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Suggestion for extremely small wrench or socket

streetglider

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May 17, 2014
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Painesville, Ohio area
I am attempting to adjust the valves on the front cylinder of an ATV. There is very little space to work in and I have removed everything I can to get to them.

The rear cylinder was not a problem. I was able to loosen the locknuts and turn all of the adjusting screws by hand.

The front cylinder is completely different. I loosen the locknuts but cannot turn the adjusting screws with my fingers, very tight, no room and not enough grip. I cannot get a small set of pliers in there to loosen them either. Kawasaki sells a valve adjusting screw holder tool but it clearly is too big to fit anywhere near these exhaust valves. There is no slot for a small screwdriver on the end as I have seen on other valves. The square end of the adjusting screw appears to be about 3MM in size. Any suggestions are appreciated. I try to learn how to do these things myself but don't have a lot of experience. TIA
 
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streetglider

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Painesville, Ohio area
Here are a few pictures. There is about a 3 inch space between the exhaust valve cover and the power steering pump actuator on the steering shaft. I have removed everything that I can at this time but that is all the space I have. The valve adjusting screw is very small. The smallest wrench I have is 13/64 which is too big (about 5 MM?). I am thinking the end of the screw may be as small as 2MM.

It is a 2012 Brute Force 750. I didn't buy it from the local dealer so he refuses to touch it and it is doubtful he would be willing to help. I will call Kawasaki after the holiday and see if they will give me some advice. I am not very confident that I would have the ability (knowledge) to turn the engine but I do have the service manual.

I researched the valve adjustment for about two weeks and watched every available video I could find. Ironically, in every video they only showed how to adjust the valves on the rear cylinder or the engine was on a bench.

I may pick up that Mini ratchet and Microbit set.

Thank you all for the suggestions.
 

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firebirdparts

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In my old school world, tiny wrenches were called 'ignition wrenches' for whatever reason, and I have a set, and there's plenty of room for them to work in the space pictured. Ample room. However, mine are all english. They'd probably still work though.

[edit] I have to admit I don't know if I have one that small. Maybe not.
 
Last edited:

larry_g

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oregon
Slot the end of a short piece of rod to fit the square on the end of the adjuster screw. It would look like the slot in a straight screw head. If you can't turn it with the straight rod then put a bend in the rod so it looks like a hex key. You may even find a screw with a slot of the correct width to fit and use that with a nut fixed onto the threaded part.

lg
no neat sig line
 

kelpaso1

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New Brunswick
Here are a few pictures. There is about a 3 inch space between the exhaust valve cover and the power steering pump actuator on the steering shaft. I have removed everything that I can at this time but that is all the space I have. The valve adjusting screw is very small. The smallest wrench I have is 13/64 which is too big (about 5 MM?). I am thinking the end of the screw may be as small as 2MM.

It is a 2012 Brute Force 750. I didn't buy it from the local dealer so he refuses to touch it and it is doubtful he would be willing to help. I will call Kawasaki after the holiday and see if they will give me some advice. I am not very confident that I would have the ability (knowledge) to turn the engine but I do have the service manual.

I researched the valve adjustment for about two weeks and watched every available video I could find. Ironically, in every video they only showed how to adjust the valves on the rear cylinder or the engine was on a bench.

I may pick up that Mini ratchet and Microbit set.

Thank you all for the suggestions.
LOL great customer service from a dealer, Its not like you are asking them to do it for free. I would be talking to the head office of KAWI and let them know how your local dealer operates. Just plain bad customer service IMO.
 

firebirdparts

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I have heard of people making square socket tools out of tubing too, if you had something square to shape with. Typically that's the handle end of a file, I guess.
 

kelpaso1

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You guys ever work on ATVs?
Unbolting and remounting the engine is probably an all day job for ten minutes of work with the right tool.
Really! Some valve adjustments are just harder to do but it is possible without unbolting the engine and turning it sideways.
 
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streetglider

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Painesville, Ohio area
I am pretty sure it is at the correct stroke/position. I watched the intake valves go down and come back up, then went about a half turn to see the " T F " mark in the timing inspection hole. Also, I was able to slightly move both the intake and exhaust valves. The mention of a hose here reminded me of a trick someone told me to get spark plugs out of an inboard boat motor. I am going to try and find some very small id hose and cut a piece to put on the end of the adjusting screw with the lock nuts backed way off. Maybe I can turn them that way.
 
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PoorUB

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I had a Yamaha R1 sport bike. I needed to reshim a few valves on it. It is quite a job anyway, remove the fuel tank, radiator and related parts. In that case I fumbled around a while, then pulled the muffler, leaving the head pipe on and pulled all the engine mount bolts but the lower rear one and lowered the front of the engine down. On that engine you had to pull the cams to replace shims. Leaving the rear mount bolt in place allowed me to jack it back in place by myself and not have to lift the whole engine and install bolts at the same time.

I have no clue how they would do it in a shop, I suspect the same way, unless the mechanic was also a trained gynecologist!.
 
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streetglider

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Well, this is how I finally solved my dilemma. Taking a break overnight and discussing it here gave me a chance to try again. I checked for TDC to make sure it was on the compression stroke just in case that was holding the screws so tight. It was okay. When I backed off the lock nut it was only leaving me an extremely small area (the small square on the end) so nothing I could get enough of a grip on to turn it. That, including the fact I could barely get my hand anywhere in there added to the problem. I decided to take the lock nuts completely off, one at a time. With the nut off, I was able get my hand in there enough to break loose the adjusting screw with my fingers as I had more to hold on to. I backed the screw out, slid the feeler gauge under it and then tightened it on the gauge using only my fingers as tight as I could.
I put the lock nut back and carefully tightened it back down. The screw didn't move and I could feel the gauge had some slight drag on it and took it out. I did the other exhaust valve the same way. It took quite a while and my hand and wrists took a beating but it's done.

