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do you have room in your existing panel to be able to come in with 1/0 and make the turn into a breaker? 1/0 AL is pretty stiff. You really may want to consider 90 amp breakers and #2 AL. it will be ALOT easier to work with.
 
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snorky18

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I'm not sure how hard it will be to bend the individual conductors. I know that the SER is super stiff. I thought about buying a few feet of it just to see if I could even get it to bend and fit into the breaker properly.

Using my conservative means of wire sizing (60 deg column of 310.16) gets me only 75 amps allowed on #2 AL. Which would work for now, but might not in the future if I get a big arc welder, other stuff, etc.
 

mrb

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oops. i never use cable so i keep forgetting about the 60 deg column for nm, uf, and se.

(and youre not being conservative, youre following code)
 
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snorky18

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Without enclosing the whole run in conduit, I think I'm pretty much stuck in the 60 deg. column for my available choices of cable that are suitable to be run without conduit.

I'm not sure if I could use AC / BX / Armored cable, or if it would have to be sized in 60 or 75 degrees. I'm also not sure how big I could find it locally.
 

mrb

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and have you considered pipe and individual wire? might be an easier install.....run flex out of the panel and transition to EMT for the run under the house.
 
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snorky18

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I was mostly staying away from conduit just b/c I have never used it before, but the talk of how hard it might be to bend the 1/0 has had me looking at copper conductors and conduit or flex.

Could I use PVC conduit or would I need to use EMT?

Would the transition from flex to EMT require a junction box, or would it simply be flex with the outer aluminum jacket removed on a large section of it with some way to attach it to the EMT with proper busings/clamps or what not?

Any reason I couldn't run flex the whole way? (besides the fact that I may not be able to find it locally any bigger than #12)
 

mrb

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not sure on if you can use PVC, but you shouldnt -supporting it would be a PITA.

Transition from flex to EMT is a simple fitting, no box.

what are you talking about flex with outer aluminum jacket removed? -are you referring to MC cable?

flex i am referring to is FMC -flexible metal conduit. You run it from your panel to basement, transition to conduit, transition back to flex into the subpanel, then pull your wires through.

if youre doing it with #2 AL you only need 1-1/4" conduit.
 

Aceman

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Do I need to run the SER up the empty stud bay next to the main panel, then horizontally through the stud, then come in from the top of the main panel?

I'd probably go this route if the bottom is filled, I'd also use #2 AL SER and breaker it at 80 amps. Treat this cable just like Romex. If exposed below 8' I'd sleeve it in conduit, if it's going to be behind drywall you won't need to worry about conduit obviously. Use the 2 screw metal Romex connectors to clamp the cable, I want to say it'll be an 1.25" clamp.
 

abnorm

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PICTURES ARE UP : Check the Red/Black/White wires entering the top-O-panel thru an open knockout !......what/where are these wires for ?.....You can not run individual conductors without additional protection thru the walls........
 
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mrb

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PICTURES ARE UP : Check the Red/Black/White wires entering the top-O-panel thru an open knockout !......what/where are these wires for ?.....You can not run individual conductors without additional protection thru the walls........

looks like romex with no clamp
 
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snorky18

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I had a local supplier (who doesn't stock SER) suggest #2 VNTC (Vinyl Nylon Cable Tray) cable, 3 copper conductors with ground, for about $4/ft. He said they stock it instead of the SER b/c the jacket is a lot tougher than the SER jacket. Conductors are THHN according to http://www.distributorwire.com/blog/index.php/wire-cable-products/tray-cables/

Anyone ever heard of this stuff? Would I be able to use 75 deg chart (and go down to a #3 if they stock it)? It certainly would be a lot easier to bend than the 1/0.
 

mrb

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I had a local supplier (who doesn't stock SER) suggest #2 VNTC (Vinyl Nylon Cable Tray) cable, 3 copper conductors with ground, for about $4/ft. He said they stock it instead of the SER b/c the jacket is a lot tougher than the SER jacket. Conductors are THHN according to http://www.distributorwire.com/blog/index.php/wire-cable-products/tray-cables/

Anyone ever heard of this stuff? Would I be able to use 75 deg chart (and go down to a #3 if they stock it)? It certainly would be a lot easier to bend than the 1/0.

cant use tray cable in your application. Can only go in a cable tray, raceway, free air (ex: on a messanger cable between buildings), or direct burial.
 
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snorky18

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I took a look at the panel again this afternoon, and the two wires coming in at the top without a wire clamp are indeed romex, and I plant to install a clamp while I am working on this.

Since I am going to need to access both the top and the bottom of the panel anyway, I've pretty well decided to remove the sheet rock all the way from around the panel, and run my SER cables up the next stud bay, through the stud, and back down into the main panel from the top. I'm probably going to install the SER for both the garage subpanel and the basement subpanel while I'm in there.



At this point my biggest concerns at this point are:
1) Will I be able to bend the 1/0, and if so will it exceed code for minimum bend radius? (Is it 8x the conductor diameter?)
2) Where on earth am I going to put two separate 1/0 Neutral Wires, and two separate #2 grounds? I can buy additional Ground/Neutral Lug Kits, but they're going to be a snug fit.
 

acer66

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We’re out in the county in rural Alabama. The only permit required to build this house 5 years ago was septic. So no building inspectors, codes, etc.

Just to make sure that I understand this right,
there are areas in the US where there is no general building code,
besides like a septic tank here, in effect?
:confused:

Thank you
 
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snorky18

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Southeast Tennessee
Just to make sure that I understand this right,
there are areas in the US where there is no general building code,
besides like a septic tank here, in effect?
:confused:

Thank you

Yep, you got it. Welcome to rural Alabama :thumbup:

I'm going to presume there is a code at some level that builders should adhere to, but the reality is, there is no one to enforce it. This could help explain why homeowner's insurance is a bit higher here than when I lived in the big city.
 
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ScottG

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Cleveland, Ohio
Yep, you got it. Welcome to rural Alabama :thumbup:

I'm going to presume there is a code at some level that builders should adhere to, but the reality is, there is no one to enforce it.

Thank God there are still places in this country where the government isn't standing over your shoulder telling you how to buckle your pants.
 

walrus

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Just to make sure that I understand this right,
there are areas in the US where there is no general building code,
besides like a septic tank here, in effect?
:confused:

Thank you
Maine had no statewide building code until a few days ago when a law was passed adopting one. In rural areas you can still do what you want law or no law. There is no one to inspect it so how would you get caught. Like Alabama Septic would be about the only thing you'd have to sweat
 
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