Suggested AC Repairs/Maintenance

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Last year I picked up another 1999 Super Duty with the 7.3L with 114k miles from the original owner. I noticed right away the AC wasn't working quite right, which turned out to be a worn compressor clutch (common issue), which was causing engagement/disengagement issues. I pulled the clutch and noted it had deep wear grooves and needed replacement. Long story short, I adjusted the air gap to spec by removing a shim, put the clutch back on, and it has worked fine for the last year.

Fast forward to this week and I'm trying to catch up on some vehicle maintenance, which included getting my AC serviced. Before taking it to the shop to have the refrigerant checked, I wanted to throw a new clutch on the compressor to replace the worn one. Today I went to swap it and I was unable to get the pulley off the compressor shaft with small pry bars. I loosened the mounting hardware to tilt the compressor up slightly to get a puller on it and I hear a slight hissing.......the damn condenser hose started to leak at the hose crimp. It's 22yo, so I'm not terribly upset. I then hear a "crack" and I look down and the damn pulley some how broke free from the shaft prior to me even getting the puller on it......WTF?

At this point, I have a 22yo truck that I have an irrational love for that needs a new condenser lineset. My questions are as follows:

- Is it worth buying another compressor at this point? My old one is working fine, but I want to get another 100k out of this truck. A new Motorcraft compressor without clutch (already have a brand new one) is $200.

- The accumulator/drier is original, so I assume $80 on a new one is money well spent at this point?

- Is an OEM office tube the best bet, or is there better options for an AZ truck?

- My condesor and evap seem to be just fine. Is there any reason to replace these since my current compressor has never failed/contaminated these?

At this point the truck needs whatever level of repair/maintenance suggested, and then brought to the shop for vacuum/charging as that's out of my wheelhouse. Do I simply finish swapping the clutch and line set out, or do I do the additional work above Thoughts?

 

[Wrench97]

Yes for the compressor those vintage of compressors had failures that sent debris throughout the system and if you did not get it all cleaned out would ruin the replacement compressor. Have you priced the difference between the clutch kit and a new compressor?
You should be able to find a Denso compressor for less the $150 for that.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

My original compressor is still good, the clutch was badly worn. While replacing it, the line developed a leak. The system shouldn't be contaminated with debris at this point. Just considering a new compressor due to mileage as I'm already having to pay to have the system charged. I'd rather not have the current compressor fail and end up having to replace the entire system down the road because I wanted to save $200 now.

 

[Wrench97]

My original compressor is still good, the clutch was badly worn. While replacing it, the line developed a leak. The system shouldn't be contaminated with debris at this point. Just considering a new compressor due to mileage as I'm already having to pay to have the system charged. I'd rather not have the current compressor fail and end up having to replace the entire system down the road because I wanted to save $200 now.

Not saying it is, I trying to say if should fail in the near future they are known to do that.
If you did not already have the clutch the Denso replacement is the way to go.
The line set you need to do because of the leak, the accumulator is not a bad Idea but if you think the system has been pretty much intact since new probably still ok(We ran them past 900,000 miles on the old L series Fords and later Sterlings till we did the engine swing), the condenser and evaporator I would leave alone.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Not saying it is, I trying to say if should fail in the near future they are known to do that.
If you did not already have the clutch the Denso replacement is the way to go.
The line set you need to do because of the leak, the accumulator is not a bad Idea but if you think the system has been pretty much intact since new probably still ok(We ran them past 900,000 miles on the old L series Fords and later Sterlings till we did the engine swing), the condenser and evaporator I would leave alone.

Thanks

 

[samss]

114k miles on a Super Duty? Yep, I'd say it's worth fixing. My 01 Ram Cummins needed the AC evap replaced at about 400k. My only concern was if the dash would stay together. It did, and I replaced the entire AC system (parts from Rockauto), Now at 560k the tappet cover gasket needs replaced.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Definitely fixing it, just deciding how deep I should go with it. Like I said, I have an irrational love for the damn truck....all 230HP.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Any time an automotive system has been open, you need the accumulator/receiver dryer. It's SOP.

Tommy

 

[chris142]

Don't bother with the clutch. Replace the compressor, accumulator,orifice. Do it once and drive it another 10+ years. Replace the hose too

 

[firebirdparts]

It's 134A, and the compressor is incredibly easy to get to. I wouldn't do preventive maintenance on it. I just don't. I'm not too sure what years the "black death" practically applies, but if the truck hasn't got black death in 22 years, I figure it's not gonna.

You're certainly not saving any labor. and the value of 134A is basically zero. But that's okay either way.

I have an 02 with 200k miles on it and the compressor is doing okay on mine.

 

[bradpac]

I would keep all the original components if they are still in good working condition. Replace the exposed rubber hoses or wear items and run it. I have seen the compressors on superduty Fords go for longer mileage than you have on yours with 0 issues on the entire system.

 

[greenskeeper]

Replace the broken line, buy a vacuum pump from HF as well as gauges. Pull a vacuum and then charge with the a/c cans from your local auto store.

 

[no704]

^^ this but I see no reason not to replace the compressor while ur at it. I live in Phx and no Ac *****. Just make sure you get the oil level correct. Most new compressors will come with oil in them. “MOST”. Double check this. If not add to the dryer before assembly. Add the exact amount of 134 suggested.
A vacuum pump is a must, a set of gauges makes it easier. Pull a vacuum for 1 hour then close the system and watch the gauges for leaks. After 1/2 hour put in the Freon. Good to go!

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Replace the broken line, buy a vacuum pump from HF as well as gauges. Pull a vacuum and then charge with the a/c cans from your local auto store.

Pull a vacuum for 1 hour then close the system and watch the gauges for leaks. After 1/2 hour put in the Freon. Good to go!

X2, but don't pull the vacuum until AFTER you pressure leak check with dry nitrogen. I've said it a whole lot of times, a vacuum can't be used for leak checking, especially an MVAC systems with O-rings.

Tommy

 

[Wrench97]

X2, but don't pull the vacuum until AFTER you pressure leak check with dry nitrogen. I've said it a whole lot of times, a vacuum can't be used for leak checking, especially an MVAC systems with O-rings.

Tommy

I know what you're saying but the new R1234YF machines do the vacuum check automatically and will not let you do a full charge if the vacuum test fails, even though it's usually the compressor shaft seal being sucked open instead of internal pressure pushing it to seal on the shaft that is the cause.........................................I foresee a lot of old school charging in my future.