This form is a great asset for guys like me. Thank all of you for your help.
 

KnurledNut

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If it wasnt super tight, its possible a bent fork would have worked. The tines are fairly close to 3mm apart and could be bent to fit tightly.
 

kimbob

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Mar 1, 2011
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1
Well, this is how I finally solved my dilemma. Taking a break overnight and discussing it here gave me a chance to try again. I checked for TDC to make sure it was on the compression stroke just in case that was holding the screws so tight. It was okay. When I backed off the lock nut it was only leaving me an extremely small area (the small square on the end) so nothing I could get enough of a grip on to turn it. That, including the fact I could barely get my hand anywhere in there added to the problem. I decided to take the lock nuts completely off, one at a time. With the nut off, I was able get my hand in there enough to break loose the adjusting screw with my fingers as I had more to hold on to. I backed the screw out, slid the feeler gauge under it and then tightened it on the gauge using only my fingers as tight as I could.
I put the lock nut back and carefully tightened it back down. The screw didn't move and I could feel the gauge had some slight drag on it and took it out. I did the other exhaust valve the same way. It took quite a while and my hand and wrists took a beating but it's done.

This form is a great asset for guys like me. Thank all of you for your help.
 

M6erfan

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You guys ever work on ATVs?
Unbolting and remounting the engine is probably an all day job for ten minutes of work with the right tool.
Really! Some valve adjustments are just harder to do but it is possible without unbolting the engine and turning it sideways.

I'm sure the OP would be grateful for either of you to explain what that mystery "right tool", or correct procedure is.
 

cherrybomb

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I don't own a ATV,but here is another case where if you have a question come here and ask it.There are no dumb questions.There is an excellent chance somebody will help solve the problem.If you plan on keeping this,buy the best tools you can afford.The dealer should of helped you more,he must not be worried about reputation or future sales.Just sayin.
 

CGarage

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Call the ATV / engine manufacturer and ask them how they do it. They will have tech support line. Ask to speak to someone competent. Or call a large dealer and ask for the shop and get their advice. Don’t go in without advance knowledge.


How many posts for something that could likely be answered simply by just a phone call to the tech department for advice? The manufacturer of this ATV I am sure has needed to do this before. Ask the source.
 

CGarage

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LOL great customer service from a dealer, Its not like you are asking them to do it for free. I would be talking to the head office of KAWI and let them know how your local dealer operates. Just plain bad customer service IMO.

You need to let the manufacturer know that the dealer is representing them poorly.

Don’t give me the “time is money BS argument” and “I do not have time to tell on the dealer” line. If you have time to solve the problem because they are inept and you have to research it, the head manufacturer needs to know about it.

Holding dealers and manufacturers representatives accountable needs to happen far more.

If positions were reversed and you were the manufacturer, and had a dealer that was representing you poorly, as a smart business person you would want to know about it I can assure you.
 

mike93lx

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How many posts for something that could likely be answered simply by just a phone call to the tech department for advice? The manufacturer of this ATV I am sure has needed to do this before. Ask the source.
believe it or not, but some people post here after regular business hours and most people here have day jobs. on top of that, most manufacturers don't have a way to get someone that can actually help on the phone. plus wait times can be quite long

posting here is a completely reasonable alternative to calling.
 

39 LaSalle

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TN
In my old school world, tiny wrenches were called 'ignition wrenches' for whatever reason, and I have a set, and there's plenty of room for them to work in the space pictured. Ample room. However, mine are all english. They'd probably still work though.

[edit] I have to admit I don't know if I have one that small. Maybe not.
Because back in the pre-fuel injection days, you adjusted ignition timing in a car's distributor. Those distributors have some pretty small nuts in there with very little working room for adjusting points and/or replacing condensers. Thus "ignition wrench".
 

PoorUB

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How many posts for something that could likely be answered simply by just a phone call to the tech department for advice? The manufacturer of this ATV I am sure has needed to do this before. Ask the source.
Most of these tech departments are for dealer support. They generally do not support the consumer with anything more than, "Take it to the dealer!"
 
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streetglider

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Painesville, Ohio area
The Kawasaki website does direct you to call your dealer if you have a tech question. I bought the ATV from an eBay dealer. When I called the dealer near me, he could not have been ruder and told me he would only work on vehicles bought at his dealership. I haven't called him since and never buy any parts from him.
 

mnmarlin

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Excellent advice to walk away for awhile, overnight if possible. Give it fresh go the next day, often it turns out to be doable with a fresh mind and body. Done it many times myself, and I've adjusted the valves on my Yamaha Grizzly 660 a few times and I understand your frustration, the Yamaha 660 has 5 valves, 3 intake 2 exhaust with the same style adjusment you have. I use a small vise grips to hold the tip of the adjuster while I break the locknut loose.
 

CGarage

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Most of these tech departments are for dealer support. They generally do not support the consumer with anything more than, "Take it to the dealer!"


Agree. In his case, the dealer is rude and incompetent. I would report this to the manufacturer and then proceed to explain that this is the reason for asking for help.
 

CGarage

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The Kawasaki website does direct you to call your dealer if you have a tech question. I bought the ATV from an eBay dealer. When I called the dealer near me, he could not have been ruder and told me he would only work on vehicles bought at his dealership. I haven't called him since and never buy any parts from him.


I buy stuff all over the world and a lot of it requires tech support. It is rare to find an independent dealer / agency that is remotely as competent as the manufacturer. 95% of the time, I demand direct support from the manufacturer because far too little support and training is given to their dealers / agencies / distribution partners, etc
 
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